Just too damn busy in general. I spent the last 36hrs alone in Tax preparation hell ..............
I am also questioning my Trans heavily and am seriously thinking about an 02m with maybe a 3.94 of 4.11 'ish Ring and Pinion. I hate the G60 gearing. I just need to find someone that will either make some form of a trade trade for my Silver Corrado or buy it outright, etc.
I know all about work schedules from hell. I just finished up Norfolk's budget and over 100hrs in a 7 day period.
With the 2L bottom end your G60 gearing will feel completly different. trust me I had Vr6 gearing when I built the 2LG60. The extra stroke of the aba did not match up well with the longer Vr6 gearing. Hence why I sold you the 2L block.
Thanks Frank. Actually, I really respect your opinion and experience with the different gearing on the G60 and 2L stroke. We had even discussed it a couple of times as you may recall, and if it weren't for that, the decision would be final to do away with the ATA. Your experience with it on the 2L, is really making the decision hard.
I still have time before I need to make a final decision on the gearing, so I need to do some more figuring and research. I had an AYL and sold it, but don't really know how noticeable the small difference is between the ATA.
I really want to go 02m for a few reasons:
- The gearbox is built to withstand a lot of punishment from the get go.
- they generally have much less wear than any 02a. Even mine which was well taken car of.
- The gear changes seem so much more refined on the 02m than on the 02a. This is the big one. I figured I could play with the final drive if I had to make some adjustments. Adding a shift weight on the ATA may help quite a bit, but after knocking through the gears on an 02m, I was all smiles.
I already have a brand new Light Eurospec steel Flywheel, new Vr PP and clutch awaiting, so I might just bite the bullet and buy the peloquin for the 02a and call it a day. 1st gear just really disturbs me on the ATA as you are in and out of it so quickly. Maybe it will be better as you cay on the longer stroke.
We'll see and thanks!
A couple more pics I came across of some older progress. I am no longer using the AWP timing belt tensioner pictured below since I switched to non-Distributer (using the 9a IM shaft and stuff). Now, I can fit the 9a tensioner with one of my custom 157T Belts.
As Usual, Click for larger pics.
Before I post some more Porting progress, I just wanted to post this older picture of a finished intake port. Look closely at it compared to the untouched ports and you will see that there is some very poor bowl work and castings from the factory. Even still the AEB flows ~220-240cfm stock. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm.
Click for larger pic.
LOL. I am not sure how many hours I have in the this head or the port work alone, but when i am done, I won't be rushing to do another until I get some down time 20 ports...
I bet. I remember reading that a stock aeb head flows more then a stage 4 16V head from port tuning.com So I figure that there is no real need to port the 20V head since it has such great flow numbers. But I do like the work I've seen you put into your head. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Yea, I posted some flow number above in the barrage of images last night.
Stock, the AEB flows ~220-240cfm. Ported, it has been proven to flow ~ 270cfm+. Bob Quindazzi (mainly in the 1.8t forums) has some numbers from the heads he ported iirc and they are/were in the 270+ range.
It always helps and it is free hp. The differences that I have made by headwork alone on various engines over the years was my drive . I figured since I am not running a Big Turbo, I might as well make the best of it. I would like to put a set of cams in it, but I am not sure I want to spend that chunk..
I heard that Nate Romero ended up getting 240whp on his all motor 2020 . His ports are completely reworked and monstrous. There are some pics floating around the 1.8t forum iirc. That type of work definitely requires a flow bench and a LOT of trial and error. Obviously, he had very different goals in mind
Thanks! Me neither. I am starting to get the Big itch to finish it lately, but still won't compromise "just to get it done". Especially, since my current car is running so nicely. Still have a lot of work to do.
I just finished the porting yesterday and pics should be up in a few. Head should be going together this week.
I am using Stock valves since everything was in good shape.
My opinion is that I see no point in going oversize valves because of the head shrouding and closeness of the valves to begin with. I think the big gains here are the porting and bowl work and enlarging the ID of the seat slightly (i.e. under the 60* cut into the bowl). Also, there are significant benefits in Sodium filled Exhaust valves that I would rather not just throw away.
Not saying that there is no value in the very small OS valves available, just not worth it for my project goals and is reserved for the ballerz If, I needed all new valves, I would consider it.
I just cc'ed my Cylinder and Head (#1) because I want to see what my CR is. Since, I decked the block and had to shave the head slightly after welding, I want to make sure I am still where I want to be.
I will post those details this weekend and still want to polish the Combustion chambers. I also planning on claying the pistons to check and verify valve clearance. I am sure they are fine as JE made the pistons, but I want to check in case I decide at the las minute to drop a set of cams in here
Forgot to mention that I removed all of the stock oil galley Ball Bearing plugs. what a PITA.
I just got my 1/16" NPT (Pipe Tap) yesterday (hard to find locally) and am going to allen plug all of them. I decided to do this to clean all of the oil galleys and make sure there was no debris/residues caught in any of them.
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