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Alright never done one of these and few of my buddies have with their engines or cars so what the hell let me try it out.

Alright im sick of my stock 8v, and want to do something over the winter/ when i get bored so i decided to build.




(92 vw gti, Cali car with check engine light, Digi 1 8v)

This is going to be a slow build and a somewhat budget build. I hope to have a one stop place for other people wanting to do a 16v ITB setup on mega squirt. Im planning on taking my time so it might be a while before complete.

Kinda like a huge how to.

The vortex has helped me out a ton and i feel like i should give back some how.
Feel free to chime in if you feel that im doing something backwards or you have a better way to do it.

Alright first thing I bought was a 2.0 16v. The bottom end was rebuilt by some engine builder out in CEPA, I took most of it apart today and it seems to look good. I got a killer deal on it $150 for a 2.0 rebuilt bottom end, 1.8l 16v head, and extra 1.8l block with pistons, and tons of random 16v engine pieces.

My iphone messed up while taking the other pics so thats all i got of the engine. I might add more later.

I also forgot to take a picture of the head before i started to disassemble but its basically a super dirty used 1.8l 16v head (we all know what those look like). Here is when i start to find out why i got such a killer deal on everything. The lower intake mani was stuck onto the head. The bolts that hold the lower mani were stripped out and my only option was to drill out the bolts to get them apart.

nothing glamours but its a start to the project. I basically disassembled the whole head while still leaving the valves and buckets inplace. The head has no cracks just a little old and can use a rebuild like im doing.

When i got the mani off of the head i discovered the head was prob left outside for some time. (probably a junk yard find that he pulled) Take a look at the intake ports!!

can you find the hidden treasure in one <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.verruckt.com/smile/halloween_pumpkin3.gif" BORDER="0"> so ya good thing im going to be doing a P&P along with hot tanking the head to get all that crud out of it.

I guess do you think i can save the valves? they probably just need to be buffed up you think or is it a bad idea to reuse them?

After I got done cleaning my mess up from drilling the bolt heads out. I got my sawzall out and eyeballed up the lower mani, then went to town. Like I said this will be a budget build so I plan to try and keep it simple.

Thats it for today, ill post some of the other stuff I bought tomorrow.
Stay Tuned!!

<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.verruckt.com/smile/halloween_pumpkin3.gif" BORDER="0">

Modified by LO-vw at 3:22 PM 10-16-2008

Modified by LO-vw at 3:35 PM 10-16-2008

Modified by LO-vw at 3:13 PM 6-21-2009

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space

Well in the past week or so ive been slowly collecting parts.

I got some GSXR 750 ITB's they are 45 inlet i believe and 42mm exit. I scored these for 50 bux on ebay!!

Reason I went with the 42mm size was, Cost, ease of tuning (it seemed like alot of other people used them with tuning success), and im going with mild upgrades for most of the build.

At h20 I scored some racing valve springs from autotech for $85 bux!!

and a 1.8t fuel rail with FPR for around $20 shipped

I have some other stuff in the mail hopefully and ill post when I receive them with around the price I paid so people can get an idea.

If anyone has any new or newish parts laying around for a build like this please let me know as im in need

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DOPE SHIZZ LIVES!!!

...Or else

times two

FS: 1993 Miata w/ Hardtop

'85 Jetta partout!

'82 Rabbit partout!

B3 GLX partout!

Bringin' the shit show

thanks for the help guys!

that red thing in the intake port in the first pic is some electrical connector that was tossed down in the intake lol it will come out just thought it might add some extra CFM for now so it will stay in there until it gets cleaned

The combustion chambers look real clean and i didn't see any cranks. I will double check today but from that aspect it looks good. I was kinda shocked how ugly the intake ports are because the rest of the head looks no where near that bad condition.

Ill be taking the head to P&R here soon (724 837 7590 so i don't forget the number) They are going to hot tank it along with 3 angle valve job, deck it, and disassemble/reassemble. I know how to disassemble the head and re assemble however I hate using that huge c clamp thing and i don't have any of the tools for access for free. If i would buy the tool it might come out a tad cheaper but im not that worried i've been real busy laity so its one less thing to worry about.

I have a better camera so i need to find that as well.

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I took out the choke plates and rods along with the whole controller and fuel rail.
Those are going on ebay if anyone wants them...

Next ill have to go to the hardware store and find some bungs/plugs to plug the holes in the ITBs where the old choke plates went. you can see the holes going through the side of the body.

Along with the fuel injector.
I dont know what to do with this area.... part of me says just plug it, and part of me says find some Nitrous injectors and tap them for nitrous down the road....

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RMU Radio - Tune In!

P - I - Z- Z- A!!

.:<>Robert Morris University Engineering<>:.

Crooked Euros...I myself am an oceangoing predatory animal...Would you be so kind as to fellate me?

dci

DOPE SHIZZ LIVES!!!

As for right now I dont plan on using a Map sensor so i should be good.

From what I Gather I only need 2 vacuum lines. one for the brakes and one for the FPR (and tap in some place to run my vents in the cabin)

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This (i guess) is easier to tune with the TPS vs MAP based tuning.
Ive tuned with TPS in the past and thats what I was hoping to do again

Modified by LO-vw at 6:01 PM 10-6-2008

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So I was bored and did some real basic measurements using some string and a tape measure.
I wanted to get an idea on how long i needed to make the runners to get a "tuned" length. I just didn’t want to slap everything together and hope my length is decent.

I’m no pro at any of this but i do it for fun.
I need to call TT and ask them at what RPM does the 276 :hint hint: make peak power, and at what RPM is the header tuned for (I would like to use the TT but dont know if money will allow it right now).

I want to get everything kinda close IF I can but i don't think that’s going to happen with the ITB's but it will be close i hope.

I did a few calculations using 3ed wave for induction (2ed is better but nothing im doing is perfect and 2ed wave is harder to accomplish in tight areas.)

So the lengths that I have come up with and the following RPM
A tuned runner at 4000 RPM I would need around a 24” runner length
A tuned runner at 6000 RPM I would need around a 16” runner length

At my old job we would just rapid prototype some runners and throw it on the dyno for a few tests and find out some actual real life data, well I cant do that so off I go to measure what Im working with already nothing bolted up

So my basic measurements are
valve to cylinder head port =3.25"
My cut and not finished intake mani = 2.25"
and the throttle body length is=3.5"
So im looking around 9" with out anything coupled together.
So then I went to my car for a rough estimate of how much room im working with. I measured from my 8v head to the upper rad support. This gives me around 14”. If I work out my radiator issues (drop it lower or use a different radiator) then I might be able to get around 18” or more to the front of the grill.

So ill need some long silicone couplers, welded pipe or real long bell mouths

Now I have some things to think about and hopefully some of you masters of the art can chime in and let me know what you think about my calculations.

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On a side note I got First Place on Sunday in the MK2 class.

Got some Freebies from my buddy Geoff he is building a sick 2.0 1.8t and most of his stuff is hand made.
He sent me this stuffs

I was super excited for this stuff ( I guess i just always assumed) however the power steering runs off a V belt on the ABA.... and ya I don't want that... So anyone know how to run one serp belt and keep my power steering?

Due to my clearance issues with the road i also got my Oil pan reinforced.

I also sent out my ABA crank pulley to get machined.
Some more stuff should be coming any day now as well.

I need to get alot of parts sand blasted and Powder coated so thats going to take some time as well.

Worst comes to worst ill take out the P/S but i dont really want to do that.

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'85 Jetta partout!

'82 Rabbit partout!

B3 GLX partout!

Bringin' the shit show

██████ Wear Yellow, support the L.A.F. ██████

Quote, originally posted by LO-vw »

griz is the shiz

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I needed to find some tubing that was close to the inner diameter of the ITBs and manifold to keep the cross section consistent. 16 gauge 1.75" od aluminum tubing fit the bill perfectly - 1.62" id

I originally bought two 90 degree mandrel aluminum bends from http://www.velocityair.cc/stockelbows.htm The plan was to cut them in half at the bend, squish them down to the oval port shape, then have them welded on.

Here's the mock-up

They didn't squish real well, since the mandrel bending made the outer radius thinner than the inner radius, so it just kinda flattened the outside. I got it close, but they just seemed to be too short for my liking.

So I bought four 45 degree 1.75" aluminum bends, cut 2" off one leg from each one, squished it down nicely, and with very little grinding, was able to wedge them inside the manifold. Once it's welded up, I'll smooth the transition out internally. Then to match the 1.9" od of the ITBs, I took the 2" sections I cut off, cut them lenthwise, and put them over the tube ends, and it's almost perfect match, just needs a little weld filler. I'm hoping some 1.875" straight coolant hose from NAPA will work as a coupler, I haven't had a chance to buy some yet.

I'll try and snap some pics of it tomorrow.

I have some ideas on what to run and most dont involve using long lengths of silicone tube, but thanks! Follow up pictures would be cool! What final length did you decide on for your runners.

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Quote, originally posted by steveo27 »

Ditch the PS stuff. i did on mine and have looked back, and its been over 2 years now

That's because you live in bumpkinville. I like being able to parallel park.

Crooked Euros...I myself am an oceangoing predatory animal...Would you be so kind as to fellate me?

dci

Ultimately, runner length is dictated by the amount of room available. These are 8" long, which gives me about 8" of room to the core support brace. I have the same ITBs with the original rubber horns, which is 5.5" in length, only leaving about 2.5" for an air filter to fit.
The manifold is about an 1", and you measured the port length at 3.25", which gives me a total length of almost 18"

I can probably extend it an inch if need be, or easily subtract length, I haven't decided how long it should be yet, I'm thinking a target of 5500 RPM (4K to 7K RPM band) that gives ~16" length

I tried to mock up the ABA serpentine setup (A/C bracket), and it wouldn't fit at all, so that's one thing you need to watch out for.

Modified by xr4tic at 11:18 PM 10-17-2008

Modified by xr4tic at 11:40 PM 10-17-2008

The message on my passenger Door Mirror reads: "OBJECTS IN THE MIRROR ARE LOSING

Nothing to fancy but went out and bought some 5/16x18 allen head plugs, a drill bit, and a tap.

Then went to town and drilled and taped the old choke plate holes.

then you just put the plug in my camera battery died so no pic.

Next i want to plug the injector hole. Here is where IDK what to do. I want to just go get some Brass barb hardware 3/16 x 1/8 barb and tapered pipe thread fittings and make sure I have enough vacuum lines for the brakes and FPR.
The Throttle bodies have 3 taps for vacuum connections on each body, two in front of the plate and 1 behind the plate.

Im thinking this is enough for hook ups but I dont want to have to redo it down the road.
My other idea is to either just plug the holes or put Nitrous injectors in the holes but I need to find some injectors and get an idea of the thread size first.

I got some real cool parts in the mail but one got damaged in shipping so its at the post office to see ill get the insurance money, and the other one some how shipped to my parents house so ya i have them but I dont

Im going to clean up my mess and probably try and attempt to tear down each throttle body so i can clean everything and throw stuff in the Powder coat pile

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My 16vg60 build

Summit racing delivered my P&P kit today, well in the pictures online they make it look so tiny i thought i could use it with my dremel but ya... got to go buy an electric drill now that has a shank size like an air grinder.

In other news ive been scratch away at this Fuc|< tard valve cover.

Ive never polished anything like this before so i wanted to try it well ya, i figured out why i never polished anything before lol its a bitch .

here it is at 60 grit.
Man my shoulder and arm have grown like 2 inchs sanding away at this thing lol

I would still be working on it but i thought i would be getting some trick or treaters today so i stopped to await their arrival but i guess no one does it around here. if my arm stops hurting ill continue tomorrow.

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