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    Thread: DIY - Removing rear door parts (door panel, door unlock handle and rusty triangle window insert)

    1. 07-31-2003 02:05 PM #1
      I had some free time and all the necessary pics, so I put this little DIY together. Hope it's useful to someone.


      STEPS FOR REMOVING REAR DOOR PANELS, DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY AND TRIANGULAR INSERT ON QUARTER WINDOW DIVIDER

      The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta (some steps may also apply to a MKIV Golf/GTI as well). The procedure was based on a 99.5 Jetta GLS VR6 with power windows - it will be slightly different on models with manual windows. Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly.

      - To remove the rear door panel, follow steps 1 through 14.
      - To remove the rear door unlock handle, follow steps 1 through 16.
      - To remove the triangular insert on the quarter window divider, follow steps 1 through 14 and then steps 17 through 24.


      __________________________________________________ __________________

      REAR DOOR PANEL

      1. Lower the rear window all the way and open the rear door.

      2. Begin by prying off the outer handle piece, as shown below. To do this, insert a screwdriver or other strong, thin tool into the crack between the inner and outer pieces at one end and carefully spread them apart. Be careful not to harm the soft-touch coating on the handle pieces - you may want to protect the tool with a thin rag. Although a screwdriver is shown in the picture, I actually prefer a tool with a wider blade, such as a putty or spackling knife - it has always been easier for me to get the handles off with one of these.

      3. Once one end of the outer handle piece is pried off slightly, move to the other end and pry that out slightly, as shown below. Go back and forth between ends until the handle has been pried out approx. 1/8". Once it is this far out, you should be able to pull it off the rest of the way with your hands.

      4. The picture below illustrates how the outer handle piece is connected to the inner handle piece by two posts (yellow arrows) and 3 clips (red arrows). Now you know why it is so hard to get off.

      5. The picture below shows the inner handle piece still attached to the door panel. The handle piece is attached to the door panel with three medium Phillips screws (red arrows) and the door panel is secured to the door with 2 large Phillips screws (yellow arrows). If you want to remove the inner handle piece from the door panel, remove all five screws. If you are just taking the door panel off, only remove the two large screws indicated by the yellow arrows.

      6. Remove the two T20 Torx screws at the bottom of the door.

      7. Starting at the bottom of the door, pull the door panel away from the door, as shown below. There are five snaps securing the panel to the door, two near the front edge of the panel and three near the rear edge of the panel. The approximate location of the two lowermost snaps on the rear edge are indicated by the red spots. After unsnapping the five snaps, the door panel should still be attached to the top of the door near the bottom of the window.

      8. The picture below of the inside of the door panel shows the location of the five snaps. (This picture is for reference only and was taken later in the DIY. The door panel should not be off yet).

      9. Starting with the top, rear corner, pull the door panel up and out of the window seal, as shown below.

      10. Do the same with the top, front corner of the door panel, as shown below. The door panel should now be disconnected from the door except for the electrical and door lock cable connections in between the panel and the door. You can rest the door panel back into the window seal if you want to take a break or reach for a tool.

      11. Next you need to disconnect the door lock cable from the door unlock handle. This is by far the most difficult step of the DIY. I find it easiest to do if you stand on the inside of the door with the door panel in front of you and stick your head through the open window to get a better view. To remove the lock cable, you need to pull out on front edge of the cable retaining clip (red area in picture below) and then slide the clip toward the rear of the car (away from the unlock handle assembly).

      12. Once the clip is unhooked, remove the cable from the groove in the unlock handle assembly and then detach the hook from the unlock handle, as shown below.

      13. The picture below is a side view of the cable retaining clip to help illustrate how to detach it. You need to pull outwards on the front of the clip (1) to clear the tabs and then slide it to the rear (2).

      14. After the lock cable is disconnected from the unlock handle, unclip the electrical connections for the window switch and the speakers. You should now be able to remove the door panel from the car.


      DOOR UNLOCK HANDLE ASSEMBLY

      15. The door unlock handle assembly is secured to the inside of the door panel with four clips (yellow arrows) and 1 small Phillips screw (red arrow), as shown below. To remove the assembly, remove the screw, undo the four clips and push out on the front edge of the assembly (by the tweeter).

      16. Once the front edge of the handle assembly is pushed out (1), slide the assembly toward the front of the car to remove (2).


