How to find your Engine Code:
Location on Head, Location on Block
Picture shows location of code on head. Picture is of a transverse motor but the tab is in the same physical location of the block in a longitudinal setup.
*Note: There are a few cases where no stamp will exist on the head. The first are the 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition vehicles which were not stamped from the factory. The other case would be if the head was replaced as a result of some kind of engine mechanical failure (ie Timing belt with valve damage).

US Market Volkswagen
2000 Golf/Jetta: AWD
2001 Golf/Jetta: AWW
2002+ Golf/Jetta: AWP

1997-1999 Passat: AEB
1999-2001 Passat: ATW
2001 Passat: AUG/AWM
2002-2004 Passat: AMB

1999-2000 Beetle: APH
2001+ Beetle: AWV
2002 Beetle Turbo S: AWP

US Market Audi
1997-1999 A4: AEB
2000 A4: ATW
2001 A4: AWM
2002 A4: AMB

2000-2001 TT 180hp: ATC,AJQ,APX,APP,ARY,AUQ
2001-2004 TT 180hp: AWP
2001-2002 TT 225hp: AMU,BAM
2003-2004 TT 225hp: BEA
_____________________________________________

VW/Audi Engine Info
-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17"
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others
-Engine Mount Assembly/Mounting Info

Engine dimensions for OE engines:

• Bore size - 81mm (3.19in)
  
• Stroke - 86.4mm (3.40in)
  
• Rod Length - 144mm
  

Volkswagen Engine Info
Engine Code: AWD
Model Years: 2000 (11/99 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5700RPM
Torque: 155ft. lbs.@ 1750RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 55mm (2.17")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Code: APH
Model Years: 2000
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5500RPM
Torque: 155ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Code: AWW/AWV
Model Years: 2001 (07/00 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 (Officially, though in practice its 9.5:1 as other 1.8t motors)
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150hp @ 5700RPM
Torque: 162ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME 7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Code: AWP
Model Years: 2002+ (06/01 on)
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 180hp @ 5500RPM
Torque: 174ft. lbs.@ 1950RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.5
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .8 Bar (11.6psi)

Audi Engine Info
Engine Code: AEB,ATW,AUG
Model Years: 1997-2000
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150 @ 5700 RPM
Torque: 155 ft. lbs.@ 1750 RPM
ECU: 97-99.5 Motronic ME3.8.2/ME5.9, 2000+ is Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Code: AWM
Model Years: 2001-2005
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 ft. lbs. @ 1950 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

_____________________________________________

Head Differences between Engine Codes
* Size of intake/exhaust ports (image), AEB only US spec head to have larger ports.
* Use of tensioners (VVT or non-VVT)
* Valve covers
* Camshaft gear (06A vs 058)
* Hall sensor/CPS Shutter window - AEB has 1 window, all others have 4

_____________________________________________

Crank Info

1.8T crankshaft guide - Thanks Bobq
• 058 Old Style
  Came in the 058 external waterpump blocks only in longitudinal cars.(A4, Passat) These all have the “short”, small diameter snout. These cranks are all cast, and come with a toothed 60-2 wheel. There are 2 versions– the difference being the spigot on flywheel end.
  
  
  
  • Manual These have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
    
  • Automatic- This has a much flatter protrusion on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.
    

• 06A New Style
  These came in all 06A blocks with internal waterpump, both longitudinal and transverse. (Some codes AWD, AWW, AWP, AMB, AMU, AWM) These all have the “long”, large diameter snout. These cranks are cast or forged, and come with a windowed 60-2 wheel. There are 3 versions
  
  
  
  • Transverse manual/automatic- These are all forged and have provision for a pilot bearing to be pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end, but no bearing is installed.
    
  • Longitudinal manual- These are all cast and have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.
    
  • Longitudinal automatic- These are all cast and have a much flatter spigot on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.
    
  
  
• Notes:
  
  
  
  • 058 and 06A cranks are not interchangeable- they must match the block.
    
  • Transverse applications can use any of the above listed cranks.
    
  • Longitudinal manual applications can use the transverse forged crank with the installation of a pilot bearing. They may also use the longitudinal automatic crank if an adapter is machined to accept the pilot bearing.
    
  • Longitudinal automatic applications can use the transverse forged crank, or longitudinal manual crank if the spigot on the flywheel is machined down to clear the torque converter.
    
  • Trigger wheels are physically interchangeable, but early "bar" style sensors can only go in early blocks.
    
