All I did was this:

1. Trace the path of the top (actuator) hose from the DV. It goes to a metal tube that runs along the block, then to another rubber hose, then underneath the intake manifold to the N249.

2. Remove the hose that connects the tube to the N249, at the side closer to the N249. There is a reusable clamp, just pinch it with pliers and pull the tube off.

3. Cap the tube to the N249 with a rubber hose cap (available at Auotzone, etc.) and clamp it on there with a hose clamp.

4. Tapinto the FPR vacuum/boost line, which is RIGHT NEXT to the hose you just disconnected. It's the thinner braided hose that goes to the FPR.

5. Using a 3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" T fitting, connect the newly disconnected N249 hose to the T.

Voila. Instant, clean bypass. Works like a charm, looks stock.

1. 2 hose clamps
2. 3/16" T fitting (plastic works fine)
3. 5/16" rubber cap

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I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.

Quote, originally posted by enginerd »

I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.

buy my stuff!!!

This doesn't actually bypass the N249 - the electronic valve still mediates what the DV sees. It helps because the valve can no longer introduce vacuum to the mix.

What I did is plug the DV directly into the intake manifold. The DV now sees exactly what is in the manifold, there's nothing inbetween.

There may not be any practical difference - but I like knowing that the DV actuation is directly from the manifold.

Try bypassing the N249 as I suggested. It may help, it may not, but it's a very cheap mod that you should do regardless.

I did this and now have severe fluttering of my hyperboost DV. Cleaned and lubed it and that didn't help. I believe that the n249 also serves to assist in slamming the DV open as fast as possible via the extra vac in the black canister. I was not having any problems with the N249 opening the DV when I didn't want it to so I may be putting the canister back on and reconnecting everthing in a stock manner.

Quote, originally posted by SAMMICHES »

Hi! My name is Sean, and I'm str8 Ghetto!!!

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/690474

The problem here is your hyperboost DV and too stiff of a spring. With a Forge valve, mine does the same thing. With the stock valve it works like a champ.

Have you tried reversing your DV?

Quote, originally posted by SAMMICHES »

Hi! My name is Sean, and I'm str8 Ghetto!!!

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/690474

I have an older Forge 006 valve (it's almost 4 years old) and it works fine with the bypassed setup. Zero flutter. I'm holding 25-27psi in the lower rpms, 20psi at 5K, using an MBC.

If you had better performance with the N249/vac cannister then by all means go back to using it. Results are what matter. One thing that's nice about the setup I suggest is that it is easily reversible. The only "permanent" change is cutting the fpr line, and that's easily fixed with a plug on the T or a plastic hose connector.

Main purpose is to reduce flutter and resulting jerky boost at partial throttle, between 0 and 5psi of boost, where the N249 seems to get confused and can make your throttle very sensitive and jerky. It worked well for me.

Spread The O&A Virus Spreading the Tip Love CANCER SUCKS

if you are talking from the intake minifold, its the same vaccum/boost source, so it doesn't matter...

but i would use the FPR line.

Spread The O&A Virus Spreading the Tip Love CANCER SUCKS

However, I think I'm still getting a DV flutter. I have the 710N valve and it sounds like the DV is opening and closing rapidly at partial throttle while it hisses. Ssss-sss-ss-ss-sssss-sss-sss! Lol! Would a MBC help or maybe an adjustable DV (GReddy Type S) so that I can play with the settings and try to adjust it?

By the way, I tee'd into the fpr line. It was a b*tch to get to! 5 minute job? Yeah... okay.

Modified by turbotazzy at 4:40 PM 5-8-2004

Old weak dyno
- BLIM -

Quote, originally posted by turbotazzy »

By the way, I tee'd into the fpr line. It was a b*tch to get to! 5 minute job? Yeah... okay.

I'm sorry, but a one-armed ape with downs syndrome and a butter knife could do this in 5 minutes. The line is practically staring you in the face if you are looking down at the point where you detach the hose between the DV and the N249.

The 3/16" T fitting is tight, but tight is good. It means it won't come loose, even if you don't use clamps on it.

Modified by dbrowne1 at 12:45 PM 5-12-2004

P.S. I typed this with one hand, using my butter knife.

Just because it's staring me right in the face doesn't mean it's easy to work with. It took 1 minute to cut the line and put the tee on one end of the hose but to put the other tee on was a pain to me. You can't tell me you can put two hands in there without a problem. The fpr line is very short!

My setup doesn't look like this:

http://www.aurealanrealms.org/~tjboyer/PIPING.jpg

If it did, it would be much easier... but whatever. I'm 90% surge-free now. Thanks for the write-up. No thanks for the sarcasm.

Well, you're welcome for the writeup. That's why I put it here.

Please note that NOWHERE in the writeup did I say that is was a "five minute job," a term that you injected and which you sarcastically commented upon in your entirely unnecessary and unsolicited response. Also note that I have not one, but TWO 3/16" T fittings in my "short" fpr line. That's probably because it isn't really that short at all.

Question: How do I stop the lurching I get when I let off the throttle slowly? Is this a DV issue? This doesn't happen when I let off quickly. I've read that the DV opens when you're on boost and closes when you let off. I have the 710N valve so it's non-adjustable. Would an adjustable DV help resolve this issue? I thought bypassing the N249 would help but it hasn't.

Thanks in advance.

It is meant to solve a specific issue (partial throttle sensitivity) which is not usually an issue in stock cars.