Due to much peer pressure (and my overall coolness) I have decided to start this thread to hopefully serve as a resource as well as try to help cut down on the much-repeated questions in our thread that serve to add to the frustruation level here.

Please add appropriate material to this thread; the things that are repeated will be deleted unless the general concensus is that they are more complete than the one that they come after. Please treat this as a working, breathing, living document and hopefully WE MkII'ers can lead the other forums by example.

Carry on.....

Click the image to get The Bible

[Modified by 16v, 1:31 AM 11-29-2002]

[Modified by vwtoys, 8:30 PM 10-30-2002]

THIS THREAD IS NOT FOR QUESTIONS, IT IS FOR ANSWERS Thanks for understanding

REPLACING SPEDOMETER CABLE/TEARING APART DASH

look into buying it used or online or some place other then the dealership. it is not too hard for a novice mechanic, but it will take a while to tear apart a dash for your first time (first time 1 hour second time 5 min. ) the trick to doing this right is to pull the spedo cable from the tranny first, that is why so many suffer soo much with this. tell you what I will walk you through it.

tools needed: #2 phillips, #3 phillips, any flat head

1. pull the knob and dials off the climate control guage
2. pull on climate control guage
3. remove radio (good luck)
4. remove switch blanks (pull)
5. remove switches (push from rear of dash with figers) then disconnect from wires (pull on the plug not the wires)
6. remove swrews holding inner dash (not the cluster) in place 2 at top of guage cluster, one on top of radio (I leave this one out so I don't have to pull my radio to pull my dash) 3 holding climate control (these are larger then all others) one behind headlight switch, one behind bottom left of the 6 switches
7. remove the black plastic dash
8. remove the 2 screws holding the cluster in place top right and left
9. make sure the spedo cable is undone from the tranny and the screw is stored properly, like on top of the radiator support
10. lift up and out on the cluster until you can see the plugs (some have 2 some have 1) on the bottom (use the flathead to unlock the plug the pull on the plug (not the wires!)
11. remove guage cluster replace not attaching it to the tranny until the end

"Becareful as there are two different speedo cables. One is a one piece unit from the trans to the cluster. The other is a 2-piece unit which runs from the trans to an O2 service indicator at the firewall and then to the cluster. Make sure you get the correct one." - 1987&2001Jettas

MY REVERSE LIGHTS DON'T WORK

this is a little switch on the transaxle (it is not a transmission, they are for rear wheel drive vehicles) just get another one. This as with all VW parts can be had for much less online or at your local parts store.

Mike


Modified by vedubya at 7:22 PM 3-3-2004

1) What does Mk1/Mk2/Mk3/Mk4 or A1/A2/A3/A4 stand for?

It refers to the body style of a vw. There are basically two main chassis designations for watercooled VW's.

The "A" chassis includes GOLF (RABBIT)/JETTA/CABRIOLET/SCIROCCO/CORRADO/CADDY (RABBIT PICKUP)/NEW BEETLE. "MK-1" and A1 are the same thing, the british use "mk" designations which are pronounced "Mark - one" (not "emm-kay one")

A1/Mk1 - - - Rabbit (american name for golf), Scirocco (both mk1 and mk2 sciroccos), Cabriolet,
Jetta, Caddy (pickup) 1974-1984 with exceptions for cabriolet (92?) and scirocco ('88)

A2/Mk2 - - - Golf, Jetta, Corrado with exception for corrado (a few '95s)

A3/Mk3 - - - Golf, Jetta, Cabrio -exception to Cabrio which is still in production (2002)

A4/Mk4 - - - Golf, Jetta, New Beetle

The "B" series refers to the Passat cars. The B1 was known in America as the "DASHER," B2 was the "QUANTUM," B3 and later was known as the "PASSAT". B 5.5 is the latest model Passat (2002) that had visual updates but the chassis stayed the same.

Mk is pronounced "Mark", mk designates the body style, A or B designates the chassis. So a scirocco is on the a1 chassis, but has two bodystyles designated mk1 and mk2. Otherwise all other VW's have the same chassis/bodystyle designation.

2) What repair manual should I buy?

The only repair manual that you will ever need is the Robert Bently, aka Bently repair manual. These are available from the publisher, http://www.rb.com , along with just about every VW parts shop and amazon.com and barnes and noble. These cost around $40 USD and are well worth it, if you are tight on money check out ebay or used book places (amazon and BN have used sections on their websites), sometimes they come around and are cheap.