  • The early toothed wheel is better for SEM applications
    

  
  

• Cast Cranks
  
  
  
  • AEB,ATW,AMB, AWM
    
  
  
• Forged Cranks
  
  
  
  • AWD,AWW,AWP
    
  
  

Other Misc Info:

• 2nd O2 sensor on AWD can be tapped for A/F gauge
  
• AWP engines lack Fuse 6
  
• AWD had slightly different fitting coilpacks, they use clips and allen keys to be secured.
  
• The AEB engine code(non-dbw) has the largest intake ports and consequently is one of the most in demand head's to put on our cars.
  
• APH engines have a "baby" K03 turbo--not same as Golf and TT
  
• APH engines have the 2L exhaust
  
• APH engines have a smaller Intercooler (even smaller than Golf part). Less air through turbo = less boost.
  
• APH engines have Small Injectors, and 3 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator (sufficient for 150HP that’s it; maybe 160 max.)
  
• Looks like Golf 1.8T is a "hardware 180 HP" motor. The NB 1.8T is a "hardware 150 HP" motor. (ie Making 180HP Golf=software change; making 180HP NB=changing above parts)
  
• All AEB/ATW block are external water pump blocks, All others are internal
  
• All valve covers are interchangeable (from any engine code to any engine code).
  

AIT – Sensor – This is a small sensor located in the intake manifold just after the throttle body. It is responsible for monitoring the intake temperature. It can get coated with oil, and can affect gas mileage, and a loss of power. It is common to remove it and clean it with alcohol, or electronics cleaner.

Boost Leak – View Block 032 with VAG Com. If Fuel Trims are Negative more than 5% in the load range there is a very good chance that there is a leak after the turbo. Visual inspection of clamps, hoses for a loose connection is the best way to look for leaks. A common place for leaks is at the entrance to the pancake pipe located in the passenger side fender. Also the small line on the DV can rip.
Fuel Trim Details Here - http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html

CAI - Cold air intake

CTS – Coolant Temp Sensor – This part is prone to failure. 2002 and older vehicles had a bad coolant temp sensor from the factory that VW updated. It was a black sensor, and now the good one is referred to as a green top coolant temp sensor. Block 011 in the VAG COM can monitor coolant temp for erratic readings. This is a 7$ part. Do not change while engine is hot.

Diode - What does the Diode Mod do?
The MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is what reads how much actual boost you are making It sends that signal to the ECU (engine control unit). Once the data that the MAP has collected has been sent to the ECU, it then compares it to the specified boost that the car is supposed to be making (this is one parameter a chip modifies among many others). If the ACTUAL boost is over the SPECIFIED boost then the ECU puts the car into LIMP MODE. This is an attempt to stop you from damaging the turbo or anything else.

The DIODE(s) is connected to the correct wire(s) in the MAP sensor wiring harness. The MAP sensor sends signal to the ECU is voltage increments (so for 10PSI there is a corresponding voltage that is sent to the ECU when the MAP is reading 10 PSI).

The MAP sends 4.7 volts to the ECU when it’s reading 17 PSI and 4.3 volts when it’s reading 11 PSI. Once the diode(s) (whichever size you chose) is connected to the correct wire(s), the MAP sensor continues to read the actual boost that the turbo is producing and sends the voltage signals to the ECU corresponding to the amount of boost its reading, UP UNTIL THE VOLTAGE THAT THE DIODE IS INTENDED FOR. (For example...if you have the 4.7v diode in the MAP will send the voltage signal to the ECU up until its sending 4.7v...once it hits 4.7 volts it will keep sending 4.7 volts instead of sending the ACTUAL voltage for the ACTUAL amount of boost the sensor is reading which would be greater then 4.7 voltages, which would ordinarily without a diode installed, send the ECU into limp mode).

Therefore, it "tricks" the ECU into thinking it is only making 17PSI (because that is what the 4.7 volt diode clamps the MAP sensor at) instead of seeing what the turbo is actually making. Since the ECU is receiving signal from the MAP sensor showing that the turbo is only making 17 PSI (with the 4.7v diode in), which is what the specified boost is for a chipped ECU, THEN THE ECU WILL NOT PUT THE CAR INTO LIMP MODE - AKA, you can run as much boost as you want without hitting limp mode!
-courteousy Spooled_AWP

Quick run down:

• 4.3v diode will clamp at 11psi
  
• 4.7v diode will clamp at 17psi
  
• 5.1v diode will clamp at nothing as its over 5v
  

PCV

DV/N249

ECU – The ECU is responsible for nearly all functions on the car. If the ECU is suspected as a bad part, you need to use a scan tool such as a VAG com to attempt to communicate with the ECU. If you can’t communicate with the ECU, then the ECU needs replacement. Check all electrical connections. Check your Fuses for blown fuses. Whatever killed the ECU might kill the new one.
ECU removal procedure - http://www.goapr.com/VW/suppor...a.pdf

IC - Intercooler

Immobilizer (ECU Swapping Info)
Audi:
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer by 2002. Only exception is that some TTs in 00 had an immobilizer.
Volkswagen:
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer in 2000.

