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    Thread: I needed an E36 so I acquired a darling (flaming pile or potential v3.11)

    1. 06-16-2017 12:28 PM #126
      Busy morning. Showed up at the DMV 45 minutes before they opened this morning and was 4th in line. By 7am opening time, 50+ people were in line. Got temp plates for 60 days. Drove home, threw on tags, and took the M3 for an emissions test and VIN verification. Test passed and off to work. 3 hours has got to be my personal best for registration and emissions. Will have to return for permanent plates.

      New problems discovered...airbag light is dim but on. Probably has something to do with the vaders being swapped and an occupancy sensor. Also found the passenger vader seat recline motor not moving. May be the little white gear inside that commonly strips. Lastly, windshield washer pump is no good. Sounds like I have some tinkering to do this weekend.

      Otherwise, drives really good. Handles great, need to get the alignment checked out, but otherwise I am looking into a couple track days out at High Plains Raceway a little east of Denver.

    2. 06-16-2017 05:52 PM #127
      And the RTAB's are squeaky...poly needs lube

    3. 06-17-2017 06:42 PM #128
      Today is more of a flaming pile day. Shifter pops out of the white plastic bushing that is supposed to retain it. Thought I had really broken something when the shifter just started flopping around, but after pushing it back down into the socket everything lined back up and I was able to change gears again.

      Looked into the passenger seat recline issue. Motor spins, seat stays put. New gears ordered. Hope that is the fix.

      Also found out there are at least two different kinds of e36 windshield washer pumps...the electrical connectors apparently vary on a positive note, my pump was fine, just clogged with some shmoo at the pickup.

      The rear trailing arm bushings were greased externally but not between the bushing shaft and the bracket...noise eliminated with lubrication.

      It seems the ignition barrel/tumbler needs some help. When the steering wheel is locked, the tumbler spins freely. Some exploratory disassembly will be required.

      Lastly, there is a lien on the title that showed up when I got temporary registration...now I need a copy of the lien release paperwork which should be easy enough except the seller is not returning my text messages or emails, and hs voicemail box is full. Fan Effing Tastic.

      So...TLDR;

      Need to rebuild shifter.
      Need to rebuild ignition switch.
      Need to see if RTABs stay quiet.
      Need to rebuild power seat transmission.
      Need an alignment.
      Need a Lawyer?
      Last edited by jaystone; 06-17-2017 at 06:44 PM.

    4. 06-17-2017 08:27 PM #129
      Well, since I like responding to my own thread. To quote James May, "Good News!" The original owner responded. Seems to be having a whole mess of personal troubles at the moment, and was less than cordial in his responses to me. I will leave it at that.

      I however did luck out on my second call to Navy Federal and after explaining the nature of my call, it appears I may be in luck. They are processing my request for a copy of the Lien Release necessary to complete registration of the vehicle. Will know when I have it in my hands.

      Note to self, read the fine print on titles, especially from another state.

    5. Member
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      06-17-2017 10:03 PM #130
      Do some reading on the spinning lock cylinder.
      IIRC it is a safety feature. Maybe clutch needs to be fully depressed?

    6. 06-17-2017 10:28 PM #131
      Quote Originally Posted by PoorHouse View Post
      Do some reading on the spinning lock cylinder.
      IIRC it is a safety feature. Maybe clutch needs to be fully depressed?
      I will look into it a little more. All I came across indicated the barrel may be broken. Hopefully find out what is broken (if anything) tomorrow.

      Regarding alignments, what has been anybody's experience with getting non factory specs done? Any luck with ordinary alignment joints or should I just take it to a higher end performance/race shop?

    7. Member
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      06-17-2017 10:44 PM #132
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      I will look into it a little more. All I came across indicated the barrel may be broken. Hopefully find out what is broken (if anything) tomorrow.

      Regarding alignments, what has been anybody's experience with getting non factory specs done? Any luck with ordinary alignment joints or should I just take it to a higher end performance/race shop?



      My M3 did this right after I got it. Not a safety feature. Followed this advice and it hasn't done it again.

      M3 Forum:

      Quote Originally Posted by zhp43867 View Post
      Really no need to replace it. Make sure you shove the key all the way in and it won't spin. My car has had this issue since I bought it. I initially thought of it as a problem and had it on the list to replace, but changed my behavior slightly and decided it's not worth messing with.

