First, airbox mods. Many people claim that cutting holes in your airbox will suck hot enging air. I agree, if the
only hole you cut is toward the engine. In my old 86 Scirocco, i placed a temp sensor from a truck stop into my
intake stream, trying to build the best CIS intake. It worked. Under throttle, and acceleration, your engine will
NOT suck hot air as drastically as everyone likes to point out. At idle for example, on a 70 degree day, the intake
air temp would rise to about 90 or so. Under acceleration, it would drop back to 70, with no change up or down if
you revved your motor while sitting still.

The secong, for digi II owners is to removed the snorkel in your air box to allow more air to come in. It works,
kinda. It will give you better throttle response and a cool tone (garggle, garggle) but really doesn't do much for
HP. I actually removed my air box all together, put an adapter plate on and ran with an 11" K&N conical. With all
air flow plates removed, i see no difference in performance after heat up, and I gained a couple of ponies.

Next digi II owners, crack open the AFM on the top of your air box, and release the spring tension by 3 clicks, you
will see better throttle response, and quicker acceleration.

If you are driving a digi II car without a PF engine code, next time you get to a junk yard and find one, grab the
camshaft, and the dual downpipe. You will see results. From 5 hp to 7 HP. It is well worth it.

MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and fit.

Digi II owners, grab thse go fast parts if you can find them. Coraddo or Turbo coupe injestors, porsche 944s FPR,
BMW 535i AFM (the black box) Coraddo fuel rail. With and air/fuel gauge, you can adjust the system to run a little
rich for more power.

Now that we have covered the easy to find parts, and accessories, we can dive a little deeper into the fine tuning of a VW.

First of all, digi II owners. There was a factory drivability fix availible. You might be able to locate it in a
yard. It is a additional plug that goes between the factory plug and the air flow meter. With a cheap chip will fix
a little bit of the problems accociated with digi II.

CIS owners, buy a couple of throttle body couplers, and some 3" PVC. Paint the PVC whatever color you want, and find
the adapter to fit it right, and join the air box and throttle body with the PVC. This will not add torque, or any
real noticable hp gains, but you will see throttle response increase, and maybe get 1 or 2 at the top end.

Windage trays are an important part of the tuning process. These work by keeping oil from spalshing up on to a
moving crankshaft, causing parasitic loss. A windage tray will have the same effect of a lightweight pulley. You can
find factory ones in GTIs, and GLI's, or crossflow motors.

Advancing your ignition timing manually can provide great gains. With the apropriate ignition modifications, like
hotter coil, performance wires, and the right plugs for the job, you can make gains as high as 5 to 7 hp. Hotter
coils and performance wires won't add power, but with the appropriate timing, can really make the difference.

The Tornado Fuel Saver will add power!!!!!!!! The tornado works on the priciple that it will pull air into the
motor, kinda like adding a very small turbo. At top end, it will add about 1 to 2 psi. This would be great for CIS
cars, but digi II owners can run into small problems without the other modifications listed above. It will add
power.

Brakes. upgrading your brakes is quite easy. For those of you with solid rotors, you can upgrade to vented rotors.
Just buy the rotors and the pads from a car that has them . 9.4" vented rotors come on the 86 GTI. The 86 GTI also
came with rear disk brakes. If you can locate one in the yard, pull the rear axle, and e-brake cables. If the master
cylinder is there, take it as well, with the proportioning valves... It's that easy.

The U.S. spec GTI cam, came in the PF, RD, and RV motors. It provides .4" of lift, over the .393: of the other cams.
I know it sounds like not much, but the inches of lift is one way to measure a cam. Duration at .05" of lift is 214
degrees to the olders 210/209 for the intake/exhaust. That is a difference. The lobe center remains the same at 110
degrees. The real interesting part is this. At .050" of lift, the GTI (or "g" cam) has the intake valve open at
-2.8* BTDC, as opposed to -5.6* BTDC for the older cam. The GTI cam has the part number "026 109 101 G" and the
older cam has the part number "026 109 101 A" To give you an Idea about how much this cam does infact make a
difference... It has more lift and duration than the 1.7 and 1.8 solid lifter cam!!!!!!!!! Mmmmm, BEEFY!

The AFM loosening trick is done by removing the black cover, lossening the 7mm bolt that keeps the metal wire thing
in place (you will understand when you open it up). Turn the black gear counter clockwise 3 clicks, and tighten the
bolt down. It is really easy.

The 8v GLI dual downpipe is actually smaller than the Digi II GTI dual downpipe, and is an older design. The same
downpipe is used on the 16v, and corrado G60, but the manifolds are a little different on the 16v. If you can find a
dual from a 90-92 GTI digi II 8v, with manifold and cat, from someone parting it out, buy it. The cat is the 60x55mm
cat... the largest and best flowing cat for any factory MK2.

Digi II owners... I have been researching alot about the way our fuel injection systems work. It's that damn blue
coolant temperature sensor that messes up our day. Well, no you have a solution. To get the best out of your
ignition timing, replace your thermostat and fan switch with lower temperature ones, as well as add Redline's WATER
WETTER to your mix. Your coolant will drop about 20 degrees, and the car will run better, and have more power
because the coolant temperature sensor will feel colder coolant.

Adding the coolant modifications to your list of to do's is a must when intalling an adustable cam gear. When
tweeking your cam timing, the car will run hotter, or cooler, depending on the setting. 3 degrees, might not be all
that much in the world of advancing, but you will notice tremendous temperature increases. I ran a hydro head 86
scirocco, with out a thermostat in the middle of winter, and the car would reach operating temperature with only 5
degrees advanced!!!! If you think about it... I had constant coolant circulation, in 40 degree wheather, and a
fridged air moving across the rad at all times. Be sure to mod your coolant system to accept the benifits of
advancing your cam timing.

Speaking of cam gears, they work in the manner of shifting your power band around. You get to fine tune the car to
your driving privledges. If you cruise town more than the high way, you can advance your cam timing, to pull the
power band lower, making your peak torque curve come sooner. The oppposite goes for retarding your timing. This
shifts the torque and horsepower higher, for more at faster revs. I noticed with 3 degrees retarded on a slightly
modified euro spec rocco, that I had a smooth low end, but it really started to kick in at around 4 grand. I also
messed with advancing it, and I was happy at 3 degrees advanced. With out a cam, I couldn't fully utilize the gears
power.

