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    Thread: ABA swap TECH into MK2... new clean thread... list of parts

    1. 02-11-2020 11:09 AM #176
      is there anything you can plug in, in place of the lambda just to keep the ecu happy?

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    3. 02-11-2020 11:10 AM #177
      Quote Originally Posted by garryt View Post
      is there anything you can plug in, in place of the lambda just to keep the ecu happy?
      wonder if you could splice the wiring from both into the 1st one?

    4. Member Rapid Decompression's Avatar
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      02-11-2020 02:52 PM #178
      Yeah no cat..plus i just want a tune. Weird there used to be places all over selling ABA chips...now it seems a bit more limited
      Quote Originally Posted by skin1488760
      i am a ****ing racist!

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    5. 02-11-2020 02:55 PM #179
      can it not be re-mapped on the standard chip?

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      02-11-2020 03:40 PM #180
      Quote Originally Posted by garryt View Post
      can it not be re-mapped on the standard chip?
      I mean if I had someone to do that ..I suppose
      Quote Originally Posted by skin1488760
      i am a ****ing racist!

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    7. 02-11-2020 05:19 PM #181
      there must be someone close by that can do it. my mate had his focus st done in a supermarket car park by a fellow with a lap top

    8. Member Rapid Decompression's Avatar
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      02-16-2020 04:12 PM #182
      Where are you guys placing your ECU and fan control module ?
      Quote Originally Posted by skin1488760
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      02-18-2020 02:11 AM #183
      Quote Originally Posted by Rapid Decompression View Post
      Where are you guys placing your ECU and fan control module ?
      Rain tray between air intake for heater and smashing into the wipers when they run. There is a sweet spot.

      Fan module below coolant ball. Make a bracket or bolt and cut a chunk out of the coolant ball plastic where bolt goes.


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      02-29-2020 10:09 PM #184
      I am confused about the tach
      I searched and some threads and keep coming across this...quoted identically from a few people but I dont understand.
      T28/10 Tachometer U1/06 Green Green Green

      Reference

      http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2cluster.html

      or you can hook - from the coil to

      G1/12 Ignition Coil Pin 1 (all Mk2, most others '90 only), ECU tach signal (all 91+ except Mk2) Tachometer Red/Black (coil) or Green/Black (ECU)

      http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
      [/QUOTE]
      So can I do this without running a ground from the coil to the tach? I ran a ground from the coil post to G1/12 and cart wouldn't start. Ran it to U1/06 and the tach works. But can this be done just on the fuse box side of things?
      Last edited by Rapid Decompression; 02-29-2020 at 10:12 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by skin1488760
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    11. Member Tomjr's Avatar
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      04-04-2020 08:10 PM #185
      Quote Originally Posted by Rapid Decompression View Post
      Couple questions on the throttle cable bracket? Did you grind the nub off or drill a hole for it too?
      &
      Drilling and tapping the intake for the bolt, does it go all the way through into the plenum where there's air flowing? Does it cause a vacuum leak if so? If it doesn't go in all the way is it a shorter bolt you're using?

      Thanks in advance!

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      Last edited by Tomjr; 04-04-2020 at 08:16 PM.

    12. Member syncrogti's Avatar
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      04-07-2020 03:51 PM #186
      Bolt can go into the manifold and into the airflow without leaks, just get the bolt tight. take the manifold off though so any chips from the drill and tap don't fall into your engine. Or use a shorter bolt and don't go all the way through.

      Quote Originally Posted by Tomjr View Post
      Couple questions on the throttle cable bracket?
      Drilling and tapping the intake for the bolt, does it go all the way through into the plenum where there's air flowing? Does it cause a vacuum leak if so? If it doesn't go in all the way is it a shorter bolt you're using?

      Thanks in advance!

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      Quote Originally Posted by Pineapplegti ! View Post
      100 mph are you serious ???

