EXTERNAL WATER PUMP BLOCK:
The same way you would fit an 8V or 16V Head onto any old style external water pump block such as 9A/3A/PG/PM.
There are 3 Oil return ports at the rear of the head that need to be blocked as well one on the front.
* For the (3) Oil returns @ the rear ,you can either:
1. Weld them shut
2. Use (3) 3/8" NPT plug which is tapered and made to seal fluid passages.
* for the small Oil return @ the front ,if you have the:
1. PG Block you weld up the exisiting return and create a new one ("a") that matches the ABA Headgasket.
2. ABA Block you drill the ABA headgasket at the front oil return to match the AEB cylinder head.No modifications to the head are needed when using the crossflow blocks (ABA/9A/PL/AEB) since they have the necessary over hanging lip to ensure proper sealing of the headgasket.
Make sure you use an ABA 4-Layer Metal Headgasket to ensure proper sealing
PART # : 037 103 383 N
* For those wanting to know how to set the timing chain follow this useful link.
The whole point of this thread is too allow 8V PG G60 owners (and others) to upgrade there valvetrain without the need to upgrade there injection system.Jwatts & Mkrad have done alot of research and chip development (SNS Tuning) with Digi-I so getting a chip burnt for your application is not going to be too hard.
Anyways on with the show..for this your going to need the following pieces:
The same procedure used for the PG block will be adapted to the ABA block.The ABA block has a deck height of 236mm so its going to need a longer belt and this is where the difference in belts come into play.
Well since your no longer using a distributor then your IM shaft does not need to spin @ 1:2 ratio to the crankshaft so the following applies:
* Exhaust Manifold from an Audi A3/VW Golf 1.8 20V NA - PART# 06A 253 031 E
* Intake Manifold from an Audi TT Quattro - PART# 06A 133 223 AT or custom make your own.
* Accessory Pulley's
All the accessory's will align the same except for the crankshaft unit.You will need to either:
A. Purchase an ABA unit and machine it down 5.9mm
B. Purhcase a Diesel unit from Smokinjoe644
* Optional Cogged Gear Pulley's
* OEM Turbo Oil Pan [PART #:068 103 601 L]
* Breather Block off plate for 9A/ABA block : This can be sourced from forum elder Peter Tong
INTERNAL WATER PUMP BLOCK:
Some users dont want to go through the hassle of building a Hybrid motor and would prefer to start with a new engine from a 2002+ VW Golf/Jetta 1.8T.The obvious advantage to doing this is the low mileage and the availability of parts.Unfortunately for some users,the AWP/AWW/etc engines require full SEM systems (034EFi,etc) in order to get them up and running.Allthough SEM is an excellent choice,it is not smog legal in some States.A way around this is by implimenting Digi-I or similar fuel injection systems.
ReflexTuning offers a kit that allows users who have access to a new style 1.8T engine to run a distributor in the place of stock Hall/Camshaft position sensor allowing them to use Digi-I.The end result is a rather slick looking set up and requires no additional parts by the user.(other than the engine ofcourse)
Well the fortunate thing about the AEG engine is that it is an internal water pump block engine,therefore the rear oil returns in the head do not need to be modified,however quite a few parts are needed.
The End Result courtesy of Twinscrew20V:
& Eurosport
The collected information and projects in this thread is simply amazing...
Special Thanks goes out to the following as they made this happen:
* Shawn DeZego who has been nothing but GREAT with his helpfullness and attention to detail!Below is an image of the current state of his ABE G60 Project.
(click image to enlarge)
* Twinscrew20V
* Scirocco20v/GTibunny16v
* rhussjr
* smokinjoe644
Other Vortexer Projects:
Westcoastjay's Proect thread
WolfGTI's Project thread
**Useful thread on FI ITB's**
Some Additional Information that I found/Calculated:
For those of you that have hybrid parts for sale.Feel free to post them in here but please follow the rules.
Modified by Issam Abed at 10:25 PM 7-15-2009
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
1.How do I fit a 20V on a PG block? |
The same way you would fit an 8V or 16V Head onto any old style external water pump block such as 9A/3A/PG/PM.
There are 3 Oil return ports at the rear of the head that need to be blocked as well one on the front.
* For the (3) Oil returns @ the rear ,you can either:
1. Weld them shut
2. Use (3) 3/8" NPT plug which is tapered and made to seal fluid passages.
* for the small Oil return @ the front ,if you have the:
1. PG Block you weld up the exisiting return and create a new one ("a") that matches the ABA Headgasket.
2. ABA Block you drill the ABA headgasket at the front oil return to match the AEB cylinder head.No modifications to the head are needed when using the crossflow blocks (ABA/9A/PL/AEB) since they have the necessary over hanging lip to ensure proper sealing of the headgasket.