Lightening the load on your motor will have the same benifits as adding horsepower. Most companies make lightweight
pullys for every honda under the sun. MK2 owners are not so lucky. You can do a little by buying a light weight
Cam/Intermediate sprocket. If you plan to run with out an adjustable cam gear, you should buy two. The sprocket that
drives you distributer and the cam sprocet are the same!!!! Replace both, and get a lightweight fly wheel, and your
motor will rev quicker, and be alot more responsive. The downside to this is the idle will suffer a little bit, but
the trade off is worth it.

Electrical power is another important over looked part of the car. Most feel a Walmart battery and crusty cables
will work fine as long as the car starts. In the scirocco, I ran upgraded Alternator to battery, battery to starter,
and battery to ground wires, using 4 gauge wire, and gold terminals. I had better light output, no dimming, and
enough juice do run the car, head lights and high beeams with 100w fogs, full stereo, heat, and wipers, as well as
the power windows when I wanted a smoke... Never a dull, dim moment. I also used an optima deep cycle battery. I was
never left stranded. Just piece of mind.

For everyone that wants a performance exhuast, but can't buy an over priced unit from TT or Neuspeed, you can help
get your car to breath better with a few tricks. First and foremost... Our engines were designed to have back
pressure on the exhaust stream. You WILL see about 5 HP if you empty the cat, but you will see a loss in torque. Get
the dual outlet manifold as mentioned above, leave your cat alone, and look further back. Alot of Jettas have a
bosel mid muffler, and a rear muffler. Buy a replacment resonator and either clamp or weld in the new one in place
of the mid muffler. The Resonators are most likly straight through like a glass pack, but help to keep the annoying
raspy sound come from your car. For a rear muffler replacment, you can go with anything your heart desires. Just
makesure you buy the size your exhast is. If you have a custom exhaust shop near you, ask them some questions, as
they might be able to fab you larger piping and mufflers cheaper than buying a bolt on kit from TT, or neuspeed.

You more thing before i go to sleep... This is the #1 thing to help everyone... If the car isn't running right,
don't modify it!!!!!!!! Getting your car running 100% will make a world of difference in performance and fuel
economy. If it's broke... FIX IT! If it's not... MODIFY IT!!!!

Well, kids... here it is. Installment 4 of the difinitive cheap A$$ build up. Today we will be talking about
suspension, engine mounts, lighting, things to look into when taking the motor apart to fix or replace things.
First off, suspension. Depending on your level of expertise with cars, you have different views about what to do to
your suspension. Lowering the car is the first thing people try to accomplish, to give the more aggressive stance.

How you lower it is another thing. Cutting your springs is the worst thing you could ever do. Springs on every car
and aftermarket company come with what is called a "spring rate". The spring rate is the amount of force (measured
in pounds per inch) that it takes to compress the spring. If your car has 135 lb/inch springs, it takes 135 lbs of
weight, or force to compress the spring 1 inch. Now that you have a basic understanding of spring rates... cutting
your coils shorten the amount of compression you have, while your spring rates stay the same. Cutting your coils can
lead to serious problems with bump steer, and bottoming out. Spend the extra money to do the suspension right. Look
at it this way. Do you want the only thing keeping you on the ground to be broken and rigged??? How safe do you feel
now? Along with springs, comes shock/struts. Replace these whenever you put performance springs on your car. Look
for shocks that will allow you to lower the car without any damage to the shock itself. KYB GT-2 work well, and are
inexpensive. Tokico Illumina are quite inexpensive and are adjustable. You can look to spend anywhere from $50 to
$100 per corner of the car, so buy what is in your budget.

If you are looking to just keep the ride hight factory, but want a little stiffer suspension, look for the factory
special models. 8v GTI's and GLI's have more firm suspension, however, 16v springs have a higher spring rate, and
the suspension from the factory was sportier. If you are looking for the way to go for next to nothing, find 16v
suspension.

Tires and wheels are next on the suspension list. Many people don't realize that the size of your side wall has alot
to do with ride comfort and performance handling. MK2's mostly came from the factory with 13's and 14's. Many want
larger wheels and smaller tires for the look, but you will also see major gains in handling. The largest factory
wheel found on the MK2's and 4 cylinder MK3's is 15". They came on the 2.0 liter 16v in BBS form. The G60 corrado
also has a set of 4 lug BBS wheels availible, as well as 15" steel wheels!!! These are cheap, light and durable. If
you are in the market for new shoes for the car, but can't buy new, check the classifieds. You will find plenty of
wheels, some with tires for sale in any price range, and almost any style.

The last part of the suspension we need to talk about is the fifth spring. Yes boys and girls, your car has a fifth
spring... the UNIBODY. Your vehicle was designed to flex and bend with suspension travel to make the ride more
comfortable. The down side to this when racing on the track, or carving your favorite mountain road is that this
gives an imprecise feel to the road. To help solve this, you can add stressbars. Stressbars tie the upper shock
mounts together to help eliminate chassis flex. There are even some bars availible for the front lower A-arms, that
keep them from pulling outward under hard acceleration. This helps to prevent tire wear, wheel hop, and most
importantly... aids in traction.

Engine mounts are a huge part of how your vehicle will perform. The factory mount do their jobs by keeping the motor
in the car, and making sure you don't hear it. This is great for grandma, but you want to go fast, amke noise, and
generally have fun with the car. Those old floppy engine mounts just won't do. There are several ways to help keep
the motor in it's place, and put more power to the ground. Some companies are selling solid front engine mounts.

While these are really good in putting the motor in it's place and keeping it there, they are a little expensive...
$100 or so. If you have owned your car for a while, and havn't replaced your mounts... 5 times out of 10, one is
bad. You can replace them as they go, or you can purchase new ones for around $25 each, and go to Lowes. There, look
for liquid polyurothane. Take the mounts home, and tape the bottoms tight, and both bolt holes. Take care of taping
all of them up before you mix the poly up. You will have about 20 minutes of working time to use the poly, so make
sure everythings is done before mixing. Let them dry for 24 hours, and cure. Replace each mount one at a time with
the poly filled ones. Now you made your own mounts, and can put all that extra power down.

Jump to lighting. Lighting is important for two reasons. One, it helps you see... but it also helps you to BE seen.
This will cost you nothing to do. When driving around, as the sun goes down... TURN ON YOUR LIGHTS!!!!!! You will
feel more secure knowing that everyone can see you. Now, for an upgrade. You know how you go to an auto parts store
and see the side repeaters that honda kids at to be more euro??? Well, you can use real euro parts, on your euro
car... and never have to act the fool. This mod is real easy if you have the old black square wolfsburg badges on
your fenders. In the junkyard, find an Audi 4000, and take the fender blinkers. Wire them up to blink with your turn
signals, and viola'!!! Side repeters, the real euro way. As for actual head lights, I have found the best street
legal DOT approved headlight out there for the public to buy is Sylvainia silverstars. These lights are bright, and
blue-ish white in color. They are awesome in my opinion. Fog lights are another lighting subject. Using fog lights
properly is another. I use mine at dusk when it is still too bright to use the headlights. Some people think I am
trying to be cool... whatever. I just like having a wall of light in front of me if I think that soccer mom with 12
kids in the excursion is too busy trying to fidget with make up than see my little GTI comming. Now I give her
something to pay attention to. Buying fog lights from most local retailers is kinda a waste of money. If you are
buying them to be seen, they are great, but if you are buying them for their intended purpose... don't even bother
looking at a set that is less than $50. The money is worth it.

I'll be back soon with more. We still have to talk about rebuilding, common problems that need fixed, things to do
while repairing a motor that is apart, and how to make the best of the modifications listed here.

Modified by rocco8v at 4:06 AM 9-11-2004

This will not add power, but if the head was warped, will make the car run smooth again. Another thing you can do
with a low compression ratio 8v is deck the head. By shaving off .03" of the head, you can raise the compression
ratio alot, while still being able to use pump gas. While the head is out, and at the machine shop, have it acid
dipped, pressure checked and steamed. Make sure all the seals are replaced, and if you have the extra cash, go for a
decent port and polish. These require a little more money and time to get done, but the gains are well worth the
time and money spent. Since the head is out of the car, now is the best time to replace the cam with an aftermarket
one, or get a three angle valve job at the machine shop. The options are pretty much endless, it just gets into some
money.

If you can;t afford the port and polish, or three angle valve job, and still want to beef the head up, grab your
dremmel and the port and polish kit from Wal-Mart. For 26 bucks, you can port match the intake and exhaust manifolds
to the head for better flow. You can also polish the combustion chamber to prevent carbon build up. While at the
auto parts store, get a VALVE LAPPING TOOL AND COMPOUND. This works to make the seal between the valves tighter by
using a gritty compound to sand away at the areas on the valves and the head. That should run you around $20. Now
that you are prepping the head for reinstallation, did you consider performance valve springs? Your factory springs
will never lose their tension, but the after market ones will help to keep the valves closed at high RPM, and
prevent coil bind. This is really nice when driving a CIS car. You can eliminate your rev limiter in a CIS car by
replacing the fuel pump relay, which is a 5 prong realy for the standard turn signal, 4 prog relay. This keeps the
car from telling the fuel pump to stop pumping, giving you the ability to rev it out a little more. I only recommend
this mod for people that have solid lifter heads, or have replaced the valve springs with aftermarket ones, as you
CAN DAMAGE THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR MOTOR BY YOU DOING THIS.

IF PROLONGED HIGH RPM DRIVING SITUATIONS OCCUR, YOU MAY INFACT THROW A CONNECTING ROD!!!!! PLEASE ONLY DO THIS IF

YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, OR DON'T CARE ABOUT THE WELL BEING OF YOUR MOTOR.

Now that the head is back on the car, the valves are lapped, and the intake and exhaust is port matched, make sure
you have an oil controller. If not, get one. It is the black plastic tray thasits above the cam. Trust me, your
intake air will thank you. Next, replace your valve cover gasket with the one piece rubber one. It is a little more
expensive, but worth the cost as this gasket will help prevent leaks.
Another way to help with performance is an external oil cooler.
If you have an annoying buzzing and flashing light in your cluster, and can't get it to stop, even after replacing
the sensors, and doing an oil change with the recommended oil, you can get rid of the noise forever. I would install
a pressure gauge before I remove this first. Take your cluster out of the car, and crack it open. Be sure not to
mess with the milage, as it is a federal offense. Behind the speedo in non CE II clusters is an electronic board.
Tear it out. It controlls the oil buzzer and light. If you do this with out installing a gauge... and your car blows
up... look in a mirror, I warned you.

While putting the motor back together it is a great time to replace all your belts, major hoses that look a little
under the wheather, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, oil and do a coolant flush. With the head off the car it is much
easier to check out everything in the motor compartment than it is to do it while the motor is together. My
philosophy is this. If you have to take the car apart now... do you want to next week as well??? If you can afford
the gaskets, and other parts, I would do the thermostat, water pump, gaskets and O-rings, clean everything up while
the motor is apart, and get your battery and alternator checked out, just incase. Also, while working on your car,
when the battery is out, DO NOT SET IT ON THE FLOOR IF IT IS CONCRETE. I don't know why, but the battery will drain
like you left your lights on, and will be dead before tomorrow. Put a block of wood under it.

The best cleaner/degreaser I have found... is PURPLE POWER. This stiff is great. It will take baked on stains off of
metal at full strength, yet is dilutable enough to was the grease from your clothes. A gallon runs like $6, and is
well worth it to clean the engine, and engine bay up... I mean "Hey, now is the time".

When you decide that you want to work on your car, and you feel confident that you can do it on your own, get a
manual for the car. The bently manual is by far the best, even though they are pricy... if you can't afford one (I
don't even own onw yet) you can get by with a Haynes manual. Remember to follow all torque specs and bulletens
listed as they are just tring to help. Always disconnect the negitive batter terminal brfore starting to work on the
car.

