VWVortex.com - ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
    Results 1 to 25 of 197

    Thread: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 29th, 2001
      Location
      Allentown PA
      Posts
      4,392
      02-07-2005 02:14 PM #1
      2.0L ABA Conversion into a MK2

      This is a broad overview of the parts that are need or can be used to perform an ABA 2.0L Crossflow engine swap into an MK2 Volkswagen. The following list is based on personal experiences with these swaps and information gathered online. There may be some incorrect information or missing information in this thread, if you know for a fact that something is incorrect or have other options that work that I have not listed please contact me and I will edit the post.
      The Crossflow swap can be done with very basic components and can retain most MK2 original parts, or it can be done as a conversion to an almost complete MK3 engine bay. I have listed many options, but there are always more out there. This is by no means a bible on how every swap should be done but more of a reference for people with questions or starting out.
      Please respect this post and IM or email me with changes you think should be made. Let’s keep this clean and factual.
      IF you are looking for reference on:
      Automatic to Manual Transmission conversions
      Brake Upgrades
      Converting to CE2 from earlier wiring
      YOU WILL NOT FIND IT HERE….. USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION, THERE ARE TONS OF TREADS OUT THERE ALREADY
      Enjoy,
      Smokinjoe644

      PARTS
      Minimal Parts Needed:
      1) Complete ABA Engine assembly
      2) Engine bay wiring harness
      3) ECU
      4) ABA Coil
      5) MAF sensor
      6) MK2 rear motor mount bracket (if using MK2 K-frame)
      7) MK2 transmission
      8) MK2 throttle cable from Digi2 vehicle (1990-1992)
      9) MK2 speedometer cable

      Other Parts (application specific or options):
      1) Down pipe and Cat (depending on previous setup, and number of O2 sensors)
      2) MK3 K-frame (can be substituted for MK2 K-frame, then MK3 rear mount is retained)
      3) MK3 Trans (not needed but may provided better gearing)
      4) MK3 or Late MK2 Coolant bottle (allows for direct connection to MK3 wiring w/o splicing)
      5) MK3 washer fluid pump (allows for direct connection to MK3 wiring w/o splicing)

      Additional accessories:
      1) PS Steering (MK2 lines will fit the MK3 pump if you remove the banjo bolt fitting, otherwise MK3 lines can be used and will mate to the MK2 rack)
      2) AC delete (use VR6 pulley to replace ABA water pump pulley, new belts are needed *futrell autoworks sells complete kit with belts)
      3) AC installed (easiest to use MK3 parts, corrado lines can be run as well *heater core or box may need to be changed to accept new lines)
      4) ABS (MK3 ABS is self contained and is an independent wiring harness)
      ABS INSTALL
      a) MK3 booster/master/abs assembly can be mounted with
      existing MK2 bracket.
      ** if using the MK3 booster the end will need to be
      modified to mate to the MK2 pedal
      b) Front MK2 lines will need to be modified or MK3 lines can
      be used (holes need to be drilled in strut towers *MK3
      lines go through the towers not under them)
      c) Rear MK2 lines will need to be modified or MK3 lines can
      be used (use late MK2 or any MK3 rear beam for easiest
      installation *brake lines connect to beam directly not to
      the body as in early MK2 cars
      d) ABS Wiring will require a second hole to be make in the
      front of each strut tower, and two holes to be made under
      the rear seat
      e) An additional hole may need to be made in the firewall
      depending on vehicles original equipment

      INSTALLATION

      Engine Bay Preparation:

      Suspension:
      1) Use MK2 original K-frame ** MK2 rear motor mount bracket will need to be used on engine
      2) Use MK3 K-frame ** direct replacement for MK2 K-frame, use MK3 rear bracket
      3) All other suspension components can remain the same, stock MK2 or aftermarket
      4) Use MK2 front cross member ** does not need to change

      Steering:
      1) Use stock MK2 power or non-power rack and/or lines ** banjo fitting will need to be removed from MK3 PS pump to install MK2 hard line
      2) Use MK3 rack and/or lines ** lines can be used with MK2 rack

