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    Thread: How to solve (or prevent) Eos Roof leaks

    1. Member just-jean's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 14th, 2006
      Dumont, NJ
      71 SuperBeetle, 89 Jetta GLI, 97 Jetta GLX-SOLD, white canvas KEDS/8 eyelett/blue badging
      06-08-2016 07:26 PM #326
      07 EOS island grey/black/2.0T-- 6MT----no DSG for MY happy feet

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    3. n00b JIMTI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 6th, 2016
      Canterbury, UK
      VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2.0 TDI SPORT 2008, Volkswagen Golf 1.9 TDI SE 5dr 2007
      09-06-2016 06:15 PM #327
      What a very helpful thread, I have just got my new (to me) EOS, a 2008 model, and although it appears to keep dry it had some deforming of the seal by the sun roof and all of the seals are hard, so I went to the local TPS and have got the "special lubricant" arriving tomorrow, so will give all the seals a good clean and treat them ready for the start of the wetter weather.
      I can see this forum is going to be a great source of knowledge in the coming years as I intend keeping the car until it is recycled.

    4. Member BlueGLI1.8T's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 23rd, 2004
      Tampa, FL
      09 VW EOS, 03 Audi RS6, 01 Audi S4, 08 Porsche Carrera S, 91 BMW E30
      05-20-2018 11:20 AM #328
      Excellent write up. I just picked of a 2009 EOS for my wife as a project car and yesterday during hard rain I received a small drip at the very top of the driver's side A-Pillar where it connects to the center trim. I immediately thought there my be a clogged drain as I went through this in the 5 MKIV VWs I owned in years past. I will investigate this now knowing what you have written here. Thanks again!

      Quote Originally Posted by kratedisease View Post
      I just wanted to add some important information regarding unresolved ongoing roof leaks on roofs that ARE PROPERLY lubed w Krytox.

      I am aware (and personally reviewed the posts/pictures/video) that have been posted that if the roof seals/weather strips are not lubed properly, the roof can allow water leaks to occur by allowing water to flow past deformed/dry seals/weatherstripping down into the cabin.

      Here is a link to a YouTube video describing the lubricating process

      I have done quite a lot of research in this area and find some of this information to be helpful in reducing leaks, but only to a certain extent.

      In fact, After lubricating my roof I still had dripping of water into my EOS.
      I really looked at the entire issue and really observed the following which finally resolved my leaking issue, and showed me that lubricating the roof rubber seals is only a SMALL PORTION of what needs to be looked at/inspected to resolve leaks.

      Let me just say first off that even if you never lubed your roof rubber seals and even if you had a huge gap between the seals, you still should NOT get water leaking into the cabin. It is my opinion that lube on the seals really Is only the first line of defense in preventing leaks or water from entering.
      I can say this with absolute confidence, and I will explain why since I now understand the engineering behind the roof drainage.

      What is NOT explained anywhere on the Internet is that fact that SOME water gets beyond the rubber roof seals regardless, especially around the glass sunroof seals, despite of how tight the seals are and regardless of how well lubricated they are. Pure physics dictates that if there is enough rain or water on the roof some of the water will get past the seals no matter what. The rubber seals/weather stripping rubbers are water resistant and NOT water proof.

      (The EOS hardtop roof is NOT made by VW. It is manufactured by OASys which is a division of Webasto corporation in Germany and sold as complete modules to VW to be installed on the EOS. )

      But what OASys devised is an ingenious system of catching any water that enters past the roof seals using several plastic/rubber catch "gutters" that are located under the seals that then drain the water that does get past the abutted seals into a drainage system inside the A pillar (that also the windshield) that catches,drains and dumps that water behind the front wheels, with additional drains on each side in the rear of the roof module that drain any water that got past the seals out the rear of the EOS thru a flexible tube system that drains the water out and dumps it thru the rear trunk area and dumps it under the car.

      And if these drains get clogged up with crud from decomposed tree leaf gunk or gritty road dust/crud that normally accumulates with time and deposits and collects inside these "gutters", YOU WILL HAVE WATER LEAKS IN YOUR ROOF regardless if you lube the top or not !!

      What must be done at the same time the roof seals get lubed is that the drain tubes must be blown out and cleared.

      Let me add that after I blew out/cleared out my 6 drain tubes, I tested the roof drainage and even dumped one liter of tap water directly into the drainage "gutters" inside the roof rails on the sides of the sunroof using a funnel (with the sunroof retracted), and the "gutters" took in and drained/removed all of that dumped water (one liter) completely within 10-15 seconds totally with no drip into the cabin !!! The drainage system is designed to drain massive amounts of water that can get past any dry or deformed seals super fast.

