Alright im starting this thread now but im not really all the way there on my parts yet to start the swap over but Im making a detailed list of all the parts that I have had to get so far...book mark this one.... lots of updates and Pictures for everyone looking to do this swap..... ill credit elRey for doing this first... he gave me the idea and i used a lot of his information to get my build going....
Here is a picture of the ride right now
Here is the Parts list i have so far...... I figured that if im going to tear apart the block and replace the piston rings i fried.... I better replace everything else or i might blow the welds on my intake
Parts List
- 3 1/4" Flex Hone (Search eBay thats where i got mine from)
- Head Bolts -> 91290A560 -> http://www.mcmaster.com
For Canadians like me - contact http://www.motionindustries.com and give them the link to the mcmaster headbolts... they can order them for you as mcmaster wont ship to canada
- Digifant Injector Seats
- 16V head Gasket Kit
- 16V Piston Rings
- 16V Throttle Body Gasket
- MKIV 2L Throttle Body Gasket
- AEG or 16V Upper Downpipe Gasket
- 16 Plug Wires
- 1.8T Trigger Wheel (ill post a part number later)
- 1.8T Cam Position Sensor
- Valve Guides (4 or 8 you really only need to do the 4 exhaust ones)
- 16v tensioner
- gasket remover
- automatic transmission fluid for honer
- AEG (99-01 2L) Downpipe
- Lexus GS300 3.0L FI Timing Belt
- 2004 Golf 2L Timing Belt Kit (I got mine from FCP Groton got a great deal - Free Shipping no Duty/Brokerage to Canada)
Timing belt and Tensioner (you cant use either so I would try and trade them for the 1.8T tensioner of you can)
Water Pump with Metal Impeller
Thermosat
Sepentine Belt
Camshaft Seal
Crankshaft Seal)
- 1.8T (Late Model) Camshaft Gear (Part Number to follow)
- 1.8T (Late Model) Timing Belt Tensioner (Part Number to Follow)
- Lower 16V intake Manifold
- Upper 16V Scirocco Intake Manifold
-16V Exhaust Manifold
- Complete Head with Cams and Coolant Flanges and Valve Cover
- I MUST enphasis that you want it complete.... make sure you get all the exhuast
studs and intake studs.... also all of the bolts to hold the intake and valve cover
onto the head.... all of these bolts and nuts add up to a lot..... trust me i had to
buy them.... the less of them you hvae to buy the better off youll be)
-Bahn Brenner MkII T-Body Adaptor to 3" ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_..._to_3 )
- Fabricated 2.0L Throttle Body Plate/Flange (I molded this piece off the MKIV 2L TB Gasket)
- Fabricated 2.0L Coolant Flange
- Two O-Rings from the MKIV side Coolant Flange (one is for the sensor)
- 2L 16V (9A) Pistons
- 2L 16V (9A) / 1.8T Rods / Integrated Engineering or pauter 20mm x 144mm
- Nuts and or Bolts for Connecting Rods (if you dont go aftermarket)
- MKIV 2L Rod Bearings
- Plastigauge (Get a couple incase you screw it up)
- 16V Distributer
- Distributer Shims and Washers (cant be purchased seperately without the distributor so save them)
- Bahn Brenner 16V Fuel Rail ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_...l_Kit )
- Bahn Brenner MKIII/MKIV FPR Adaptor ( http://www.bahnbrenner.com/med...=1833 ) - (Use this with AEG/AVH/AZG - Not required for BBW or BEV Engine Codes)
- Some Rags
- Volkswagen G12 Coolant
- Assembly Lube
- 5L of 5W40
- Oil Filter
- Throttle Body Cleaner for the Pistons
- 99 (beetle) AEG PCV Valve Cover Oil Cap
- Painters Tape
- Zip Lock Bags for bolts and Nuts (I loose bolt and nuts all the time and tearing apart and engine I needed something to label so i wont loose them)
- Liquid Gasket
- Lower Intake Manifold Side Block Off Plate (Custom)
- Front Head Coolant Flange Block Off Plate (Custom)
- Injector O-Rings (Not required for new injectors)
- 3/4" Brass/Copper "T" Fitting (Home Depot)
- 1 Foot of 3/8" Heater Hose
