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    Thread: 42 draft design a-pillar pod boost gauge install

    1. 07-27-2004 01:35 AM #1
      updates: i'll redo this one of these years. search on this page for "gray" and you'll find instructions on how to do the backlighting.
      ok, this is a work in progress, so please bear with me as i make modifications until i get it to the point where i like it. i actually have yet to finish the install; the backlight hasn't been wired yet. but i'll give it a shot for now, and i'll make it better as time permits. if you want to put this on another website, please let me know beforehand. i don't have any problems with it, i just want to know where this is going out to (cuz if there is some error, i want to be able to fix it and let people know).
      first and foremost, i am NOT a mechanic, so check your instructions before doing any work. these are a supplement to the instructions to help you figure out how to install it (i'm a visual learner, and pictures are always a good thing).
      i actually was not supposed to install this unit. my 2002.5 jetta has the front curtain airbags in the a-pillar. after searching on the vortex for a while, i found half the people said it should be fine, and half said 'no way, you're crazy'. well, i am crazy so i installed it.
      i won't be responsible for any damages done by using this set up. if you think it's not safe, then don't do this install. frankly, i have only seen pictures of the airbag safely deployed. i haven't seen any actual examples of problems (ie, someone that had an airbag deploy with the gauge pod and was injured by it).
      note: i may use the term tube and hose and line interchangeably for the vacuum tube routing from the fpr to the gauge. sorry bout that, i'll fix it later.
      ok. i'll start getting to the good stuff now.
      first--prepare the car for working on it. park it on a flat area, engage the parking brake, make sure the engine is cool, yadda yadda, the usual stuff.
      next DISCONNECT THE BATTERY on the negative terminal. very important if you are crazy like me and have the airbag. i REALLY didn't want this deploying into my face. make sure you have your radio code before you do this, cuz nothing sucks more than having a non functioning radio. make sure the terminal can't move back onto the battery terminal (there is a little plastic post where it fits nicely, see the pic for where it is).

      now it is time to remove the a-pillar. make sure your hands are clean as oil and dirt refuse to come off of this fabric.

      separate it starting at the top and start popping off the clips. this was where i made a mistake. on the airbag units, the top clip is very different. some people call the clips these b*tch clips; this is for a reason. the top clip is not going to come out with out some special effort, so just release one or two clips in the middle of the pillar. also visible in this picture is the airbag right next to my hand.

      ok, this is the part that is hard to explain. if you look at this blurry picture carefully, you'll see two components, one green and one gray (the top of the car is on the left). on the gray piece there is a metal clip. this is the b*tch clip. before you can disengage the top clip, you must slide this piece out of the way.

      this is the clip after i removed it so you can see what it looks like. when it is positioned in the car, the top right corner is pointing towards the roof of the car (following the angle of the a-pillar of course).

      this is how i removed the clip. i cut a coat hanger and used a piece of it to slide the clip up and out of the way. it's annoying to do, but just work at it and eventually you'll succeed. the clip will be bent out of shape. this is a fact that i've seen on another thread. you must replace it as this clip holds the pillar in place when the airbag deploys. if it's not in good shape, then it'll go flying out. not good. i'll buy one from the stealership first chance i get.

      now the rest of the pillar should come out easily (figuratively speaking). just pull hard, you won't break anything (well, i creased mine before i realized about that top clip, so you can kind of see the crease going underneath the airbag badge going down the length of the pillar. oh well, i'll deal with it later...).

      ok, now that that is out of the way, the fun stuff will happen. this is a mechanical boost gauge, so you must run a vacuum line from the engine to the back of the gauge. the grommet you will use is located along the firewall. in the first picture, you can see the relationship between the grommet and the n75 valve. in the second picture, you can see a zoomed out shot with me pointing where it goes (kinda pointing, my hand is holding the line up and out of the way of the picture. remove the rubber grommet (just pull on it) and poke a hole through it with an awl. now, feed the line through the hole. i was installing this with a friend of mine, and he figured out a good technique for doing this. take needle nosed pliers, and stick them through the hole in the rubber grommet piece. put the end of the tube over the jaws of the pliers, and pull it through the hole. just figure out you're own way to do this.


      before you push the line through the firewall, you have to remove the panel above where the pedals are (inside the car). there are several torx screws along the bottom of the lower dash, and once these are removed the panel will come right out. this picture is looking up above the pedals (yes, those are audi tt pedals, and yes, i have an automatic though i REALLY wish it was stick. oh well.) you can see where the tube (hose, whatever) goes through the firewall. push through enough of the tube such that in the engine bay the line will reach the intake manifold with a little room to spare. the 42dd line is longer than you need, which is always a good thing. once you have the hose where you like it, replace the rubber grommet through the firewall.

      this part of the install is pretty annoying. now we have to put the vacuum line in the correct location for the gauge. poke a hole in the end of the line and push a coat hanger through the hole you just made.


      now, push the coat hanger up back in the corner of the car so that it ends up near the bottom of the a-pillar (above where the dead pedal is kind of). the line will only route in one place, so you should be able to find it. you can see where to reach in this picture (kind of).

