If I didn't mention that your thread helped motivate me to get back on track I would be lying
Quote, originally posted by bigtoy302 » Hurry up already. I am dying of old age. I want to see this thing done.
My daughter doubled in age since I started this project, LOL
I am working on the axle lengths (remember I am switching to the + suspension).
There is a lot of ambiguity in this regard, so I took my own measurements and calculations. I may wait until I get my subframe, control arms, etc finished and bolt everything together to measure the distances from the Trans Flanges to the wheel hub inner flanges. Here is a thread I have added info to -> https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3610564, but I will post the specifics here.
Measurements from Bellhousing Face to CV Flange:
02a - (NOTE: 3mm CV flange Recess taken into account)
D/S --------------- P/S
206.55mm ------ 37.7mm
Total Diff Width -Flange to Flange = 244.25mm
D/S ---------- P/S
242.24mm ------ 57.8mm
Total Diff Width -Flange to Flange = 300.04mm
Total Diff Width Differences and thus net axle length difference = 55.79mm (2.2")
Based on each Flange Measurements:
02m D/S Axle = -20.1mm (-.79")
02m P/S Axle = -35.69mm (-1.41")
These measurements, I am pretty confident with. The tricky part is measuring the axle lengths in comparison, since the inner CV's can move in and out and throw off measurements as well as the fact that 02m inner CV are Tripods, so a direct comparison is a bit difficult to be precise.
Here is what I have for axle measurements (Flange to Bearing)
Stock Corrado Vr (+ suspension):
27 7/8" - 18 5/8"
Calculated Lengths using my above calcs based on Vr + axles:
27" and 17 1/4"
Nate's Reported Measurements:
26 13/16" and 16 1/2"
27 5/16" and 16 3/4"
Rycou (DSS axles) (just purchased and just measured):
26 7/8" and 17 5/8"
So, I am pretty confident that ~27" on the P/S Axle is correct.
But, you can see the discrepancies on the D/S axle. I can easily see that a measurement can be 1/4" off due to the inner CV position, but this is more.
FWIW my stock Beetle Turbo S short axle is 17 3/8" which is pretty darn close if not usable as is. P/S is 28 5/8", so it def needs to be shortened.
When I figured my axle lengths I had all the front suspension on and weight on the vehicle. I cut the shafts in half with the cv still on slid both halves of the shafts in and overlapped the cut ends ends. I cut off how ever much hung over and then welded them up. I ended up taking off 1.5" off the long side and .5 off the short side. This was NON + suspension.
Thanks, that is pretty close to my calcs above (1.41" and .79").
Regardless whether it is plus or non-plus, the amount the axles must be shortened will be the same. The final lengths (plus or non-plus) will obviously be different.
Yea, I will probably wait until the last minute to shorten them and measure the actual axle length need (Flange to bearing) with the car's weight on the suspension.
Lowering the car will definitely change things slightly and I know that being "EXACT" not that critical as there is room for forgiveness with the inner CV.
Nice Progress [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Thanks! Motor and Trans are one.
Started on the wiring too. I acquired a brand new AWP harness with my orig trade/swap and this harness is about 80% of what I need for megasquirt, so I don't have to build from scratch. I felt kind of dirt though cutting off the factory ECu plugs-
The factory convoluted tubing and connectors are not my favorite, but since I am using a lot of the harness in tact, I am fine with it.
Here is a sample of one of the plugs that needed to be changed. Since the pin sizes were different for the 2 coolant plugs, I could not just repin to the new housing.
Hey, I modified my shroud to accept my spal fan the same way. Except I didnt weld studs to the shroud, I made 4 spacers and I used nuts and bolts. I cnc'd my shroud and made a press fit for the fan.
Looking really good, cant wait to see it done.
Quote, originally posted by Forty-six and 2 » I need to learn how to do this badly. It's coming along nicely.
This was my first 02m and I can say that it is a hundred times easier to work on than the 020 and 02a!
Quote, originally posted by deth_core » ...that makes her 20 now?
it feels like it's been 10 years.. When you are driving your Corrado daily and everything is tip top, it's hard to rush and tear it apart
Seriously though, if you see all of the custom brkts, fab work etc for the motor alone (I have not really posted those details), you can see why it has been a long time coming. I spent last weekend just prepping and painting all of the brkts, mounts and misc parts.. Good progress the last week though [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
..she said she would help paint it I let her ride her motorcycle
Modified by sdezego at 11:42 PM 12-7-2009
Some pics showing a lot of the custom brackerty I made. Most of which will be completely hidden so I am not sure why I spent so much time prepping and painting (outside of the rear alt mount setup).
