I thought I'd throw this together as I'm just about done...but due to Murphy's law something is bound to go wrong.
So, much like my Turbo thread please throw in your $.02 and help if you can.
(I'll update this list as I remember items I used)
** basic sockets/hand tools (30mm for axle/driveshaft hub bolts)
** angle grinder
** 12mm X 1.50 die for threading the shifter rod if you want to keep your exising mk3 golf ball shifter. Note: The mk4's don't use a thread, it seems they use some other mechanism - you'll see when you get your shifter box and cables.
** welder (I had someone do it - more info will be below)
** engine hoist
** triple square socket (for driveshaft to tranny bolts)
** 4 jackstands (or a lift)
** extra jack
** drill and drill bit for drilling through metal (shifter box)
** an accurate laser measure (measuring for custom-length axles) - or you can trust my measuring which would be specific to my car and the way my motor sits in the engine bay with the re-located motor mount.
Equipment purchased for swap:
(I'll update this list as I remember what else I bought)
** 02m 6speed Tranny, flywheel, clutch, starter, shifter box & cables off of ANY 24v VR6 model car (one example is 2003 Jetta GLi, but I believe 2002 had a GTi version with 24v's).
Disclaimer: be very careful when ordering parts at the dealership - make sure it shows the 6sp transmission on his ETKA. While I'm unsure exactly which car had the 24v o2m combo I DO KNOW that the 2003 Jetta GLi did. Be careful again, I believe in '04 it went to the 1.8t motor.
** 24V VR6 Tstat housing (this is because the 12v housing actually interferes with the transmission when you shift)
** 24V Tstat housing bolts. This housing is longer than the 12v so even the long bolts from the mk3 version won't work.
** 24v upper and lower radiator hoses...b/c the oem hoses have too many 'kinks' in them due to the different angles of the new tstat housing outlets (pointing in different directions now)
** Don't forget to order new axle nuts for your axles (on the spline where the hub is) b/c I'm pretty sure they are one-time-use only.
** Custom-made trans mount (I'll talk more about this later, there are a couple ways to go about securing the trans to the subframe)
** "Modified" existing front mount (let this be your last worry as it's not that complicated)
** Custom axles (some have cut down 02m axles but they aren't cheap to buy and then customize)
** 24V 02m slave cylinder line (you can't just connect your existing slave line to the o2m. This needs to be modified.
** Flywheel-to-crank and clutch bolts (24v vr6 o2m)
** Don't forget to get the harness/plugs for trans speed sensor and reverse light (b/c your mk3 12v vr6 plugs don't match up).
My "Method" of swap (some things can be done differently if you use your imagination.
The trans bolts right up to the 12v vr6 motor. Before you do this, you'll need to remove the old flywheel/clutch assembly (of course) and re-install with new dealer-sourced bolts. Once torqued down you can install the transmission.
I did it by pulling the motor out entirely. And I'd suggest you do it also if you plan on moving the transmission mount. And even if you make your own mount you'll probably need that room anyway.
That is your biggest hurdle (besides the driveshafts), getting the rear mount situation "fixed". Once you've done that you can put the motor back in.
while the motor is out I pulled the exhaust to allow myself room to get the stock shifter box out. Use your Bentley here and you'll figure out how that comes out...it's fairly straight-forward yet a pain at the same time (bolts up top in the pass compartment and also underneith).
Once the old box was out I test-fitted the new one. Problem is, no bolt holes match up. This is where your mechanical and creative proficiency come in...find a way to mount your box (like that?)
Once that is done you can put the motor back in (if you do it with the motor out of course).
Once your motor is back in all you are doing is swapping some sensor plugs on the trans, hooking up the coolant hoses, swapping the starters and grounds, etc...
Oh, one last thing....you can now install the axles. I made it easier by unbolting the ball joint to allow movement of the control arm to get the new ones in. You can do it any way you want - there may be an easier way to do any of this, I'm just documenting what I've done.
Ok, now for the specifics (with pics and in no particular order) :
Here's why I went this route anyway:
I somehow broke my bolt kit on the peloquin and it spewed out silver paint.
I wanted a beefier trans that had oem parts availability. What I've heard from some reliable sources is that the O2m (in stock form) has been able to hold well over 450-500whp/trq on AWD cars. EIP's R32 held up to a bit more than that for a long time - and that is with traction. So I figured it was a good choice.