      TRIANGULAR INSERT ON QUARTER WINDOW DIVIDER

      17. The triangular inserts on the rear quarter window divider commonly rust, as shown in the pictures below. It is very easy to replace these pieces once the door panels are off. They are also very cheap. The driver's side insert is part# 1J4-839-415-A-03C and the passenger's side insert is part# 1J4-839-416-A-03C. The cheapest I could find them for was $7.46 each at http://www.1stvwparts.com.

      18. To remove the inserts, begin by removing the rubber grommet on the door just below the insert and then removing the 10mm bolt behind it, as indicated below.

      19. Pull the rubber window seal away from the insert, as shown below.

      19. Pull out the seal from nearly top to bottom, as shown below, but don't remove the seal completely. Leave it attached at the top of the window and also to the bottom of the triangular insert. This will help insure that it goes back in correctly.

      20. On the inside of the triangular insert, you should see a white tab, as indicated in the picture below. This tab holds the insert in place.

      21. Using a screwdriver, pull the tab outward and simultaneously slide the insert up and out of the door, as shown below.

      22. The picture below shows the entire insert still attached to the rubber window seal.

      23. Take note of the position of the bottom of the rubber seal (yellow arrow) relative to that of the bottom of the insert (red arrow), as shown below. Make sure to attach the seal to the new insert in the same position so that the seal reinstalls into the quarter panel window divider correctly.

      24. Installation of the new insert is the reverse of the above. The tab on the new insert should click into place if installed into the door correctly.


      Let me know if you have any questions.

      As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes that you make.


      Modified by VgRt6 at 6:13 PM 5-11-2004


    2. 07-31-2003 02:45 PM #2
      very nicely done
      Forsale: Full screen MFA Euro Cluster :337 BBS RC's mint : Euro Gamma Radio with indash 6 Disc CD Changer : Lots of other misc parts : Parts Located In Canada
      Please search my user name for parts for sale.

    3. 07-31-2003 02:59 PM #3
      excellent write-up of these procedures!! the mods should plug this into the DIY area for all eternity!! and i thought i was the only one with the rusty triangle divider... great job again!!

    4. Moderator EPilot's Avatar
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      07-31-2003 03:27 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by rmrdaddy »
      the mods should plug this into the DIY area for all eternity!!

      Already did


    5. 07-31-2003 03:28 PM #5
      kudos to you for taking the time to write that up

    6. Member ElectroMike's Avatar
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      07-31-2003 03:39 PM #6
      I hope that either Bentley is paying you for this or you will be selling them this write up!

      BTW, great job, wish you had this a few months ago when I was replacing my rear door speaker.


    7. 07-31-2003 03:47 PM #7
      I wish someone was paying me for it - that way my wife wouldn't complain that I'm doing these instead of looking for a job. This is more fun though.

      Thanks for the compliments guys. Let me know if you think anything should be added or changed.


      Modified by VgRt6 at 4:41 PM 7-31-2003


    8. 01-09-2004 11:09 AM #8
      I think my rear passenger woofer is dying and I want to look at it. Can i just access the speaker via the round grill cover or do I need to bust open the whole panel. On a side note, would speakers be covered under cert?


    9. 01-09-2004 11:46 AM #9
      you need to take out the door panel in order to remove the speaker.

    10. 01-09-2004 12:10 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by Jenkins »
      you need to take out the door panel in order to remove the speaker.

      yes

    11. 05-11-2004 06:05 PM #11
      Pics are back online ... this time for good!

      Gary


    12. Member Vorsprung's Avatar
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      05-11-2004 06:53 PM #12
      hey i have a question, my rear drivers side door wont open, either from the inside or outside. Im sure that the cable hook must have detatched from the hole making the handles unable to open the lock. Ive scheduled an appointment to have them look at it but i know i can do this myself. Is there any way to get access to the "guts" without taking the panels off....in any case its not like i dont want to but more like i cant since the door wont open in the first place. Any ideas?

    13. 05-11-2004 07:51 PM #13
      Nope. You have to take the panel off to access either the cable or the door lock module. Sorry.

      Gary


    14. 05-11-2004 07:54 PM #14
      Nice very clean instructions

      Good job


    15. Member Vorsprung's Avatar
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      05-12-2004 03:21 AM #15
      So garry if i take it to the dealer they are gonna have to trash the panel, cuz the problem is definetly inside

    16. 05-12-2004 07:06 AM #16
      I don't think the panel has to be trashed. My guess is it's possible to remove the panel with the door closed. The tough part will be getting the Torx driver between the bottom of the door and the door sill trim. If you can get to those screws, and loosen them, you should be able to pop the panel off.

      There has to be some way to do it. I highly doubt that they designed everything in such a way that you had to take a chainsaw to the panel to open the door!

