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    Thread: Go ahead...ask those car questions you were always afraid to ask...

    1. Member
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      10-15-2019 11:35 AM #7301
      Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?

      I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously.

      Shouldn't the shop still have the sticker or be able to replace it? Has anyone been in a similar situation? Is this situation bigger than what I believe?

      Carfax report showed the car is clean, although I did notice a vague "service report" done by a "service facility". I either missed it or didn't think much about it. The car was straight and paint job was done really well. Although I did notice a very minor crease across the rear pillar

      Is this something that could be replaced at all?

      TIA

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    3. Member
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      10-15-2019 12:21 PM #7302
      Quote Originally Posted by bombardi View Post
      Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?

      I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously.

      Shouldn't the shop still have the sticker or be able to replace it? Has anyone been in a similar situation? Is this situation bigger than what I believe?

      Carfax report showed the car is clean, although I did notice a vague "service report" done by a "service facility". I either missed it or didn't think much about it. The car was straight and paint job was done really well. Although I did notice a very minor crease across the rear pillar

      Is this something that could be replaced at all?

      TIA
      I'd try the dealership first.

      Could this be it?

      https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...w2LWdhcw%3D%3D
      Last edited by bnkrpt311; 10-15-2019 at 12:24 PM.

    4. Member cuppie's Avatar
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      88 Scirocco 16v (Wilda); 02 Passat 1.8T wagon (the Brick); 02 Passat V6 4Mo wagon (wife's). Past: :D
      10-15-2019 12:57 PM #7303
      There should actually be both a 'tire pressure info' label (linked to above), and a VIN / certification label.
      They are available as 'spare parts', thru your friendly dealer parts dept. And, yes, the body shop that fixed the car should have taken care of that, as part of the repair. Boo on them, and boo on the PO for not making sure it happened then.
      - Cup
      '88 Scirocco 16v, 'tastefully' modified.
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      things currently broken (Scirocco): 4
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    5. Member Dravenport's Avatar
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      10-30-2019 02:27 PM #7304
      what's up with the plastic grille piece as seen here:



      I've only ever seen it on hyundai/kia/genesis cars i think, but it's not particularly attractive
      Quote Originally Posted by westopher View Post
      If you want to spend a bunch of money for something to look at, buy a painting. I'll happily drive my car til its worth nothing.
      Quote Originally Posted by JalopnikMatt View Post
      Since my presence has been requested, Beetlejuice-style, I'll address the current controversy:
      Yes, the Prius is the greatest car ever made.

    6. Member VWestlife's Avatar
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      10-30-2019 02:36 PM #7305
      Quote Originally Posted by Dravenport View Post
      what's up with the plastic grille piece as seen here:



      I've only ever seen it on hyundai/kia/genesis cars i think, but it's not particularly attractive
      It's for the adaptive cruise control:

      https://jalopnik.com/car-designers-n...gri-1794677512
      __________

    7. Member adrew's Avatar
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      10-30-2019 02:38 PM #7306
      It's the radar unit for cruise and auto braking.

      Some are better integrated...


      ...than others


      Most Toyotas hide it inside the badge on the front — but if they don't have the badge, it's gotta go somewhere.

      Improving the signal-to-noise ratio

    8. Member Dravenport's Avatar
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      10-30-2019 03:29 PM #7307
      hah i was wondering why toyota badges looked so weird lately
      Quote Originally Posted by westopher View Post
      If you want to spend a bunch of money for something to look at, buy a painting. I'll happily drive my car til its worth nothing.
      Quote Originally Posted by JalopnikMatt View Post
      Since my presence has been requested, Beetlejuice-style, I'll address the current controversy:
      Yes, the Prius is the greatest car ever made.

    9. Don't be me. Don't be a 'Rick' Cabin Pics's Avatar
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      10-30-2019 04:31 PM #7308
      Quote Originally Posted by bombardi View Post
      Have any of you had to replace the manufacturer VIN sticker that is on the door jam after body work has been done?

      I recently found out the VIN sticker on my M2 is missing. I reached out to the previous driver, he claims the car was parked on the street when a lady backed up into the driver rear quarter panel. Said it was minor and gave me info of the shop that did the work. I reached out to the shop and they wouldn't give me any information. They said I would have to go to the DMV about retrieving another sticker. I asked "I need to ask the DMV for a sticker that comes from the manufacturer?" They weren't much help obviously.

      Shouldn't the shop still have the sticker or be able to replace it? Has anyone been in a similar situation? Is this situation bigger than what I believe?

      Carfax report showed the car is clean, although I did notice a vague "service report" done by a "service facility". I either missed it or didn't think much about it. The car was straight and paint job was done really well. Although I did notice a very minor crease across the rear pillar

      Is this something that could be replaced at all?

      TIA
      Dealership can get the sticker for you. May have to speak to someone above the parts desk. They will probably want verification that you do own the car.

