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    Thread: ATP GT28RS Eliminator: Everything you need to know Part I

    1. Former Advertiser
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      08-17-2006 01:44 PM #1
      Hey guys-
      Our ATP GT28RS Eliminator turbo and hi-flo manifold combination has arrived in all of its’ glory. It is being installed on our resident GTI 1.8T roadracer. Here are some pics of the combination in it’s new condition. Little do these young recruits know that they will soon be grown men, battling away in temperatures that make the depths of hell look like Siberia:




      Pics of the exhaust wheel and wastegate:




      Manifold Comparison Pics:
      We had been running a PAG Parts GT series manifold on the car in combination with a GT28RS. We recommend the PAG Parts manifold without reservation. It took a hell of beating, and came out in perfect shape. The relief cuts in the PAG manifold are not standard, but something we do with all of our installs. Here are some pics comparing the ATP Hi-flo with the PAG Parts unit:



      The exhaust port sizing is essentially identical:



      We also purchased ATPs Big Bore inlet. Here are pictures comparing the standard inlet to the Big Bore:



      As with all things ATP, we expect there to be some issues with installation. Here are the main areas for concern when installing this kit. Please remember that some issues we highlight are not truly issues for street and drag cars. Since this car is used on road courses a lot, the temperatures and stresses are FAR greater than anything you will see on the street. That is why, as with all of our installs, we take the time and effort to do it right for maximum longevity.

      The oil line placement is too close to the exhaust manifold and turbine sections for our comfort:


      Again, this placement should be fine for a street/drag car. We will be installing about 4-5 inches of hardline before transitioning to braided line. This way there is no chance of the Teflon liner melting and rupturing.

      For better longevity and less warping, we cut expansive grooves into the manifold before mounting:



      We then sanded the face of the manifold to ensure straightness after cutting the expansion grooves:

      For a smoother and more hassle free install, the manifold should be sanded and ground in a couple of places. Here is some tiny interference with the compressor cover:


      ATP provides 12mm nuts with the manifold. We prefer to use the OEM 13mm shouldered nuts on the left for stronger retention:


      When using these sized nuts, you will not be able to wrench them on as they will hit the manifold tubes:


      To ease installation of the manifold, we ground and smoothed the manifold near the bolts:


      Even with the grinding, you will still need to use 12mm nuts in two places:

      Here is the manifold bolted in place:


      The GHL 3” Downpipe did not clear the turbine housing. The flange on the GHL appears to be slightly larger/thicker than stock, so if you are using a stock a stock DP, this might not be an issue:


      We hit it with the belt sander to make it work:



      Here is the biggest stumbling block so far. With the manifold in place, the bolt closest to the head will not fit in.

      We tried a number of ways, and it did not work. Your two choices are to install the bolt before you completely bolt the manifold to the head, or to buy an appropriate length stud:


      So that the turbo ends up being bolted like so:


      Stay tuned for more tech notes in Part II, and driving impressions in Part III.

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    3. Member Here's Johnny's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 01:48 PM #2
      Nicw write-up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Quote Originally Posted by A.Wilder View Post
      this is TCL, if you ask what kind of vehicle is recommended for Rhinoceros delivery someone would suggest a Miata.

    4. Member oj1480's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 01:51 PM #3
      Quote, originally posted by Here’s Johnny »
      Nicw write-up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      x2 [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. Member oj1480's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 01:52 PM #4
      how much HP/Torque will this baby pushing?

    6. 08-17-2006 02:13 PM #5
      Well done!!!

    7. 08-17-2006 02:17 PM #6
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    8. 08-17-2006 02:25 PM #7
      awesome writeup, I'll look forward for part II and III

    9. 08-17-2006 02:26 PM #8
      This is awsome. This will finally end all the discusion about the Eliminator Kit. I just wish yo u were doing it on a 6 Speed so I could see what is involved with that, I hear its a very big mess.
      Also, What size stud did you use where you replaced the bolt.
      Great Job.

    10. Member inivid's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 02:41 PM #9
      kick ass writeup guys. keep it up. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Quote Originally Posted by Travy View Post
      error404: Stance not found.

    11. 08-17-2006 02:46 PM #10
      Great write-up, I think this is a great start to all the information that everyone has been wanting.

    12. Member
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      08-17-2006 02:46 PM #11
      great write up mike [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      i would think that wrenchers with lesser experience would consider this kit install to be barely worthy of the term 'bolt on'. after all is said & done it doesn't look like much less work then the 'custom' route, but looking forward to the results just the same.

    13. Member Durbo20vT's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 02:50 PM #12
      very nice writeup/ explanation.
      wonder how it would compare on the track.

    14. Banned under boost's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 03:10 PM #13
      nice write up mike. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] keeping an eye out.
      as for the turbo>mani bolts, i would agree, that thi is something i'm sure people wouldn't have known until it was to late. deff drop it in before installing the mani. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] also, i hope people realize you need patience when installing an upgraded turbo. regardless of how "drop in" it is. prefit, everything with the set-up on the table. if not, you'll run into problems.


      Modified by under boost at 2:11 PM 8-17-2006

    15. Member Mikes72sb's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 03:13 PM #14
      Nice write-up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] I'm curious to see how it does compared to a "real" 28rs.
      2017 Ford Escape 2.0 EcoBoost Titanium

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    16. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 03:17 PM #15
      hell yea its alot nice knowing what to shave before assembly, even if you preassemble as much as you can you still cant see some of the issues. thanks bro for paving the way and helping us all out. Thanks for shaving
      im debating pag custom or atp elim still if the elim can be made to work the first time id go with it so i dnt have to change dp and more down time. Still props to PAG from awesome looking parts. Now i just need to find an almost "perfect" tune setup before i order my stuff. Still to many people popping blocks on bull**** tunes


      Modified by theswoleguy at 2:19 PM 8-17-2006
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    17. 08-17-2006 03:21 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by jschweg »
      Great write-up, I think this is a great start to all the information that everyone has been wanting.