      Let me know how it goes.

      Gary


    17. Member Vorsprung's Avatar
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      05-12-2004 08:58 PM #17
      taking her to my dealer tomorrow to see whats up....keep u posted

    18. Member GTI337DUB's Avatar
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      05-12-2004 10:03 PM #18
      nice

    19. 07-14-2004 05:25 PM #19
      The DIY was amazying thanks guys. Just needed some needle nose pliers to pull out the insert.

      It looks wicked now thanks!!!


    20. 08-09-2004 10:14 AM #20
      I agree, needle nose was needed to pull the insert up... also, my rubber seal doesn't align perfectly with the bottom of the insert, it actually overlaps by almost half an inch... just wanted to note that for others, pay attention to how it looks when it comes out.

    21. 08-09-2004 10:35 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by digitalhippie »
      I agree, needle nose was needed to pull the insert up... also, my rubber seal doesn't align perfectly with the bottom of the insert, it actually overlaps by almost half an inch... just wanted to note that for others, pay attention to how it looks when it comes out.

      Thanks for the heads up. I figured the length of the seal might not be exact. That's why I tried to make it somewhat general and tell people to note the relative positions before separating the pieces.

      I didn't need the needle nose pliers to get mine out. I wonder what's different between our cars. Weird.

      Gary


    22. 08-09-2004 10:47 AM #22
      someone move this to DIY page!!!

    23. 08-09-2004 10:52 AM #23
      It's been there for a while.

      Gary


    24. 08-09-2004 10:59 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      I didn't need the needle nose pliers to get mine out. I wonder what's different between our cars. Weird.

      How long were they on your car before you replaced them? Did mine this morning, and the originals were 3.5yrs old now... just think they were stuck... no biggie


    25. 08-09-2004 11:15 AM #25
      I actually didn't replace mine. I just added those steps to the DIY since I already had everything apart. I was unemployed when I did the DIY and every doallr counted back then (still does now too even though I'm working.)

      At that point, the car was 4.5 years old.

      Gary


    26. 08-09-2004 11:25 AM #26
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      I was unemployed when I did the DIY and every doallr counted back then (still does now too even though I'm working.)


      I hear ya.... I live in Fairfield County CT... one of the richest, most expensive parts of the US... but the rust pissed me off too much, so it was worth the $20


      It was actually rusted below the seal, inside the door... not the door itself, but the insert.... CHEAP SH*T


      Modified by digitalhippie at 9:04 PM 8-9-2004


    27. 10-13-2004 11:15 AM #27
      my triangles are rusting and the car is a year and a half old! I'll have to bug the dealer for the parts next time I'm in there.

      Great DIY! This will definitely come in handy.


    28. 10-13-2004 07:12 PM #28
      Great write up. Did it last week, thanks!!!

    29. 10-13-2004 11:22 PM #29
      thankyou

    30. 12-22-2004 01:38 AM #30
      Ditto! hehe

    31. 01-20-2005 11:15 AM #31
      Just to let you know, 18 months later your post is still doing GOOD! Very helpful in replacing the rear woofer. LOL, a few months ago I attacked the front drivers panel.......the window crashed due to the regulator.....what a mess with that cable!! I got the inner panel out and quickly put it back.......over my head!!! I hate cables!!!

      Got to the dealer and they said the fix is free..........even with the outer panel and parts in the backseat. They did it without an appointment and while I waited......One hour and 15 minutes total for both front windows plus the brake switch recall. Incredible.....and not even my dealer!! Hiley in Arlington, TX.


    32. 10-05-2005 06:57 PM #32
      Thanks for the DIY so much. I was needing to install sound deadening material in the doors and that helped me accomplish exactly what I needed. That blasted latch was a doozy to hook back in, nevertheless it worked. Thanks again.

    33. 06-05-2006 02:29 PM #33
      Wow! MAD PROPS for this DIY, my door panel came off in less than 5 minutes due to your help.

      Thanks,
      CWP


    34. 08-25-2006 09:26 PM #34
      Thank you. Instead of paying over $300 to get my rear window regulator replaced I can do it myself for under $130. Thank you thank you! If you're ever on LI come over to my place and get some cold on tap!

    35. 09-10-2006 02:49 AM #35
      Today my right rear window shattered when I tried to lower it.
      The reg. broke away from it and left the shattered glass right where it was?
      Your instructions for the door panel will be a big help. Do you have any advice on replacing the window glass?
      Is there a DIY post for this? If so I have not been able to find it.
      Thanks very much,
      Herschel

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