Our ATP GT28RS Eliminator turbo and hi-flo manifold combination has arrived in all of its’ glory. It is being installed on our resident GTI 1.8T roadracer. Here are some pics of the combination in it’s new condition. Little do these young recruits know that they will soon be grown men, battling away in temperatures that make the depths of hell look like Siberia:
Pics of the exhaust wheel and wastegate:
Manifold Comparison Pics:
We had been running a PAG Parts GT series manifold on the car in combination with a GT28RS. We recommend the PAG Parts manifold without reservation. It took a hell of beating, and came out in perfect shape. The relief cuts in the PAG manifold are not standard, but something we do with all of our installs. Here are some pics comparing the ATP Hi-flo with the PAG Parts unit:
The exhaust port sizing is essentially identical:
We also purchased ATPs Big Bore inlet. Here are pictures comparing the standard inlet to the Big Bore:
As with all things ATP, we expect there to be some issues with installation. Here are the main areas for concern when installing this kit. Please remember that some issues we highlight are not truly issues for street and drag cars. Since this car is used on road courses a lot, the temperatures and stresses are FAR greater than anything you will see on the street. That is why, as with all of our installs, we take the time and effort to do it right for maximum longevity.
The oil line placement is too close to the exhaust manifold and turbine sections for our comfort:
Again, this placement should be fine for a street/drag car. We will be installing about 4-5 inches of hardline before transitioning to braided line. This way there is no chance of the Teflon liner melting and rupturing.
For better longevity and less warping, we cut expansive grooves into the manifold before mounting:
We then sanded the face of the manifold to ensure straightness after cutting the expansion grooves:
For a smoother and more hassle free install, the manifold should be sanded and ground in a couple of places. Here is some tiny interference with the compressor cover:
ATP provides 12mm nuts with the manifold. We prefer to use the OEM 13mm shouldered nuts on the left for stronger retention:
When using these sized nuts, you will not be able to wrench them on as they will hit the manifold tubes:
To ease installation of the manifold, we ground and smoothed the manifold near the bolts:
Even with the grinding, you will still need to use 12mm nuts in two places:
Here is the manifold bolted in place:
The GHL 3” Downpipe did not clear the turbine housing. The flange on the GHL appears to be slightly larger/thicker than stock, so if you are using a stock a stock DP, this might not be an issue:
We hit it with the belt sander to make it work:
Here is the biggest stumbling block so far. With the manifold in place, the bolt closest to the head will not fit in.
We tried a number of ways, and it did not work. Your two choices are to install the bolt before you completely bolt the manifold to the head, or to buy an appropriate length stud:
So that the turbo ends up being bolted like so:
Stay tuned for more tech notes in Part II, and driving impressions in Part III.