      Cooling bottle:
      1) Use stock MK2 rectangular bottle ** level sensor plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
      2) Use stock MK2 round bottle ** direct fit
      3) Use MK3 bottle **direct fit
      *** if updating from the rectangular bottle to the round bottle, the original bracket needs to removed and a bolt-on bracket can be used from late MK2s that had the round bottle***

      Washer fluid:
      1) Use stock MK2 pump ** plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
      2) Use MK3 pump ** direct fit into MK2 bottles, don’t forget to check single or double outlet

      Coil:
      1) MK3 coil must be used ** will bolt directly to the factory MK2 holes

      Radiator:
      1) MK2 stock radiator ** overflow on the passengers side needs to be capped off
      2) MK3 radiator (use passat 16V front cross member)
      Radiator Fans:
      1) MK2 stock fans ** plug will need to be spliced into MK3 wiring
      2) MK3 fans
      3) Passat fans ** direct fit to MK2 and same wiring as MK3 harness

      Radiator Thermoswitch:
      1) MK3 switch ** will install into MK2 or MK3 radiator

      Brakes:
      1) MK2 stock brakes can be used
      2) Any combination of Corrado/Passat/MK3 brake components can be used
      *** Search for other threads, many variations can be found***

      Fuel Pump:
      1) MK2 pumps can be used ** some wiring may need to be done depending on application
      2) MK3 tank and pump can be installed ** direct fit to MK2 body

      Fuel Lines:
      1) MK3 rubber line ends should be used to mate to the fuel rail ** will fit onto existing MK2 lines
      2) MK3 lines can be installed onto MK2 ** direct fit, best if using the MK3 tank and pump

      Emissions:
      1) Will vary by year ** especially with OBD2, VW changed things throughout the years
      2) Generally, you will need whatever sensors the swap car originally had in place
      3) MK2 charcoal canister can be mated to MK3 lines

      a) MK3 canister will not fit anywhere easily
      b) If MK3 canister had a purge valve it can be tied up and left hanging

      Gauge Cluster:
      1) MK2 cluster can be used based on interior wiring
      a) MFA cluster sensor needed to override speed limiter
      ** can be added to any cluster
      b) Sensor must be installed to eliminate speed limiter
      ** see engine wiring, speed sensor
      2) MK3 cluster can be used with CE2 interior wiring

      a) A jumper wire must be used from D8-E2 on the fuse
      block to power the gauge cluster

      Engine Wiring:
      1) Use MK3 engine bay harness
      2) ** MK3Plugs may need to be switched for MK2 plugs for the following: (radiator fans, washer fluid pump, brake fluid reservoir, coolant reservoir) Depending on above parts used.
      3) Holes will need to be made for the MK3 harness, 2 large holes for the grommets going into the rain tray area
      Headlight Harness
      4) MK3 headlight harness can be used
      a) Best to use is Jetta or Golf with single bulbs for
      standard NON-H4 harness; otherwise you will need to
      modify it to work for your application
      b) Late MK2 big bumper turn singles will be a direct fit to
      the MK3 harness
      c) Late MK2 side markers will be a direct fit to MK3 harness
      d) MK3 horns can be used, or late MK2s
      **** MK3 harness is long and will need some fitting ****

      Vehicle Speed Sensor
      5) MK3 speed sensor can be used in MK2 transmission
      a) If not using MK3 VSS ** stock speedometer cable from
      MK2 used
      b) Use an MK2 gauge cluster with MFA functions, there will
      be a small plug on the speedometer side in the rear of
      the cluster (usually black).
      c) Run a wire from the center pin of that plug to the ECU
      wiring T68 pin #65 blue w/ white strip
      *** This will remove the engine speed limiter, without
      doing this the engine will be limited in all of the
      gears to 5500 rpms because it will be looking for the
      signal from the VSS which does not exist.***

      Ignition Coil
      6) MK3 coil will require a ground wire to be run from the ground terminal to the tachometer wiring inside of the vehicle for MK2 gauge cluster.
      a)The ground terminal is the bottom post under the cap
      (plugs facing passengers side)
      b) Run the wire to the green wiring in the gauge cluster
      wiring harness for the tachometer signal.

