VWVortex.com - DIY: Euro Cupholder
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 1 of 6 12345 ... LastLast
    Results 1 to 25 of 140

    Thread: DIY: Euro Cupholder

    1. Member the.ronin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2006
      Posts
      6,970
      11-23-2006 03:13 PM #1
      DIY: EURO CUPHOLDER
      by the.ronin
      This document is for informational purposes only. Any vehicle modifications should be done by a certified VW mechanic. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.
      Retrofit may take you up to 4 hours depending on how comfortable and familiar you are with the interior cabin components. Others have done it in 2 hours - I finished it in almost exactly 3 hours trying to be as careful as possible. A lot of components will be removed along the center console from the rear cooling unit to the ash tray to the side footwell fascias and ultimately the entire center console itself. Be organized and methodical but first and foremost be patient.
      This DIY will walk you through (or at least try to) the removal of (i) the rear cooling unit, (ii) the gear shift, (iii) the ashtray, (iv) the side footwell fascias, and ultimately (v) the center console itself - in that order. The DIY will not walk you through the second half of the installation which is simply the foregoing in the exact reverse order.
      Stock U.S. cupholder from a MY06 2.5L Jetta 6sp tiptronic package 1 ...


      Retrofitted European cupholder ...


      Parts Needed
      European cupholder p/n 1K0 862 531 A UBN
      Note: I swear I've seen photos of the cupholder closing from the safety brake towards the shifter but this particular p/n can be installed only one way. Most others seem to install this way as well.
      Tools Needed
      * Required tools. All others will just make your life a whole heck of a lot easier.
      * T20 torx bit
      * Wrench w/ adapter for T20
      * Trim tool
      Mechanics mirror or magnetized rod to deal with screws in tight places
      Plastic credit card or like tool
      Removal of Rear Cooling Unit
      1. Turn up the armrest cover and use the trim tool to remove the black rubber mat at the floor of the cooling unit.


      2. Use the trim tool to pry off the panel containing the internal air vent.


      3. Behind the panel, you will find your first torx screw of many many many many many torx screws. If you look real close, you can see engraved, "Abandon All Hope Ye Who Enter Here" ... silly Germans.

      Tip: The good news is, you will only be dealing with T20 screws. The bad news is, you'll have enough to melt down and suffice the metallurgy needs of the United States military complex three times over. I used a bunch of little envelopes and as I removed certain sections, I placed the screws (and tabs for the footwell fascias) inside and marked the envelope respectively. I stacked them in the order they were filled. When it came to reinstalling components, I went through the envelops top to bottom.
      Here's a shot of all my envelopes towards the half-way point for your entertainment pleasure.

      Yeah. Martha Stewart aint got nothin on me.
      4. Move onto the small rear storage compartment where you'll find two more torx screws (red circles).


      5. Remove that rear storage compartment using the trim tool.


      6. Remove the rear air-conditioning unit by pulling in the direction of the red arrows.

      7. With the rear air-conditioning removed, you'll find two more torx screws on the lower sides - one on each side.

      8. The rear coolant unit can now be removed - except you still need to detach the harness connecting to the power outlet. Lift up the coolant unit carefully just so you can get in there and detach the harness (see next step).


      9. Remove the power outlet harness by pushing in the locking lever as indicated by the red arrow. Once that is disconnected, pull on the parking brake as far up as it will go - it can be lifted surprisingly far! Proceed to fully remove the rear coolant unit and put it aside.


      Removal of Gear Shift Selector
      10. Use a credit card or similar tool to pry up the front end of the base of the gear shift selector. I found that starting near the middle and working to the right works out. I also found that the trim tool I have was not thin enough to get under there and my trusty pocket knife seemed too sharp for my comfort.


      11. Before removing the shifter itself, lift up the base to reveal the wiring harness. Disconnect this harness first in case you get overzealous and yank that sucker so far out off that you rip the harness right out. That would be bad juju. Remove the harness by pushing in where the red arrow indicates and slowly and carefully wiggling the harness out.

