This is not a guide and I am not resposible for any damage to your car caused by following this DIY.

I did my wife's 2005 2.5L Jetta first oil change at 5K miles and this is what I did:

1. Raise the front of the car by either using ramps or a jack stands.

2. I used Mobil-1 0W-40 since it complies with VW standards.

3. You need to remove the lower cover, a standard torx bit would do.

4. Here is a picture of the rear drain plug and the oil filter housing

5. Remove the oil cap on the top of the engine. Drain the oil by removing the drain plug, be careful since it can be hot. To make this easier, run the engine before hand, since hot oil will flow easier.

6. This is the drain plug, notice the washer is part of it and can not be replaced. The dealer told me the drain plug can be reused and should be replaced every third oil change.

Screw back after the oil has been drained out of the engine.

7. To make my life easier, I bought a 74/76mm oil filter cup. It works like a charm

8. Drain the old oil by pushing in the little nob on the filter housing (you have to remove the small cap to see it)

9. Remove the filter housing using the filter cup

10. Replace the o-ring inside the filter housing, the new oil filter should come with it.

11. Insert the new filter cartridge.

12. Screw back the filter housing to 25Nm tq.

13. Pour new oil (6.2qts)

14. Check oil level

15. Start engine and check for leaks.

16. Have a

Let me know if the pictures are too big and need to be resized.

Modified by edisonr at 5:31 PM 4-25-2006

Kermit Racing

2006 GLI .:. 2008 Rabbit S

MkV Forum New User Information :: MkV FAQ & DIY Guide

Gotta love Juan Pablo on the Mobil!

Great DIY - Keep up the good work!

-Yev

Filter is about $10-11 (www.germanautoparts.com)
Oil, for Mobil1 0w-40, about $30-35 depending on where you get it (Autozone, walmart, whatever)

Dealer will charge between $70-90 for the same service.

Plus... on my GTI... did my first oil change 2 weeks ago, put Mobil1 0w-40 in... and I'm getting better gas mileage than I was on the factory oil

Good DIY, intersting that the filter housing is different than the GTI's... but I do believe the filter element is the same!

Also, for anyone who wants to put a magnetic drain plug in... the drain bolt is 14x1.5mm

Modified by digitalhippie at 2:38 PM 4-24-2006

Obviously you should drain the filter housing prior to removal but I am concerned about getting oil all over the place without using this drain tool but I really don't want to spend the money.

Use a screwdriver to push the center piece of the drain valve up-and-over... you can catch it on the lip of the housing and the oil will drain straight out. Once done, just push it up again, and let it snap back into place. No big mess, not worth $70-90 for that tool.

Yeah but does the oil run down the screwdriver and drip all over your hand?

Quote, originally posted by Shrek2005 »

Yeah but does the oil run down the screwdriver and drip all over your hand?

Nope. You don't leave the screwdriver there while draining, just a quick push to open the valve... then another push to close it... as I already said, no real mess. That tool is a waste of $80.

Yeah but does the oil run down the screwdriver and drip all over your hand?

Yup, 5qts brings it to the upper 1/3rd of the "OK" area

My dealer charged $59.95. for the service with Castrol Syntec 5w-40, plus a wash, top off washer fluid.

Worth it!

Modified by camjr at 12:23 PM 5-6-2006

Modified by camjr at 12:23 PM 5-6-2006

x2 personally

Is this really necessary to change the complete drain plug? It does not look any different than a MKIV plug and what we did when I worked for VW as a tech was to take a pair of dykes, cut the original washer off and put a replacement washer on. The dealer should have replacement washers to do this. Replacing the whole plug seems a bit excessive to me.

ehh...we've all heard too many horror stories to allow anyone but ourselves do something as seemingly simple as change the oil

"...if the cops get in the way, we're gonna roll right over them."

Plus letting the dealer wash your car is dangerous! Don't get Thread or Brian started....

Quote, originally posted by Anand@4induktion.com »

Yup, 5qts brings it to the upper 1/3rd of the "OK" area

The manual says 5.8 quarts? That what I put in the car and it is right where is is supposed to be! The 1.8t's were 5 quarts!

CePAvw... WE ROLL DEEPER

flickr

CePAvw... WE ROLL DEEPER

flickr

I guess its worth it but comparing Syntec 5W-40 to 1 0W-40 is like comparing bananas to apples!!! They are completely different kind of lubricants and Syntec is only a semi-synthetic lubricant (correct me if I have it wrong). You should compare Mobil 1 0W-40 price to Castrol's fully synthetic 0W-30's price in order to compare similar kind of products.

I use the Dikes and 0.99 washer form the dealer... no need to replace the plug!

CePAvw... WE ROLL DEEPER

flickr

And you're supposed to replace the washer EVERY oil change. It's a crush washer. N-013-849-3!!!!!!

you can see that the filter itself sits much higher than the housing is tall once it is removed, so there is a bunch of overflow. also the angle that it sits at will make things really messy. its just simpler and cleaner to drain it all first.

how much a qt. for dah MOTUL ?

I guess that's an idea. I said that before because the washer is part of the drain plug and it cannot be removed. You could also add an extra removable crush washer.

Kermit Racing

Correct! you are supposed to replace at EVERY! oil change. Although the part number n-013-849-3 is for the Aluminum washer for Aluminum oil pans.

Steel or Hybrid pans such as the one pictured above require a Copper drain plug washer Part number N-013-849-2

Just FYI!

I don't like the idea of putting 2 washers on. That doubles the number of surfaces it can leak on.

QUESTION: This DIY is for 2.5L engine. It seems the 2.0T is the same/similar. Am I correct? I have a 2007 GTI now.