Hi All,

This is a extension / continuation of a thread posted by Tone-Dogg.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1678991

The reason why I decided to write this up is because after cleaning the throttle body, a lot of my problems were solved. No more rough startup, rough idle, cleared my Check Engine light CEL... etc.

So here we go:

1) Know WHERE thy Throttle body is

It is located on the left bottom of this picture. It is the weird-looking thing that connects the intake manifold and the black plastic air tubing:

A Closer Look:

2) Disconnect the plastic tube above it. The clamp holding the tube is one-time clamp but you can still remove the tube from it without destroying it.

Tube connected:

Tube disconnected:

3) Now, we remove the plastic clamp that holds the air tube to the TB and disconnect it from the TB. Then, remove the 4 bolts holding the TB to the Intake Manifold

4) Remove the electrical wire conector underneath the TB, to allow remove the whole TB out for cleaning
Where the connector is located:

5) Now, Clean the TB with whatever (or not) but make sure you dry it up if you use any liquid.

TB removed from the Engine:

6) Clean the intake manifold if you'd like. (I didn't)
The intake manifold:

7) If desired, you can remove / replace the Air Temperature Sensor mounted on the intake manifold for cleaning (They use 1 bolt to hold it - same as the ones used on the TB but shorter)

The location of the Temperature sensor:

8) If desired, replace the gasket with a new one.

The old gasket stuck on the TB:

The new gasket to put on:

9) Put everything back on and DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN the bolts. I'm sure we don't want to get a new Intake Manifold because of it.

Please correct me if you see fit.

P.S.
- How tight should the bolts be on the intake manifold? 13lb/ft? 15?
- You can buy the Throttle Body gasket and the Air Temperature Sensor at ECSTuning for a couple of bucks.
- Use the right tool everyone, I think I have stripped one of the bolts a little... anyone know where I can buy the bolt set?

I'm not very car-literate myself, so please give up your ideas or corrections! No hard feelings!

Modified by jtc126 at 2:31 PM 5-12-2005

Trying to learn....

I'd say to check it every 30K miles. according to this post.
My car has 75K and it came to point where my engine would stop when idle. So definitely check it at 30K.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1678991

Trying to learn....

Great job man.

2010 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT Premium Plus

2001 Jetta 1.8T WE gone

I cleaned my TB and did an adaptation last weekend and the car would die at iddle all of the sudden, the adaptation was sucessfull, so Im not sure what could be going on?? anyone have thoughts on this?

Greg

Did you reconnect the electric cable under the TB too?

Trying to learn....

THIS CAR IS FOR SALE: http://cosprings.craigslist.org/car/544933621.html

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2051204

http://www.myspace.com/jetta_girl001

Quote, originally posted by veedubtek »

...I am very meticulous in my inspections (vw master certified, finalist in the world service qualification championships last year).

Quote, originally posted by mk2vdubber »

walt - what are the torque specs on a vr6 head?

Quote, originally posted by veedubtek »

1/2" impact gun on the 3rd setting.

Quote, originally posted by groftja »

CAUTION: Last night I took out the IAT sensor in the manifold to clean it. It has a rubber o-ring that sits in a groove on the part to seal the hole from the manifold pressure. After 45k miles of use, my o-ring had expanded enough that it took brain surgery to get the part back in with the o-ring attached. Basically, I had to stick the IAT in the freezer to shrink and strenthen the o-ring, oil the o-ring and the hole in the manifold, and then use a tiny screwdriver to keep the o-ring from wanting to squeeze out when I pushed the IAT into the hole. It was a beotch to do (took about 30 minutes of messing with it) and recommend others try to buy a new o-ring before they do this procedure. If the o-ring is not sold separetely, be ready for a likely pain in the asz. BTW, my IAT was clean and didn't even need to do this.

is it really necessary to clean the IAT sensor? could a dirty IAT sensor cause a feeling like the throttle is closing at steady throttle? can you clean it with brake clean?

Mine did not need to be cleaned but I am super careful about air filter and motor oil quality and bet that some others who aren't and have older cars, have cruddy IAT sensors. Whatever you use to clean it, make sure it is safe on plastics...that's all I can say. You did see my CAUTION sign above right? Be careful.

nice writeup

if you do happen to strip out the threads in the aluminum manifold, rest easy, you will not have to replace the whole manifold. you can repair the threads with heli-coils...here's a how to:
http://www.modifieda4.com/web/....html

my A4:http://www.modifieda4.com/web/mya4.html
How does the performance of your A4 stack up?
Check out the CAPS Database:http://www.modifieda4.com/web/caps/b518-new.html

Guess what dyno is not actually located at the top of mount everest, despite what he has his elevation set to.

Now it's back again and it's worse than ever. I just finished cleaning out the TB, disconnected the battery for a few mins, reconnected without starting for a few minutes, and gave it a crank.

The bouncing tach at idle is still there and no better. I've also noticed if I'm giving just enough gas to maintain my current speed, I get the choking, stuttering (very very slightly), as I do when it's just at idle. If I give it full on gas acceleration, there's no issue (at least that I could feel).

One thing I did notice, is that when my AC is off, the problem is much less pronounced, as soon as I hit the AC, the stutter. flutter is noticebly worse.

Any other suggestion as to what else I should look at?

Should I go ahead and replace the Temperature sensor or would this not be causing my current symptoms.?

Can you give me some information on that?
What if I dont have vag-com to alignment?

Quote, originally posted by W_Jetta »

bump

post in your regional,,,and i'm sure somwone local will be able to help you with a TBA

20squared tuning

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