Make sure you use an ABA 4-Layer Metal Headgasket to ensure proper sealing
PART # : 037 103 383 N
* For those wanting to know how to set the timing chain follow this useful link.
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
2.How do I put a 20V Head onto a PG Block and still retain the distributor for Digi-I? |
The whole point of this thread is too allow 8V PG G60 owners (and others) to upgrade there valvetrain without the need to upgrade there injection system.Jwatts & Mkrad have done alot of research and chip development (SNS Tuning) with Digi-I so getting a chip burnt for your application is not going to be too hard.
Anyways on with the show..for this your going to need the following pieces:
Quote, originally posted by What to Use » |
1. CAM GEAR: 16V Cam Gear - 52T : 027 109 111H 2. CRANK GEAR: 16v Crankshaft Sprocket - 26T : 027 105 236B 3. INTERMEDIATE SHAFT GEAR: Because your using a distribtuor you are going to want your camshaft & distributor to turn at a 1:2 ratio to the crankshaft.The only way to achieve this is by pressing on a 52T gear onto the IM shaft.In this case you have 2 options: 1. Using an AWP 20V (06B 109 111) Camshaft Gear and the 8V Intermediate shaft.Modify the keyway on the IM shaft to fit the camgear.The 8v used a press in half mood key way and the 20v cam gear uses a molded in 1/4 moon so it wont fit unless a path is cut in the IM shaft to fit the key onto the gear 2. Using the 16V Camshaft Gear along with the PL IM shaft.This maybe the more affordable route but it requires a spacer because the gear is going to be to far inward. 4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 153T BELT: * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner Since we are usng a 220mm PG block then either of the following 151-153T belts will work. All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile 1. OEM AEB : PART# 058 109 119 C 5. PISTONS - 81mm 1. Stock AEB 1.8T Pistons 2. Custom set from JE Pistons through rhussjr 3. MAHLE 81.5mm upgrades from 034Motorsport 6. CONNECTING RODS: 1. AEB Connecting Rods - The PG connecting rods are too short and the wrist pin diameter on them is 22mm as opposed to the AEB's 20mm.These can be had as a combination all over vortex for under $150US 2. 9A 144mm Connecting rods with ARP rod bolts 3. Forged 144mm Connecting rods from SCAT,Pauter,Corillo,Eagle,etc |
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
3.How do I put a 20V Head onto an ABA Block and still retain the distributor? |
The same procedure used for the PG block will be adapted to the ABA block.The ABA block has a deck height of 236mm so its going to need a longer belt and this is where the difference in belts come into play.
Quote, originally posted by ABA uses a longer 158T belt » |
4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 158T BELT: * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner * 52T IM Shaft gear used All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile 5. PISTONS - 82.5mm 1. Stock 9A 16V pistons with a relief cut for the #5 valve 2. Custom set from JE Pistons through rhussjr 6. CONNECTING RODS: 1. ABA Connecting Rods with ARP bolts 2. Forged 159mm Connecting rods from SCAT,Pauter,Corillo,Eagle,etc |
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
4.I want to build an ABA 20V but I dont need the distirbutor.What should my combination be like? |
Well since your no longer using a distributor then your IM shaft does not need to spin @ 1:2 ratio to the crankshaft so the following applies:
Quote, originally posted by What to Use » |
3. INTERMEDIATE SHAFT GEAR: Stock 9A or PL Intermediate shaft with matching 43T IM shaft gear.Make sure you have the oil pump gear to correspond with your IM shaft. 4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 157T BELT: * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile 1. Contitech : PART# STD 1256 S8M - A260107 2. Gates : PART # 5432XS (Belt is from 1996 Fiat Bravia 1.6L 16v AH) |
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
5.What additional parts will I need? |
* Exhaust Manifold from an Audi A3/VW Golf 1.8 20V NA - PART# 06A 253 031 E
* Intake Manifold from an Audi TT Quattro - PART# 06A 133 223 AT or custom make your own.
* Accessory Pulley's
All the accessory's will align the same except for the crankshaft unit.You will need to either:
A. Purchase an ABA unit and machine it down 5.9mm
B. Purhcase a Diesel unit from Smokinjoe644
* Optional Cogged Gear Pulley's
* OEM Turbo Oil Pan [PART #:068 103 601 L]
* Breather Block off plate for 9A/ABA block : This can be sourced from forum elder Peter Tong
INTERNAL WATER PUMP BLOCK:
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
6.How do I impliment a distributor for Digi-I on an AWP 1.8T block? |
Some users dont want to go through the hassle of building a Hybrid motor and would prefer to start with a new engine from a 2002+ VW Golf/Jetta 1.8T.The obvious advantage to doing this is the low mileage and the availability of parts.Unfortunately for some users,the AWP/AWW/etc engines require full SEM systems (034EFi,etc) in order to get them up and running.Allthough SEM is an excellent choice,it is not smog legal in some States.A way around this is by implimenting Digi-I or similar fuel injection systems.