Making the most out of the modifications listed below is quite easy. Half the jobs listed here take less than 2
hours to complete, and will infact make serious gains, without spending serious money. Just remember this. One gain
leads to another. By putting a K&N filter in, you notice a gain. By chopping the air box, you notice more, by
opening the exhaust you notice more. They will all help eachother out. If you gain 5 hp from a cat back... and only
3 from the intake... you may see a 10hp gain total, as the modifications help eachother more than they do as a
standalone.

Feel free to email me about any questions you may have regarding any mods listed here or if you want to purchase
some performance parts. I discount all my parts to help the VW community, not my wallet. For example... TT sells an
aluminized cat back with a magnaflow muffler for around $300. I sell an Autotech cat back system, with a dynomax
muffler, including a lifetime warrenty on the muffler, and a 2 year warrenty on the tubing for prices starting at
$225 plus shipping. List on the $225 exhaust from me is $249 plus shipping. The same shipping rates apply when
ordering from me, or Autotech, as the part will come from the warehouse regardless who orders it. Performance cams
start at just $99 plus shipping. Where else can you find a 270 degree cam for $99, brand new, in box with lifetime
warrenty???????

On to drivetrain. There are a few things to consider when building a street car. Where will you be driving, what
conditions you might come across, and how often will you be driving. Another thing to consider is comfort. If your
car is only for nice days, and cool autumn nights, kinda like a play toy... comfort and drivability are some what
lower on the list than performance. If you plan on driving the car daily, these two things are higher on the list as
well as fuel economy. This is where your drivetrain comes in. I know what your saying, how does my transmission keep
me comfortable???

Well, in all honest, it is a matter of preference. The first thing I will talk about is the transmission. Too
sporty, and your car will be buzzy and loud on the highway. Too subtle, and your car accelerates like a slug in
canada. Most poeple take the trade off, and go for the best performance, but complain about the other. The sportiest
trans VW released was trans code 4K. This trans is all about acceleration. I have never owned on, but anyone who
knows will tell you, this trans can make stock VW's quick. The trade off is the buzzy nature on the highway, and
lower top speed (if that even comes into consideration). One of the longest ratio 5 speeds I know of, is the FF.

It's gearing is so long, that i raced a turtle in my old cabby, and lost. This trans if built to handle it, would be
great for boost. I was looking for a happy medium, and I think I found it... the AUG. This trans has great pick me
up if the right motor mods are done, and still has a happy highway cruising speed. (65mph at about 3200 rpm).

Another, more availible trans is the 9A. the gearing is very close, but second gear is different. The AUG has a
great country side cruising speed in forth gear (40 mph at 2k), but will allow the car to accelerate quickly when
the pedal is put down. Depending on what you are looking for, and what you want the trans to do, find the ratios
that are right for you.

Clutches are another big one. If you have the cash, you can find Sachs racing clutches... around a grand for
everything... but this isn't you... your reading the cheap A$$ build up. The place to start is in the pressure plate
(PP). You can order a 16v PP alone, and mate it to an 8v clutch for increased clamping force. This mod will allow
your 8v up to about 170 hp before slipping is an issue. The kit (PP, Disk, TO bearing, new plate and spring clamp)
should run in the ballpark of $129.95, and will be able to handle the abuse of racing, and daily driving. The nice
part is, pedal feel is not changed...

Speaking of pedal feel, 8v's came with 2 different types of clutch cables, the self adjusting, and manual adjusting.
Both are good for something, but if you plan on building your car for racing of any type, get the manual adjusting
cable. You have to set it up yourself, and then you can adjust your pedal feel. Once adjusted, the cables settings
will never change, unlike the self adjusting one. These work great, until they adjust too far, then it's too late.
When they go bad, so does your clutch.

Axles are another concern. There are 2 types of axles made by VW. 90mm, and 100mm. They are not measured by the
length, but by the flange that you bolt on to the trans. You cannot mix and match them with out swapping parts. When
shopping junk yards for your perfect trans, make sure you know the size of the axles, and weather or not you have
them, or need them. I know the G60 axles are the strongest in the MK2 chassis, and are 100mm flanges, making them a
perfect swap into any car with 100mm flanges.

Shift kits. These are important because this adds to driver comfort mentioned above. When you shorten the motion
required to shift from gear to gear, you have less required movement by the driver, and this mod can actually change
your seating position. Weighted shift rods increase the force thrown by shifting gears, causing a more positive
shift. Less effort is needed by the driver, and this actually helps you not to miss gears when shifting. You can
find weighted shift rods in MK3's. As long as the length is right, and the position of the mounting lines up, they
are a direct bolt in. If you have linkage that doesn't line up, you can make your own. Just wire tie, or hose clamp
a chunk of metal to your stock rod. You will feel a difference in throw. You can fab your own short shifter, but it
requires cutting, drilling and possibly welding (to do it right) I recommend this mod to be left to the pros, as
they normally only charge $70 to $100 for a kit, and it may even come with a shift weight.

Comfort is another issue we have been talking about here. For all the base model owners, find yourself the high
model ends interior, and install it in yours. I have done everything from power windows and door locks, to factory
sport seats and door panels. Your mood will change in your car when options you never had before are there. I had an
old 86 2 door golf... CIS, 8.6:1 compression ratio motor, bone stock, with an 87 GTI interior, power windows and
locks, cruise control, alarm, keyless entry, and a great stereo. The car was comfortable, and had a great smell
(factory pleather). I loved driving it because I was comfortable.

Speaking of comfort, changing your steering wheel can help alot. Just remember 10/89 and lower vehicles had a small
spline steering wheel, while 11/89 and newer have the big slpine. I know of no adapter to swap them, and you can't
do it unless you change your seering column.