      X2. keep it up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    18. 08-17-2006 03:43 PM #17
      Were you going to use ATP's new turbo inlet pipe? Or do you have something else in mind?

    19. Member
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      08-17-2006 03:49 PM #18
      Mike, I have been installing one of these exact kits on a car this week (GT28RS w/ high flow mani + big bore intake)
      Here are some more to add, and further explain your findings...
      #1 The manifold positions the turbo so that the compressor housing is really close to the lower left (drivers side) bolt hole. ATP tells you to grind this to allow clearance and to swap the stud/nut for the button head allen bolt. QUADRUPLE CHECK the clearance and make sure the turbo will bolt to the manifold WITH the allen head bolt. The clearance issue is more with the bolt, and not the flange area of the manifold. We essentially cut down the thickness of the flange for that hole where the overall thickness of the ground flange part + button head allen bolt = the original thickness of the manifold. PUT THIS THING TOGETHER BEFORE TRYING TO DO IT IN THE CAR!!!

      #2 BEFORE INSTALLING TURBO, install the coolant drain to the turbo (part against the block). The coolant drain cannot be installed to the turbo with the turbo mounted. The coolant feed (towards firewall), oil drain (facing down) and oil feed (facing up) can all be accessed without the turbo mounted. Mike if you thought the feed was close, we ended up routing the coolant feed line over the turbo and down to the port... which comes VERY close to the oil feed. Speaking of which... DONT TIGHTEN the coolant feed OR the oil feed until you get positioning of both. I couldnt get the oil feed threads started with the coolant feed tightened. Had to loosen the coolant feed, **** it a little sideways, start the oil feed, re-position the lines, then tighten.
      #3 as you saw, you have to put the back turbo->mani bolt in BEFORE installing the manifold. This is simple fix so long as you put the bolt in before installing manifold. The difficulty comes when you have the bolt in and the manifold mounted. That bolt becomes a stud, making lining up the bolt holes for the turbo diffcult. You'll need 4 hands to mount the turbo... one person holds up that bolt so the turbo doesnt catch on it and you can move the turbo around flush against the manifold. That same person uses their other hand to align the bolt holes, and start the back 2 bolts. I suggest leaving the front bolt for last because you can line up (by looking through) the rear 2 holes and the front hole will be FAR easier to get started. The other 2 hands (other person) holds the weight of the turbo from underneath and pushes up. Basically: bottom person holds the weight, while top person aligns, holds the front bolt up, and starts all 3 bolts

      Everyone do yourself a favor, save yourself some trouble, read what Mike and I wrote, and buy us a beer the next time you see us.
      Roll Tide & War Eagle but stuck in LSU Country
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    20. 08-17-2006 04:00 PM #19
      Great job Mike and Joe. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Joe, wrenching on a 1.8t?

    21. Member
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      08-17-2006 04:06 PM #20
      Also to add...
      I did not get to finish installing the oil drain (ran out of time) and the owner is going to try to finish it tonight. The oil drain is REDICULOUSLY close to the axle. This means taking off the axle at the flange is pretty much essential. BUT dont let taking off the axle screw up your routing. What I suggested to the owner finishing the install is to remove the axle at the flange and install the SS line using teflon paste. The 45 degree at the oil drain flange on the turbo, is going to have to be turned towards the block, almost as much as possible. I told him after installing the SS line, to go back and turn the 45 towards the block, then mock up the axle to check for clearance. You may end up having to turn the 45 more either way to get clearance. Then route the drain SS line laterally along the block and down to the oil drain flange/adapter at the oil pan. Make sure the fittings and 90 degree at the adapter run vertically and that the entire drain line flows downhill to the oilpan.
      Also, we could not get the stock turbo outlet rubber hose to connect the turbo outlet to stock IC piping (too short). Owner is running to pick up a radiator hose 90 to cut/chop to fit.
      I will report how it turns out.
      Roll Tide & War Eagle but stuck in LSU Country
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    22. Member
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      08-17-2006 04:13 PM #21
      Quote, originally posted by QuickK03Crap »
      Joe, wrenching on a 1.8t?

      My scared hands and my blood left on his SS lines, block, and oil pan remind me why I hate working on 1.8Ts.

      BTW - AT THIS POINT THE ELIMINATOR HAS NOT BEEN ANY CHEAPER OR EASIER TO INSTALL THAN NON ELIM KIT!!! (when changing manifolds)
      I really don't see the advantage of eliminator.
      Roll Tide & War Eagle but stuck in LSU Country
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    23. Banned under boost's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 04:18 PM #22
      Quote, originally posted by KrautFed »
      My scared hands and my blood left on his SS lines, block, and oil pan remind me why I hate working on 1.8Ts.

      BTW - AT THIS POINT THE ELIMINATOR HAS NOT BEEN ANY CHEAPER OR EASIER TO INSTALL THAN NON ELIM KIT!!! (when changing manifolds)
      I really don't see the advantage of eliminator.

      i have said this since day one. only thing i could come up with is for the peeps who have visual inspections for non carb mods (ie:california)

    24. 08-17-2006 04:24 PM #23
      Paying for a marginally better manifold and a retarded turbine housing so you can reuse your DP. Makes perfect sense.

    25. Member SHUMopper's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 04:28 PM #24
      Excellent writeup Mike...quality pics as well.
      Hope to hear that you have good results on the road course with this setup.

    26. Member brookrock's Avatar
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      08-17-2006 05:09 PM #25
      Great write up! I can't wait until your done with it [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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