    8. Senior Member danny_16v's Avatar
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      06-17-2017 11:51 PM #133
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      And the RTAB's are squeaky...poly needs lube
      I've had poly RTAB for 8 years and I never once greased them. Even when new. I don't hear a squeak, unless I'm used to it.
      GLi : M3 : CX5
      OSD#2

    9. 06-18-2017 08:45 AM #134
      Quote Originally Posted by danny_16v View Post
      I've had poly RTAB for 8 years and I never once greased them. Even when new. I don't hear a squeak, unless I'm used to it.
      The noise I was hearing seemed to be related to the friction between the trailing arm and the bracket, where it is pinched with the nut/bolt. Probably need to check torque value there, gudentight may not be the answer

    10. 06-18-2017 08:47 AM #135
      Quote Originally Posted by PoorHouse View Post
      My M3 did this right after I got it. Not a safety feature. Followed this advice and it hasn't done it again.

      M3 Forum:
      Mine does it when the steering wheel is locked, and resting on the lock tab. Once the steering wheel is turned away from the lock tab, the key turns correctly, not spinning freely.

      Forgot to mention the volume knob seems to not operate the radio anymore. Worked fine after I fixed the display issue, now it is on the fritz.
      Last edited by jaystone; 06-18-2017 at 08:52 AM.

    11. Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      06-18-2017 04:36 PM #136
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      The noise I was hearing seemed to be related to the friction between the trailing arm and the bracket, where it is pinched with the nut/bolt. Probably need to check torque value there, gudentight may not be the answer
      Do you have poly rear sway bar bushings? Could be it - my WRX had poly sway bar bushings and the noise when they needed greasing (which was frequently ) was maddening.

      I, too, have poly RTABs and I don't hear a thing. My rear sway bar bushings are stock rubber.

    12. 06-18-2017 05:25 PM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by Stevo12 View Post
      Do you have poly rear sway bar bushings? Could be it - my WRX had poly sway bar bushings and the noise when they needed greasing (which was frequently ) was maddening.

      I, too, have poly RTABs and I don't hear a thing. My rear sway bar bushings are stock rubber.
      I will have to dig deeper. Saw poly diff mounts and all that jazz, but dont remember what the sway bar bushings were.

      Fixed the volume knob on the radio. Took it apart and inspected the solder joints, all looked good. Sprayed contact cleaner into the potentiometer and spun it vigorously in the hopes it just had some shmoo in there wreaking havoc. Reassembled and crossed my fingers. At this moment it works perfectly. Now I just need to replace all the blown speakers.

      Also got the trunk trim all buttoned up, along with a battery tie down strap for the optima. Bent some 1/8" aluminum strip into a bracket and screwed it down with the factory bolts. Wrapped the top of the bracket with splicing tape (think thicker heavy duty electrical tape) and some gaffers tape for looks. After tying the battery down, I was able to get the factory battery cover to latch securely. I had a concern the optima was too tall, but it appears to have been user error. I am also a bit bummed the trunk floor carpet shrunk on me after pressure washing it and drying it in the sun, the edges don't quite reach where they used to.

      Regarding the spinning ignition key. It will spin both directions freely if inserted 95% of the way into the tumbler, regardless if the steering wheel is locked or not. When the steering wheel is locked, it will also spin freely both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise) when the key is inserted almost all the way. It will also spin freely counterclockwise when the steering wheel is locked AND the key is inserted fully. I decided to wait until the parts arrive before exploratory surgery and hopefully I can get some feedback on what other e36 owners can duplicate.




    13. 06-18-2017 06:12 PM #138
      Had to return a couple things to my FLAPS...friendly local auto parts store. Took the M3. Funny how a short little drive can make all the headache worthwhile.

    14. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-18-2017 11:13 PM #139
      Nice! I really like that you dug into the stereo and apparently got that sorted. That's a place many fear to tread.

      When I had urethane bushings I always wanted to put a groove on the inside and a grease fitting/corresponding hole that led to the groove so that I could just get a tube of white lithium grease and hit it with the grease gun when it got noisy. I never got around to it, but I think it would've worked pretty well.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

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      06-19-2017 07:51 AM #140
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Nice! I really like that you dug into the stereo and apparently got that sorted. That's a place many fear to tread.

      When I had urethane bushings I always wanted to put a groove on the inside and a grease fitting/corresponding hole that led to the groove so that I could just get a tube of white lithium grease and hit it with the grease gun when it got noisy. I never got around to it, but I think it would've worked pretty well.
      I had that same thought. I saw thread over in the a1 forum where a guy did just that on the front control arm bushings. That squeak can damn near ruin a nice drive.