3) What engines were available?

All watercooled VW's prior to 1986 were some variation of an 8v, none were larger than 1.8 liters. The Scirocco 16v was the first to recieve the 16v in 1986.5 (partway through '86 model year), followed by the GTI and GLI.

'85-'87 GTI/GLI

Prior to the 16v the GTI and GLI's were equipped with a high compression 8v engine which put out around 100-105+hp. These engines used CIS-e (KE jetronic) which had a knock sensor and control box to manage "pinging." All were 1.8L

'85-'88 base/CL/GL

The non GTI/GLI engines were low compression which usually put out around 90 HP. These engines were managed by CIS (with o2 sensor aka Lambada) All were 1.8L, some early "GX" engines had smaller valved heads and put out 85hp.

88-92 8v

Any engine that isn't a 16v that came stock was a 1.8 liter 8v. These put out 100 hp, unless the engine has a dual downpipe and exhaust manifold. These engines put out 105hp and more torque, they usually came on Jetta Carats or 90-92 8v GTI's. Engine management was controlled by Digifant II, this was VW's first "electronic" fuel injection. Some people refer to this as "digifart or digif*#^", it isn't a bad fuel injection, but it can be no fun to work on if you don't know it.

87-89 16v

GTI's and GLI's had these, they put out 123 hp. Controlled by CIS-E

90-92 16v

90-92 GLI and 91-92 GTI 16v's (not all GTI's were 16v from 90-92). These put out 134 HP and engine management was accomplished by CIS-e/Motronic. This was VW's first chippable (or easily chippable, digifant II can be chipped) FI.

maybe someone could save these images and host them on vortex, or change the format to a html table...

Front solid disc equipped cars can be upgraded with vented 9.4" rotors with thinner pads as the calipers are of a floating design.

Any 9.4" upgrade to larger brakes means you'd need to swap steering knuckles, calipers, carriers, and a 22mm MC. Late model ball joints is also required if your car isn't equipped with one already.

Any 10.1" brake setup can be upgraded to 11" by swapping carriers/calipers , discs and pads from a G60 Corrado.

The big brake donor cars include:
90-92 Corrado G60, 11"
88-92 GLI 16v, 10.1"
93 and up 4 cyl Mk3's, 10.1"
B3 Passat GL (16v), 10.1"

[Modified by vwtoys, 8:52 PM 10-30-2002]

Shopping List:
misc hand tools

How To:
If you have a Digifant II (88-92 8v) or a cis-e motronic engine (90-92 GTI/GLI 16v) this procedure is really easy. Take your lower airbox out, it is connected by two rubber band thingies (one in back fender side, one forward engine side), and three or four clips attatching it to the upper airbox. Take the airfilter out. You will see a cone thing in the bottom, take this out. I found the easiest way was to use a wide flattipped screwdriver on the outside portion to get it started, once that is loose push out from the inside of the box. Put a k&n filter in, if not so equipped.

(again, if vortex hosted images...)
digifant II box shown, take highlighted out.

If you have a cis or cis-e car then you will need to cut out part of the box. I used a swiss army knife saw to cut mine. You don't want to cut a hole on the engine side, as this will suck hot air in (hot air=expanded air=less oxygen=less hp). Cut on the front or on the fender side. The hole should be about the size of an audio casset tape.

--------
feel free to take anything from my little how to page,
http://members.aol.com/mk28v/howto.htm

Produced all the same years that regular MkII Golf, GTi, Jetta models produced(some say yes some say no for '92).
Coupes are Basically Jettas with the longer doors that fit all two doors. The back seats are Jetta, they do not fold down.
There were no coupes that caome from the factory badged as GLi models, and none came with 16-valve motors.
The motors that were available were the 4-cylinder gas and diesel, with auto or 5 spd.
The injection systems are just like the other models, it depends on date of production.
Some coupes came with big bumpers, just like the other cars 1990 was a flip year for the bumper style.
Anything else i am missing?

Swapping a VR6 into an A2

How I removed the A/C on a 1992 8v Jetta

8v non A/C conversion kit 16v non A/C converion kit

Two great technical tools: The discplacment calculator The compression ratio calculator

THIS is the best of the best for dyeing the black plastic on your car. I've dyed the bumpers, mouldings, dash, and engine parts with great-looking and long-lasting results.