      Once removed, pull the shifter button out as far as possible - you might feel or hear an audible click but you will know that it is out (see next step for a good tip). Next simply pull the shifter itself straight out. Pull in the general parallel direction of the metal shaft underneath. For example, if you are in "N", pull straight up. It takes a little bit of force but it will come out and come out hard. No wiggling or shifting right and left - just pull straight out.
      Tip: Once you've pulled out the shift button, wrap a rubber band around it to keep it from pushing all the way back in. You cannot re-install that knob with the button depressed. If you do, you may damage your shift mechanism!!


      Removal of Ash Tray
      12. With the gear selector removed, you'll find two torx screws holding down the front of the ashtray. Get at it, son!! You're now almost one-third of the way through!! Woot!!!


      13. Carefully lift up the ash tray and find two wiring harnesses. Remove the white connector in the same fashion you removed the gear selector harness (step 11) and the power outlet harness in the same fashion you removed the power outlet harness from the rear cooling unit (step 9). Note that the wiring bundle for the white connector is attached to a guide (red arrow) which cannot be seen in the photo below. This is easily removed by pulling out to the right (not down).

      Removal of Footwell Fascias
      Ok the easy part is over. The frustration involved in the following steps is likely where most people will break connectors, lose torx screws into the abysmal holes scattered throughout the nooks and crannies, and generally go ballistic at the local Vons with semi automatic weapons. It's enough to piss off the Dalai Lama. Welcome to the suck.
      14. Remove the tab cover and torx screw underneath each side of the footwell fascias. Don't worry, this part is deceivingly easy. It will get progressively and exponentially get suckier - sorta like Dantes' inferno meets German engineering.

      Once these are removed you should be able to pull out and down on the fascias and remove them entirely ... this part is tough. It helps to move the seats as far as as they will go. The fascia only extends just past the front of the seats when they are in the furthest rear position. God speed, pilgrim.
      With the footwell fascias removed, we can proceed to remove the 10 screws securing the center console. There is 1 in the rear, 1 in the rear cupholder, 2 on each side in the footwells once hidden underneath the fascias, and 2 God forsaken ones deep in the far end on each of the "oh sh*t" bars.
      15. Let's go ahead and start with the straight-forward rear screw so we can build up a false sense of confidence.

      16. Use the trim tool to lift out the rear cupholder pad and remove the screw underneath that pad. 2 down, 8 to go. Ha! That's like getting to the basecamp of Everest and claiming you are 1/4 of the way to the summit.


      17. Proceed to remove the two screws on either side of the footwells that were previously hidden by the footwell fascias.


      Wow you're just on a roll now right? Not so much. Prepare to hate life ...
      18. Use the trim tool to remove the contoured sides of the oh ship bars. I found that starting from the bottom corners helped out. Once you have a side out, you can reach in there and pull with some force to remove it.

      19. With the contoured trim removed, you can, evidently, get at the two final screws on both of the oh ship bars. If it gets too tight in there, use the ratchet with an adapter. Be very careful when removing these screws as they are apt to fall into the opening seen below never to be seen again until the fourth horseman of the Apocalypse.

      Note that there are four screws on the sides where the ash tray used to be. I am pretty sure, in retrospect, these did not require removal in order to remove the center console. Be advised I am not 100% sure - if it turns out they require removal, then giddy up, Quimosabe!!
      20. You will now be able to remove the entire center console from the rear (below) all the way to and including the oh ship bars. What manner of witchcraft is this, say you? Arcana it is not, young padawan. Adjust the seats as necessary - they do not have to be removed. Slightly bend the rear end to the extent necessary to pull it out and around the emergency brake. Do not worry, it's plastic and likely more malleable than you give it credit for - just don't get all medieval on its ass.

      You can see one of the two screws that secures the cupholder above circled in red.
      21. With the center console removed, you can undo the two screws securing the cupholder one of which was circled in red above and the other circled in red below. Proceed to easily remove the cupholder by sliding in the direction of the arrow.


      Note: You can try and replace the cupholder without removing the center console by stretching the hole where the cupholder is and easing it out. I do not recommend it. It was very difficult to insert the euro cupholder. While I was able to remove and replace the rear screw, the front screw was nearly impossible.
      That's it!! You are now HALFWAY done. BUHAHAHA ... have fun, guy.
      ******* End of DIY *******
      Thanks to maloosheck (Vortex), Checkered Flag VW and many others.



      Modified by the.ronin at 1:00 PM 11-23-2006

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. 11-23-2006 03:29 PM #2
      Great DIY! Bravo. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Sticky-ed, this should be

    4. Member svander's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 31st, 2003
      Location
      Seattle Metro
      Posts
      12,252
      Vehicles
      '11 S4
      11-23-2006 03:44 PM #3
      Great DIY! Added to the FAQ. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    6. Member FUZE's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 13th, 2004
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      4,772
      11-23-2006 04:04 PM #4
      Rob comes through again with a great DIY! Thanks man [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      ICinna-Berry

    7. Member FlyingTurtle's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 26th, 2006
      Posts
      10,175
      Vehicles
      85 911 Carrera ROW, 14 F150 EB FX2
      11-23-2006 04:10 PM #5
      great write up, too much work tho....Good job

    8. Member edisonr's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 24th, 2003
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      2,097
      11-23-2006 04:13 PM #6
      You're in a roll Rob [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    9. Member the.ronin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2006
      Posts
      6,970
      11-23-2006 04:16 PM #7
      Thanks you guys ... I get so much help from members here this is nothing in comparison.
      Well, aside from the DSG shiftknob the solution of which is nowhere to be seen, this will be the last mod in a while. At least ones that require torx bits ... hopefully new wheels are close.
      Off to the fam's Thanksgiving dinner

    10. 11-23-2006 04:53 PM #8
      That was a fun DIY to read. Great write up!

    11. Member Froster's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 12th, 2006
      Location
      Mississauga, Ont
      Posts
      2,636
      Vehicles
      07 Rabbit
      11-23-2006 04:57 PM #9
      When you said '2 down, 8 to go' you did not literally mean 8, correct? If I counted right, its 4. The reason that I ask is that I'm wondering if you can just remove the screws with the centre console still installed, and then only loosen everything else up enough to actually get the thing out.
      I'm sort of just thinking aloud, and will try to see if I can get away with less dis-assembly when I get my cupholder. It really is amazing that there is that much work just to get you the console. Certainly much more than the mk4 (which I took apart many times)

    12. 11-23-2006 07:17 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by DaveMeacham »
      That was a fun DIY to read. Great write up!

      X100
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    13. Member SnowboarderX216's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 7th, 2004
      Location
      Lancaster, PA
      Posts
      4,040
      Vehicles
      '15.5 Volvo S60 T6, '15 GMC Terrain
      11-23-2006 08:50 PM #11
      wow i thought it would have been alot easier than that...
      to much work for me to go through for a cupholder... maybe down the road or if i get bored...
      nice write up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Had/Have 1999.5 Jetta | 2006 GTI | 1991 GTI | 2004 A4 | 2008 R32 | 2012 GTI | 2012 Escape | 2007 A3 | 2015.5 S60 | 2015 Terrain

      Quote Originally Posted by jrmcm View Post
      Because inflammatory arguments based on meaningless speculation is what we do around here.

    14. 11-23-2006 09:21 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by SnowboarderX216 »
      wow i thought it would have been alot easier than that...
      to much work for me to go through for a cupholder... maybe down the road or if i get bored...
      nice write up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      It's worth ever second.... I did it when it was 110 outside... I'm glad i have it.

    15. 11-23-2006 09:33 PM #13
      You did all that work just to replaced the cup holder? WOW

    16. Member Sincity's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 16th, 2005
      Posts
      4,511
      Vehicles
      '07 GTI APR Stg II RIP. '09 C63 AMG Kleemann Stg II. Trade '08 RDX for MKVII R or GTI.
      11-23-2006 09:40 PM #14
      Thanks for the writeup. Hey Davespeed....are you taking notes?

    17. 11-23-2006 10:16 PM #15
      Not to sound cynical... but what is better about the euro? Other than the fact that it looks good closed if your not using it...

    18. Member the.ronin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2006
      Posts
      6,970
      11-23-2006 10:34 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by Froster »
      When you said '2 down, 8 to go' you did not literally mean 8, correct? If I counted right, its 4. The reason that I ask is that I'm wondering if you can just remove the screws with the centre console still installed, and then only loosen everything else up enough to actually get the thing out.

      If you mean, keep the two screws deep inside each of the oh sh*t bars (4 total) and just removing the 2 one each side of the footwell (4 total), you would have to literally bend the console to the point of likely doing permanent damage. By all means, please do try it though and let us know if it works ... but also please be careful.
      Thanks for the props, guys. As to the question of whether it's worth it, that's up to each individual to answer. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    19. Member ycchan's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 31st, 2005
      Posts
      888
      11-23-2006 10:36 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by HACBassoon »
      Not to sound cynical... but what is better about the euro? Other than the fact that it looks good closed if your not using it...

      VW bottle opener

    20. 11-23-2006 10:59 PM #18
      holycrap and i sooo wanted that cupholder!!! oh well not with all that crap you have remove!!!!

    21. Banned Veedubboy75's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 12th, 2004
      Posts
      4,459
      11-23-2006 11:22 PM #19
      HITF could ever remove the BUILT IN RED BULL HOLDER?
      DAMN!

      i'd never do that even for that damn bottle opener.


    22. 11-24-2006 07:07 AM #20
      You know what I love about Ronin, he's just as ****ty as a photographer as I am
      You get the badge of honor for doing the mod, that's a bump
      Also honorable mention for the DIY [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      And finally a for going ahead with this mod knowing what it would entail.
      Oh geez.. hope you got drunk with the fam.

    23. Member Froster's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 12th, 2006
      Location
      Mississauga, Ont
      Posts
      2,636
      Vehicles
      07 Rabbit
      11-24-2006 08:39 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      If you mean, keep the two screws deep inside each of the oh sh*t bars (4 total) and just removing the 2 one each side of the footwell (4 total), you would have to literally bend the console to the point of likely doing permanent damage. By all means, please do try it though and let us know if it works ... but also please be careful.
      Thanks for the props, guys. As to the question of whether it's worth it, that's up to each individual to answer. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      OK. The aim of the question was to find as many places as possible to avoid using the trim removal tool. I might try this weekend just to see. Certainly, I would consider your solution as being the 'right' way. I just dont want to pull that much apart, and if I cant seem to find another solution, then I may cancel my order.
      (One additional thing to note: the reason I think I might be able to find a little easier way is because I have a 2-door rabbit, which means of course that I have no arm rest or rear seat ducts going through the centre console)

    24. Member Gr8mafy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 15th, 2003
      Posts
      4,604
      11-24-2006 09:45 AM #22
      wow that is def a very nice DIY.. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      thats a lot of patience as well

    25. Member jmj's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 6th, 2001
      Location
      MA
      Posts
      3,888
      Vehicles
      06 GTI
      11-24-2006 11:13 AM #23
      Another excellent write up.
      The euro cup holders look pretty slick, and the VW opener is a cool novelty, but the seatbelts work just as well as openers (IMHO) and I've already spent time cussing at the lower trim pieces that go along the sides of the center console along the footwells as I tried to get them back into place.
      Quote Originally Posted by Taipei_E92 View Post
      If you generalize...you are always going to get it wrong.

    26. Member the.ronin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2006
      Posts
      6,970
      11-24-2006 11:28 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by BumbleBeeJBG »
      You know what I love about Ronin, he's just as ****ty as a photographer as I am

      Dude, Ansel Adams aint got shiz on me bro.

      Quote, originally posted by Froster »
      OK. The aim of the question was to find as many places as possible to avoid using the trim removal tool .

      ... and I fully encourage you to find other methods. I would never presume that what I posted is the end all and be all. I was cognizant of trying alternative approaches but in fairness, by the two hour mark, I just wanted to get the thing done. Please do write up a DIY or post alternatives as you find them. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    27. Banned jxmoth's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 4th, 2006
      Posts
      7,439
      11-24-2006 01:34 PM #25
      All that for some euro flavor

      My heart is broken.

    Page 1 of 6 12345 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •  
    vwvortex.com is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on vwvortex.com is generated by its users. vwvortex.com is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG.