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    Thread: DIY - Removing interior parts II (dash trim, brake light switch, radio, cupholder, radio/ HVAC cage)

    1. 08-05-2003 12:59 AM #1
      I had some free time and all the necessary pics, so I put this little DIY together. Hope it's useful to someone.


      PART II: STEPS FOR REMOVING DRIVER'S SIDE DASH TRIM, BRAKE-LIGHT SWITCH, RADIO/CUBBY HOLE, FRONT CUPHOLDER AND RADIO/HVAC TRIM CAGE

      The following outlines the procedure for removing the above items on a MKIV Jetta and Golf/GTI. This DIY (PART II) is a continuation of PART I - I had to break the DIY up into two threads since the single-thread version far exceeded the 20000 character limit for a single post. It also helps make the DIY more searchable, since the parts covered in PART II will be listed in the thread title.

      The procedure below was based on a 99.5 Jetta GLS VR6 with manual HVAC controls - it may be slightly different on later-models cars and on those with CLIMATRONIC. Please do these procedures at your own risk and be ready to make small adjustments while doing them. Also, please be observant while removing parts so that they go back together correctly.

      Some of the pictures in PART II of the DIY were taken without performing all of the steps in PART I (I had reassembled the items in PART I and did not want to disassemble them again), so items that should have already been removed may appear in some of the pictures. Please disregard the discrepancies in continuity. If you follow the steps as written and only focus on the piece(s) of interest in the photos below, you should have no problems completing all of the disassembly steps. Thanks to nimhrat for providing the photos associated with the removal of the OEM radio (I have an aftermarket headunit) and the flap on the new style front cupholder - they were taken from the following thread - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=961773). Also, thanks to images@digitallattice.bc.ca for the image of the single-DIN support tray in step 54.

      - To remove the driver's side trim, follow steps 43 through 47.
      - To remove the brake light switch, follow steps 43 through 50.
      - To remove the radio and cubby hole (if applicable), follow steps 51 and 52.
      - To remove the front cupholder, follow steps 57 through 58.
      - If you are doing a trim swap and need to remove the radio/HVAC trim cage and swap the cupholder flap, complete PART I of this DIY and then follow steps 43 through 61.

      __________________________________________________ __________________

      STEPS:

      Before beginning PART II, perform the necessary steps from PART I, as outlined above.

      43. Remove the driver's side dash trim by opening the fuse panel access door on the driver's side of the dashboard. The switchblade key is useful for this step, as shown below.

      44. Once the fuse panel access door is open pull off the trim piece which contains the door using both hands, as shown below (only one hand is shown since I needed the other one to take the picture).

      45. The picture below shows why the fuse panel trim piece can be difficult to remove - it is held on by 3 clips (yellow arrows) and 1 tab (red arrow).

      46. Remove the dash trim piece to the lower left of the steering wheel by removing the two T20 Torx screws at the bottom of the piece (indicated by the arrows in the picture below) and pulling the trim piece off of the dash.

      47. Remove the dash trim piece to the lower right of the steering wheel in the same manner. Remove the two T20 Torx screws (indicated by the arrows in the picture below) and pull the trim piece off of the dash.

      48. If you want to access the brake light switch or anything else up under the dash, remove the panel above the driver's side footwell by uncliping the front of the panel (pull the area indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below toward the rear of the car) and then sliding the panel out from under the dash. Note that the edge of the panel closest to the front of the car is secured by two horizontal slots (white plastic), indicated the red arrows in the picture below. This step is not necessary for the further disassembly of the center console/radio/HVAC area. If you are not accessing the brake light switch or anything else up under the dash, goto step 51 (ignore steps 49 and 50).