      VAG-COM
      7) VAG-COM
      a) pin #4 and #5 go to ground
      b) pin #16 goes to 12V+ (power)
      c) pin #7 ECU
      MORE WIRING HELP CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://mysite.verizon.net/e.sese/x-flow_swap.html
      Engine Preparation:
      1) Conversion to NON-AC if desired
      2) Switch MK3 rear motor mount bracket for MK2 bracket if using the MK2 K-frame
      3) OBD2 throttle body needs to be turned upside down
      4) OBD2 throttle body will require a bracket to be made for the throttle cable
      a) The original bracket can be tapped into the top of the
      intake manifold
      b) The cable can be run under the manifold and the
      bracket can be attached to the support bracket for the
      upper intake manifold (large U-shaped bracket)
      5) OBD1 throttle body is left alone

      Transmission Preparation:
      1) MK2 transmission can be used
      a) MK2 clutch disk is required to mate to the transmission
      shaft
      b) MK2 8V or 16V setups can be used
      c) MK3 pressure plate can be used with MK2 disk
      2) MK3 transmission no modifications needed
      3) MK3 starter can be used with MK2 or MK3 transmission



      Modified by smokinjoe644 at 2:25 PM 2-7-2005

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 29th, 2000
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      7,545
      Vehicles
      2018 GTI SE
      02-08-2005 03:49 PM #2
      great info man, thanks for compiling all that
      Thru My Eyes: Nicholas James Photography | Instagram

      Contact me for photos shoots in the Los Angeles/OC area.

      P A L E S T A R

    4. 02-09-2005 11:35 PM #3
      looks like a good list, I'm sure I'll have some to add to it as I get mine going. I am using a passat B3 16v or G-60 tranny and all the parts from a passat B3 for the hydraulic setup/cable shift. I would keep the stock mk2 transmission but its an automatic and I plan on turboing it once I get some more parts together.

    5. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    6. 02-11-2005 01:38 PM #4
      bump for all this helpful information

    7. Member capnhowdy's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 10th, 2003
      Location
      detroit
      Posts
      1,113
      Vehicles
      83 gti
      02-13-2005 01:54 AM #5
      bump for a good thred, and also my question...

      dose the VAG wireing apply for OBD1 as well because on the page it says OBD 2...
      also the VSS dose that apply for OBD1 ? because the page again is for OBD2.....

    8. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 29th, 2001
      Location
      Allentown PA
      Posts
      4,392
      02-13-2005 11:37 AM #6
      VSS applies to both OBD1 and OBD2, I will have to check into the VAG-COM it may be slightly different for OBD1

    9. 02-20-2005 01:22 AM #7
      Can I use my stock axles with the mk3 K-frame? Its a 90 with an automatic, so the CV's should be the same size, but will the axles be the right length?

    10. 02-20-2005 03:57 PM #8
      I have a few questions for swapping blocks and heads for my turbo setup.
      Will a 2.0l aba block work with th PG head?
      How much boost is safe to run on an aba 2.0 liter with 9.0:1 compression 83mm(je piston) with stock forged aba 2.0 liter rods? with a front mount intercooler
      will an atp 8v manifold still work if i convert my pg block and head to an aba 2.0 liter block and head?
      Should i stick with the pg block and head and run 1.9l 8.0:1 compression bahnbrenner pistons(skip the 2.0 liter crossflow)

    11. Member goofydug's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 5th, 2004
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      3,412
      Vehicles
      '81 rabbit / '17 taco
      02-22-2005 02:11 PM #9
      wow, great list!
      now we need one for a 1.8t swap into a mk2
      -doug

