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    Thread: Tear down

    1. Member
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      03-20-2017 04:16 PM #26
      You got lucky if you were able to cut all the sealant with a putty knife. I've had cars with so much sealant I couldn't easily get at the bolts on the a-pillar even knowing where they were.

      Another problem is sometimes there's so much sealant under the front lip of the fender that you can't reach it all (I've seen it an inch thick), and forcing the fender at all will bend it. In that case I could only think of one thing and it worked:

      Torch the sealant until it lights on fire and wait for it to burn up . After the fender was off, abundant cleanup to remove the evidence...

      You can choose to leave the fender if you live in Arizona and/or you're confident you have a rust free mk1.
      Work: it works, ibtches.

    2. Member sciroccohal's Avatar
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      03-20-2017 05:25 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      surgical precision.
      Getting the fenders free is like 1/2 hour to 45mins each.....What do you charge by the hour? (Doc Chassin)...of course you DO! LOL. ME, I'm lazy! lol

      The trick is to take out all the bolts.....then with a massive Milwaukee Heat Gun warm up the A pillar lower...really warm and free that first, then do the same with the 'eyebrow' area over the turn signal light and the lower 'chin'....get it nice and warm so's you have to use gloves.

      Should pop off.

      It the mastic that's a pain!
      The feeling of immortality extends right up until the moment of impact.
      I cannot teach you how to be a Zen mechanic, grasshopper.
      The VW Scirocco, the worlds fastest ECONOMY car.
      I drive a 36 year old YORK with a Scirocco attached.

    3. 03-20-2017 06:38 PM #28
      I like a 1500-watt heat gun and putty knives to soften up and remove seam sealer.
      You can try cutting through it cold, but it's unnecessary hard labor.

      I used to torch it but it creates a lot of black smoke and nasty fumes that I don't think are all that healthy to be breathing.
      Not to mention the potential fire hazard and metal warpage if things get carried away.

      Some doctors may advise differently
      Last edited by DiezNutz; 03-20-2017 at 06:42 PM.
      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    4. Member
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      03-20-2017 08:11 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by echassin View Post
      You got lucky if you were able to cut all the sealant with a putty knife. I've had cars with so much sealant I couldn't easily get at the bolts on the a-pillar even knowing where they were.

      Another problem is sometimes there's so much sealant under the front lip of the fender that you can't reach it all (I've seen it an inch thick), and forcing the fender at all will bend it. In that case I could only think of one thing and it worked:

      Torch the sealant until it lights on fire and wait for it to burn up . After the fender was off, abundant cleanup to remove the evidence.....

      ^^ This. I got all the bolts out and there was so much sealant I was afraid of causing more damage removing the fender than the rust that was already there. I didn't try a torch though.

    5. Junior Member PtboScirocco's Avatar
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      03-20-2017 09:54 PM #30
      Saw a show on youtube that used dry ice to remove it. Speed Academy I believe. Worked like a charm, came off in huge frozen chunks.

    6. Member
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      03-20-2017 10:24 PM #31
      Thank God since it was a Florida car all its life it seems that there is very little rust and removing the fenders is not going to be required. Should have some stripped down shots later in the week. Still holding onto Cincy with a Scirocco not a Mini Cooper although it is a blast to drive.

    7. Member scotttu's Avatar
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      03-25-2017 09:43 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Thank God since it was a Florida car all its life it seems that there is very little rust and removing the fenders is not going to be required. Should have some stripped down shots later in the week. Still holding onto Cincy with a Scirocco not a Mini Cooper although it is a blast to drive.
      You could loosen the bottom bolt behind the wheel, maybe pillar bolts, run a mirror up inside to see if there is any rust.
      This was the worst of the worst, save for the hatch area on my car.

      If one's words are not better than silence, one should keep silent.
      - Kwai Chang Caine

    8. Member
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      03-25-2017 09:06 PM #33
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have. My mechanic friend is recommending I look for a donor beetle as these are easy swaps. If anyone who has done this could comment on whether it went well and how much difference in power it made it would certainly help me decide

    9. 03-25-2017 11:11 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have. My mechanic friend is recommending I look for a donor beetle as these are easy swaps. If anyone who has done this could comment on whether it went well and how much difference in power it made it would certainly help me decide
      I really should have bet money that you wouldn't be done by Cincy. [Assuming I could find any takers, that is. ]

      I guess like most things, 'easy' is relative depending on one's capabilities and available resources.
      I would hardly call a 1.8T a "bolt-in", although there are more enterprising solutions available now than there used to be - look up our friend Tech53.