      49. The picture below shows the location of the brake light switch, which is indicated by the arrow. This switch often malfunctions and need to be adjusted or replaced. To remove the switch from it's bracket, rotate the switch CCW (35-45° or 90°, depending on which version you have) and slide it towards the rear of the car. DO NOT PRESS DOWN THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE DOING THIS OR THE INTERNAL MECHANISM OF THE SWITCH (on the most recent versions) WILL BREAK!!! To install a new brake light switch (without destroying it as many people have), follow the directions I posted in the following DIY - Installing a new brake light switch (without destroying it!).

      50. To disconnect the brake light switch from it's harness connector, push the two tabs (indicated by arrows in the picture below) toward each other and pull the harness connector off of the switch.

      51. The next step is the removal of the radio - the directions for this depend on what type of radio you have. If you have a stock VW radio, insert the radio removal keys into the vertical slots at the edge of the radio face (indicated by the arrows in the picture below), press the keys in all the way while at the same time pulling back on the radio to slide it out of it's DIN slot. Once it's out, disconnect the power, speaker and antenna connections behind the radio.

      52. If you have a double-DIN radio, remove the double-DIN unit as described above and goto step 55. If you have separate single-DIN radio and CD units, remove both units as described above and continue on with step 53. If you have a single-DIN radio and a cubby hole, remove the radio as described above. Next pull the cubby hole unit toward the rear of the car to remove it - it's secured by a single tab at the back (edge closest to front of car) - and then continue on with step 53. If you have an aftermarket head unit, remove the headunit per the manufacturer's instructions and also remove the DIN cage that the headunit slides into.

      53. Remove the support tray between the two single-DIN slots, shown in the picture below.

      54. The DIN support tray is secured with a clip on either side (yellow arrows in picture below) and a tab at the rear (red arrow in picture below). Undo the clip on both sides of the tray (may need to use a screwdriver or other tool - I can't remember) and then pull the tray out to disconnect the tab at the rear.

      55. Remove the trim from around the HVAC controls using a screwdriver or other suitable tool, as shown below.

      56. Remove the four T20 Torx screws at the corners of the HVAC controls, as indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

      57. Open the front cupholder flap while keeping the actual cupholder tucked away in it's slot. To do this, push on the flap to release the cupholder, push the cuphloder back in but don't fold the flap down, as shown below. The cupholder unit is secured to the cage surrounding the cupholder/radio/HVAC controls by two tabs, indicated by the arrows in the picture below. Move the tabs toward each other simultaneously using a screw driver and then slide the cupholder unit out. This is actually much easier then it sounds - move one clip to the side and then pull that side of the cupholder unit out a little to keep the clip from springing back. Carefully move the clip on the other side and then pull the unit out.

      58. The picture below shows one of the clips that secures the cupholder in place.

      59. Finally, remove the four T20 Torx screws that attach the radio/HVAC trim cage to the dashboard. There are two screws on each side of the cage. The screws on the driver's side are shown in the picture below - the screws on the passenger's side are in the identical spots. You should now be able to remove the trim cage from the dashboard.

      60. If you need to swap the cupholder flap, follow the procedure corresponding to the type of cupholder that you have. If you have the older-style cupholder (the one with out the spring-loaded arms), remove the flap by pushing out the hinge pins on the flap, indicated by the arrows in the picture below.

      61. If you have the newer-style cupholder (the one with the spring-loaded arms, remove the flap by using a screwdriver to pop off the metal tabs that secure it to the main cupholder unit, as shown below.


      REASSEMBLY TIPS

      D. If you remove the panel about the driver's side footwell, remember to correctly slide the rear of the panel into the two white plastic retaining slots, one of which is shown in the picture below.

      E. The rest of the reinstallation should be the exact opposite of the above - follow steps 43 through 61 in reverse.


      Let me know if you have any questions.

      As always, do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes in the procedure or those that you make while performing it.


      Modified by VgRt6 at 8:39 PM 5-11-2004


    2. Member nirav's Avatar
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      08-05-2003 01:21 AM #2
      VgRt6 strikes again with another excellent, and appreciated write-up

    3. Member santos.'s Avatar
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      08-05-2003 01:24 AM #3
      Excellent...
      Many thanks Gary, from all of us

    4. 08-05-2003 01:41 AM #4
      Glad I could help. There's still a few more coming ...