ReflexTuning offers a kit that allows users who have access to a new style 1.8T engine to run a distributor in the place of stock Hall/Camshaft position sensor allowing them to use Digi-I.The end result is a rather slick looking set up and requires no additional parts by the user.(other than the engine ofcourse)
Quote, originally posted by John Doe » |
7.Well I managed to score an AEG engine for dirt cheap and now I want to put a 20V head on it,what do I need to do? |
Well the fortunate thing about the AEG engine is that it is an internal water pump block engine,therefore the rear oil returns in the head do not need to be modified,however quite a few parts are needed.
Quote, originally posted by What parts are needed » |
1. PISTONS: The stock AEG pistons compensate for the 8V's 10:1 CR rather nicely but when paired with a 20V head,the CR drops to ~ 8.2:1 which is ideal for FI applications.Because the AEG block has an 82.5mm bore,sourcing stock "1.8T" 81mm pistons would be a waste of time and notching the allready low quality AEG pistons for a #5 valve is asking for trouble.The AEG 20V REQUIRES you to purchase custom pistons from either: 1. JE (through JRC Motorsports) 2. Weisco As you will not find 82.5mm 20V pistons with a low CR. 2. CONNECTING RODS: Just like the stock AWP 1.8T,the AEG also has weak connecting rods (rated @ 350bhp).Since the AEG 20V is a custom build it is recommended that you upgrade with forged units either from: * Pauter * Corillo * SCAT (most affordable) 3. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER: * OEM AWP/AWW 1.8T Timing belt All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile 4. HEAD GASKET: 06B 103 383 AF - European head gasket with the 3 oil returns.AEG headgasket does not have the 3 rear oil returns. 5. PARTS NEEDED FROM 1.8T ENGINE: Because your starting with a non-Turbo engine block,expect to need some stock 1.8T parts.You can always improvise with aftermarket components but having stock available is always a plus. * oil filter bracket (you can tap the stock AEG bracket for an oil feed) * coolant Lines & hoses * Coolant return line for turbocharger - This requires the rear of the AEG block for the coolant return fitting. * Hyrbid Oil Pan * Intake manifold * Exhaust manifold |
The End Result courtesy of Twinscrew20V:
& Eurosport
The collected information and projects in this thread is simply amazing...
* Shawn DeZego who has been nothing but GREAT with his helpfullness and attention to detail!Below is an image of the current state of his ABE G60 Project.
(click image to enlarge)
* Twinscrew20V
* Scirocco20v/GTibunny16v
* rhussjr
* smokinjoe644
Other Vortexer Projects:
Westcoastjay's Proect thread
WolfGTI's Project thread
**Useful thread on FI ITB's**
Some Additional Information that I found/Calculated:
Quote, originally posted by Head Chamber CC's » |
PG 8V Head Chamber = 29cc (counterflow) PL 16V Head Chamber = 49cc ABA 8V Head Chamber = 30cc (crossflow) AEB 20V Head Chamber = 42cc |
Quote, originally posted by ROD RATIO and other Values for Common VW Hybrid's » |
Block = PG Deck Height = 220mm Rod Length = 136mm Stroke = 86.4mm ROD RATIO = 1.57 Bore = 81mm Compression Height = 40.8mm Wrist Pin Diameter = 22mm Displacement = 1780cc Block = 3A/9A Deck Height = 220mm Rod Length = 144mm Stroke = 92.8mm ROD RATIO = 1.55 Bore = 82.5mm Compression Height = 29.6mm Wrist Pin Diameter = 20mm Displacement = 1984cc Block = ABA Deck Height = 236mm Rod Length = 159mm Stroke = 92.8mm ROD RATIO = 1.71 Bore = 82.5mm Compression Height = 30.6mm Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm Displacement = 1984cc TDI CRANK Block = ABA Rod Length = 159mm Stroke = 95.5 ROD RATIO = 1.67 Bore = 83.5mm Compression Height = 29.25mm Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm Displacement = 2091cc ABA CRANK Block = ABA Rod Length = 159mm Stroke = 92.8mm ROD RATIO = 1.71 Bore = 83.5mm Compression Height = 30.6mm Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm Displacement = 2032cc AEB 1.8T CRANK Block = ABA Rod Length = 159mm Stroke = 86.4mm (AEB Crank) ROD RATIO = 1.84 Bore = 83.5mm Compression Height = 33.8mm Wrist Pin Diameter = Whatever Piston you choose Displacement = 1892cc |
For those of you that have hybrid parts for sale.Feel free to post them in here but please follow the rules.
Modified by Issam Abed at 10:25 PM 7-15-2009