yea, basically just using it for a spacer. I could use anything to make up the difference, but i already had that so i figured i'd use it

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

Old type rectangular plug.
000 979 129 for 1.5mm² wire (for 3 wires from ECU)
000 979 219 for 2.5mm² wire

For later version of housing. (with one rounded edge)
000 979 134 for 1.0mm² wire
000 979 134 A for 1.0mm² wire
000 979 226 for 2.5mm² wire
000 979 226 A for 2.5mm² wire
(rubber plug 357 972 841 5,6X7,8)


Modified by DanielT at 10:22 AM 5-16-2007

Quote, originally posted by DanielT »

OEM VW 357 972 765 The one to the right. The Left one corresponds to the engine harness of a 2000 VR6, therefore i'm 99% sure that the right one is what you are looking for. Make sure that you have the old style of connector like on the pictures in the beginning of this thread. Otherwise you like myself with the new kind of connector on their coilpack needs the 6X0 973 825 instead. These are empty housings. Appropriate crimp/solder pins to match these connector housings is needed for a complete setup.

that does in deed look like what i'm after.. i will have to call up a dealer and see if they can get that part

oh, hey did there happen to be a part number for the pin/connectors for this plug? they are slightly different than the type i had to get for the 7 pin plug (junior timer vs junior power timer)

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

For later version of housing. (with one rounded edge)
000 979 134 for 1.0mm² wire
000 979 134 A for 1.0mm² wire
000 979 226 for 2.5mm² wire
000 979 226 A for 2.5mm² wire
(rubber plug 357 972 841 5,6X7,8)

14.47 @ 94.71 and stalling.

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

this is my setup i finished a while back but had to take it off for now
i can not seem to get it running right
it runs great for about 20 miles then starts to miss bad,
it droped cyl 6, then i switched the the coiles at the module,
swapped 1/6 with 2/5,
did the same thing ran great, then dropped cyl 5
so i swapped out the coil with a new one,
did the same thing,
i am trying to find a new module to try,
i have on a good stock coilpack, but i dont want to use it and mess it up

3.0T glx is here with 371whp 384wtq on 16lbs and rising

Quote, originally posted by Slayer »

well, bad news so far.. not getting spark. I stood outside in the rain from a thunderstorm (was also tornado watch ) trying to get this going, but all it does is turn over will mess with it some more tomorrow to see if maybe I have something crossed up

Someone with more recent electronic skills can verify this. I don't remember if it was pull-up or pull-down I did when I had a piggy-back ECU inline between the ECU and the ICM.

Modified by Slayer at 10:33 PM 5-19-2007

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The Bosch unit (Hüco too?) is rated for only 8-10 ampere. Actually that might be less than the OEM VR6 ICM.

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

183WHP/180WTQ (before BVH) -DixonDubs-

LM-1|Eurosport 2.5"|GHL CAI|MSD coils|10lb Fly|UR pullies|Bilstein PSS9|H&R 28mm RSB|GIAC|Pelo LSD|VF mounts|Eurospec 02J w/ 3.94|DRC 268|TT 2.0" DP|Ported Ex. mani|Wacked BVH

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3813581

1.8T NEVER LOSES!

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

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http://www.newark.com
http://www.digikey.com
http://www.mouser.com
http://www.allied.com

these are companies I deal with on an almost daily basis ordering parts for my company and you will only find top notch stuff, I'll post more companies names as I go thru the countless catalogs we have and will post pics of my progress once I get all the parts in...

O0BÜR DÜB

Yes. No standalone needed. Basically, you're taking the coilpack, removing the coils, retaining the spacer and ICM and using coils that won't crack from MSD or another source. I'm in the middle of my swap right now, but I'm waiting to see how this newfound ICM replacement will work. It'll save me the hassle of having to make a bracket to conform to the stock CP location.

Slayer and a few others are trying to replace the ICM as well. That will be awesome when it's completed because that means we're no longer a slave to VWs crappy CP.

Vortex Transaction History

from what I've read, you get a better power band, more pull, and quicker RPM increase and decrease. I didn't notice any of this.

everything did fire right up and i had absolutely no problems with the install though! the only good thing I did notice is that idle is much more solid now. i used to be able to feel slight vibrations in the seat and steering wheel when the car was idling, but not anymore.

NE Ohio: http://www.globalgarage.biz/

I hooked it up to a 12v variable power supply and the huco unit DOES fire (off the car). I was able to turn the voltage down as far as the ps would go to 1.25v and it did open the circuit on the huco unit.. the thing is that it only lets .25v through, so that to me means that it needs 1v to function.

The problem is, on startup the ecu is only sending out .5v on the trigger wires, which isn't enough to cause the huco to complete the circuit and fire the coils.

I also metered the trigger wires while I had the car running (on stock coilpack) and it was at a steady 1.4v and rose to 2.6v at 2k rpm. So.. it would seem that if I was able to get the car to at least *start*, then the huco would be able to work

I'm trying to find a way to amplify the trigger voltage on startup, or find something that requres .5v or less to actually complete the circuit

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores

how do you gap them? anyone that has these plugs can see that the dual electrodes do not have a flat tip like the regular single elctrodes. they are curved around the tip of the plug. how do you measure the gap between the center tip of the plug and the electrodes and how do you adjust it without damaging the tip?

NE Ohio: http://www.globalgarage.biz/

multi-pronged plugs do not get gapped, they come pre-set at the factory, so don't waste your time trying to adjust the gap, you'll end up getting them wrong and most likely ruin what might of been a perfect plug

anyway to find out from a Volvo owner ?
They could measure the voltage and see if it's different from the VW ecu.

well, I don't know anyone with a volvo.. let alone one that would actually have this unit

Like a fiendish tropic virus spitting bile at all you whores, Razor-sharp tongue-in-cheek poking in your open sores