    5. Member
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      08-05-2003 04:30 AM #5
      Very nice Good job

    6. 08-05-2003 11:20 AM #6
      Bump.

    7. 08-05-2003 11:24 AM #7
      Very nice write-up.

    8. 11-26-2003 02:45 PM #8
      What is the secret to the new and improved brake light switch. I put the new part in and the brakes lights are always on no matter what position the switch is in. The guy at the parts counter won't tell me the trick to making it work. Hope you guys can.
      thanks in advance

    9. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      11-26-2003 02:58 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by masscarguy »
      What is the secret to the new and improved brake light switch. I put the new part in and the brakes lights are always on no matter what position the switch is in. The guy at the parts counter won't tell me the trick to making it work. Hope you guys can.
      thanks in advance

      Brake switch has two stages of length, You need to push it in to the shorter length otherwise it will be too long and consequentially might always be on. Just make sure the lever is exactly the same length as your old one. Hope this helps.


    10. 11-26-2003 03:02 PM #10
      Not sure about how to adjust it. I've heard about the trick, but don't recall what it is. Hopefully someone can chime in. I'd start another thread and ask how to do it. That way it won't get buried in here. You'll probably get more views too.

    11. Member Kei78's Avatar
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      11-26-2003 03:09 PM #11

    12. 03-30-2004 12:09 PM #12
      I needed to change the glovebox on my 2001 Jetta GLS. This tutorial made it so easy I broke nothing and did the whole thing in about an hour and a half. I did not need the 10MM socket for the console around the shifter by the way. For anybody that needs to replace their glovebox. You have to use the old lock out of the old glovebox. I removed it by
      1. Putting the key in it,
      2. Making shure it was unlocked
      3. Pry the tabs on the back side of the latch around the lock out.
      4. Push it through the hole
      5. Push it into the new glovebox, being careful to alight the "key" (Not car keY) into the slot until it clicks.
      Thanks a million they wanted $120 to install the $35 glove box. And they laughed at me when I said I would put it on myself.

    13. 05-11-2004 08:42 PM #13
      Pics are back online ... this time for good!

      Gary


    14. 06-04-2004 04:42 PM #14
      Hey there...thanks for the absolutely killer DIY. One question on the radio removal (stock VW)...where do you get the removal "keys"...and are they necessary? Thanks again.

    15. 06-04-2004 05:47 PM #15
      You should be able to buy the keys at some shops that do stereo installations. The dealer may have them as well. You don't absolutely need them though. Many people cut strips from an old credit card and use them. A thin piece of sheet metal would work also.

      Gary


    16. Member sebastianjbauer's Avatar
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      06-04-2004 05:51 PM #16
      Gary does it again.
      post count ≠ relevance

      They say you are what you eat, which is funny, because I don't remember eating a ****ing legend.

    17. 06-04-2004 05:56 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by sebastianjbauer »
      Gary does it again.

      About 10 months ago ...

      Gary


    18. Member sebastianjbauer's Avatar
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      06-04-2004 07:06 PM #18
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

      About 10 months ago ...

      Gary

      Oh well... great posts are timeless.

      post count ≠ relevance

      They say you are what you eat, which is funny, because I don't remember eating a ****ing legend.

    19. 06-04-2004 07:10 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by sebastianjbauer »

      Oh well... great posts are timeless.

      Thanks.


    20. 06-04-2004 09:35 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by masscarguy »
      What is the secret to the new and improved brake light switch. I put the new part in and the brakes lights are always on no matter what position the switch is in. The guy at the parts counter won't tell me the trick to making it work. Hope you guys can.
      thanks in advance

      Ok you don't have to take all that paneling off to get to the brake light switch. 3 torx 20 screws thats it. Pull the panel down and slide out. You have to silicon the shaft of the plunger on the switch. When you put it in you have to hold the brake pedal up with on hand and push the switch in with the other to clip into the bracket. turn the switch to the right until it clicks in, and it will turn almost another 1/4 turn so it locks into postion. You have to keep your hand on the brake pedal the whole time so it doesn't depress.


