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Stubborn P0441 code

114K views 43 replies 9 participants last post by  sebasEuRo 
#1 ·
I've been troubleshooting this code for a while now with no luck. So far I've replaced the gas cap, N80 valve, the new updated hose for the N80 valve and even the carbon canister. No matter what the code has always come back.

I've ran Basic settings 70 with vagcom and ran the evap test and it fails when it gets to 66.8%. Don't know what these numbers are telling me though. Anybody know?

In another forum somebody mention checking the double check valve (in red below) with a vacuum. I was not able to pull a vacuum on it. I don't know what its suppose to do. This double check valve is to the left of the N80 valve



Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 B HW: 1K0 907 115 B
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040
Software Coding: 0403010A18070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 65728 1018 854933
VCID: 254B9B83ECFA27B
1 Fault Found:

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 205092 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 19:41:35

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 742 /min
Load: 20.8 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 81.0°C
Temperature: 18.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V


Readiness: 0000 0000
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I've been troubleshooting this code for a while now with no luck. So far I've replaced the gas cap, N80 valve, the new updated hose for the N80 valve and even the carbon canister. No matter what the code has always come back.

I've ran Basic settings 70 with vagcom and ran the evap test and it fails when it gets to 66.8%. Don't know what these numbers are telling me though. Anybody know?

In another forum somebody mention checking the double check valve (in red below) with a vacuum. I was not able to pull a vacuum on it. I don't know what its suppose to do. This double check valve is to the left of the N80 valve



Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 B HW: 1K0 907 115 B
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040
Software Coding: 0403010A18070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 65728 1018 854933
VCID: 254B9B83ECFA27B
1 Fault Found:

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 205092 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 19:41:35

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 742 /min
Load: 20.8 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 81.0°C
Temperature: 18.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V


Readiness: 0000 0000
Check the leak detection pump, lines, clamps and anything related for leaks. Hoses can become porous and cause a leak detection failure code P0441. The code is pointing at a small (0.020) leak detected. Most of the time it's the cap seal. Did you buy an OEM cap ?
 
#3 ·
Yes it was an OEM cap. I believe I'm on my third cap actually.

Does anyone know how the double check valve work. Should I be able to pull a vacuum on it from the hose that attaches to the left side of the N80 valve?

I've looked over the hoses but didn't see anything. I might have to figure out how to smoke them.

What about the Basic setting 70 test? Anyone have info on that?

Thanks, this is really getting annoying now
 
#5 ·
Yeah LOL

I've been told a lot to change the gas cap.

I've exercised the N80 valve recently and its relatively new also.

Any idea if I should be holding a vacuum on the hose that attaches to the left side of the N80. The one that goes to the double check valve or pressure limiting valve?
 
#16 · (Edited)
Nope you shouldn't be trying to hold a vacuum at the TV side.
Are you saying that the N80 valve shouldn't hold vacuum on the TV side when tested out of the car :confused:

Dr Diesel, I also believe you incorrectly stated to check the LDP in your first reply. This code indicates a problem between the canister and N80, not the LDP.

As I understand it, 16825 (P0441) is a problem between the canister and throttle body (including N80), tested in 070. So, a leak or blockage in the line from the canister to N80 would cause this code, as would a faulty N80.

16826 (P0442) indicates a leak involving LDP, or the tank side (including the gas cap), tested in 071.

The difference is easy to see when you watch the blocks while running the basic settings.

I have to agree with Dr Diesel on one general aspect though...smoke is instrumental in finding EVAP leaks, wherever they may be hiding. They can be very difficult to diagnose without a smoke machine.
 
#15 · (Edited)

Probable cause/possible symptoms also points to leak issue's in both All Data and Ross-Tech information as seen here.



