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    Thread: rattling

    1. 12-29-2005 02:38 AM #1
      My 88 cabriolet has a definite rattling problem. At idle, and it constant velocity it never fails. It was suggested the issue could lie with the engine mounts being the cause of the rattling dash components (CD player, seat belt buckles), but that was ruled out by the mechanics. I found and fixed a lose connection in the exhaust near the muffler and this did no good. Any suggestions?

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    3. 12-29-2005 03:26 AM #2
      All of my VW's exhaust's rattled..
      does it sound like it's coming from under the car or under the hood?

    4. Senior Member briano1234's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 20th, 2004
      Atlanta Ga
      90, 92, 93 Cabriolet They own you.
      12-29-2005 04:35 AM #3
      go buy all new motor mounts, your problems will go away.
      The motor mounts in my honest opinion are the bane of rabbits.
      When they fail on the tranny or the engine passengers side, they cause the engine to drop about a half an inch and you see an increase of vibration ie: the rear view mirror vibrates at idle. Loud clunking when going over bumps as the motor is moving up and down, and you swear it is coming from the strut or the door.
      The shifter binds a bit because the linkage are out of alignment.

      The way they are installed they have rubber sandwiches on both sides, and honestly you can't see it if is bad or not. The only two that you can see are the front radiator and the rear tranny mount. But what you can see is that the engine is leaning to one side of the car.
      I have a bad engine mount, and I know it, I am waiting for christmas to come and Santa will magically change it. If you look carefully, you will see my engine is leaning to the left. I have all the tell-tell signs rattles, clunks, and a leaning engine.

      The driver side tranny mount is made the same as the engine passenger mount.
      When you replace the mounts insert a 4.5 mm socket under them, it takes some fo the strain off the top rubber, the bottom is supported, and when it gives up the ghost, you will see the increased vibration. Your motor won't travel the 1/2 inch over bumps, your dash wont vibrate as much, but your shift linkage will still be in alignment.

      To show you the differences that I have seen. They are a pain in the ass to change, and they are noisy little sh#$ts when they go.
      The addition of the 4.5 mm or what ever you can wedge in there, makes them last about twice as long.
      Good luck.

      Modified by briano1234 at 4:42 AM 12-29-2005

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    6. 10-11-2006 09:29 AM #4
      what motor mounts would you recommment. from where.

    7. Member tolusina's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2004
      '95 Ranger, '81 Trek
      10-12-2006 03:08 AM #5
      Quote, originally posted by tomatoman »
      what motor mounts would you recommment. from where.

      TT has several choices, sets, with and without brackets...

      BFI is running this offer....
      The inserts they offer can actually do what the pic above tries to do, but cannot.
      You can shop for full urethane mounts if you like, most report that they are too harsh.
      Rubber ones don't last real long, these have only 40k or so, about 1 1/2 years old, front was a TT H.D.

      Modified by tolusina at 8:53 AM 12-29-2006
      Quote Originally Posted by kamzcab86
      I hate reading: "But I bought this car for $500 and don't want to put another dime into it."
      ____(hey, it's VW AND it's electrical, what's not to fail?) neoBentley+

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