    13. Member Tomjr's Avatar
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      04-07-2020 07:58 PM #187
      Sweet! Thank you! Good call on removing it
      Quote Originally Posted by syncrogti View Post
      Bolt can go into the manifold and into the airflow without leaks, just get the bolt tight. take the manifold off though so any chips from the drill and tap don't fall into your engine. Or use a shorter bolt and don't go all the way through.
      Sent from my LML414DL using Tapatalk

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      04-08-2020 02:20 AM #188
      Yeah I just tapped it and used thread locker on it..no leaks
      Quote Originally Posted by skin1488760
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      06-30-2020 01:13 PM #189
      Hey all, have my ABA swap 98% of the way done.

      Car cranks, and it sounds like it fires once, then just stumbles while it's driven by the starter.

      Pic of my fuse panel


      I've done the following tests:
      Crank position sensor
      - 916 ohms on the cps plug (is this too high?)
      - Same reading on pins 67/68 on ecu connector

      Coil
      - Between 2 connectors under flap - 1200 ohms - tried 2 different coils both had the same reading
      - From sp wire feeding the dizzy to terminal 15 - 3200 ohms
      Used https://www.google.com/amp/s/forums....f3527387&amp=1

      Tested continuity from coil plug, all good
      - Brown to ground
      - Black/red to pin 8 on ecu connector

      All plug wires are seated correctly.

      Do I need to do something like this? https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...1#post67465549

      It seems like the car wants to start, it fires probably once then just stumbles. It smells of gas after I try to start it a couple times, so it must be getting gas. That's why I checked the ignition system to make sure it's getting spark.

      Thanks

    16. 06-30-2020 03:23 PM #190
      Quote Originally Posted by volcom06 View Post
      Crank position sensor
      - 916 ohms on the cps plug (is this too high?)
      - Same reading on pins 67/68 on ecu connector
      It's high and out of spec. Should be 500-700 ohms.

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      06-30-2020 07:23 PM #191
      Quote Originally Posted by zero. View Post
      It's high and out of spec. Should be 500-700 ohms.
      Really appreciate the reply! I'll look at getting that replaced and go from there.

    18. 06-30-2020 11:10 PM #192
      I'll just add that before you replace you should check if the tach is moving while cranking. If it's not, then it's most likely the sensor. 500-700 ohms is what's stated in the Bentley manual. The ones I've had that were definitely bad that caused stalling and/or starting issues all had readings over 1k.

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      07-01-2020 11:59 AM #193
      Quote Originally Posted by zero. View Post
      I'll just add that before you replace you should check if the tach is moving while cranking. If it's not, then it's most likely the sensor. 500-700 ohms is what's stated in the Bentley manual. The ones I've had that were definitely bad that caused stalling and/or starting issues all had readings over 1k.
      Thanks, I believe I saw that posted elsewhere as well.

      Only thing.. my tach didn't work before the swap kind of flying blind in that regard. I figured it would be cheaper to grab a new crank position sensor than buy a new cluster. Eventually I'll need a new cluster or try to diagnose why mine isn't working.

      I was thinking of connecting the coil to the tach signal wire to see if that would get it to work, but I'll need to car running first.

    20. 07-02-2020 11:04 AM #194
      Yeah, I'd just try the sensor then. Dead tach could be a bad stepper motor. Pretty easy to solder a new one in if you want to retain the cluster mileage instead of replacing the cluster. Part # for them is 91255002

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      07-02-2020 09:19 PM #195
      Was following this post here https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...1#post49496328

      I have a solid ground
      I have constant at 54
      I do not have switched at 23

      My assumption is that the ecu isn't getting powered on because of a bad ecu relay. I have a black 109 relay in there now.

      Hoping I can find one locally quick

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      07-03-2020 03:10 PM #196
      Replaced the 109 relay with a newer version one and still nothing.

      Am I supposed to get power to pin 23 on ecu connector when the key is in the on position (battery light comes on) or cranking position?

      I confirmed continuity from pin 6 on relay 3 to pin 23 on the ecu connector. The relay just isn't getting switched on..


      Edit:
      Going off of my mk3 Bentley..


      I tested continuity from the G1/7 pin to pin 9 on the ecu connector, all good.
      When I test from pin 5 on the relay 3 to pin 9 on the ecu connector I get nothing.. I'm assuming this should work?

      My understanding is this pin turns on the relay for everything? Ugh this is driving me crazy. I've gone through so many tests..
      Last edited by volcom06; 07-03-2020 at 04:35 PM.

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