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Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion

788K views 3K replies 413 participants last post by  rbd2 
#1 ·
Purpose: The objective of this thread is to get basic inspiration, ideas, and just plain help on shaving the engine bay. If you have performed any shaving job, big or small, and have interest in showing DIY/How to's to help the community, please feel free to post.
Rules: I would like to keep this thread open, helpful and useful. Questions on How to do a certain job can be posted along with solutions. KEEP IT clean

Some Inspirations


Some Basic Ideas
-Relocation of Fluid Bottles
-Wires/Harness
-fuse Box's
-Battery Relocation
-Shaved wipers/ wiper Motors
-etc, etc...
Shaved Pictures
Shaved 1
Shaved 2
Shaved 3

Battery Stuff
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Battery Choices
Vacuum Reservoir
Vacuum Reservoir Relocation 1
Vaccume reservoir Relocation 2
Vaccume reservoir Relocation 3
DV Relocation Kit
SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
Polishing
Polishing tips by The ministah1

Elvir



Modified by Elvir at 9:17 AM 10-11-2007
 
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#980 ·
I have no clue what i'm doing and dont want to mess anything up. So with that said is there anyone near York PA will to come to my house and help clean up my bay? Motors already out and the front ends already off. I work for a parts company so if you need anything let me know or we can work out a payment.
 
#992 ·
Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!
 
#993 ·
Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!
For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.
 
#997 ·
hey guys.
thought i would share on deleting the power steering
i ran without the pump connected but all the lines and pump were still in. it was very driveable.
i ended up getting everything out and running a small line to loop the rack

heres what i used
shortened belt, 36.7inches. will get part number on monday.
m14 to -6 adapter
m16 to -6 adapter
-6 90 degree bend x 2 ( can also use 2 130 degree or 2 180 degree )
i got the crush washers from vw but u can order them online as well. u need 1 m14 and 1 m16
braided black nylon hose
i would also recommend ordering 034 motorsports solid steering rack mount and their solid subframe bushings. it was much easier to pull the subframe out and do everything off the car.


i ended up cutting the main bracket that holds the power steering pump, ac, and alternator.
i dont have ac or ps now so i cut it down

pictures


 
#999 ·
any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?:confused:
 
#1,001 ·
all i have on my firewall is gold thermal barrier. the noise from the engine bay has not changed. (except i replaced the whine of a SC with the whistle of a turbo)
i wouldn't worry about the noise. make sure you get something to ward off the heat from the firewall and the rain tray if you're not going to run heatshields. it'd be a shame to poach your ECU like an egg.
 
#1,007 ·
When you guys relocate the fusebox:

Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?

Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??

I might be relocating my fusebox soon.

Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2
 
#1,008 ·
Fusebox: All new wires and connections. I replaced everything in the system with high grade tinned copper. When I say that I mean track all connections from the fusebox to their termination points and build a new line. See my pic above. This is all up to you but anyone I know that has had problems has had them because of a bad connection.

Overflow can be anywhere, hide away. In an open system anything that is pushed out fills the can and when it cools enough it will pull the fluid back in. Hope that helps.
 
#1,017 ·
Last night I finished my wire tuck! :D

I'm so pumped on it. The fact that I never had messed with wiring in my life and just went at it. The car started on the first crank, not one single dash light. Tuck went 100% flawless.

Now I need to get my VF motor mounts and powder coat those, the intake mani, and valve cover, cause that rattle can job is embarassing :mad:

The tear down..







Getting stuff back together..





The nervous start..



:D







Thanks for the help!

:peace:
 
#1,029 ·
10w 330OHM resistor. After removing the EVAP you will be left with a loose plug. Solder the resistor between the two wires. I want to say it will be a Blue/Yellow and Purple/Red wire.
 
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