    12. 02-23-2005 12:29 AM #10
      Quote, originally posted by goofydug »
      wow, great list!
      now we need one for a 1.8t swap into a mk2

      HAHAHAHA good luck with that one. Really I know like 2 people who've done it and it's lots of headaches and nights tinkering. But that would be sweet [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    13. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 29th, 2001
      Location
      Allentown PA
      Posts
      4,392
      02-23-2005 02:18 PM #11
      Thanks guys... I will be doing my first 1.8t over the summer... I will keep track of everything and put up a post when the time comes
      I have a 98 (still cable not drive by wire) waiting for some cash and free time to start it.
      As for more specific info on turbo setups, and different internal setups... that is not really my specialty, try checking out the FI forums... those guys know there stuff [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    14. 02-25-2005 04:38 AM #12
      While looking at the lower radiator supports at the junkyard I noticed a difference between the auto and manual passat 16v B3's. The manual one sits about an 1 to 1.5" lower than the auto one and looks like the passat VR6 ones I have seen, is this the correct one for using the A3 radiator?
      I am converting the auto trans to hydraulic manual, is the passat pedal cluster from a 16v a direct fit in the A2? the VR6 thread said it was for the B3 VR6 pedals, so I would hope the 16v is the same.

    15. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 29th, 2001
      Location
      Allentown PA
      Posts
      4,392
      02-25-2005 10:44 AM #13
      Yes the pedal cluster will fit from the 16v, along with the booster bracket to do your swap.
      I will have to check into the rad support, I always used the manual ones so I was not aware of the difference. But thanks for the heads up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    16. 02-26-2005 04:54 PM #14
      Here's how I got the AC working on my swap w/o PS. It's an 89 Jetta w/ a 96 OBD2 ABA.


      Here's what I did:

      1. I cut the bottom alternator mounting point off of the bracket.
      2. Mounted the bottom pivot point of the compressor where the top mount used to go.
      3. Fabricated a mounting bracket for the alt lower/ compressor upper mounting points.
      4. Used a 49 1/2" belt from Napa (25-060490 made by Gates).

      See the horn I cut off.



      Here's the bracket and the orientation of the acc.


      Notice how high the alt sits.


      By swinging the compressor up so high, I put more belt on the water pump pulley (vr6). I also made it so that
      it clears the lower radiator hose.

      "
      Here's a better shot of what I cut off. Notice that the hole I drilled is not perfectly centered. You
      want the edge of the bracket you make to line up with the edge of the bottom ac mount.



      This is a picture of the fabbed bracket bolted to the modified OE bracket. Notice how the bolt goes all the
      way through and exits at the apex of the "v" bracing.

      Here's the bolt from the bottom. By locating where it is, I took advantage of a relatively flat spot.

      Compressor installed. Make sure the wires have clearance. This in itself does not look too strong. Once
      the alt is installed, the bracket is locked in by 3 bolts which makes it very firm. I couldn't get any of
      the components to budge.

      Here's one of the components installed off the car. The alternator is now only held on at the bottom mount with a
      bolt on the pulley side flange, instead of going all the way through. I had to use a "spacer" to get it to reach the bracket. This turned out to be a nut and 2 washers.
      It seems to work fine. I will replace it with proper hardware when I get a chance. I was using hardware I had on hand.

      The Lines:
      I had a pair of mk2 and mk3 lines professionally joined.


      See the blue valve cover? Thats the low side port. The low side was really easy. The hose sizes on
      the mk2 and mk3 lines on the low side are the same size. They just cut the hoses and put the coupling
      with the valve on it. If you look carefully, you can see condensation forming on the lines and that can
      looking thing (what the hell is that thing, anyway?). It was running at the time I took the pics.

      The high side was a little more difficult. The mk3 hose has a much larger ID than the mk2 hose.
      They cut the end off the mk3 line where it goes into the compressor, keeping as much of the aluminum tube as possible.
      They then put a compression fitting on it with a crimp fitting on the other end:

      They then put a new section of hose on it and joined it to the mk2 line with a coupling with the high side port on it.