      darn it, this shot is blurry. crap. this was supposed to show where exactly it's routed. you might be able to figure it out if you look at your car carefully. the bronze-collored line is the coat hanger, and the white unit is some sort of wiring harness located at the bottom of the a-pillar. sorry for the badness of this shot...

      bingo, the vacuum line is in position!

      i still have to add parts on routing the line through the dash, attaching the line to the gauge, attaching the line to the fpr line, attaching the boost gauge to the a-pillar, and reinstalling it. ugh. i still haven't replaced my b*tch clip (now it has been several months and it still hasnt happened).
      PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me how this sounds. i really want to clarify it as much as possible. thanks in advance for your help!
      -michael
      some more pictures:






      Modified by bigmak at 4:42 PM 6-7-2006

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    3. 07-27-2004 01:37 AM #2
      where was this detailed thread when I needed it

    4. 07-27-2004 01:38 AM #3
      try taking the pictures straight on and right side up next time.
      i got dizzy from trying to look at them and make sense of em
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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    6. 07-27-2004 01:39 AM #4
      yeah, no one made this install instructions, so i figured i'd have fun and do this. maybe i'll get famous and get this sticky and added to the diy page when i'm done!
      i'll rotate the pictures when i get a chance, sorry bout that...

    7. 07-27-2004 01:41 AM #5
      no worries [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    8. 07-27-2004 01:57 AM #6
      quick note you may want to add - the screws holding in the kickplate above the pedals are tork (sp?) screws - no regular screwdriver will help, so make sure you have a tork kit handy.

    9. 07-27-2004 03:01 AM #7
      heh, torx.
      Thanks for the detailed writeup.

    10. 07-27-2004 07:27 AM #8
      morning bump, yeah i forgot that those were torx screws. thanks for reminding me! any more help out there would be greatly appreciated!

    11. 07-27-2004 11:38 AM #9
      i always get the companies confuxed... Tork makes line voltage timeclocks... Torx makes those silly screws

    12. 07-27-2004 03:51 PM #10
      afternoon bump... almost 200 views, but not too many comments... i'm hoping this means it makes some sense.
      i may work on the wiring tonight, and i'll update the text to reflect what i learned. i actually had to work today

    13. 07-27-2004 05:04 PM #11
      GREAT WRITE UP !!!
      Just ordered my pod today, so the timing couldn't be better !!!
      Hurry up and finish so it will all be ready by the time my gage gets here
      I'm a little concerned about the Bi*ch clip, glad you could warn me about it.
      I went to my dealer today and asked if installing the gage would void my warranty. He was real cool and said the only problem would be that the line I cut to install the "T" fitting would not be covered. I can live with that easy...

    14. 07-27-2004 05:24 PM #12
      it took me so long to figure out that beeeaaatch clip. once i figured it out, i felt like an idiot because it's so easy. the coat hanger is a good idea, i just had a flat head screwdriver. nice write-up. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    15. Member TANiK's Avatar
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      07-27-2004 05:58 PM #13
      nice work so far
      a fellow texer installed mine and showed me the process it comes out really nice if you know what you are doing
      Peace

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      07-27-2004 08:29 PM #14
      nice work but the pics are a bit too large.

    17. 07-28-2004 12:03 PM #15
      keep uipdating this post man! i just bought a 42DD gauge and pod from a fellow vortexer and this DIY will come in really handy very soon!
      thanks!

    18. 07-29-2004 02:07 PM #16
      updates: still working on it, added some stuff. yet to do the backlighting.

    19. Member My Bora 1.8t's Avatar
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      08-01-2004 04:07 PM #17
      great write up.. i'm gonna install mine over the weekend!!

    20. Member alfredo18t's Avatar
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      08-10-2004 11:25 PM #18
      to follow

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      08-10-2004 11:41 PM #19
      do any of ya'll have nay tips on how to get the top clip back into place? I got it out, but am having the ahardest time trying to get it to slide back into place...
      Oh, and great Write-up btw.

    22. 08-11-2004 12:15 AM #20
      quick advice
      pay $6 and get this:

      Makes it a lot easier to route the tubing and reinstall, reducing the likelihood of kinking the plastic tubing

    23. 08-11-2004 02:39 PM #21
      what si that thing?

    24. 08-11-2004 02:44 PM #22
      brass 90° fitting on the boost gauge.
      The plastic tubing fits on the slightly barbed fitting. Nice tight seal with their plastic tubing.
      ECS tuning has it for $5....but if you're ordering that only from ECS, it's like $8 in shipping (UPS only)....so you better buy other stuff with it to make it worthwhile.

    25. 09-21-2004 02:04 PM #23
      WHERE ARE THE REST?!!!

      I am at the last step
      and I am left here... like that
      how do I do the wire stuff and all?!!!!

    26. 09-21-2004 02:06 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by Vin_ZNT »
      WHERE ARE THE REST?!!!

      I am at the last step
      and I am left here... like that
      how do I do the wire stuff and all?!!!!

      How about using your own head? J/K
      Man that's a good write up hope we'll get the rest of it soon

    27. 09-21-2004 06:03 PM #25
      I installed it!!!


      thanks to this guide and then some, this is really useful
      hope you finish it soon bigmak!


      Modified by Vin_ZNT at 5:40 AM 9-23-2004

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