16825/P0441/001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow

Possible Symptoms



  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes



  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80) faulty/jammed
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115) faulty/jammed
  • Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Sealing faulty
  • Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body leaky/blocked

Possible Solutions



  • Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Regulator Valve (N80)
    • Perform Output Test

  • Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (N115)
  • Check Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister
    • Perform Basic Setting

  • Check Pipes between Tank Breathing and Throttle Body

Special Notes



  • When found in the NAR 1.8T Audi A4 1.8T check TSB 24-08-78 or 2010268/3 or Pass-Thru equivalent TSB
  • When found in the NAR 1.8T VW Passat 1.8T check TSB 01-09-09 or 2005554 or Pass-Thru equivalent TSB
    • Note: The Passat 26E5 or "R5" recall includes the same software update

  • Make sure the quick release lines for the N80 valve and vacuum line to LDP are not crossed.
    • This can also make the engine hard to start after filling up the fuel tank.


Category: Fault Codes

They are looking for leaks, especially from the canister lines to the evap-purge valve N80.
I bet it's a leak near the canister and only a smoke machine will find it
;)
 
#18 · (Edited)
Why "Dr. D.:) " , the information you site, and everyone posts is incorrect in regards to this.

How many times do I have to say that the repair manual is WRONG!

Thats the factory OE manual and as for All Data you might as well have NO DATA!

Smoke is for morons which cant read a gage, or a book proper for visual like picture books for kindergärtners! :p To be fair, there are some uses for smoke, and here its just plain stupid with two vacuum hoses. OH BOY! where are those razor blades?

I think its time RT teaches a EVAP and LDP advanced readiness test class.
This one will cost big bucks though!

On the bench Brian YES with the noid active NO.
There should be no vacuum held between the TV and the valve itself as this would indicate FOD.

Uhh Hmm! That's your information you provided in your link in your post #13 :wave:
 
#20 ·
Respectfully No! Dr. Dummkopf...... FAIL:facepalm:

What I'm saying is, what your saying, and the repair information is wrong.

No where in that repair information, does it say small leak.

You of course want to antagonize me, rather then try to learn.

Good for you!
Poster if interested in real technical information contact me via the PM.
I'm done here today, its dinner time.

P.S. Smoke vs a gage I will take a mighty vac gage any-day.
You sir need visuals, I guess.
Well. I can't verify your claim of information accuracy, so until that time it's the information I use.
If it wasn't correct, why would Ross-Tech have it posted in the WiKi ????

Yes, I like the visual smoke test because it shows the leak. Yes, I could use the vacuum decay test to verify the leak, but you still haven't located it. Smoke shows you where it's at, right now. It's verified while testing. I use my smoke machine for many other tests too. It's a quick way to find intake leaks and pirate air behind the MAF. Quick, accurate and simple. I like the KISS method when available. If you choose to remain a Dummkoff parts changer, that's your prerogative. Good luck :facepalm:
 
#22 · (Edited)
Actually I like to isolate a zone with a vacuum gage and then just remove and replace the zone for inspection.
Further I will tell you why I don't like smoke. It's not under PSI or vacuum.

So what I do is pressurize the zone with air and intake spray then use a halogen AC detector to find small leaks.
Large leaks if you cant find them needing smoke or carb cleaner you have to be an idiot.

It is very rare I replace anything. Most of the time I do a repair with a double braided vacuum line.

Your just assuming I change parts. This is something I hate to do. I am more about finding the problem and conducting functional tests, vs wasting money on garbage costly equipment such as a smoke machine or AVR.

Running tests in VCDS to verify what I said costs nothing but time.

I told you how to run the test to prove it to yourself.

Take a gas cap off and run the 070 test you will see it will pass without it. Then maybe the light bulb will go on in your head.

Smoke is under pressure.
I like to use it for that exact reason. When going into a repair facility to find and fix problems, it's a quick and handy money making tool. I have no idea what someone else has done to most of the problem child's, I get stuck with. Having a quick and simple diagnostic tool at my disposal makes perfect sense for me. If you're removing and isolating sections of the Evap system to verify if it leaks or not, you're wasting time and burning hours that could have been spent making money. If you're using carb spray to find a leak, you're a step away from major liability issue's.