      Vortex abounds with 1.8T -> Mk1 swap threads, so I'll be the first to wipe the crust out of your eyes, stick a lollipop in your hand, and briskly broom you in the general direction of the Search feature.

      no one cares what you think in real life...
      how do you figure the internet makes it any better.

    10. Member ydrogs's Avatar
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      Yesterday 03:52 PM #35
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail

      I have not seen or used their products so I have no first hand info about them though.
      Gordy S

    11. Member fredybender's Avatar
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      Yesterday 09:49 PM #36
      Alan at S&P is a really nice guy, he also stocks our swap mounts now.
      Either us , or them, can give you a drop in / bolt on solution.
      Early W/C NLA and performance parts: www.tech-53.com

    12. Member Eistreiber's Avatar
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      Yesterday 10:59 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      I would hardly call a 1.8T a "bolt-in"...
      WRONG. Of course it's a "bolt-in", that's the whole point. Same basic block, mounts, and mounting points; ergo ipso facto "bolt-in".

      Then again, it might be nice if that lovely engine ran, which is a different deal...

      Quote Originally Posted by DiezNutz View Post
      Vortex abounds with 1.8T -> Mk1 swap threads, so I'll be the first to wipe the crust out of your eyes, stick a lollipop in your hand, and briskly broom you in the general direction of the Search feature.
      So... for designated V-tex curmudgeon(s), there's been me and Hal, a bunch of also-rans, and now you.


      @OP; yep it'll fit. But you really really want to research first. The swap isn't as simple as just bolting in a drive-train, and the associated and necessary upgrades to brakes, drive line, suspension and so on will cost as much or more than the the mere engine swap by itself; and if you swap without upgrading the car to support it, that's just criminal. Not to be rude, but are you qualified to drive that much power-to-weight ration on a public road? If you've done some Auto-X or SCCA stuff, cool. But a Public road is NOT a race track, right?

      A decent 8v Scir in good repair is "fun". Why don't you try starting with that, then see if you really want to gain (much) more power? By then you'll know more of what else needs doing along the way.

      If you want the quickest way to the fastest ride, strap a JATO rocket under a little red wagon, get in and have a 'friend' light it. That's a good candidate for the 2017 Triple-crown; Darwin Award, public art for the splot you leave on whatever stops you, and Most YouTube Hits for an Entertaining Fail.

      More power is tempting, I know... but first learn the car as it is. It's better than you think, maybe.
      "By Endurance We Conquer" - Family motto of Sir Ernest Shackleton

    13. Member Eistreiber's Avatar
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      Yesterday 11:15 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by ydrogs View Post
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail.
      That ^. Let's review, and note the bolded:

      Quote Originally Posted by ydrogs View Post
      Also these guys http://s-pautomotive.com/?product=wi...rness-services provide plug and play wiring harnesses to quicken the swap which is what I have seen is the hardest part and where most swaps fail.
      So... that looks like a good direction to go in, first check into what it'll take to turn a 1.8t from boat anchor enclosed in German sheet metal to running powerplant. That engine needs various electronic carpola to run; slap in a points- distributor and change the T-belt isn't gonna do it.

      Then all the other ripple effects need to be considered and addressed.

      But [ OP ] if you really want to do the 1.8t swap, the engine management is where to start. Figure that out first so you have at least an inkling of what you're getting yourself into.

      G/L.
      "By Endurance We Conquer" - Family motto of Sir Ernest Shackleton

    14. Member onurB's Avatar
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      Today 12:03 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Brixy View Post
      Looking for some advice on whether I should clean up my original engine while out of the car or upgrade to a 1.8T while I am at it. This car when I got it 3 years ago already had a replacement 1.8 out of a 92 Jetta. Would love more power in the Scirocco as it seems they had more power in my memories of my first one back in the mid 80's than they really have.
      In your memories, how many cars had a 175ish Hp 4 cyl. back then? None.
      That's usual nowadays.

      Sciroccos could have been fast, in your 80's eyes.
      -Bruno -->Mine
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