The immobilizers is a theft prevention measure. If you swap an ECU without matching up the ECU and the cluster, it will start briefly and then die repeatedly flashing the immobilizer light on the dash (looks like a car outline with the base a key). There are 2 kinds of immobilizer. Immo II used on pre 2002, and Immo III used on 2002+. Immobilizer and ECU info can be found on the VAG COM Site.
Immo2
Immo3
If swapping an engine into a car without an immobilizer/cluster, you can get software for swaps from many chip tuners that remove the immobilizer from the ECU.

Limp Mode – These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine. It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75), by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.

MAP - The MAP sensor is located in the OE SMIC end tank. There are two different sized MAP sensors, and VW didn't make the transition based on years but cars from all years might have either the small or large version (rumor has it the small version didn't come around till ~2003). When your upgrading your intercooler to a larger SMIC or FMIC and need to specify which MAP sensor your car is running the only fool proof way to check which sensor your car has. If you are making custom piping and need a MAP sensor flange check out 42nd Draft Design for a universal solution.
Rule of Thumb appears to be:
2002 and earlier cars = large MAP
2003 and later cars = small or large MAP

AEB vehicles do not have MAP sensors, they have BARO sensors instead.

MAF - Click here to check if your MAF is bad. Mass air flow meter is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).

Quote, originally posted by WhiteG60 »

Basiicly the problem with MAF's is that VW and some/all of the OEMs run the PCV back into thei ntake tract or you're running a K&N filter or another cotten/guaze/oil filter and a film builds up on the maf element because of the oil from the PCV or from the filter. If you run a catch can, and run a paper or foam filter, and make sure the intake tract is dry you will most likely have a very very reliable maf. Most maf failures are not even failures. Its the element being dirty/oily. If people would clean them with alcohol or the CRC MAF cleaner at the FIRST SIGN of it being dirty, or hell, even if you just do it every time you change your oil or during your maintenance regiment, you'd be hard pressed to ever have to replace it.

MBC – Manual Boost Controller. Often people want more boost from their car, and use a MBC. While MBC’s can get you more boost they will cause a jerky part throttle driving, and can cause over boost, often put the car into a limp mode. The way a MBC works is by bleeding off air from the wastegate control line. A wastegate is a mechanical flapper valve in the turbocharger that opens to allow exhaust gas to sneak around the turbo. By bleeding off air from the line, the wastegate opens less, more exhaust goes through the turbo, and you get more boost.
Great details on MBC here - http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/1.8T-DBW.html
And general Turbo/Wastegate details here http://www.streetracersonline....e.php

N75 – The N75 is an electronic solenoid valve that the ECU uses to control boost. It is located in the intake hose near the back right side of the engine. It has 3 connections.
1. Connects to charge pipe = pressure source
2. Connects to wastegate actuator
3. Connects to intake hose – bleed line.
The ecu will pulse this valve at a high frequency to bleed air off from the wastegate line. It does this based on throttle position and engine load. If the valve, or any of the liens connected to it have leaks then there can be severe boost regulation problems. It’s function is similar to the MBC above. To get more boost people often swap in different N75 valves. These different valves simply have a different response characteristic, and will act different when given the same signal by the ecu. They can get more boost, less boost, or even a big boost spike by swapping N75’s.

TB – The throttle on these cars is drive by wire, it is an electronic throttle with a wire attached. Most common TB problem just requires adaptation, or cleaning out with carb cleaner. This procedure shows how to do a TBA. TBA can improve idle, and part throttle operation. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html. To clean the TB remove it, and spray inside with carb cleaner. Wipe out the residue that gets built up in there. NEVER port a TB on a 1.8T it won’t idle properly.

Modified by Boostin20v at 11:39 AM 8-5-2008

Technical Data

• Technical info about cylinder head
  
• Make a small port head into a large port head?
  
• Large Number of T Series and GT Series Turbo Compressor Maps
  
• Garrett Turbo Tech
  
• Turbo Tech
  
• What is the diference between and automatic and manual crank?
  