- Hose Clamps (I got a few not sure home many ill need but ill update this when im done)
- Volkswagen Power Steering Fluid
Turbo Parts List
This is a list that may change at any time as I currently am still researching parts and obviously with turbo there are other routes you can take - im adding this here because i have come across a few things that I learned i needed for this build
- 38mm External Waste Gate (1 BAR Spring)
- 2x38mm Wastegate gaskets (in talking to a number of people these will probably blow out so dont even bother)
- 38mm wastegate flange (ull need this for your downpipe)
- 16V Turbo Exhaust Manifold (Check the classifieds)
- Garrett T3/T4 57 Trim
- t3 Turbo exhuast Flange (ull need this for the custom exhuast)
- Assorted piping for exhaust and wastegate and intercooler (I bought a number of UJ Bends)
- MKV 2.5L Ignition Coils (Part# 07K 905 715 F)
- 1.8T (late model MKIV) ECU
- 1.8T (Late model MKIV) Wiring Harness
Wiseco 16V Pistons (You can use the stock ones but i decided to get these they didnt need to be trimmed)
- T3 Oil Inlet and Return Flanges (With Gaskets)
- 1.8T Oil Return Line
- 1.8T Clutch Kit (I bought this one from fourseasonstuning.com http://www.fourseasontuning.com/?product=595)
- Rear Main Seal (I bought one I figured if im going to be in there i might aswell change it)
Tools List
- Engine Lift and/or Car Jacks and Jackstands
- 1/2" "T" or "L" shaped Allen Key
- Metric Allen Key Set
- Large Socket Set
- Torque Wrench
- Impact Gun (although you dont need it is does make somethings easier)
- Small Punch
- Hammer
- Vise Grips
- Spot Welder
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Scissors and/or Xacto Knife
- Hacksaw
- Wrench Set (Youll need various size all the way up to 27mm for the oil filter housing)
- If you plan on painting your block and or tranny I would Highly recommend an Engine paint kit for POR15 (Google it there is a canadian and and american site)
will expand this list when i start the build
Connecting Rod Install - Credit Jazzpur
Before you start you should definitely watch these videos.... they are for a 1.8T but they contain a lot of useful information on honing your block..... i figured im in there... im doing it
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4375646
Starting out ....
The Three major parts of this install that looks to be the hardest are the Trigger Wheel install, The Intake TB Mounting, and the Side Coolant Flange
The Trigger Wheel
The Trigger Wheel install was the part that i most dredded before i did it.... mainly because i was sure i would screw it up and it would cost me my arm..... after I got the trigger piece ordered which only cost me $13CDN i relaxed a little
To Install the Trigger wheel the easiest way is to disassemble the 16V distributer..... on the bottoms of the distributer youll see a little coil wrapped around the black piece I used a razorblade to get under it and then remove the coil..... youll notice underneather there is a little pin holding it on youll need a punch to get it out I had to put the black piece in a vise and then hammer the pin out it was pretty tight
After you remove the pinyou should be able to pull the post through the distributer...... watch the washers and gaskets in there.... youll need them in the right order when you put them back together
I took a shop towel and wrapped it around the post and placed it in a vise... then used a cutting wheel to remove the edges of the 16V Wheel
After that i took the 1.8T Trigger Wheel and Placed it over top to get the right fit and used a spot welder to get them together
Here are pictures of the final product
reassemble in reverse
The Side Coolant Flange
This one was a little Worrisome because I was originally going to use elRey's design but i was quoted $300 bucks for this one piece so i decided to try something else.....
I used the Original Piece from the 16V cut it down like the picture below and welded on the custom plate I made for it myself for free
The Custom Plate really wasnt that Hard I borrowed a coolant flange from the dealer (I loaned them my $30 bucks) and got a piece of scrap aluminum from a metal shop for free
All you need to do is mark the line around the MKIV flange and then cut it out with whatever you got i used a cutting wheel...... then mark the holes and drill them out..... then if you have access to some BIG ASS bits you can drill the hole out to match the one in the old 16V one... I used a small bit and then used a dremel to get it close...... once i got it welded up I went back with the dremel and opened it up a little more
after you get this plate made now is the perfect op to go to Home Depot with the MKIV Flange and get yourself 2 Nuts 2 Bolts and 2 Washers (I dont know if i needed them but it cant hurt)
Here are pictures of my Final Product
Throttle Body Custom Adaptor
I ordered myself one of the 3" MKII Throttle Body Flanges from Bahn Brenner (Link Above in the Parts) I dont have much information on this yet but my intention is to take the custom MKIV 2L TB Plate im making and get it welded to the 3" BBM Flange and then mount my TB to that.... im going to have to test fit the parts together when i get them and check clearances to see if i need a bent or not..... but ill keep it posted in here
Pistons (Machining)
I give credit to elRey for the image in this section i didnt have a 5th 16v piston to do a comparison of all three but he did so here is his information for this section
The pistions had to be machined a bit to clear the oil squiters to be fair i didnt know what i was looking for when i first did the machining and i missed the cutout make sure you take a close look at the middle piston you not only have to machine it down to the same height as the MKIV 2L piston but you also have to cut that little notch out like you see on the left side of the middle piston
I highly recommend that you have 1 MKIV 2L piston available if you want to do this work prior to tearing apart your engine
AZG(AEG/BEV/BBW) - modified 9A - stock 9A
Like i noted above i forgot that little notch i didnt notice it when i first looked at the picture so i had to take my pistons back to the machine shop to get that part cut out 
the problem was i didnt know looking at the 16V pistons where to put the notch so i took the MKIV piston to the dealer and found out which direction the piston went in and made note of where the cutout on the MKIV piston was and that location is the front of the engine take note of the pistons in the picture below the red dots are the corners that you need to make the cutout for the oil squirters
make note of where the cutouts are on the top of the pistons in relation to the dots and youll be set
Removing and Installing Digi Injector Seats
As I was warned by a friend of mine taking out the old injector seats in not a fun and easy job......originally I thought a set of clamps on them would be able to loosen them.... no worky... you need a rather large and hard to find 1/2 Allen Key to complete the job either that or a VW specialty tool
Once they are out if you have the chance to sand blast your intake now would be a good time to get all the crud out that builds up in the threads and gaps....
I cant remember size to put the new seats on but it was a much smaller size you should have in any normal allen key set
NOTE: 1" allen key sockets are too short for this you will need the "L" or "T" Shaped ones
Pictures of the final product
Rebuilding the Head
Considering that you are taking the time do do this install you might aswell replace everything you can in the head
I was going to do this part myself but after realising i didnt have all the tools I just decided to let the local vw shop do it for me......
youll want to have valve guide and valve seals..... you may need new lifters and if your planning boost later now would be a good time to put in the heavy duty valve springs
I paid a local shop $100 bucks to replace the guides and seals and put the head back together for me in my eyes well worth it for the aggravation and the cost to buy tools i would have needed
Preparing the Engine Bay by combining some vacuum lines
On the Suggestion of elRey I did a little house keeping in my engine bay..... one part I did today the other part to the other side of the engine including the PCV I will detail when I do the swap it only makes sense to wait until I get the new valve cover and PCV on before i start testing new hoses
If you Followed the parts required from the top grab your 3/4" "T" Coupler and your 3/8" Heater Hose. Cut about 3 inches off the heater hose and connect your lines like the picture below
Using the Diagram from below i labels the different locations for the hoses..... for timid people this may help so you know where everything goes (Use Hose Clamps where required)
The Before picture show what you have now
1 - Connection to Plastic Vacuum Tube (To Disconnect - One the top of the connector there is a white button push on it and pull up on the connector)
2 - The is where the EVAP Line goes in the the connector (3) which goes under the Intake and to the TB
3 - connector which goes under the Intake and to the TB
4 - other end of Hose coming from the vacuum line
If you are doing your 16V swap right now you are done
If not you will need to block off the open vacuum port on the side of your intake
I used a 3/16" Vacuum plug that i picked up at Canadian Tire (AutoZone) and poped that one there
Keep watching for more information
Modified by duke_seb at 11:10 AM 6-13-2009
Modified by duke_seb at 8:11 PM 8-23-2009
Modified by duke_seb at 7:10 PM 11-14-2009
Modified by duke_seb at 7:52 PM 11-18-2009
Modified by duke_seb at 1:24 PM 12-6-2009
View my MKIV 2.0L 16V Turbo Build
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4410956
http://www.customobsessions.com Creating Trends not Following them!