      It is important to note that if your seals are properly lubed and are not pinched, no matter how hard it rains, there is no way that such a large volume of water (one liter of water) is going to get past the seals that fast anyway. So that means that if you are lubricating your top, and are still getting drip or leakage into your cabin then most likely your drains are clogged with crud and the water accumulating in the roof "gutters" and is overflowing because the drain hoses ("leaders" in home roof terminology) are clogged and are not allowing the water to flow down the front and rear drain pipes fast enough.

      I find a total of 6 drain tubes that must be blown out or cleared.

      The 4 front drains are inside the front windshield A pillar on the outer ends of the top weatherstripping of the windshield. There are two drains in the front windshield ON EACH SIDE for a total of 4 drains on the front A pillars. You need to blow those out. You can put a funnel inside the opening and blow even using your lungs (breath), or using compressed air.

      In the rear there is one drain tube on each side. You can access it with the top partially retracted where the rear glass is lifted up onto the rest of the roof but the roof still on top of the car. Same position as shown when you need to access to lube the rear seals.
      You will see a corrugated black flexible tube that is attached to the rear weatherstripping where there is a weatherstripping Chanel. Those also have to be blown out.

      If any of these drain tubes get clogged ( and they eventually do get clogged up with stuff like decomposed tree leaves, road dust, even krytox that has dripped inside and attracted dirt and smudge, you will have leaks because the water caught by the "gutters" located under the roof seals are overflowing.

      Hope this helps those with unresolved water leaks

      Sent from my iPad
      09 VW EOS White on Black manual, 01 Audi S4 Nogaro Blue w/Black interior, APR, Stasis, BBS, etc./ 03 Audi RS6 Daytona Gray Pearl w/Platinum interior, 10SecS4 Tune, MTM TCU / 05 Mercedes CLK55 AMG Black on Black, Kleemann, Renntech, BBS, Bistein, etc. / 08 Porsche Carrera S Carrera White, Factory Aero Kit / 16 Audi Allroad Glacier White Black Sport Interior w/Aluminum trim / 91 BMW 318IC (E30)

    5. Member MMMH2O's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 23rd, 2004
      2008 Eos
      07-11-2018 02:15 PM #329
      My 2008 Eos was leaking from the plastic cover on the "A" pillar down on my thigh whenever it would rain, or when in a car wash. I looked up the issue via Google and found that it was due to the connection of the down tube to the fitting on the pillar. I tried blowing it out with compressed air just in case it was full of debris, and heard air whistling out the bottom.
      I then thought it was time to address the connection of the tube. To get to it, you must remove the sunvisor base bolt and pull the three pieces of plastic trim away from the windshield. You will see how the tube connects to the drain fitting under there. It appears the down tube becomes oval shaped in the round fitting, allowing water to flow round the outside of the tube. I popped the tube away from the fitting. Then using a Q tip, I applied bathroom caulk around the inside edges of the tube/fitting connection. I also ran some around the outside of the fitting / tube. I reassembled and then did the other side.
      A heavy rain the next day and several days later....no leaks!

    6. 08-18-2018 03:41 PM #330
      Hi all,
      I know this is an old thread but hoping someone her can help.
      I too have a leak on the (UK) passenger side A pillar. I've done what most suggest; lubricated the seals and checked the hose/nipple connection inside the A pillar. Still getting leaks

      The top seal above the leaking A pillar doesn't sit as flush as the driver side one-could this be an issue?
      Getting more than a little frustrated and the Missus is fed up of getting wet knees

    7. 10-04-2019 07:37 PM #331
      I mentioned this sometime earlier in the thread, but it bears repeating.

      I had a "roof" leak on the driver's side front carpet which defied diagnosis. My dealer had gone through and checked or replaced all the roof seals, but I was still getting water under the front carpet after a heavy rain. After much effort, they finally found that the rubber boot in the door hinge that routed wires from body to the door had come detached from the body, and water was running down the gap between the body and door and entering that hole. After replacing that boot the water problem went away. I later checked the passenger side and noticed the same problem, but was able to fix it myself with some sealant.

    8. n00b
      Join Date
      Feb 22nd, 2020
      Western NC
      2012 EOS Executive
      03-24-2020 02:16 PM #332
      On 03/26/20, after reading all these posts, I purchased "GENUINE Krytox GPL-105 OIL LUBRICANT "in a 1/2oz needle nose bottle on eBay for $24.45 including tax and shipping.
      Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Kry...wAAOSwRLZUFONU.
      There are lots of other vendors selling it as well as bottles with Dupont labels in various size bottles, needle nose bottles, and dabber bottles. It says it is genuine Dupont in the description, but the bottle label only has "Genuine" in red in the Dupont logo style, but I am going to take a chance. I appreciate everyone who posted on how to solve this problem.

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