• Fuel injection flow vs HP tables (by bobqzzi)
  
• Valve Guide Clearance Info (by bobqzzi)
  

Large vs Small Port
- The AEB is the only US OE large port head, see first section for what models the AEB was available in.
Port size differences (AEB vs all other US spec engine codes):
* Intake ports - 54x26mm vs 43x26mm
* Exhaust Ports - 36mm vs 33mm

Head Swapping - Large Port/AEB head on Small Port Block and the reverse
All 20v heads are interchangeable!

• Large port heads have no provision for the combi valve, thus you're secondary air injection pump not properly functioning and will throw a CEL. CELs can be avoided with resistors or better yet some chip tuner's code will ignore the errors and not display the CEL.
  
• On engines with VVT you can swap the VVT solenoid into a non-VVT head without issue.
  
• AEBs use 1 window cam trigger wheels, if your putting the AEB head on a small port post 2000 motor be sure to use the 4 window trigger wheel from the original head
  
• Cam pulley must match the short block. Putting a large port AEB head on a post 2000 06A block must retain the OE cam pulley, the 058/AEB pulley will not seat the timing belt correctly.
  

ECU Tuning [aka Chips, Flashes, etc]
A chip is the most common modification for the 1.8t. Of the various companies offering chips each are going to offer a significant power increase over stock. Selecting the right chip for you can sometimes be a tough decision so you have to thing about what fits your needs.
Most chip tuners will offer a 5 hour trial of their software, try as many as you can. If you cant try the software try to get a ride in as many different chipped cars as possible. This will help you get a feel for each chip and its power delivery.
What chiptuners do to your ECU. courtesy of Andy Smith
Chip Tuning Guide Where, When, How, Why
Chips/More Chips
APR/More APR
GIAC/More GIAC
Neuspeed/More Neuspeed
Revo/More Revo
Unitronic/More Unitronic
Upsolute/More Upsolute
APR/GIAC/REVO
APR Website | GIAC Website | Neuspeed Website | REVO Website | Unitronic Website | Upsolute Website | Eurodyne Website

How can I find out if my car is chipped?
The easiest is to use a boost gauge or RossTech's VAG-COM to monitor the boost levels of your vehicle. If the boost is greater than OE spec the vehicle does have some type of boost modifying modification. Check for a diode mod MAP clamp, MBC or chip.

My car has more boost than stock but no diode or MBC, how can I tell what Tuner's chip I have?
The easiest is to contact the various chip tuners and supply them with your VIN to see if they have records of your vehicle. Another is to try the various tuner specific end user tools to switch chip tunes like APR's EMCS, REVO's SPSS and GIAC's Flashloader. If you can change the programming of your chip using one of these tools you likely have a chip tune from that particular company. If none of the above works you're unlikely to ever find out 100%.

High Flow or No Catalytic Converter Issues
Use of a high flow after market catalytic converter or the complete removal of the unit from your exhaust can cause the rear O2 sensor to trigger the CEL light of code P0420. This error typically means that the cat if you've got one is not working at the level the ECU expects. What can you do about it? Some tuners offer "Test Pipe" files for "Off Road use only", this programming ignores the error and does not trigger the CEL. Another means is the use of a spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow (Read this thread for instructions).
*NOTE* - The OEM cat is NOT a restrictive point and can be cut and welded onto even a 3" pipe for use in any custom or purchased exhaust.

K04 Model Numbers
k04-001 = direct bolt on to transverse motors
k04-015 = direct bolt on for longitudinal motors
k04-020/022/023 = turbo from audi TT 225hp - requires TT manifold and other parts (for transverse setups)
k04-025 = turbo from rs4 mainly used for s4 upgrade
Official K04-001 Information Thread
Official K04-02x Information Thread
Old Ko4-02x thread
K04 model Info/Fitment Guide

Cams
99% of the people interested have yet to reach the point of need, 99% do not have access to the needed tuning adjustments required for true gains.
Cat Cams/More Cat Cams
Eurospec Sport Cams/More Eurospec Sport Cams
Schrick Cams/More Schrick Cams

Coil Packs/Ignition Coils –

Testing for a bad coil (without Vag-Com)

• -With the engine running, pull the suspect bad coil's wiring harness connector off the coil or pull the coil off the spark plug. If no changes happen to the idle of the motor its a bad plug, if it does change its likely ok.
  Testing for a bad coil (with Vag-Com)
  
• Log Blocks 015, and 016. This will be a misfire counter. Drive the car or let it run, and look for misfires. If you have a bad coil you will see the counter increase on a cylinder. If you have only one counting up then it’s probably a bad coil. Turn off engine and take that coil out and swap it with another coil. The cylinders read left to right 1,2,3,4 when looking at the engine from the front. Use the VAG again to see if the misfires have also swapped to another cylinder. If it moved, then you have a bad coil. Replace it. If they do not move, then you likely have a plug problem.
  Coil Info:
  
• On some cars the ignition coils have problems and they will pop up out of the cylinder head and lose contact with the plug, make sure your spark plugs are torqued to 22 ft-lbs when changed.
  
