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    Thread: Guide : Low oil pressure problems. Get rid of them once and for all!

    1. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 10:46 AM #1
      Weather is getting hotter and hotter, and the low oil pressure problems start for us cab drivers.
      Ok, lets start with the basics.
      1.Bentley manual (AKA Bible) states that you must used 20W50 oil for summer and 10W30 for winter use. Or use 15W40 all year.
      Summer

      Winter

      All weather

      2.I prefer to use genuine VW filter or Bosch for peace of mind. Others will work well.

      3. Verify you have no oil leaks. Usual suspects are the valve cover gasket and the oil pan.


      There are two types of valve cover gaskets.The cork and the rubber one. I've used both and I found the rubber one to be the best.
      This is the cork gasket

      and the rubber type which comes with different studs.



      Dynamic Oil Pressure system.
      The dynamic oil pressure system is a circuit in the cluster that determines when the oil pressure is low. The easy way to remember which switch is high and low is to look at where they sit. The high pressure switch is right by the oil pump where the pressure is highest and the low pressure switch is in the head where it is the lowest. They work together to warn you with the flashing LED and the annoying buzzer.
      The 2 switches work together. When the 0.3 bar switch detects pressure less than that, it creates a ground which triggers the led.
      When the pressure is less than 1.8 bar the high pressure switch is grounded. When it goes over 1.8 it opens. The cluster is constantly checking to see if the ground with the high pressure switch is lost. If the tacho reads 2K and over and the ground is lost (pressure less than 1.8 bar) the led starts to flash and the buzzer goes off. Most people are annoyed by the buzzer and find ways to mute it.
      These people are now looking for a replacement engine.
      The system is trying to show you that something is wrong with the lubrication. When you see these symptoms, stop the engine immediately and verify that all wires are connected and if you have an oil pressure gauge that it reads 2bars at 2000rpm with the oil temp arround 90-100 degrees Celcius.

      An easy way to rule out a deffective dual sender is to install a 0.3bar switch (blue in color) directly on the oil filter flange.
      In this photo you see both holes occupied by allen bolts

      Side view with optional water/oil exhange cooler setup

      You should have two switches there currently. One for the oil temp and the high pressure switch. Right next to the high pressure switch you will see an allen bolt. This is where you can screw in your 0.3 bar switch. Extend the yellow cable going to the side of the block all the way to the oil flange and you are set. Now your dynamic oil pressure system is supposed to work 100%
      If everything is connected, you have the appropriate oil/oil filter in the engine and the led is still blonking then its time to start worrying.
      Either your oil pump pickup point is blocked or your main/rod bearing are showing their age. Best way to know for sure is to connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the side of the block and measure the real pressure. Maybe the wires going to the cluster have a problem somewhere and you are getting inaccurate readings.
      This is a link on How to change your oil pump
      if you change the oil pump and you are still experiencing low oil pressure then its obvious that the bearings need to be changed.
      Thats not an easy task and should be the last thing you change after you rule out everything else.



      Modified by Black_cabbie at 5:43 PM 6-20-2005
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

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    3. Banned knappy's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 12:30 PM #2
      nice write up George.....Is this what you have been doing with yourself?

    4. Member bLac K aBriOleT89's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 12:40 PM #3
      Nice work Koutsis!
      "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough"
      -Mario Andretti.

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    6. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 12:59 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by knappy »
      nice write up George.....Is this what you have been doing with yourself?

      One way or another....
      I am going to the garage to remove the camshaft now. One more thing for sale
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    7. Banned knappy's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 01:07 PM #5
      I want your cam gear

    8. 06-20-2005 02:48 PM #6
      Hey George,
      I thought U were gonna sell the cabby at the end of the summer...are u now rebuildin the engine? (Hehe,,the cabby addiction has grabbed you hard my friend )

    9. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 03:21 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by knappy »
      I want your cam gear

      IM me.... I already told someone else but if its for you, I'll tell him I broke it
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    10. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 03:23 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by mgyver74 »
      Hey George,
      I thought U were gonna sell the cabby at the end of the summer...are u now rebuildin the engine? (Hehe,,the cabby addiction has grabbed you hard my friend )

      I had a good offer for the camshaft which has less than 8k kms on it. So it was time to remove it and paint the valve cover once again. Engine bay looks so clean now!!!!
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    11. Banned knappy's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 03:26 PM #9
      IM sent

    12. 06-20-2005 04:13 PM #10
      Did you fit your oil cooler?

    13. Member Black_cabbie's Avatar
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      06-20-2005 04:34 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by meinit »
      Did you fit your oil cooler?

      No Joe, Its still in the box you sent it to me.
      Chip Tuning for a living @ www.microchips-tuning.com

    14. 11-18-2005 10:58 AM #12
      The buzzer & led are going off on my 82 scirocco sometimes, usually when it's cold out and I rev above 2000 rpm. It stops when my engine warms up. So now I am doing my research.
      I don't understand part of your post. You state:
      "When the pressure is less than 1.8 bar the high pressure switch is grounded. When it goes over 1.8 it opens. The cluster is constantly checking to see if the ground with the high pressure switch is lost. If the tacho reads 2K and over and the ground is lost (pressure less than 1.8 bar) the led starts to flash and the buzzer goes off."
      If the switch opens when the pressure is above 1.8 bar and the buzzer goes off if the switch is open, then wouldn't that mean that the pressure is more than 1.8 bar, not less than 1.8 bar as you say above between ()?
      And I think I only have one of the two sensors in my 82.
      Thanks,
      greanie

    15. Member tolusina's Avatar
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      11-18-2005 12:09 PM #13
      Mike,
      Quote, originally posted by greanie »
      ....I don't understand part of your post. You state:
      "When the pressure is less than 1.8 bar the high pressure switch is grounded. When it goes over 1.8 it opens. .......

      It's hard to understand because it's completely backwards.
      The low pressure switch works just like ordinary oil pressure switches, it is closed to light the light with zero to low pressure, once pressure builds, the light goes out. The low pressure switch is typically on the driver's side of the cylinder head, it's either brown or it's part of the dual function oil pressure gauge sender,
      The Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System (call it DOPWS) adds a normally open switch that closes at 1.8 bar ± 0.2 bar. If the DOPWS reads engine RPM over 2000 and the high pressure switch is not closed, the light and buzzer go off. The high pressure switch is mounted on the oil filter flange, it is typically white, the black switch is cheating, lying.
      VW did have variations of the system that used only the high pressure switch, sorry I can't remember everything I used to know, I don't recall which models used the single switch.
      Consult your Bentley for the particulars of your car. Replace the high pressure switch as a first step, they are about $8.00. Buy it from a VW dealer or VW specialist, it's different enough that NAPA, AutoZone and the like will be totally clueless on this topic.
      I see I have broken one of my forum rules posting a detailed response to a first time poster, please prove my rule bad and comment back one way or the other, OK?
      Ron
      Quote Originally Posted by kamzcab86
      I hate reading: "But I bought this car for $500 and don't want to put another dime into it."
      ____(hey, it's VW AND it's electrical, what's not to fail?) neoBentley+



    16. Member MrWizard's Avatar
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      11-21-2005 01:25 PM #14
      Great thread
      Thanks!
      VAG-COM Owner
      337 Build

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      11-21-2005 01:33 PM #15
      don't forget about faulty intermediate shaft bearings causing oil pressure issues...
      see the thread about the problem I had here:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1919578
      and here:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1923567 (pics)

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