Having diagnostic tools and knowing how to use them to save time and money makes perfect sense, even if you don't agree with it. As long as you keep it civil and refrain from the name calling or trying put others down for the tools they use to simplify diagnostic, we might actually be able to learn form one another. You don't know everything there is to know about automotive repair, so just chill out and allow others to have and express their opinions and knowledge without being rude, arrogant and ignorant, just because your don't agree with it. This is a public forum with hundreds of user's that have different idea's and opinions, just like you. They don't act like a horse's behind with rudeness and ignorance, so why do you find the need to act like you know everything and everyone else is just stupid. That's as STUPID as STUPID get's.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I'll most definitely remember to use that strategy the next time I run across and Evap issue, along with my smoke machine ;)
 
#24 ·
I never said you weren't entitled to your opinion. Your the DR. How more arrogant do you get with that title.

Are you really a doctor?:)

You just mix up the items of the evap system because your so well versed, I can only guess.:p

I diagnose an evap LDP, or N80 breather issue in about 10 minutes, without the cost of a smoke machine, is what I'm saying.

Smoke in many cases cant get passed check valves, or additional N series noids. This is why it is superior to isolate zones with a might vac, while using output diagnostic test modes, or basic setting tests to be initiated. Smoke doesn't find stuck valves, it just finds an open hole for your visual experience.

To each his own, but you should know how the system works, before recommending a part such as 3 gas caps, or 3 LDP pumps like a recent dealer. Oh yeah, guess what? The smoke didn't help them, because they were to busy smoking the pipe.

You are the one who is being short sighted. Put on your glasses.:thumbup:
See! That was much better. My screen name isn't related to who I am or what I do. It was my diesel truck platform "DR" back in 1996, so I used it as a log in name and it stuck.
I'm sure you are very knowledgeable and have tried and true diagnostic strategy methods that work very excellent. I'm new to the Euro stuff and always willing to learn from others. You sound a like someone that knows a lot. It's just difficult to deal with your online personality, or should I say lack of. Don't take it the wrong way. I'm not trying to say your wrong or don't know what you're talking about. Don't jump on the defensive right out of the gate. I respect what you say as far as automotive information, but not the disrespectful manner you find necessary to use towards other people. Take the EGO down a few notches and you'll find it's a better way to communicate with others. We can stay on topic and avoid the ignorance.

Like I said. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I appreciate your input. I enjoy learning something new.
THANKS.
 
#27 ·
Very nice argument guys! Glad to see it’s settled with everyone on good terms!

Dr. you’re alright not many hold a respectable argument with Jack and learn something in the end. They usually blow a head gasket and learn nothing.

Jack is one of the best on this forum and puts a lot of time in the forum. His people skills need some work but this is not a personality contest.

What matters here is VAG problems and solving them. I learned a lot from this post and so will others. I have no idea where the original posted went or what he did about his problem? But I enjoyed reading it all and I LMAO at times.

I also agree knowledge is power! Good argument Guys!

Good Luck
 
#30 ·
Are those under Basic Settings?

I've ran the 070 test and it fails at 66.8%

I've exercised the N80 valve and it seems to be functioning and not sticking. It holds a vacuum too. It is kind of new.

I don't know what 01-04-070 is? Didn't see any test under Basic Settings 001 or 004

Thanks
 
#32 ·
ok, yeah that's the one I've ran plenty of times and it fails when it reaches 66.8%

Interesting that you say it will fail if the throttle body is dirty. Would this code come up if the intake valves were caked up. My car has 130k miles and they are bad. I'm getting like 26mpg lately. I'm ready to clean them actually. I need to take a look at the throttle body as well.

I don't know what else it could be.

You don' think its the pressure limiting valve after the n80 valve?
 
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