• All coils are interchangeable as long as they have the correct number of pins. There are two styles of coils, 3pin (Found on AEB motors, and others of that era) which require external igniter and 4pin (Found on all recent motors 2000+) where the igniter is built into the coil itself. Depending on your engine code some trimming to the coil may be needed to push the coil all the way into the valve cover.
  
• When swapping to the bolt down coils from push down coils use M6x1.00x25 or M6x1.00x30 screws
  

Spark Plugs

OE Plugs: NGK PFR6Q - .032" gap
For Stock Cars - .032" gap:

• NGK BKR6E/6962
  
• Autolite 3923
  
• Denso Iridium IK20
  For Chiped Cars - .028" gap:
  
• NGK BKR7E/4644 (formerly 6097)
  
• Autolite 3922
  
• Denso Iridium IK22
  

Upgrading Pistons/Rods
AEB, AGU, AJQ, APP, APX, BAM, AMU, AUL, APX, AWD and APH engine codes have 20mm wrist pins, all others have 19mm wrist pins.

AEB and AWD (all 20mm wrist pin motors??) had 16v style rods (144mm long, 20mm wrist pins). The pauter 16v rods drop right into the stock pistons for those 2 engine codes without requiring modification.

All aftermarket pistons have 20mm wrist pins and mate to any aftermarket rod, pauter, eagle/scat, crower, manly etc etc.

All of the later cars have 19mm wrist pins and tapered wrist pin areas so the 16v style rods dont drop in. Pauter makes a modified rod with a tapered wrist pin area and re bushes them to 19mm. They are the same price or a little more then the regular rods depending where you get them.

For engines with 19mm wrist pins the only option to keep stock pistons is pauter tapered rods

Oils
FAQ: VW/Audi 502.00 and 505.01 Approved Oils
Any 502.0 spec oil VW 502.0 Oil Chart
FWIW the Valvoline 5w30 is not a 502 rated unless you buy the Synpower 5w30 which is 502/505 (according to the label). Also the popular GC 0w30 is not on there despite the 502 label because VW only regards a 5w30 with 502 or a 0w40 with 502 as suitable alternatives to the 5w40.
Oil Filter Confessions...the Big Kahuna

What is VVT?
VCT or Variable Cam Timing. Synonymous with Variable Valve Timing. The VCT in later 1.8T's is simply for emissions purposes. It has only two states - normal and massive overlap. The overlap is used to draw exhaust gasses back into the cylinders at startup.

DV vs BOV
- These cars are designed for recirculated valves (ie a Diverter Valve/DV)
- A DV with a diaphragm will have the quickest response compared to those with a piston, though diaphragms can rip/fail which requires replacement while a piston can just be relubed
- A BOV can be used as long as it is closed at idle (not true of most)

Injectors
Use the size your software was designed for. If your software wasnt designed for a larger injector size then you will get no gain and even possibly cause issues as a result.

• Fuel injection flow vs HP tables
  
• USRT Fuel injector databases
  

Vac Diagrams

AWD

Quote, originally posted by All Data »

1 - Vent line From gravity valve at fuel tank See "Fuel Tank, Removing and Installing" item no 8. See: Fuel Tank\Service and Repair 2 - EVAP canister With Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve -N80- 3 - Turbocharger 4 - Check-valve For EVAP canister system 5 - Pressure unit For Boost Pressure Regulation Valve 6 - Deceleration shut-off valve 7 - Wastegate bypass regulator valve - N75 Valve is activated (pulsed) by the Engine Control Module (ECM) Checking activation: See Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM), activating. Refer to "On Board Diagnostic". See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection 8 - Brake booster 9 - Check-valve For brake booster 10 - Air filter with Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - G70 - 11 - Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation 12 - Combination valve For Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system Checking. See: Emission Control Systems\Air Injection\Testing and Inspection 13 - Fuel pressure regulator 14 - Check-valve 15 - Recirculating valve for turbocharger -N249- 16 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) solenoid valve -N112- Checking. See: Emission Control Systems\Air Injection\Testing and Inspection 17 - Crankcase ventilation 18 - Check-valve For EVAP canister system 19 - Charge air pressure sensor -G31- / charge air cooler 20 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump motor - V101 - * Checking function. See: Emission Control Systems\Air Injection Pump\Testing and Inspection 21 - Vacuum reservoir