Now for the exterior. Not much can be done using factory parts to make yours look better, but there is some hope.
Early MK2 owners and MK2 scirocco owners can fit Big Bumpers on the car. The scirocco requires trimmin, but if you
want to know what one looks like, email me, and I'll send you a photo. The easiest way to make the MK2 cars look
good is the big bumper treatment, with flares and skirts. If they are a little too hard to find, you can buy
aftermarket big bumpers, or go real euro and do euro bumpers. Scirocco owners, the easiest thing for you to do is
aquire a 16v scirocco body kit. My old one was put on, in flat black with black bumpers to mimic the european GTX.

Jetta owners, find GLI's and take the trunk lid for the wing. Golf owners can take the hatch from a GTI for the
upper spoiler that mounts throught the glass. In the aftermarket scene, one of the biggest, most outstanding thing
you can do is change your lighting, from one factory kit to another. Going from the aero (rectangle composite)
lights to a single round badgless grill makes a dub look mean. Find the lights you like and go for it. Upper grill
spoilers also add a touch of grit to the cars look, but in a tastful way. The aftermarket is full of comanies that
sell these kits, just shop around for the best price. One other thing you can do to make your car look different is
to use Big Doors. The actual size of the door is the same, but they got there name for having a larger window,
without a split. These make an older dub look newer, as they came on the later model MK2's.

Modified by rocco8v at 4:10 AM 9-11-2004

Modified by rocco8v at 4:04 PM 9-17-2004

Find a low milage 8.6:1 c/r block, or a set of G60 pistons and rods.

Get yourself a good deal on a G60 head and wiring, with sensors. The g60 had sodium filled valves, and the head, and
cam were designed for boost. Make sure to get the intake manifold and throttle body as well, as this will make the
easiest set up.

You now need a turbo, and manifold. You can get the manifold from various parts suppliers, EIP, 8vturbo.com,

aptuning.com... ebay. Look for killa on the tex, http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1005282 . He can get good

brand new turbos, cheap. I will either be buying mine from him, or getting the EIP do it yourself kit. You can also
get them from a junk yard. Saab 900's, Ford T-bird turbo coupes, Nissan 300zx's, whatever you can find that has a
T-3.

Corrado, metal headgasket. ARP Headsuts. Stage 4 G60 chip. Porsche 944 FPR, Blowoff valve, and intercooler. Plan
ahead where everything will bolt up and run.

Next get a set of either G60 or 1.8T plugs. Get a better set of plug wires, although not really neccesary. Look for
a manual, or electronic boost controller, and oil lines, and fittings for your turbo lube.

Bolt it together, check for boost leaks, and squeal some tire. I would start out at around 5 to 7 PSI and test the
system, before bumping it up to 13 to 17. You will be grinning from ear to ear.

The only thing i think I want to do different is...
I will buy the EIP starter kit for the turbo, manifold, lines, downpipe, and accesories. I will then next buy the

SDS standalone managment system, with fuel and spark. Use a 16V block, with G60 rods and pistons. G60 Head, worked.

Now I can program my own fuel curve, and ignition curve as well. I can also monitor everything going on with my
motor. I would also definatly suggest upgrading to 2.5 inch exhaust, with a high flow cat, and straight through
muffler. Turbo cars tend to be quieter that N/A cars... you wont wake up the neighbors.

As promised by me earlier... here are your trans codes...

020 Transmission Specifications Codes located at bottom of Bell Housing

CODE R&P 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Overall Flanges Switch Mount

2H 3.94 3,45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.59 90mm Large Stud
2Y 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 100mm Small Both*
4K 3.94 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.46 90mm Large Stud
4S 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Large Hole
4T 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 90mm Large Stud
4Y 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 90mm Large Stud
6G 3.65 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.59 90mm Large Stud
7A 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.80 90mm Large Stud
7D 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.25 0.91 0.71 2.80 90mm Large Stud
7G 3.65 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.32 90mm Large Stud
8A 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 90mm Large Stud
9A 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Large Hole
ACD 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Both*
ACH 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.96 90mm Large Hole
ACL 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Large Hole
ACN 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Large Hole
AEN 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Both*
AGB* 3.67 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.34 100mm Large Both*
AGS 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Small Hole
AMC 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.80 2.94 100mm Small Hole
AON 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole
AOP 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.96 100mm Small Hole
APW 3.67 3.45 1.75 1.37 0.97 0.85 3.20 90mm Large Hole
ASF 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole
ATH 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 2.75 100mm Small Hole
AUG 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.27 100mm Small Hole
AVX 4.25 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75 3.19 90mm Small Hole
AWY 3.94 3.45 1.94 1.44 1.13 0.89 3.51 100mm Small Hole
CHE 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.80 2.94 100mm Small Hole
FD 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud
FF 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.76 2.96 90mm Large Stud
FH 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud
FJ 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud
FK 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud
FM 3.89 3.45 2.12 1.44 1.13 0.91 3.54 90mm Small Stud
FN 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.71 2.76 90mm Large Stud
FO 3.89 3.45 1.94 1.29 0.97 0.76 2.96 90mm Small Stud

there are the 020 trans codes...

This Post is to update all Digi II owners on what chips are still availible for our injection systems. Alot of
speculation is flying around as to what is actually still out there. I recently made some phone calls, and talked to
some reps about what each company can do for us. Here is a difinitive list as of the date on this post...
Techtonics Tuning carries a DIGI II chip. Power increase is quoted at 4 to 5 hp, however TT claims there chip will
work in only 1/3 of the ECU's, Bosch being the brand of choice. The price of the chip... $110 plus shipping. The
chip also comes with a Knock Sensor spacer, available by itself from TT.

For those of you who can read German... here you go. This link is to a german tuning site, that claims to carry the
DIGI II chip as well. The gains look pretty substantial from the numbers I can read, however, it is unknown at this

time if the chip will actually work in our cars or not. Here is the link: http://www.powertec.at/datenbank/vw.html

VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the
problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195

SNS Tuning does infact carry 2 chips for the Digi II injection. One is designed for a cam, and the other without.
Not much is known what the chip does as a whole, however, each chip only runs you $39!!!! It may be a cheaper
alternative to some of the other chips on the market. Here is the link to their site: http://www.snstuning.com/

Last but not least, AMS. Anyone you have talked to that owns this chip, will tell you. It IS the difinitive chip for
DIGI II. This chip not only adds more fuel, but aggressive ignition maps as well. It completely ignores the coolant
temp sensor once warmed up, and drivability and power are better than ever. Your Rev limiter is raised to 7000 as
well. AMS however doesn't list this chip on their site, but it is STILL AVAILIBLE!!!!! Call AMS directly at
(310)-763-8000. Talk to the rep and make sure you have your ECU type and number handy. This chip will set you
back... $200 to $250.

There you have it. If you have anymore information on Digi II chips, please feel free to shoot me an IM, and I will
edit my post.

Now that I have covered turbo charging I wanted to give you Digi II owners some hope on the supercharger end. Bahn
Brenner will be releasing a twin screw kit for the 88 to 92 digi II injection. Exspect prices to start around
$2500, but add about 60% more horsepower.

As for tune up items. Always use a Bosch cap and rotor when tuning up your car. Not because the dealer wants you to,
but because they are the best. Brake pads are another wear item that you may have to swap from time to time. I'll
have numbers to back up my statments here in a day or so, but I'll post my opinions now, and back them up with facts
later. When replacing your pads, you can choose any type you wish, from mettalic, to semi's to ceramic. Ceramic pads
are Awesome. They give off very litte dust, if any at all and last a long time, though they are a little pricy.

Stick witn Mintex Red box pads. For around $50, you get the best from the street and racing world, all wrapped in
one box. The other thing is, the pads will probably outlast the rotors.

Well, I am back to bring you the next installment of the Cheap A$$ build up. Let me just say thins before I move on.
The reason behind writing this article was not to tell everyone how to tune their cars, nor was it the end all be
all guide, it is just a reference of information, I have gathered over the past 5 years while searching for the best
way to make my car perform. Using factory parts ensures reliability for the rigors of daily driving, while helping
your car to achive a level of performance that you may otherwise never had. Tonight I will be steering the guide in
a new direction. From Motor swaps, to hybrids, to aftermarket support. Even though these things cost alot more than
the regular trip to the salvage yard, these are processes that should be considered. Why spend countless hours
tuning your lowly 8v, when you can swap in a 16v, and achive instant power??? Why buy aftermarket heads, and cams,
and headers, and a ton of parts, when for a few hundred more dollars, you can have a VR6, and really make some
power??? I'll tell you why. It's for the love. The love of the VW roots. the 8v is the original. The GTI came with
an 8v, and was the original pocket rocket. Back then honda's couldn't keep up. The 8v is a perfect balence of torque
and horsepower, especailly in the smaller cars. I think the 2.0 liter crossflow is a motor good for swapping, but in
the MK3 and MK4, it is the base model motor that leaves much to be desired. Don't get me wrong, these motors can
make power... and lots of it. But the old saying falls into this motors category... "speed costs money... how fast
do you want to go?"

When embarking on a trip to the yard, at least for me, idea's pop into my head. Will an Audi 5000 turbo motor bolt
in? Can I fit a 2.0 liter 16v in my budget? Should I try this, or that? Everything changes when I open my wallet,
but the dream is still there. That brings us to MOTOR SWAPS. A swap is a great thing, if you have the shop to do it
in, the motor waiting, and all the bugs have been worked out, and everything bolts in. The problem is, that this
never happens. If you are looking to do a motor swap, depending on the swap, allow the correct amount of time to get
it done, and done right. You can swap a 16v into a digi II car, and use the digi II injection system, but your rev
limiter stays at 6500, just when things get fun. You can swap in a VR6, but that requires much more work than
pulling the old motor out, and installing the new one. Even a G60 is a hard task to undertake, especially with the
modifications you must do to get the clutch to work. All and all, motor swaps can be the way to go to fix your power
issues, if the money and time is right. The easiest way to get more juice outta your 8v is to put an ABA block in.

Swapping in an ABA block is almost as easy as pulling yours out, and putting it back in. There are somethings to
take into consideration when doing this. The distributer is different, and must be adapted.The ABA is 16.5mm taller
than the regular 1.8 liter block, so you may need a new downpipe, or a spacer. The accesories are driven off of a
serpentine belt, rather than multiple V-belts. If you can get all the ABA accesories, and adapt them to fit, and
work, you can even keep your AC. The point is it is very doable, and can even be finished in a weekend for the
mildly skilled person. Do your research, and take the time to do it right. Here is what TT says about the swap. They
mention the breather block off plate as well. Take a look:

Engine Swap Notes for the 2.0 ABA Engine.
1. If you are installing the engine in a A1 or A2 Chassis you will find it easier to use the ABA shortblock rather
than the complete engine.

2. When you buy the "short block" (basic engine w/o cylinder head) insist on getting the distributor. You will need
the distributor drive gear (located on the bottom of the distributor). You will also will need to buy a TT
distributor adaptor ring. This will allow the installation of your original distributor in the ABA block.

3. If you are installing the engine in an A2 chassis (‘85-’92) get the ABA exhaust manifold and downpipe. You need
the A3 downpipe or a TT downpipe in order to accomodate the taller block.Your original downpipe will interfere with the chassis. The A2 & A3 dual outlet manifold will not work on the A1
chassis cars.

4. If you are installing the engine in an A1 chassis (‘75-’84 Rabbit, ‘75-’88 Scirocco, ‘80-’84 Jetta, ‘80-’94
Cabriolet, and ‘80-’83 Rabbit Pickup) you may need a dual outlet manifold unless your car allready has one. They
will be standard on the ‘75-’81 models. You will also need a TT downpipe made for the "tall block" engine. They are
available in cat or non-cat configurations.

5. The ABA engine comes with a breather on the front of the block and the A1 and A2 cars are set up for a breather
outlet in the valve cover. You will need a TT block off plate kit to solve the problem. The TT kit includes all you
need to plug the holes for the breather and crankshaft position sensor. The CNC macnined plate is drilled & tapped
for mounting the warm up regulator (used on the early A1 & A2 cars).

6. The headgasket you need to use when installing a 1.8 liter head on an ABA block is TT’s part number 198.137. Do
not use the 1.8 or the 2.0 ABA headgasket.