    21. 10-15-2004 07:54 PM #21

    22. Member Fugee's Avatar
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      10-15-2004 08:17 PM #22
      Good job on the write up.

    23. Member
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      10-23-2004 12:56 AM #23
      Great write up. I wish I'd found this months ago...

      One thing to add to the glovebox lock replacement note. Make sure when putting the lock into your new glovebox that you get it aligned correctly. If you don't pay attention and get it 180 degrees out then you'll need to trash the glovebox to get it back out. (And yeah...you'll feel really stupid when you realize what you've done.)


    24. Member FUZE's Avatar
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      12-09-2004 07:04 PM #24
      Figured I post to let VgRt6 know he helped someone else

    25. 04-08-2005 11:40 PM #25
      Very helpful. I was able to remove the cubby and the cup holders in my 2001 Jetta GLS. Was planning to insert a 1 1/2 DIN Blaupunkt ME-1 DVD Player along with the stock radio.

      There's a separator between the cup holder slot and the cubby slot. Any Ideas how I can "remove" the separator (plastic) without cutting through?

      Thanks in advance

      Sudheendra


    26. Member VDUBRACER187's Avatar
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      04-08-2005 11:48 PM #26

    27. 04-08-2005 11:52 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by sudheendrar »
      Very helpful. I was able to remove the cubby and the cup holders in my 2001 Jetta GLS. Was planning to insert a 1 1/2 DIN Blaupunkt ME-1 DVD Player along with the stock radio.

      There's a separator between the cup holder slot and the cubby slot. Any Ideas how I can "remove" the separator (plastic) without cutting through?

      Thanks in advance

      Sudheendra

      that is part of the cage i believe. you can only cut it out. i'll find a picture.

      this picture sucks:


      Modified by bigmak at 11:54 PM 4-8-2005


      Modified by bigmak at 11:54 PM 4-8-2005


    28. 06-16-2005 11:32 PM #28
      I wanted to remove the rear view mirror on my 04 jetta to paint it black, don't ask why, but i just do.

      Anybody know how to do that, i looked but didn't find anything in the DYI section?

      Help would be appreciated. So would pictures


    29. 06-17-2005 07:28 AM #29
      You should just have to twist it 30-45° or so and it will pop off.

      Gary


    30. 10-11-2005 09:51 PM #30
      Great information and pictures on dash panel removal. Just a quick question. How far do I have to disasseble in order to replace the HVAC blub that just burned out?

    31. 10-11-2005 10:04 PM #31
      I feel your pain. I had a 90 Passat GL 16V myself. Happiest day of my life...When I traded it off for a new 97 Jetta Trek.

    32. Member
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      10-11-2005 10:05 PM #32
      appreciate it!

    33. 10-11-2005 10:05 PM #33
      Quote, originally posted by jammer370 »
      Great information and pictures on dash panel removal. Just a quick question. How far do I have to disasseble in order to replace the HVAC blub that just burned out?

      you take the middle knob and you pull it hard. it'll come right out. some people say to use pliers and a wash cloth to protect it, but i just yank them out.


    34. 10-12-2005 10:51 PM #34
      Thanks! Easy fix. Way easier that I thought it would be. I was not looking forward to a big job for a little bulb.

    35. 11-21-2005 12:46 AM #35
      I would like to say million thanks to you guys (especially VgRt6) bcoz I learn a lot of vw stuffs from this EXCELLENT forum. Presently, I am going to install a cd changer into the central console. But I have no idea of how to take out the storage box (the one under the cup-holder). Does anyone have a clue? I tried to find out from other threads but no pics available........ sad.

      Appreciate with you help


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