AWW/AWP

Quote, originally posted by All Data »

Turbocharging System, Overview 1 - Vent line From gravity valve at fuel tank. 2 - EVAP canister With Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve -N80- 3 - Turbocharger 4 - Check-valve For EVAP canister system 5 - Pressure unit For Boost Pressure Regulation Valve 6 - Deceleration shut-off valve 7 - Wastegate bypass regulator valve - N75 Valve is activated (pulsed) by the Engine Control Module (ECM) Checking activation: See Output Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM), activating. Refer to "On Board Diagnostic". See: Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection 8 - Brake booster 9 - Check-valve For brake booster 10 - Air filter with Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - G70 - 11 - Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation 12 - Combination valve For Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system 13 - Fuel pressure regulator 14 - Check-valve 15 - Recirculating valve for turbocharger -N249- 16 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) solenoid valve -N112- 17 - Crankcase ventilation 18 - Check-valve For EVAP canister system 19 - Charge air pressure sensor -G31- / charge air cooler 20 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump motor - V101 - * Checking function. See: Emission Control Systems\Air Injection Pump\Testing and Inspection 21 - Vacuum reservoir

Hydro Lock Info
Click Here

Displacment Upgrades (2.0 20v, 20/20, etc)
Official Displacement Increasing Thread
Stroker Kit Info
20v Hybrid For 9A/3A/PG/PM/ABA Engines
20v Hybrid For AEG, AZG Block
20v Hybrid For ALH Block
20/20 For OE 1.8t Block (AWD/AWW/AWP/etc)

A/C and/or P/S Delete Belt Size (transverse applications)
No P/S and No A/C - 35"
No A/C - 44-45.5" (OEM Belt 06A 145 933 D (1120mm/44") or NAPA/UAP belt 25-060441 for 44.75" or 25-060439 for 45.5")
(above data works with BOTH OE pullies and ECS's lightened/underdriven pullies)

1.8/2.0 20v OE Naturally Aspirated Info
125hp 1.8 20v - AGN engine code, European Only VW Golf/Jetta, Audi A3
135hp 2.0 20v - ALT/ADR engine code, European Only VW Passat, Audi A4
features:
Higher CR

Modified by eggroller at 3:01 PM 8-10-2009

Upgraded Clutchs
If you haven't noticed most of the 1.8t drivers are upgrading their clutches after a year. The stock clutch just isn't up to the task of chipped HP and Torque. A basic upgrade is a stock VR6 clutch which is slightly larger and a lightweight flywheel. The autotech set up is very popular right now and combines thier 10lb flywheel, the starter gear, and a Sach's VR6 clutch kit. This type of set up will hold a good amount of power. Basically if you plan on a chip, and bolt on's this is what you want. Stock like driveability with some extra holding power. If you're shooting for more power then you want to look into either a stage 2 or 3 kit which will include both a beefier clutch disk and pressure pate. brake in for a new clutch is between 500-1000 miles...not highway miles either. Neuspeed also offer's clutch kit's. They have a sport and race kit, the sport features a full faced disc where the race kit has a 4 puck disc.

02J to 02M swap
Complete Parts List w/ Part Numbers
Helpful Install Information

Modified by Boostin20v at 2:26 PM 6-26-2006

Engine

Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS)

• Early Dark Green (replaces blue CTS): 059 919 501
  
• Late "Green Top" (replaces black CTS): 059 919 501 A
  

PCV Parts

• PCV Overview for Transverse Motors (ETKA Diagram) - PDF
  
• Suction Pump: pn 058 133 753 B (image)
  
• PCV Valve: pn 035 103 245 A (image)
  
• PCV Hose (Y-shapped connects valve cover, lower breather port and intake): pn 06A 103 221 BH (image)
  
• PCV Hose (from lower crank case vent to Y shaped hose) pn 06A 103 213 AF
  
• Pressure Regulator Valve on Intake piping: 034 129 101 B (same on all motors)
  

Fueling

Fuel Injectors

• 06A 906 031 S (AWD, 317.46cc/min@45psi, 369cc/min@60psi)
  
• 06A 906 031 AB (APH, 281.78cc/min@45psi)
  
• ??? ??? ??? ?? (AMB, 281cc@45psi, 324.84cc@60psi)
  
• 06A 906 031 BA (AWV/AWP, 317cc@45psi)
  

FPR

• 037 133 035C (AWV, 3bar)
  

Coilpacks

• 06B 905 115E (AWD - Bolt Down)
  
• 06B 905 115R (AWW/AWP)
  
• N 101 174 03 (Allen bolt for bolt down coil, 8 per set needed)
  