Always use OEM/Bosch tune-up and maintenence parts to ensure optimum performance on a watercooled VW.

I work at a VW dealer selling parts, and I do all my own work on the car. One thing I learned is don't take your car to a mechanic/shop that doesn't specifically work on VWs. I have gotten numerous calls from shops that deal with American cars, and they say things like "what's with these volkswagens?". VW's are kind of unique, mechanically. It seems that mechanics that don't work on VWs get confused sometimes. I would never take a VW to a shop that didn't say "VW" or acknowledge german cars in the name of the shop.
I am somewhat frequently asked for tech advice over the phone when barney's shade tree repair shop calls to order a part, or to ask how to perform a repair procedure.

Hope This Helps


[Modified by fopeano, 7:02 PM 10-31-2002]

The AKTIV Myth:
~ Some 6 speaker MKII's are Aktiv, while some arent.
~ It is to my belief that the high end (GTi/GLi/GTX) models were so equipped.
~ To find out if you are cursed with AKTIV or not, simply pull out your radio (heidelberg) and see what plug/slot is occupied by the brown (IIRC) plug. You'l see a plug marked for ACT. and one for NO ACT, Mine was the latter, and I did not have the AKTIV.

Steering Spline/Steering Wheel Swaps
~ All A2's are not equal.
~ Sometime in 1989 (IIRC), VW changed the spline size, therefore post '89 steering wheels will not work on pre '89 models, and vice versa.

Centre Consoles
~ All centre consoles are not equal.
~ I learned this the hard way, after modifiying a brand new console to house my radio.
~ The reason my new console will not fit 100 percent the way the old one did is because of different ducting within the console. My car is a/c equipped, whetehr this has something to do with it or not . . .
~ You can spot the difference by the number of side exits the console has, my stock AC one has one, while my new (maybe non ac) has two smaller ones.
~ The vital difference lies within the fact that the "intake" portion of the consoles are 1/2" different. Be aware of this, dont end up like me.

The difference between the "spongy" rear spoilers and the "hard plastic" spoilers
~ When VW started to paint the rear decklid spoilers on the Jetta, they changed from the spongy black spoilers to the hard plastic spoilers. . . . they did so for a good reason
~ The spongy spoilers are flat black, and truly oldschool, but they hide a dark secret. The overall build of them is a steel skeleton, surrounded in polyurethane foam, then enclosed in rubber. Awesome design . . . . back in the 1970's. The flaw lies within the use. Once the rubber gets punctured, it turns the entire spoiler into a big wet sponge. The metal "frame" will quickly rot out, and stain your decklid with fugly rust stains.
~ The newer hard plastic spoiler is easily paintable, and is far superior to the older one. The studs are rust-resistant, and there's no sponge to soak up water.
. . . i'll make another post in the morning.

http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/cars.html

all found here
http://chip.vwmafia.net/howto/

An engine is like an air pump.
VW started out with 8 valves, then they figure then can pump air faster on the 8v by making it 16v...as a result, the motor got a little more complex, thus making it more expensive to repair and get parts. Four valves/cylinder makes pumping air easier. Four holes usually take up more surface area than 2 valves for air to flow through. Basically, the more air that can go in and out the engine, the more horsepower can be made. This is why you port and polish your cylinder head (especially the people with 8v) to increase power. Also, 4 smaller valves are individulally lighter and has less momentum than 2 big valves. Alot of people say 8v has more torque. This is not true because an 8v motor torque curve just peaks at a lower rpm. This creates the effect of more torque because the power comes on quicker without you having to rev it high. However, just because the peak torque in the 8v comes on earlier, it does not neccesarily means it is overall greater than a 16v. The 16v needs to rev a little higher in the rpm to get to it's peak torque but the peak can be more. The reason why an 8v is more ideal for dailing driving and normal commuting is because it is smoother due to the low rpm torque. It feels smoother because you don't gotta rev it up. Alot of people love this because high revving engine scares them and it make them feel like they are torturing the car. Why does 16v have to rev higher for torque? Because air passes in and out too fast so the explosion energy don't stay compress long enuff in the cylinder...it has to explode repeatedly quicker (higher rev) before the energy fade away.


[Modified by 87GolfKart, 12:06 AM 10-31-2002]

http://www.doppel-wobber.de

Dubsquad Netherlands

This is seriously the best thread i have ever laid eyes on.

Each part number is composed of nine numbers in three groups,
followed optionally with a letter suffix:

vvv ggg ppp suffix

Vehicle type (vvv):

155 = Convertible
171 = Golf I
161 = Jetta I
165 = Jetta II
191 = Golf
261 = 16V GTI
531 = Scirocco I
535 = Scirocco II

Primary index (ggg):

100-199 = Engine/Cooling/Clutch
200-299 = Exhaust, Fuel Tank
300-399 = Transmission/Transaxle
400-499 = Front Axle/Suspension
500-599 = Rear Axle
600-699 = Brake
700-799 = Cables, Bumpers and Foot control
800-899 = Body/Interior
900-999 = Electrical, ignition, fuel injection

Individual Part Number (ppp):

000-999 = Individual part

The primary index and the part number are the most important numbers because many of the cars share the same parts. So do not be surprised to see a 171-Rabbit type part in a Jetta.

Note that some part numbers are exclusively related to certain parts of the car.
For example, vvv = 020 are related to the transmission.

Also http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/cars.html Site with lot's of good tech articles been on the net for a long time

http://home.att.net/~t.goddard/ This is a great site too links to all kinds of VW stuff and lot's of info on Racing VWs

[Modified by 1badMKIrocco, 3:36 PM 10-31-2002]

WMI = World Manufacture Index
VDS = Vehicle Descriptor Section
VIS = Vehicle Identifier Section

1 - Manufacturing Country
W - Germany
1 - USA
3 - Mexico
9 - Brazil

2 - Manufacturer
B - VW of Brazil
V - Volkswagen

3 - Vehicle Type
1 - Pickup
2 - MPV (Multi Purpose Vehicle)
W - Passenger Car

4 - Series
1987 - 93 Fox
A - 2 Door Basic
B - 2 Door Economy
C - 2 Door Custom
D - 2 Door Wagon
G - 4 Door Custom

1985-95 Golf
B - 2 Door Custom
D - 2 Door Sport
D - 2 Door GTi
F - 4 Door Custom
H - 2 Door GTi 16V
K - 4 Door Golf III

1985-95 Jetta
K - 2 Door Base
M - 2 Door Custom
P - 4 Door Base
R - 4 Door Custom GL / Caret / Economy
S - 4 Door GLS / CustomT - 4 Door GLI / GLX

1983-95 Rabbit / Cabriolet
A - 2 Door Base
B - 2 Door Custom (1992-93)
C - 2 Door Custom (1983-91)
D - 2 Door Carat
E - 2 Door Etienne Aigner

1983-88 Quantum
A - 1983-88 2 Door Basic
B - 1983-88 2 Door Custom
C - 1983-88 2 Door Deluxe
D - 1983-88 2 Door Sport
E - 1983-88 4 Door Basic
F - 1983-88 4 Door Custom
G - 1983-88 4 Door Deluxe 1983-88

Scirocco (USA) 1983-89 Scirocco (Canada)
A - 1983-88 2 Door Basic (USA)
A - 1983-89 2 Door Basic (Canada)
B - 1983-88 2 Door Custom (USA)
B - 1983-88 2 Door Custom (CAnada)
C - 1983-88 2 Door Deluxe (USA)
C - 1983-89 2 Door Deluxe (Canada)
D - 1983-88 2 Door Sport (USA)
D - 1983-89 2 Door Sport (Canada)
B - 1983-88 2 Door Custom (USA)
B - 1983-88 2 Door Custom (Canada) 1990-94

Corrado(USA)
D - 1990-92 2 Door Sport
E - 1992-94 2 Door SLC 1995

Corrado (Canada)
E - 1995 2 Door SLC

1983--92 Vanagon
X - 1983-88 Kombi
Y - 1983-92 Bus (Vanagon)
Z - 1983-92 Camper

1992-95 EuroVan
H - EuroVan CL
K - EuroVan GL

1990-95 Passat
C - 4 Door GLS
D - 4 Door Wagon GLS
E - 4 Door GLXF - 4 Door Wagon GLX
F - 4 Door Custom GL
G - 4 Door Wagon GL
H - 4 Door Base
J - 4 Door Deluxe GLX / GLS
N - 4 Door Wagon Custom GLX

5 - Engine
Contact Dealer for Detailed Engine Information

6 - Restraint System
0 - Active
2 - Passive w/Man Lap Belt
4 - "ELRA"
5 - Active Belts w/Driver Air Bag
8 - Active Belts w/Dual Air Bags
9 - Passive

7-8 Model
15 - 1983-93 Convertible, Cabriolet
16 - 1983-88 Jetta
17 - 1980?-92 Rabbit, Pickup, Golf, GTi
1C - New Beetle
1E - 1995 Cabrio
1G - 1989-92 Golf / Jetta
1H - 1993-95 Golf / Jetta
24 - VW Transporter (Pickup and Multivan)
25 - 1983-92 Vanagon, Transporter Van
30 - 1987-93 Fox
31 - 1990-95 Passat
32 - 1983-88 Quantum 2 Door and 4 Door
33 - 1985-88 Quantum Station Wagon and Quattro
3A - 1995 Passat
43 - Audi 5000 / older
44 - Audi 5000/100/200/V8
4A - Audi S4/100CS/V8
50 - 1990-95 Corrado
53 - 1983-88 Scirocco
60 - 1994-95 Corrado
70 - EuroVan
78 - Passat?
81 - Audi 4000
83 - Audi 4000
85 - Audi Coupe GT
89 - Audi 90
8A - Audi 90
8B - Audi Coupe

9 - VIN Check Digit
Manufacturer's Internal Code

10 - Vehicle Model Year
D - 1983
E - 1984
F - 1985
G - 1986
H - 1987
J - 1988
K - 1989
L - 1990
M - 1991
N - 1992
P - 1993
R - 1994
S - 1995
T - 1996
V - 1997
W - 1998
X - 1999
Y - 2000
1 - 2001
2 - 2002

11 - Assembly Plant
A - Ingolstadt
B - Brussels
E - Emden
G - Graz
H - Hanover
K - Osnabruck
M - Mexico
N - Neckarsulm
P - Brazil
S - Stuttgart
V - Westmoreland, PA, USA
W - Wolfsburg
Y - Spain (SEAT)

12 - 17 Serial Number
Sequential Production Number

*whew* getting that to come out right was a b1tch!

[Modified by 2035cc16v, 7:52 AM 10-31-2002]

[Modified by 2035cc16v, 7:54 AM 10-31-2002]

Beyond that, us owners of such cars still feel the need to make fun of the Mk2 VR6's awful handling. The running joke is the flipping-over Mk2 VR6 .. here are the pictures for such use in threads, credit: me.

Flipping image:

Oops into the canyon pic:

Oops into the canyon continued:

The Official MK2 VR6 bumper sticker:

I could have added something useful, but this is waaay better

Came on 8V GTI stock in 85/86
When 16V came out, the 8V GTI lost it's rear discs to drums.

Power
8V stock power(NA non-Cali cars):
85 100HP
86 to Digifant - 102HP
Digifant - 105HP

16V stock power
1.8 16v - 123Hp in NA(139 in Europe)
2.0 16V - 134Hp in NA(? in Europe?)

1. 13mm socket, loosen retaining nut thats on the wiper, this holds to the spindle. then remove arm.

2. Remove trim panel from inside hatch.

3. Loosen retaining nut from the lever. Rotate the motor splines 180 degrees.

4. Replace wiper arm, and align properly to bottom of rear window.

5. Bolt wiper back on, and your done!

Havent done this myself, dont like the look that much, but a lot do, so enjoy and good luck!

http://www.GenerationDub.com

http://www.ClubVaper.com

Kiwi Leather Shoe Dye

http://www.volksport.com/garage/manifold.html

quote:

---

Lighting-
Q: What are the options for headlights on my A2?
A: Stock Quad Round http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/djkround.jpg
Stock Rectangular (Aero) http://the16v.com/images/vw/86/86front.jpg
Single Round http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/djk91_lrp.jpg
Single Round w/badgless grill http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/2lt_badgeless2.jpg
Rallye Golf conversion http://the16v.com/images/vw/djk/lites/rallye/16v_rallye.jpg

---

Add to that:
Clear e-code aeros: Vortex mod Cullen's site http://www.vwonline.info ; http://www.parts4vws.com ; http://www.pgperformance.com ; http://www.amimotorsports.com
Smoked e-code aeros: http://www.futrellautowerkes.com ; http://www.amimotorsports.com

[Modified by niels_dale, 10:13 PM 10-31-2002]

The reason I note this is because when I priced starters the one for a German car was $100 cheaper than the one for a Mexican made car.

edit:

vedubya (1:18 PM 11-1-2002): hey dude you might want to add 1VW - pennsylvania to your A2 FAQ post, just a suggestion

[Modified by nickinboston, 8:48 PM 11-1-2002]

Most of it's basic used car shopping. Assuming a stick here. Autos, well... skip the MT parts and substitute appropriate AT observations

So you wanna buy your first A2/Mk2?

