Purpose: The objective of this thread is to get basic inspiration, ideas, and just plain help on shaving the engine bay. If you have performed any shaving job, big or small, and have interest in showing DIY/How to's to help the community, please feel free to post. Rules: I would like to keep this thread open, helpful and useful. Questions on How to do a certain job can be posted along with solutions. KEEP IT clean
The FCM I have simply mounted lower and farther forward of the current location with a SS tab I welded to the frame rail. This keeps it hidden but also keeps the wiring short. Hope this helps!
I have no clue what i'm doing and dont want to mess anything up. So with that said is there anyone near York PA will to come to my house and help clean up my bay? Motors already out and the front ends already off. I work for a parts company so if you need anything let me know or we can work out a payment.
No need to dig around! As I assumed Knu has it, I get everything through these guys (except that block). Great quality, cheap prices and quick shipping.
Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.
Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.
For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.
hey guys.
thought i would share on deleting the power steering
i ran without the pump connected but all the lines and pump were still in. it was very driveable.
i ended up getting everything out and running a small line to loop the rack
heres what i used
shortened belt, 36.7inches. will get part number on monday.
m14 to -6 adapter
m16 to -6 adapter
-6 90 degree bend x 2 ( can also use 2 130 degree or 2 180 degree )
i got the crush washers from vw but u can order them online as well. u need 1 m14 and 1 m16
braided black nylon hose
i would also recommend ordering 034 motorsports solid steering rack mount and their solid subframe bushings. it was much easier to pull the subframe out and do everything off the car.
i ended up cutting the main bracket that holds the power steering pump, ac, and alternator.
i dont have ac or ps now so i cut it down
any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?
all i have on my firewall is gold thermal barrier. the noise from the engine bay has not changed. (except i replaced the whine of a SC with the whistle of a turbo)
i wouldn't worry about the noise. make sure you get something to ward off the heat from the firewall and the rain tray if you're not going to run heatshields. it'd be a shame to poach your ECU like an egg.
Dead on. The noise is negligible, the heat though, ohhhhh the heat. I double insulated my inner firewall this spring and am really hoping it helps. Driving is ok but drive for a while, park then get back in and the heat soak is noticeable.
i know it goes firmly against your pretty brown paint, but that gold foil is amazing. one layer and even on the 8 hours to SOWO and back, i never felt any heat thru the firewall.
Quick question.. On the low coolant level sensor, how do I get rid of the sensor without setting off the dash light, cutting them back and leaving them or cutting them back and connecting them?
when you disconnect the sensor you need to bridge the wires.. i just used a piece of wire with male spade connectors, plugged it in to the harness , taped , and threw it in the rain tray:thumbup::beer:
Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?
Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??
I might be relocating my fusebox soon.
Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?
Fusebox: All new wires and connections. I replaced everything in the system with high grade tinned copper. When I say that I mean track all connections from the fusebox to their termination points and build a new line. See my pic above. This is all up to you but anyone I know that has had problems has had them because of a bad connection.
Overflow can be anywhere, hide away. In an open system anything that is pushed out fills the can and when it cools enough it will pull the fluid back in. Hope that helps.
Honestly dude, it is a whole lot less than extending. I can solder some nice gold plated ends onto my cable and run it a lot quicker than extending OEM stuff inside the car.
I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.
I'm so pumped on it. The fact that I never had messed with wiring in my life and just went at it. The car started on the first crank, not one single dash light. Tuck went 100% flawless.
Now I need to get my VF motor mounts and powder coat those, the intake mani, and valve cover, cause that rattle can job is embarassing
anyone pull the EVAP on a 2.0? Stuff keeps breaking on mine so I figure its easier to pull it. I'm not sure where in the harness to add a resistor, and what ohm. Also, what should I do with the cannister?
10w 330OHM resistor. After removing the EVAP you will be left with a loose plug. Solder the resistor between the two wires. I want to say it will be a Blue/Yellow and Purple/Red wire.
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