7. The ABA engine has 10-1 compression ratio and a knock sensor ignition system should be used. If your car wasn’t
originally equipped with a knock sensor you can retrofit one from a ‘85-’87 GTI or GLI that uses CIS injection. You
can lower the compression by machining the dish in the piston crown to a larger size. If you drop the compression
ratio to 9.2-1 you can run w/o a knock sensor.
On to the aftermarket. Things to consider when going this route:
Can I fit these parts in my budget?
What will it do for me?
Is there a warrenty on this?

All these things and many more should be addressed. If the money is right, and so is the warrenty... then get what
is right for you. The most common aftermarket parts people buy is exhaust, intake, chip, cam, header, clutch, and
pulleys. While, I believe these things are good, not all are availible for you. MK2 owners can't get underdrive
pulley for the 1.8 liter 8v, but you can get the camshaft and intermediate sprockets replaced with light weight
ones. A cam is a great investment, but should also be bought with caution. Too big, and you will need other parts
replaced to use it, and too small..."What was the point?". Keep in mind a cam will work best with intake mods and
exhaust, as well as cylinder head porting and polishing. When looking into purchasing parts, always ask questions.

Learn what you are buying and what it will do for you. If you don't know... ask. If your not told, don't assume. And
most importantly, be spacific. If you are not, you could buy the wrong part, find this out after installing it, only to be unable to return it later.

I mentioned before about "the perfect 8v" and I thought I would let everyone in on the frankenstein motor combo that

might get you thinking. Here it is:
G60 Head
G60 block
Digi II pistons and rods
16v crankshaft

using all stock parts... digi II dual outlet manifold for the exhaust, and the newer style intake manifold. Replace
the G60 cam with a factory "G" cam mentioned above. Now you have the best flowing head, 10:1 C/R, forged crank with
oil squirters, stock 8v. Running on digi II you could chip it with the AMS chip, and raise the compression a little
with a group A headgasket. This should yeild 10.6:1 C/R, and be a demon...

First, upgrading your brakes can be quite easy and very benificial. I already listed the vented rotors install, but
the rear disk brake conversion is easy as well. I grabbed the complete axle and ebrake cables, as I figured it would
be easier. If you plan to not grab the axle, get everything down to the stub axles. Make sure you take the ebrake
cables as they are not interchangable. Also, grab the master cylinder and proportioning valves. If you don't trust
these parts from the yard, you can order the new master cylinder from the auto parts store. Another interesting
thing about master cylinders is that Audi 4000 MC are about half the weight of the VW, and flow better. I am tired,

so I'll clean this post up later.

VW factory wheels leave alot to be desired in most cases. For better performance, and acceleration, lighter wheels
should be considered. The VW Teardrop wheels are the softest wheels I have ever seen. I have seen butter with more
integrity than these wheels. They are also the heaviest VW made at the time. Weighing in at over 14 pounds each, you
can do better. If you own these wheels, look around in the classifieds for lighter wheels to get better
acceleration, or go to the yard, and find a matched set of lighter alloys.

I'll be back with more info as soon as I get to it. I'll try and make the next update larger, and more informative.

If you have read this entire thing, feel free to post your feelings on it so far, as I will be editing it and proof
reading it, and reposting this as one complete post. Let me know what you think. If you have any questions, please
post them, and I'll try and help out.

Modified by rocco8v at 4:16 AM 9-11-2004

Bring the 70's and 80's back to life.

Quote, originally posted by KevincredibleVR6 »

An 8v is like makin' love to a women with ashma, she's always good to go, but if ya stick it to her too hard she starts wheeezin.

1992 Volkswagen Jetta Standard 1.8L 8v Digifast

think you mean rubber.. but thats a good writeup.. thanks a lot.. I'm sure I'll be contacting you to get some parts

Jerry

Quote, originally posted by VRBTCHCAR »

Cheap people rock 8vs

Parts 4 Sale
GSXR Throttlebodies - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3208059
Rear Prop Valve - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3209699

me

"You are what you do, not what you say" - Fortune Cookie

"It would take a cross-wired star trek replicator, if not an act of God, to make a left-hand-drive Skyline GT-R for the U.S." - Don Schroeder

"GET OUT! THE COWS ARE GOING TO KILL US!" - Texas cabbie

MY DIGI2 16V! FAQ!

Im a firm believer that the TT unit is the best price for what you get in terms of aftermarket exhaust and quality.

That said, GREAT writeup!!!

may want to organize it a little more for CIS and DIGI II cars, you seem to 'flip flop' between the two often

As for the digi II drivability fix here is your part number: 025 906 302A

When I talked to a dealer, they said that for most 92 GTI owners it was in place from the factory, as a fix for the problems digi II has. I asked about availibility, but had to leave abruptly, and never found out. Call your local dealer and find out what they have to say.

I run a "cowl induction" setup on my A1 diesel Jetta. At 70mph, I get about 3 to 4 inches of water higher intake manifold pressure with the cowl induction setup than with the stock intake plumbing. That's 0.11 PSI to 0.14 PSI. There's no way you get even 0.5PSI from an unpowered device. And with the stock intake plumbing, you are very unlikey to see more than 10% of the gain I get by taking air from a very "high pressure" area at the base of the windshield. There's no way you'll get 1 to 2 psi of "boost" without a powered high volume compressor of some kind (supercharger, turbocharger or maybe a very high flow fan or blower device).

The "Amazing Tornado Fuel Saver" is snake oil. I know people who have tested a couple of these devices on a couple of different cars. They do almost nothing. Your acceleration might be slightly better because your wallet will be a little lighter, but that's about it.

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »

Brakes. upgrading your brakes is quite easy. For those of you with solid rotors, you can upgrade to vented rotors. Just buy the rotors and the pads from a car that has them . 9.4" vented rotors come on the 86 GTI. The 86 GTI also came with rear disk brakes. If you can locate one in the yard, pull the rear axle, and e-brake cables. If the master cylinder is there, take it as well, with the proportioning valves... It's that easy.

The early A2 GTI's did have rear disc brakes, and they are good donors for a disc brake swap. But they used a load sensing pressure regulator at the rear suspension, not the inline proportioning valves. If you get the rear discs for an A2 car, use the disc brake specific load sensing regulator. I generally don't recomend rear discs for an A1 car. If you must do rear discs on an A1 car, the cheaper and more flexible alternative is to use the disc brake specific A2 load sensing regulator. Some fabrication is required to mount that regulator on an A1 car, but it's far more flexible than the 16V $cirocco prop valves.

If you swap rear discs onto your car, get the rear stabilizer bar (part of the rear beam on A2 cars) and the rear springs from the donor. The rear disc brake setup is 6 1/2 pound per wheel heavier. That's unsprung weight and it will have a negative affect on handling. Stiffer springs and stiffer stabilizer bars help to control the extra weight and minimize the handling penalty of the rear disc brakes.

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »

The U.S. spec GTI cam, came in the PF, RD, and RV motors. It provides .4" of lift, over the .393: of the other cams. I know it sounds like not much, but the inches of lift is one way to measure a cam. Duration at .05" of lift is 214 degrees to the olders 210/209 for the intake/exhaust. That is a difference. The lobe center remains the same at 110 degrees. The real interesting part is this. At .050" of lift, the GTI (or "g" cam) has the intake valve open at -2.8* BTDC, as opposed to -5.6* BTDC for the older cam. The GTI cam has the part number "026 109 101 G" and the older cam has the part number "026 109 101 A" To give you an Idea about how much this cam does infact make a difference... It has more lift and duration than the 1.7 and 1.8 solid lifter cam!!!!!!!!! Mmmmm, BEEFY!

I agree that the RD/PF engine cam is the best factory cam for hydrualic lifters. And it is better than the 1.8L JH solid lifter cam (and the 1.7L cam). But mostly that's because the JH (1.8L) and EN (1.7L) engines had the wimpiest solid lifter cams of any of the solid lifter engines.

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »

<snip> Cutting your springs is the worst thing you could ever do. Springs on every car and aftermarket company come with what is called a "spring rate". The spring rate is the amount of force (measured in pounds per inch) that it takes to compress the spring. If your car has 135 lb/inch springs, it takes 135 lbs of weight, or force to compress the spring 1 inch. Now that you have a basic understanding of spring rates... cutting your coils shorten the amount of compression you have, while your spring rates stay the same.

If you cut the springs, the spring rate changes. The fewer coils you have in your spring, the stiffer the spring will be, and the higher the spring rate will be. That's part of what determines spring rate.

However, I agree that cutting springs willy-nilly is generally a bad idea. However, if you pay attention to details and understand what you are doing, cutting springs can give satisfactory results. The important thing is to cut for spring rate, not to cut for ride height. Most factory springs are far superior in quality to aftermarket springs. When you start with the best materials, and you pay attention to engineering details, the results will be good. If you start with lower quality materials, even if the engineering is good, the results aren't as good for the long term.

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »

Cutting your coils can lead to serious problems with bump steer, and bottoming out. Spend the extra money to do the suspension right.

Lowering the car with aftermarket springs can also cause the same serious problems with bump steer and bottoming out.

Generally speaking, lowering the car slightly isn't bad. But if you go beyond the point where the lower control arms are level, you are asking for serious handling problems. There are other changes you can make that will minimize the negatives and counteract some of the problems, but you really have to understand the geometry of the front suspension if you try to go beyond 1" to 1.5" lower than stock.

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »

Tires and wheels are next on the suspension list. Many people don't realize that the size of your side wall has alot to do with ride comfort and performance handling. MK2's mostly came from the factory with 13's and 14's. Many want larger wheels and smaller tires for the look, but you will also see major gains in handling. The largest factory wheel found on the MK2's and 4 cylinder MK3's is 15". They came on the 2.0 liter 16v in BBS form. The G60 corrado also has a set of 4 lug BBS wheels availible, as well as 15" steel wheels!!! These are cheap, light and durable. If you are in the market for new shoes for the car, but can't buy new, check the classifieds. You will find plenty of wheels, some with tires for sale in any price range, and almost any style.

Big diameter wheels and low profile, high speed rated tires are usually very heavy. The extra unsprung weight is a negative thing for handling and ride quality on anything other than a perfectly smooth paved road. There are some positives in the handling department from shorter sidewalls and bigger wheels, but none of those are as important as the weight of the wheel/tire package if you drive on typical roads (less than perfect surfaces, slighly bumpy in places). Try to stay under 35 pounds for the wheel/tire (inflated) package. If you can get under 30 pounds, the car will handle even better. It's awesome if you can get under 25 pounds per corner, but that's very difficult to hit.

I don't have time to finish the post here, but there are some other areas where I don't completely agree, and some factual errors in the remaining parts of this post. I'll be back later to address the rest.

Modified by Racer_X at 9:44 AM 11-7-2004

It's good to be back home.

www.theeugenevwscene.com

since you are knowledgable, i have a few Qs:
i'm planning on putting an aba bottom end below my cis-e head, what cam would be best to run? my focus for driving is all around...auto-x mainly.
and...can you get me a 3a short block for cheap?

so lets say you get and obd2 motor and want a forged crank, there ya go....and i think the crank trigger wheels comes off of the aba one anyways so its really just a matter of what parts you have laying around.....

Quote, originally posted by VRBTCHCAR »

Cheap people rock 8vs

Parts 4 Sale
GSXR Throttlebodies - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3208059
Rear Prop Valve - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3209699

me

"You are what you do, not what you say" - Fortune Cookie

Great stuff Rocco8V

1.8 T swap for sale
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4695421

Yes, and it has oil squirters

If rocco8v was a chick i'd stalk "her"!

Your a god man, thank you so much!

STICKY THIS MOD'S PALEEEEZZZZZZE

Mods: Votex Kit | BSH CAI | 18x8 BBS Reps | Smoked Side Markers | Badgeless Grille | Eurojet Exhaust |

Future Mods: Euro Springs - Torque Arm Insert - Foglights - - GIAC Chip

"The Cowl Induction functions on the principle of a low pressure zone close to the windshield created by the airflow going over it - similar to wings. "

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...39798