OE Oil Filters

• 06a 115 561 B (Transverse Oil Filter)
  
• 068 115 561 B (Longitudinal Oil Filter, larger one specified by TSB, usable on the transverse motors)
  

Oil Pan

• 06A 103 601 AA (06A block hybrid oil pan)

  Gaskets

  Head Gaskets
  
  • European 83mm bore - 06A 103 383 AF
    
  Intake Manifold Parts
  
  • 06B 133 555 H (Injector Seat)
    
  • 06A 906 149 Injector Seal O-rings (set of 4)
    
  • 058 129 717 D Intake Manifold Gasket
    
  Turbo
  
  • Nissan T25 flange - 14415-17M00
    
  • Nissan T3 flange - 14415-4P200
    
  • Nissan gasket info: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4292434
    

  Sensors

  Mass AirFlow sensor (MAF)
  
  • 06A 906 461 A (for 2.0, but seems to work with AWD)
    
  • 06A 906 461 D (AWD/AWW)
    
  • 06A 906 461 L (AWP)
    
  • Latest revision is LX
    
  MAP Sensor
  
  • 038 906 051 Large
    
  • 038 906 051 B Small
    
  Air Temp Sensor
  
  • 00-03 (including 337) 0 280 130 085
    
  • 03+ 06N 905 379A
    

  N80 Purge Valve
  0 280 142 354

  Y pipe under intake manifold (AWD?)
  058 133 753B

  Cam Chain Adjuster
  058 109 088 E (List is ~$700!)

  Diverter Valve
  06A 145 710 N (TT/NB Turbo S)

  N249 (Diverter Valve Selenoid)
  028 906 283N (NB Turbo S/???)

  4.0 bar Fuel pressure Regulator
  078 133 534 C

  Head Bolts
  06A 103 385 A (AWD, APH)

  Exhaust Manifold Gasket
  058 253 039 G

  Coilpack Replacement Harness
  1J0 971 658 L

  Transmission
  VW "High-Performance" 75W/90 Transmission Fluid
  G 005 100 A1

  02J 2nd gear grind fix ... parts off "moclov"'s invoice:
  [2] - G-005-100-A1 - oil, .5 litr
  [1] - 00076 - brake klee
  [1] - 02J-311-239-J - synchr hub
  [2] - 02J-311-247-C - synchr ring
  [1] - 02J-311-261-K - 2nd gear
  [1] - AMV-188-200-03 - seal comp
  [3] - G-005-100-A1 - oil, .5 litr

  02M 2nd gear grind fix ... parts off "genxguy"'s invoice:
  [1] - 02J-311-251-J 1st gear
  [1] - 02J-311-261-L 2nd gear
  [1] - 02J-311-239-J synchr hub
  [2] - 02J-311-247-C synchr rng
  [2] - 02J-311-277-A synch ring
  [2] - 02J-311-279 Outer ring
  [1] - 02A-311-531-K reversgear
  [2] - G-005-000 Oil-1 litr
  
  Modified by Boostin20v at 8:30 AM 5-1-2009
  

Downloadable PDF

1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 > (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
14. Interior lights, central locking system (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
16. A/C clutch, after-run coolant pump (10A).
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A).
36. Fog lights (15A).
37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).
43. Engine control elements (10A).
44. Heated seats (15A).

Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery:

S162. Glow plugs (coolant) (50A).
S163. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A).
S164. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A).
S176. Relays panel interior (110A).
S177. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp.) (110A).
Generator (GEN) (120 Amp.) (150A).
S178. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A).
S179. ABS (30A).
S180. Coolant fan (30A).

Modified by Boostin20v at 2:32 PM 11-19-2008

Must reads for the first time 1.8t modder
Turbo Tech - BT/High Performance and the 1.8t
Complete Idiots Guide To Basic Modding For 1.8T
THE Stock turbo tuning guide...your source for what it takes!

VW Specific Tools:
Zelenda

Maintenance DYI Threads:
DIY: 1.8T Coilpack and Spark Plug Change
DIY cam positioning sensor (hall sensor)
Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation
DIY: How to do a Compression Test
Coil Pack Overlay TSB Info
Coil Pack Overlay Harness Install
Ultimate Timing Belt DIY!
DIY: Transverse Timing Belt, water pump, thermostat
Information on Plastic Propeller Waterpump VS Metal Propeller Waterpump, Plus Timing Belt DIY (Video)
Thermostat Replacement
Alternator Swap
Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) Replacement
AWP RPM Pickup (not connection at coils)
How to Check for Vac Leaks
Pressure testing your intake
DIY- Cleaning Engine Bay