The 02m Shifter box/cables:
And of course the o2m/clutch/starter:
The slave cylinder line (you can only get the "round thing" in my left hand by ordering the entire line - and no, it's not listed as a slave cylinder):
That connector b/w my thumb and left index finger plugs into the slave cylinder assembly (which *should* be on the trans when you buy it). You can see it on the picture below...it's hard to see, but is right above the starter and has a yellow cap on the end (that yellow cap was put in there to keep fluid from seeping out during shipment).
Here is the trans mount that I sourced from dutchdub.com:
Here's the link: (Updated June 2008) and scroll about half-way down to see more pics.
The problem with this mount is it's not PERFECT. I think that's because it's meant for an AWD (ie. R32 tranny) conversion. It gets you close but not quite. if you use this mount you MUST cut off and re-locate your "cup" that sits on the rear subframe
Here's how I did it...
I cut it out:
And attached it to the transmission mount that I got from dutchdub:
By doing this, I can simply put the motor back in the car, bolt down the other two mounts and see where the cup "sits".
That's when I called the welder and had him stick weld it in one small spot (just to keep the mount there when I pulled the motor again).
This way you get the perfect fit.
I then pulled the motor and allowed him to get about 85% of the mounts' circumference welded (factory design had less then that maybe for drainage? So I didn't stress when he couldn't get all the way around it).
Here's what we ended up with:
Here's what I did to mount the o2m shifter box in the car...
It's hard to see, but there is one bolt that I drilled through the middle of the shift box and also through the bottom of the car. It's on the part of the shifter b/w the shifter and radio area (behind the stick shift).
The other two washers are going to take bolts that go into existing threads in the box itself. I put rubber washers in it to keep vibration down.
As you can see in the above pic I just cut a piece of angle iron and drilled holes through it to make a steady fasten. Time will tell if this will hold up...if not, I'll have it welded. Here's a pic:
Here's my custom driveshafts from The Driveshaft Shop
The length of the driveshafts (as measured from the "flat" of the inside of the hub just above the ball joint/knuckle):
Measured at ride-height. If you are up on jackstands you can simulate ride-height (according to driveshaft shop) but sitting the jackstands in the front under the knuckle in the front suspension.
**Remember, this is total length and the point it was measured from was discussed with the driveshaft shop. If you are unsure exactly where to measure from ask who is doing your axles**
If you are doing it using 02m axles then you'll need to find the amount needed to cut off and go from there.
These driveshafts are "Level 2" which they said are made to hold 350whp. FYI, they cost about $750
And on the drivers side I've got room even with the relocated mount:
And another closeup pic of the driveshaft itself:
So this is where I'm at...I'm just waiting on some misc parts to arrive at the dealer (they ordered me the wrong bolts for the driveshaft to tranny fasteners).
There are two connectors on the tranny: One in back (I think the speed sensor) and one up front towards the starter (I'm not sure what that is) but both of them have different connectors than the 12v 02a...so you'll have to swap them out.
New info as of Feb 24, 2009
****Assuming your o2a/VR6 MK3 has the same color wires this is what you need to do to get your O2M speed sensor to wire up to your MK3 wire harness****
Get your hands on an o2M speed sensor (Hopefully it came with the trans) AND the plug/wiring that comes out of it.
Now cut your o2a speed sensor plug off of the harness and solder the wires like so (OEM 02a wiring on left - o2m on right):
Black -----> Black/White
Blue/White -----> Blue/White
Red/Green -----> Brown.
I have added pictures on a post dated Feb 24th, 2009.
Other than that, I just swapped over the starter cables/grounds/etc... and started wiring her up.
I'm having an issue getting pressure in the clutch slave cylinder (clutch pedal at the floor) but I think that may just be an issue of me losing some and bleeding it out.
I'm sure I left a few things out, I'll add in stuff as I remember. And I'll keep adding to this thread as I progress.
Don't go with my measurements on the axles until you double check them for yourself...I have yet to test drive the car so I could run into some issues. My goal is to update this thread/post after I drive it to verify that the axles are perfect and everything is fine.
Until then, please use this thread as an informational source only and that you could end up with a totally different scenario than I.
Where I sourced my parts:
02m trans and related parts: Dean at BVA Motorsports
Slave and other oem parts: vw dealer
Driveshafts: The driveshaft shop
Hope this is a good source of info. If anybody has other info to add please do so!
EDIT: 5.30.06 to add a couple items I forgot to purchase for the swap.
EDIT: 6.2.06 tool list addition.
EDIT: 2.24.09 Added specific info on wiring of speed sensor so odometer/speedometer can work.
Modified by nater at 10:01 PM 2-24-2009