      The new ports are for R-134a, so I don't need adapters anymore. When I was letting it run today to see if it overheats
      at idle, condensation started forming on the outside of the back windows! This is my ultimate commuter car.
      A thermometer in the center vent reads close to 40 degrees. I think if I fix the foam on my blend doors,
      it will even blow colder!



      Modified by mk2.slow at 4:58 PM 2-26-2005

    17. 02-26-2005 10:38 PM #15
      nice solution to no PS but theres so little belt wrap on the water pump I would be alittle worried. I am going to get the non AC pulley from futrells for $22, then wrap the belt over the waterpump one, its non ribbed for the backside of the belt, then under the AC compressor pulley. I just need to measure it all and find the right length belt. This should give more than enough belt wrap and prevent slipping, without changing the bracket or orientation any.

    18. 02-27-2005 01:35 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by all-starr-me »
      nice solution to no PS but theres so little belt wrap on the water pump I would be alittle worried. I am going to get the non AC pulley from futrells for $22, then wrap the belt over the waterpump one, its non ribbed for the backside of the belt, then under the AC compressor pulley. I just need to measure it all and find the right length belt. This should give more than enough belt wrap and prevent slipping, without changing the bracket or orientation any.

      You would be running the waterpump in the wrong direction if you did that. I'm not sure if it would make a difference, though. Blackgold(?) did it like that. I have 15,000 miles on mine without a problem. As always, do what you feel comfortable with. It's your car and you're the one who will be hoofing it if it breaks down.

    19. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 29th, 2001
      Location
      Allentown PA
      Posts
      4,392
      02-27-2005 09:56 AM #17
      Just a question... why run AC but no PS... you arent really getting that much of an increase from deleting the PS, and the AC is definately worse when turned on? Just seems like alot of work for not that much of a difference in the long run.

    20. 02-27-2005 10:17 AM #18
      Quote, originally posted by smokinjoe644 »
      Just a question... why run AC but no PS... you arent really getting that much of an increase from deleting the PS, and the AC is definately worse when turned on? Just seems like alot of work for not that much of a difference in the long run.

      Simple. I didn't have power steering to begin with and I LOVE AC! I never did this swap for performance. I did it for reliability. PS is just another fluid that can and will leak at some point. I really don't mind non-PS. It's just one less mechanical system that I have to worry about.
      If you want to discuss this further, PM me or open another thread. Let's not clutter this thread up. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    21. 02-28-2005 12:57 AM #19
      so will turning the waterpump in the wrong direction be a problem? I hadn't thought of that, but I think thats why the pulley isn't ribbed. anyone have or seen the setup on a real non AC ABA?

    22. 05-02-2005 10:58 AM #20
      bump for good info

    23. 05-02-2005 12:29 PM #21
      I have the vr water pump pulley on my swap with no ac or ps and haven't had one problem in over a yr. 1/2 [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. 09-11-2005 04:49 PM #22
      this helps alot

    25. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 17th, 2002
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      15,945
      10-15-2005 09:58 PM #23
      this is a great thread.. i am in the process of doing this swap right now..
      question, all the vacumm lines from the pass side fender.. use or not use.. i have got an abd intake ( i hate htem but its easier) and need to know what all i will need to keep.. thanks!

    26. 10-15-2005 10:04 PM #24
      Can we get on of those Sticky things for this?

    27. 10-18-2005 06:18 PM #25
      This seems to be comming up alot lately:
      Here's how I hooked up the tach:

      You just pop off the cover and press a small connector onto the negative terminal. You have to spread it out a bit because
      the lug on the coil is kinda thick. I slid a boot from an alligator clip over the connector to seal it up.
      Then run the wire to the fuse box and attach to the original location. For my 89 Jetta it was a red wire with a black stripe that connected at D26.

    Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •  
    vwvortex.com is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on vwvortex.com is generated by its users. vwvortex.com is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG.