We will start with the driver’s side headlight housing. You will need to heat the oven to 275 degrees. Place the headlight in the oven for 2-3 minutes to soften the silicone used to seal the headlight housing to the lens. Remove the headlight and immediately start prying the lens from the housing around the entire perimeter using a small flathead screwdriver (you want to work as quickly, but as gently, as possible as the silicone will obviously harden back up as it cools). Carefully insert the head between the lens and housing and twist. Don't do it too hard, or you will crack the housing or lens. Also, understand that you may be putting slight divots in the housing as you twist, but don't worry about it. If you want to try a different way, be my guest, as long as you get the gist of how to separate these things. By now, it should start to slowly separate. I wouldn't recommend trying to get it fully apart on this first round as the silicone will probably already have started to harden back up by the time you make your way around the entire light. So, back in the oven it goes for two more minutes. Take it back out, but this time use a larger headed screwdriver to get a better separation. Eventually it should separate and you should be able to start pulling it apart by hand.
Now that these are separated, you will see that the CCFL's and blinker lenses are attached to another inner housing that will need to come apart from the headlamp housing. Guess what... back into the oven, but only for a minute this time. The inner housing is held in by tabs and silicone. You will need to put each light back into the oven for 1 minute to get the silicone hot enough to soften it and be able to pull the tabs out of their respective spots. Be careful once you pull them out because the CCFL's have wiring attached to them that comes out of the back of the housing. This wiring should be able to be pulled in and out through the grommets in the back but just be careful. You don't want to tug too hard and rip apart the wiring.
These are the two top tabs that connect to the headlight housing
These are the two bottom tabs that connect to the headlight housing
On the driver’s side headlight, the projector is held in by a screw located on the bottom right side of the projector housing (if you are facing the front of the car and looking at the lights)…
…as well as these two screws (which are used to adjust the projector)…
The first screw is simple to remove. The adjustment screws just need to keep being turned until the projector comes out, alternating back and forth between the two to keep the projector moving evenly outward.
Once the projector is removed it will look like this…
On the back of the housing are four screws that need to be removed to separate the lens from the lens from the back of the housing. Once these are separated, you will see that the cutoff shield is sandwiched between them, as so…
… and comes right off with a light pull.
Note the orientation of the cutoff shield. If you picture the bulb behind it shining outward, you might wonder how you get the e-code pattern from this one that looks opposite. Well, that’s just it. The projector lens flips the light upside down, and left to right. To better visualize this, I have drawn a horizontal and vertical axis in this picture…
Now, just picture the escaping light being flipped over the x-axis, then again over the y-axis, and BAM…. your e-code pattern.
Speaking of the e-code pattern… you probably aren’t happy with it if you’re using HID’s in these bad boys, which is the whole basis of this thread. So, let’s get to the meat of this whole thing…
Now that you understand how the cutoff shield pattern looks and works, you should now have an idea of what you need to do in order to make it better. Personally, I was not happy with the runoff to the right and up because I drive on highways a lot and it looks like it would be blinding people in the right hand lanes. Sure, it’s great for me and I’ve never seen so many well lit signs off the right side of the road in my life, but it’s just not respectful to others.
So, here we go… we begin with a sheet of aluminum flashing (or whatever your choice of thin material to cut), tin snips, and the original cutoff shield.
Simply place the shield onto the flashing and trace an exact copy of it (sans e-code cutoff), as such… *NOTE: FINISH READING BEFORE YOU ACTUALLY DO THIS*
I chose to make an exact copy so I could drill the holes to match up to the original as well so it wouldn’t move around.
Now, we can start to figure out the exact cutoff we’d like. Personally, I didn’t want too straight of a line, so I wanted to make the cutoff look like so…
So, after some very, very meticulous cutting with the tin snips, I end up with this…
Here is a view of it overlaid onto the original cutoff shield (with the copper colored side of the flashing showing for contrast purposes)…
Now, you can drill another hole in the middle to hold it in place, as many of the tutorials do…
(front)
(back)
However, I will share a little info here (and this is the reason for the NOTE above). Drilling a hole on such a thin sheet of material will cause some warping issues, which will alter the cutoff color at the line (ask me how I know). So, after countless times of trying this, re-cutting, trying again… I decided to go a different route.
This time, I didn’t cut an exact copy of the shield, but only a partial covering; a sort of half circle shape, as shown here…
...and the reverse side…
I then simply super glued these together with copious amounts of it to make sure if it ever did heat up enough to start melting, there would be plenty to hold it in place.
Ultimately, you may go either route. If you went with a thicker material, then you probably wouldn’t have problems with warping from drilling. So, it is up to you.
And, that’s it. Put the cutoff back into the projector, bolt it back up, and check out your new cutoff. This is what I got from each projector…
…not bad. It was pretty much what I was going for since I wanted a sort of hybrid between the e-code and typically sharp-lined cutoff found on many stock applications (I mean, I did pay for the e-code pattern, why get totally rid of it?). However, note how such a small step in the new cutoff shape can lead to a rather large step in actual light output.
Repeat the same procedure for the passenger side headlight except for one minor difference. When removing the projector on this one, the one screw holding it in on the front is located on the top left (if you are facing the front of the car and looking at the lights)…
…rather than the bottom right as was the case with the driver’s side housing. Other than that, it’s the same deal.
So, here’s the fun part. Aiming the lights…. Ugh. Here is how you aim them (if you didn’t already know)…
So, after putting the lights on, taking them off, adjusting, putting them back on (repeat 3423x)…. I went from this pattern (with horrible light run-off up and to the right)...
...to this pattern...
… SWEET.
However, you will notice the tiny blur on the left projector’s cutoff step due to an extremely slight burr that I made on the original cutoff while cutting. 
So again, I stress the importance of such small changes on the cutoff and such large changes in actual output.
Regardless, it is something that I am just ready to live with. I’ve spent enough time on these. Not a bad beam pattern for a $300 set of lights with cheap halogen projectors and an e-code cutoff.
Once they’re all aimed and you’re happy, simply pick up some black (or clear) RTV, put it in the appropriate spots, and seal them back up.
Good luck and enjoy your new (less obnoxious for people in the right lanes) HID projectors 
Modified by FliGi7 at 12:28 AM 11-20-2007
f it