1) Look for RUST. that includes bubbled paint. replaceable panels okay, unit-body bad.
- a) cowl (around front windshield)
- b) B/C pillars (around side windows on body)
- c) strut towers (rear and front. Open trunk/hatch, open hood.
- d) wheel wells (towards the back, where the tires will throw water)
2) walk around the car.
- a) kick the wheels at the top, front and back. any movement?
- b) are the tires nice and evenly worn down? believe it or not, bald tires are your friend, as that means the suspension/alignment are good enough to wear em out. Watch out for any uneven wear patterns, or brand new tires when everything else looks neglected.
- c) look at the door, hatch and hood seams. Are all the body panels lined up, or have they been pulled off and rehung (out of perfect factory square)?
- d) is the paint basically all the same color? Generally one side will have faded slightly more than others, so a gradual fade pattern is okay, but keep an eye out for individually resprayed panels, or other signs of accident repair, particularly if the owner claims it's never been in an accident.
3) Look under the hood.
- a) any big oil drips?
- b) if not, does it look steam cleaned? i.e. is it TOO clean, like someone's covering up a leak? ideally you want to see signs of maintenance having been done.
- c) open the coolant reservoir. nice and green/red/amber? any metallic stuff?
- d) pull the dipstick. Oil topped up? either clear-amber or black? any milkiness? Feel it. nice and slippery, or at all gritty?
- e) open the oil filler cap, same question.
- f) grab the clutch cable. slight slack? grab the lever it's attached to. come up to level, then get firm?
- g) how do the battery cables look? any corrosion?
- h) any signs of repaired cables, hoses, etc?
4) Head inside.
- a) sunroof? any hints of water inside?
- b) headliner? It's often falling off. Realize that if it's falling off at all, it's going to finish falling off. you'll nee to remove it and scrape all the foam off before you can spray new adhesive to reattach.
- c) clutch pedal. can you feel the engagement point? does it move straight in and out or wobble side to side a bit? how's the brake pedal feel?
- d) shifter. is the pattern clean or are you making spaghetti? (cheap quick fix, but good bargaining point). Stick it in 3rd, any side to side movement? any back and forth slop?
- e) shifter again. Is reverse lockout working or can you shove it straight over? (cheap not quite as quick fix, better bargaining point.)

Drive test:
1) insert key. wiggle. loose or snug?
2) turn to run position: did you hear the fuel pump run and then shutoff?
3) try to start the car. should fire right up. Any clouds out the tailpipe at start? Any slightly sweet smells? Fuel smell?
4) let the car idle a bit. nice and stable? right around 1000rpm? oil and alternator lights go out pretty fast? (the rest should have gone out as soon as you started it).
5) blip throttle to 3000rpm and let it drop. Any puff of smoke out the back?
6) start driving. go into first okay? did it grind when you went for second gear? Make sure to go through all gears. was 5th harder to get into/wanting to pop out/making horrible noises? Any whining noises up front while moving? Any clicking noises when you crank the wheel all the way left/right?
7) temp gauge moving up yet? Does it get off the bottom/cold engine section?
8) is the heater working? If it has A/C, do you get cold blast of air?
9) take it up to speed. Listen for changes in sounds. Also, as you get up to higher speeds, any shake/shimmy/rattling coming from either front or back end?
10)brake. hard. Any shimmy/shake? Any clunking noise?
11) end drive. leave engine running and pop the hood again. Coolant hoses firm, but not bulging at the ends? Any funny noises/smells? Is the idle still at normal speed?

etc.etc.
guess I can edit if I remember what it was I forgot.

*edit: 2002/11/4 added some stuff about brake warp and wheel balance...

[Modified by negativl, 8:32 PM 11-4-2002]