The OG. Dirty Euro.

is this true ?

The OG. Dirty Euro.

its alot like the old enamal paintjobs cars had up untill base/clear showed up.

and yeah, they use spray paint for certin areas, door jambs, ect. after learning more about it (over 60 pages), i really cant see any reason why it wouldn't work if done right. the worst part seems to be perfecting the application process & avoiding bubbles, it can quickley double the amount of sanding needed.

for those who missed what we're talking about...

the very first page..
http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

and the contiuation of it as part 2...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

Modified by zeroluxxx at 11:33 PM 10-20-2006

dZero - design&development

I wouldn't count on it turning out great. I would expect the worst and then be glad if it turns out better.

Guys have had great results (at least from pictures floating around), but they have also spent many, many hours on it. I would like to see it in person before I ever try it. I.M.O., well balanced camera lighting can hide many imperfections.

To each their own, I'm not hating.

After One coat

Second coat

Third coat

Fourth coat and some orange peel

One last coat and here's how it sits now.

This was supposed to be a dark hunter green... but it came out teal.


Modified by wmelon137 at 1:50 PM 10-24-2006

You have to look at it this way, the hood you did looks pretty damn good, and with a little more fine sanding and buffing it can be perfect.

If anyone isnt satisfied then your only out 20 bux between sandpaper, mineral spirits and a quart.

Mess up a paint job that involves a gun with primer, clear base coats and all the other supplies and your out a ton more.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4720322

Quote, originally posted by TwiztidPhr34k »

WOW I read the past posts about this subject...and the results seem too great to be true. I can afford putting the extra time into something like this, especially when saving a couple thousand dollars. I'm gonna have to find me some scrap metal and Tremclad is it? Or is this actually Rustoleum in the US? What's the best ratio of paint to thinner to use?

You're right. Tremclad is just the Canadian name. It's still Rustoleum. I have a beater 96 Golf that has a horrible paint job done to it from the previous owner. So I'm totally going to start on that. Figure it can't get any worse then what it is right now.

From all of what I've read you pretty much want a watery mix. Very thin. Like I said I'm going to start the process this weekend.

Modified by maninoreaga at 10:02 AM 11-9-2006

Wanna buy something off of the golf, let me know!

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4720322

Quote, originally posted by TwiztidPhr34k »

It's decided, this summer my car will be black...black seems so vague...is it possible to get a red fleck black paint? Also I noticed in the orange beetle on another post I've seen the car doesn't look as glossy, do they sell a clearcoat that could be done the same way...one more question, what if I just put this paint through the HVLP gun, sure it'll take a lil more paint, but it'll also get it done faster, and maybe look better? I'm very intrigued about this whole $50 paint job thing.

It comes premixed. so unless you wanted to add the red fleck yourself, you pretty much just get solid colors. the hood that i did is pretty glossy, with some color sanding and then buffing and polishing it'd be pretty shiny. They also sell a spray on clear coat but it does not appear to be available as a roll on. I haven't tried it but it could probably work ok. I think if you thin it out well enough it should work ok in an HVLP gun, but it's not like it really took that long to paint with a roller

What is color sanding???

Quote, originally posted by wmelon137 »

It comes premixed. so unless you wanted to add the red fleck yourself, you pretty much just get solid colors. the hood that i did is pretty glossy, with some color sanding and then buffing and polishing it'd be pretty shiny. They also sell a spray on clear coat but it does not appear to be available as a roll on. I haven't tried it but it could probably work ok. I think if you thin it out well enough it should work ok in an HVLP gun, but it's not like it really took that long to paint with a roller

space c o w b o y
HOMEGROWNdubs
electroL O V E

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4720322

I finished painting my car w/ the "$50 roller" method.

I ended up spending a grand total of around $102.00 and the results are surprising. There are minor flaws here and there mostly due to my impatience, and the fact that I did no body work. Other than that, the paint itself came out perfect.

The "gallery" link on the page below has the final results and the "process" link has the whole process start to finish.
http://www.bryanswebpage.com/Paint/index.htm

Sample of my results:

Here's mine after much work, prep and finish. But the paint held up very well through Missouri winter and salt, driven daily and not babied.

That said, I would never do it again. With actual automotive paint the results would have been 100x better with less work. I had more time than money that summer so thought I would give it a try. Not diasapointed though.





Modified by addictheadvw at 3:20 AM 7-24-2007

I'm REALLY impressed after 1 coat.

Like someone on Honda-tech said though, It's not about a show quality paintjob, it's about regaining some of the respect for your car.

I used Interlux Brightside single stage polyurethane paint (Fire Red) for my CRX

http://www.starboardsupply.com...7b534

It's a very similar method to how I gesso (prepare) wood to (oil) paint on.
Like others have said, it's about prep work. But honestly, if your body is in good condition, and JUST the paint is bad, the Brightside would work PERFECTLY. The fine roller DOES coat VERY, VERY evenly. The problem with a rattle can is the uneveness, same is true for brushwork. The roller makes things VERY flat. and then the finishing sanding and buffing takes care of the smoothness.

The downside is that the paints are weaker than "real" car paints...
But I figure, this Interlux Brightside is a single stage Polyurethane, and "real" car paint is a 3-stage polyurethane, so this is definitely a step up from Enamel.
And if it's good enough for the Seven Seas, it's good enough for the midwest

All in all, this has cost me about $30 so far, and I'm loving my results.
When I am done, I can post pics if I remember...
But my body works sucks
But I'm going for a 20/20 car
Looks good 20 feet away, going 20mph

Stop buying junk you don't need.

Nice to be blown on a daily basis!!!