As Always, click for larger pics ->
Custom front support for custom Mk4 PS brkt to run all on serpentine belt
Custom Rear mount Mk4 Alt support
Custom brkt for using G60 Serp tensioner arm in my single belt setup
Front view of above
Side view of PS mount
Also, The crank bolt was never installed yet as I was trying to decide whether to use the 6pt or 12 pt 16v crank bolt. After researching and acquiring both, the 6pt is actually 10.9 grade and the 12 pt is 8.8.
Anyone who knows the 058 block/crank knows the bolt is always a problem and especially so on the G60, which is the reason for my over obsession. There is a bit more at stake here than on the non-interference 8v.
Anyway, after searching, I just found what I think may be an ARP solution from a completely different application. Even though my cog is pinned (earlier in this thread), extra insurance is never a bad thing. ...granted a $35 extra insurance
I will post up the details when the ARP hardware arrives in the next 7-10 days.
Quote, originally posted by sdezego » Also, The crank bolt was never installed yet as I was trying to decide whether to use the 6pt or 12 pt 16v crank bolt. After researching and acquiring both, the 6pt is actually 10.9 grade and the 12 pt is 8.8.
I hope you make the right decision on the crank bolt, since I will be using the same one that you decide on.
Nice fab work on the brackets. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] If you can see it or not, it still needs to be pretty.
Oh, and where is the excitement in this thread? I have been patiently waiting...sukka
Carbon fiber ME2.2lt Mkl TT coming soon...
haha, I knew you were going to post that
Crank Bolt Dilemma solved:
Full details in a post I made in the 16v Forum (https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4688843, but recap is below.
We all know the 058 block/crank bolt fails, so In my over-obsession I was searching on the best bolt to use for this motor, since there is a lot at stake.
You may know that VW used two different bolts over the years on 16v's (possibly 3 if you look in the Bentley, but I will ignore since I have no info on the 3rd other than torque specs). There was a 6pt bolt which was 46mm in length and used a 7mm thick washer, and the later 12 pt bolt which was 39mm and used no washer.
I bought them both from VW and here are some facts:
- Thread and pitch are 14mm x 1.5
- The 6pt is 10.9 grade @ 46mm
- The 12 pt is 8.8 grade @ 39mm
- 8vs are 10.9 FYI and shorter of course @ 33mm
- Diesels and 06a blocks use a larger diameter bolt (16mm and ARP now makes a solution).
Note: (46mm 6pt bolt - 7mm washer = 39mm 12pt)
Here are the tq specs:
Quote, originally posted by 206danebmx » ....
This is exactly what the bentley says:
6 sided bolt with washer---137 lb-ft
Hex head bolt with washer--111 lb-ft
12 sided bolt with collar (no washer)--66 lb-ft + 1/2 turn
So, I started searching high and low for a hardened Stud and aircraft style nut, but was hard at finding what I wanted. I started looking through ARP's catalog to cross reference something and much to my surprise, I found two ARP possibilities.
1.) Mitsu - 2L (4G63) - 14mx1.5 x 1.525" (38.7mm) - ARP#207-2501
2.) Ford Duratec (1.8 & 2L) - - 14mx1.5 x 1.735" (44.1mm) - ARP#251-2501
They both come with a hardened 1/4" (6.35mm) washer which we would not use in either case because it is too large in diam.
So, I ordered #2 becuase it is longer (much like the PL bolt and I figured I could use some std hardened washer to take up some of the length and still end up with more thread bite in the crank. Note: The 6pt 46mm factory bolt is just about 1-2mm too long w/o using the 7mm washer and just starts to bottom out in the ABA crank as it makes contact, but could vary from crank to crank.
So, you can see that #2 above looks like it is a pretty darn good match when using the washer (and poss #1 if w/o the washer if the shoulder is large enough).
I received the bolt and here are the deets.
Perfect length, perfect thread, but the head was unfortunately too big. Now, this could still be used as is, but you would have no way of getting the harmonic balancer on/off (not too good). So, I went up to the shop and threw it up on the lathe to trim the bolt head down a tad so that it fits through the Balancer hole.
Looks like it is now a winner. You can either use the thick stock 6 sided 16v washer with it, or get a thinner 14mm one from the hardware store which is what I did. This will actually give more threads to the crank which was no prob for my ABA crank.
Pics (click for larger image):
in comparison to the stock PL 6 sided bolts that uses the thick washer
Head a tad too big
Shaved a tad down on the lathe
Did someone say OCD?
Also, for reference:
ARP bolts are 200,000 PSI bolts which puts them at a 12.9 hardness and is impossible to find our size bolt in that spec. I wasn't even able to source a 10.9 bolt outside of the factory VW in a few hours of searching.
Also, if you are the engineering type and care to compare bolt strengths, here you go:
Modified by sdezego at 11:42 AM 1-7-2010