      I just got mine ordered, wasn't bad. Less than $50.
      Instagram - efrie004

    10. 11-08-2019 01:28 AM #7309
      Bit of a quagmire. I bought a 95 BMW E36 M3 in Boston Green. It was an impulse buy and I needed automotive validation. It's straight but needs a lot of TLC. Clear coat is done, floors are dented in from PO missing the jack points (or hitting something idk) and interior work. VCG is also leaking INTO the freakin spark plug well, despite replacement and RTV It's also got some cracking on the strut tower and likely on the subframes or RTAB or swaybar mount.

      I like it well enough but I don't love it. Kinda at a lost of what to do with it. Dunno if it'll even pass smog.

      What would TLC do? I'd post in the E36 thread, but this thread seems like it'll get the most objective response.

    11. Member
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      11-08-2019 10:54 AM #7310
      Quote Originally Posted by fizay View Post
      Bit of a quagmire. I bought a 95 BMW E36 M3 in Boston Green. It was an impulse buy and I needed automotive validation. It's straight but needs a lot of TLC. Clear coat is done, floors are dented in from PO missing the jack points (or hitting something idk) and interior work. VCG is also leaking INTO the freakin spark plug well, despite replacement and RTV It's also got some cracking on the strut tower and likely on the subframes or RTAB or swaybar mount.

      I like it well enough but I don't love it. Kinda at a lost of what to do with it. Dunno if it'll even pass smog.

      What would TLC do? I'd post in the E36 thread, but this thread seems like it'll get the most objective response.
      Depends on your patience, both for finishing the project and for frustration. If you don't mind committing to a project that's going to [realistically] last over a year, don't mind rapping your knuckles now and then and getting dirty often, and knowing there's a chance you might find something you can't fix, nothing there sounds all that terrible. On a car like that if you take it slow, fix one thing at a time, eventually you'll have it sorted. But if you try to power through everything in two weeks, you'll end up wanting to take a sledgehammer to it.

      Biggest thing to overcome is the cracks; I would probably consult with bimmerpost on those, someone must've dealt with it before. I'd definitely want to make sure there's a fix (and available parts!) for those things before getting started. Good luck!

    12. Member Mr Miyagi's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 02:54 PM #7311
      What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?

    13. Member Jimmy Russells's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 02:55 PM #7312
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr Miyagi View Post
      What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?
      It will de-rate and make no power

    14. Member simple's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 03:02 PM #7313
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr Miyagi View Post
      What happens if you don't put DEF/Blue stuff into a modern Diesel (Mercedes)?
      The computer will refuse to run the vehicle. My Q5 gives messages when the DEF is low. If you ignore until empty it will shut down the car.
      If you can't measure it, you can't understand it; if you can't understand it, you can't control it.

      As said on BAT "We’ll burn this guy to high hell for lowering his car but we will bid 6 figures on safari builds. Come on son" - 2mAn

    15. Member XClayX's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 03:22 PM #7314
      I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.

    16. Learning New Things Every Day. GreenandChrome's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 03:32 PM #7315
      Quote Originally Posted by XClayX View Post
      I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.
      tire.
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    17. Member
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      11-08-2019 03:35 PM #7316
      Quote Originally Posted by XClayX View Post
      I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.
      Door card = pressure recommend for running
      Printed on tire = do not exceed pressure

      IMO the only times you shouldn't run the door card pressure is:
      • If you know specifically why to run something else (e.g. track use, off road use, etc.)
      • You're using a different size tire from what's listed
      • The tires are rated lower than the door card. But you shouldn't be using those tires on that car in this case.

    18. Member
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      11-08-2019 03:39 PM #7317
      Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
      The computer will refuse to run the vehicle. My Q5 gives messages when the DEF is low. If you ignore until empty it will shut down the car.
      Yep. It gives you so many miles/starts and then it won't start until it's refueled. DEF isn't expensive or difficult to fill though, so IMO there's no good reason not to.

    19. Member Surf Green's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 03:44 PM #7318
      Quote Originally Posted by XClayX View Post
      I was told at one time to always follow the door card tire pressure recommendations and NOT on the tire. Example, lets say your OEM tires are 33psi max and you replace them with 44psi max tires. Anyone else hear this before? I've always just ran what the tire says.
      Tires typically cite a maximum safe cold inflation pressure which, for car tires, ranges between 44 and 51 pounds.
      The door jamb is the manu's recommended tire pressure.

      Most people follow the door jamb. I go higher than that for less rolling resistance, but typically don't get close to the pressure limitation on the tire.
      I keep up with traffic with only 90 hp. What's your superpower?
      2002 Golf Wagon TDI, 200k - 2007 Fuji Heavy Industries WRB WRX Wagon, 115k
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      Grammatical and spelling errors may be intentional

    20. Member Jimmy Russells's Avatar
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      11-08-2019 04:37 PM #7319
      Quote Originally Posted by ghost03 View Post
      Door card = pressure recommend for running
      Printed on tire = do not exceed pressure

      IMO the only times you shouldn't run the door card pressure is:
      • If you know specifically why to run something else (e.g. track use, off road use, etc.)
      • You're using a different size tire from what's listed
      • The tires are rated lower than the door card. But you shouldn't be using those tires on that car in this case.

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