Im blown away.

Now come over my house and we can clean that bay up proper.

Nate, saw ur car up close and personal and even waved to ya'll
when ya'lled rolled in for the BBQ - DOPE ASS RIDE!

C0MING S00N

>>you need this<<

My Coupe 16v Build

Congrats Anthony Anthony Anthony on the accomplishment. My mind was blown on Sunday when I actually got to take a good look at everything

I got to see this project from the start to where it is today.

Afazz has dedicated pretty much all of his free time to this build the last couple of years. Anytime I needed to get in touch with him he was at the shop working on the Jetta.

I was one of the lucky ones who knew about this from the beginning. It was awesome to go see the Jetta every few weeks to see the progress.

that vac box is whats used to open/close your A/c vents. When I pulled mine out they were stuck open and I couldnt close them. I stuck a bolt in the end of the vac line and I can open and shut them now.

for someone that thinks like an engineer and not just a punk with a slammed ride

you said my set is in the mail right?

however it sounds like you left the line un-capped which would cause a vacuum leak.

very, very sick AFAZZ. i have been waiting so long to see what you were doing i nearly forgot!
definitely worth the wait. a true pioneer. you are one of the brave ones.

Quote, originally posted by autohlam »

so it is good, laughter increases the life

but you essentially said what i did.....i just didnt know it was for low vac situations...but it still is used to control the vents

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F^¢k You!

...but Tyler GOT THAT

Quote, originally posted by MKIII’s KING »

I GOT THAT! I GOT THAT! I GOT THAT! oh. priceless.

you had to be there 09'. I've never seen rob so excited to see a car

Quote, originally posted by Waagenz »

Impressive work. The car looks amazing in person.

waagz you were there?

Quote, originally posted by Sandlock »

you had to be there 09'. I've never seen rob so excited to see a car

i've never heard metal jay not say anything before.

I Adaptec Speedware

btw, you have PM.

FS: 01 JETTA 1.8T AUTO

MK3; about as tight as a cougar

Jokes Over.

Quote, originally posted by Sandlock »

you had to be there 09'. I've never seen rob so excited to see a car

damn straight.
well worth the 2 years of sporadic IMs.
that car is more then inspiration; it's a template.

I test-fit the new shortened front struts, removed the rear shocks complete, and laid the car down.

The car was parked up on two 2x6's, then two 2x6's were placed under the frame. It laid out, with the front shocks bolted in place

Things were pretty bound up in the front, but it still laid. Tie rod notches and drivers side c-notch in order.

Here's a comparison of the old H&R Ultra Low with the new, shortened Koni.

Then the ugly truth comes out. The rear beam just isn't gonna cut it.

Forward tuck... not low enough... can't roll at this height... more metal must move. Lots of it.

Like all this metal. Permanently added to the "notgonnagobackin" pile.

Even some plastic made the chopping block!

And all this... bye bye!

Now with all that pesky crap out of the way, it's starting to look like a proper stance again!

The inner fenders would have to be tubbed also, but that's minor. Now what should I do with the suspension??

So I consulted my buddy Mitchell for his vehicle dimensions.

And had a front mk3 subframe laying around. Now I had seen this done before on a track prepped corrado in the Suspension tuning forums. One blurry pic and a few measurements were enough to convince me it was possible. On to some test fits!

Hey that frame rail is pretty close to the mounting point... this could work!

It looks pretty good under there!

So here is the master plan, drawn quite well with CAD. Or a pen on a dirty piece of paper.

Left is toward the front, right is toward the rear. The area just above the left side of the drawing (forward mounting ponits) is just below the seat crossmember. This is where the rear seatbelts bolt in, and is a heavy structural section of the car. This is one of the strongest places in the unibody, making it well suited for the loads of a suspension. The rear mounting points are right below the frame rails. Plating will be added and mounts will be made, with some tubular bracing into the existing structures.

Now most of the mid-engine IRS setups use the subframe mounted in the stock orientation, with the pancake bushing toward the rear and the tie rod behind the rear axle centerline. This is nice for motor packaging, but reversing the subframe allows it to integrate much better into the strongest parts of the unibody. Since I won't have a motor back there, I plan to reverse it. The frame rails just below the rear arches are super strong, the seat crossmember is already very well reinforced, and the stock beam mounts are right there and available to have braces welded in the area. It's almost like it was supposed to fit there!

Dinnertime, more updates later

HELLAFAST

The rear fender cutting begins. I knew early on the corner of the door would be the holdup, I wanted to be sure that wouldn't keep me from getting max low.

At this point I realize how ridiculous this has become. The rubber studs that hold the clip-in rear molding section will need to be moved, since they will hit the tire

After the trimming, the wheel could still tuck but could be brought out much closer to the fender, with much less camber too.

I started stripping the trunk sound deadener where I would need to cut out the floor, to make the cuts cleaner and make cleaning and welding easier later down the road

I stripped the undercoating from some key areas below the floor where the subframe would mount

here's a bottom view of the new clean slate!

Feb 3, 2009. Floor is gone.

I took out the subframe and took some measurements from it, comparing them against my Mitchell book.

Feb 4 '09,
I begin taking measurements for the rear axle centerline. I used two methods and compared them. The first was to trace the steel arch on the unibody, then use geometry to find the center of the circle, assuming it was a perfect circle

Then I stretched a string, level with the bottom of the doors, to the rear bumper. I found the center of the opening

When comparing the two, they were almost identical, so I could use either as a way to center my subframe.

The black dot on the string is the centerline using method #2, the intersecting lines drawn on the paper are using method #1.

Feb 9 '09,
I marked the centerline onto the frame rails, then used my previous measurements to determine roughly where the subframe mounts would weld, and cut out the pinch weld in that area.

Then I welded the two panels together and ground it smooth, since the area would be plated and then re-welded again.

I did the passenger side too

Then I made the rearward mounting points for the subframe from 3/16" steel plate, with a 14mm hole drilled through. The stock holes are 15mm with 12mm bolts for plenty of alignment slop, I will be doing all my welding using 14mm bolts in 14mm holes to minimize any distortion.

Here they are mounted to the subframe

It fit nicely into the plated section

You can see the pink strings I used to cetner everything up, which were suspended on jackstands and dozens of careful measurements were taken.

I mounted a strut into the stock upper mounts, and threw on a wheel

Now this is where things get interesting.

With the axle centerline placed directly on the arch centerline, within 1/16" accuracy, the wheel looked too far back. After some confused thinking, there are many optical illusions at play here. I will need to call in reinforcements here.

In the meantime, I decided to build a new rack since I won't need steering in the rear.

Feb 15, 2009
I removed the rack gear from a stock rack, and welded it up on spacers to bolt to the stock rack location.

Don't worry, those were reinforced later. This was just to get everything in place without the bulky rack in my way.

I also did some more stripping under the rear seats so I could weld on the bottom side without contaminating the weld.