    16. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      06-19-2017 08:33 AM #141
      Just read through the whole thread this morning. Fantastic work sir!
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    17. 06-19-2017 11:06 AM #142
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Nice! I really like that you dug into the stereo and apparently got that sorted. That's a place many fear to tread.

      When I had urethane bushings I always wanted to put a groove on the inside and a grease fitting/corresponding hole that led to the groove so that I could just get a tube of white lithium grease and hit it with the grease gun when it got noisy. I never got around to it, but I think it would've worked pretty well.
      That sounds like a brilliant idea. Will give it a go. After upgrading the swaybars on my 4runner, I had to get swaybar brackets with zirk fittings because no matter how much I tried, the ones that came with the swaybar were just too damned dry and would squeak after a couple hundred miles, no matter how much I greased them.

    18. 06-21-2017 06:34 PM #143
      Splurged...got a complete shifter rebuild kit from ECS, and the full speaker set from Bavsaound. Crossing my fingers that nothing else super pricey pops up soon, my car budget is tapped out for the month (or two )

    19. Member LaFerrari's Avatar
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      06-21-2017 07:18 PM #144
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Splurged...got a complete shifter rebuild kit from ECS, and the full speaker set from Bavsaound. Crossing my fingers that nothing else super pricey pops up soon, my car budget is tapped out for the month (or two )
      I'm interested to hear (no pun intended ) your impression of the bavsound upgrade once you install the speakers. I've been toying around with the idea of getting them myself but I drive my car so infrequently I just can't get motivated to buy the setup...unless you tell me it's worth the effort.

    20. Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      06-21-2017 07:27 PM #145
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Splurged...got a complete shifter rebuild kit from ECS, and the full speaker set from Bavsaound. Crossing my fingers that nothing else super pricey pops up soon, my car budget is tapped out for the month (or two )
      I know what you mean. I was pretty tapped out after the head gasket repair, got a few months out of that, then I needed brakes and front hubs.

      At this point, I'm not terribly concerned if something pricey goes again. Because chances are I've already bought it through FCP Euro, and I can just return it for another one

    21. 06-21-2017 08:57 PM #146
      Quote Originally Posted by LaFerrari View Post
      I'm interested to hear (no pun intended ) your impression of the bavsound upgrade once you install the speakers. I've been toying around with the idea of getting them myself but I drive my car so infrequently I just can't get motivated to buy the setup...unless you tell me it's worth the effort.
      I see you are in Colorado, if you want to give them a listen after installation and are anywhere near the Denver area, you are more than welcome.

    22. 06-21-2017 08:59 PM #147
      Quote Originally Posted by Stevo12 View Post
      I know what you mean. I was pretty tapped out after the head gasket repair, got a few months out of that, then I needed brakes and front hubs.

      At this point, I'm not terribly concerned if something pricey goes again. Because chances are I've already bought it through FCP Euro, and I can just return it for another one
      Need to followup on how the brakes you got do around town, and how they perform in more spirited situations!

    23. Member Stevo12's Avatar
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      06-21-2017 09:05 PM #148
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      Need to followup on how the brakes you got do around town, and how they perform in more spirited situations!
      Around town, they're loud. The easier you are on the brakes, the louder they get. They still stop the car in all situations one might encounter around town.

      Spirited driving, they quiet down. Not totally silent, but much improved. Initial bite is good, as is pedal modulation. My ABS is not functional, but with these pads I can modulate the brakes fairly well.

      Autocross, or track...no clue. Haven't done either. Most of the criticism I saw centered around their track performance. Seeing as my track time is going to be limited this year, I'm not as concerned. The alternative would have been to spend $600 on pads. Wasn't willing to go that far yet.

    24. Member LaFerrari's Avatar
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      06-21-2017 10:28 PM #149
      Quote Originally Posted by jaystone View Post
      I see you are in Colorado, if you want to give them a listen after installation and are anywhere near the Denver area, you are more than welcome.
      I live downtown so I might take you up on the offer, thanks.

    25. 06-22-2017 08:39 PM #150
      Bavsound stuff arrived today. Only had time to take apart one door panel, but I think I found the problem with my speakers

      Notice anything missing? This is the problem with cars that spend their time in the west. Rust may not be a problem, but dried out shriveled up fragile broken brittle UV damaged plastic, paper, leather, rubber, and the like.

      Overall, a nicely assembled kit, hope it sounds as good as it looks. Some assembly required





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