Performance DYI Threads:
Official ATP Eliminator Turbo Thread
Lemmiwinks: The Guide
Boostvalve Dual Stage MBC Install
Clamping the Map Sensor aka "Diode Mod"
Water/Methanol Injection: Install, Test & Tune Part 1
Water/Methanol Injection: Install, Test & Tune Part 2
DIY: Oil/Coolant Lines for Tubular Exhaust Manifold

Vortexer Opinion How to Mod Guides
DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
The "How to get X+ to work with your BT setup" Guide!
Solution to the rear O2 CEL (P0420)

Product Testing:
Official 1.8t Intake Manifold Flow Bench Test Results

Info Threads:
Fixing Misaligned Accessory Belt Tensioner
PCV Airflow Design
Diagrams for 1.8t
Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation
OE Wideband o2 sensor wiring color codes
*** The MKIV How-To, FAQ, and Do-It-Yourself Guide ***
Great info on the K04 Turbo Upgrade - K04-02x Upgrade Discussion
How To - Installing OEM rings and new rods
FYI: ATP GT28RS H/W Kit purchasers, read this first... install tips and tricks inside
Turbo Compressor Maps overlayed with 1.8t motor specs

Modified by Boostin20v at 3:52 PM 3-26-2009

Where to buy
Ross-Tech

Ross-Tech Info
Ross-Tech 1.8t Vag-Com FAQ
Ross-Tech General Vag-Com FAQ
Ross-Tech Measuring Block List

Enthusiast Provided Info
Vag-Com Blocks and What They Do (Excel Doc)
VAG-COM procedures for testing the MAF, O2 sensors and catalytic converter
Fuel Trim Information
Setting Readiness: Secondary Air & Evaporative Emissions
OFFICIAL GUIDE: Advanced Data Plotting Techniques in Excel

Modified by Boostin20v at 12:12 PM 2-7-2009

OBDII Code Look-up Websites
-PlanetVAG.com
-TroubleCodes.net
-OBD-Codes.com

• P0171 Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean (vacuum leak, possible bad MAF)
  
• P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) (Rear 02 Sensor Reading Incorrect)
  
• P1297 Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose (Check your DV hoses)
  

• Intake Manifold - 7 ft/lbs
  
• Valve Cover - 10 ft/lbs
  
• main bearings - 65nm + 1/4 turn (stretch bolt)
  
• rod bolts - 30nm + 1/4 turn (stretch bolt)
  
• head bolts - (stretch bolt)
  
  
  
  • step 1. 40nm
    
  • step 2. 1/4 turn
    
  • step 3. 1/4 turn
    
  
  

Turbocharger Specific Part Needs

• GT Series Turbo
  
  
  
  • Coolant Fittings: M14x1.5mm to -6an or banjo style (for both turbo and block fittings)
    
  • Oil Lines: need GT Series flanges w/gaskets, each uses 2 M8x1.25mm bolts for mounting
    
  • Feed Line Note: Requires an inline restrictor to fit a -4an line (mount restrictor on turbo). Fitting for feed line on oil filter housing is M12x1.5mm or M10x1.0mm depending on port used.
    
  
  
• T Series Turbo
  
  
  
  • Coolant: If not watercooled you need a M14x1.5mm plug for the block and a cap for the coolant feed Y line
    
  • Oil: need T Series flanges w/gaskets, each uses 2 8x1.25mm bolts for mounting
    
  • Feed Line Note: Requires an inline restrictor to fit a -3an line (mount restrictor on turbo). Fitting for feed line on oil filter housing is M12x1.5mm or M10x1.0mm depending on port used.
    
  
  **Note: If you using ATP or Old style PagParts exhaust manifold you can use the ATP hardware kits for oil/coolant lines.

  Required Parts
  

• Exhaust manifold
  
• Down pipe (if manufacturer of manifold offers a matching down pipe get it)
  
• Turbo Inlet (will depend on manifold/turbo for configuration)
  
• New exhaust manifold gasket
  
• (4) M10x1.5mm bolts for mounting turbo to manifold (On the ATP T25 flange manifold for internal wastegate turbos the bolts are 8X1.25mm)
  
• Correct chip tuning or standalone
  
• Appropriate sized FPR
  
• Correct Injectors
  
  Good guide to sizing: (search for bobqzzi’s detail flow data for accurate calculations if needed)
  
  • 440cc:330whp max
    
  • 580cc:380whp max
    
  • 630cc:430whp max
    
  • 750cc:500whp max
    
  
  

(compiled by EdsGTI)

Modified by Boostin20v at 10:47 PM 3-24-2009

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...16330

Caveat emptor