Well I figure it's about time someone make a DIY for this type of stuff. Only reason I decided to do it was because it was my buddy's turn to get the treatment and I told him to bust out the cam and take some mad pics. This guide will be divided into phases. Phase 1 is removing the N249 and SAI. Phase 2 will be the PCV and 3 the EVAP or vice versa, whatever I do first
*edit* Thanks to j0hnnybmx for the sweet shots and lettin me use his car as a gerbil
Let's start by making some room. Get your intake/airbox out of the way and MAF. The more room you have to work with the easier this will be. Also if your engine covers are on remove them. Here's a pic of the engine bay before we started:
Get a ratchet and a 10mm socket and remove the two nuts on top of the N249 bracket as shown below:
Next, use either an allen drive or wrench in 5.5mm and unbolt the bracket from the manifold:
Unclip the longer half of the pump to combi valve crinkle hose. You push on the rough tabs and the sides will pop off.
Now you can swing that hose over to the passenger side out of the way since you unclipped it and unbolted it from the N249 bracket. Now, get your snips out and start cutting off the vac hoses going to the N249 on the driver side:
You'll cut 3 and then the 4th goes to the manifold. Now, if you can, unclip both harnesses under the bracket. Both should be visible:
Turn the bracket over and there is another 10mm nut holding the other crinkle hose on. Once you have this off, the bracket should be free.
**If you plan to run your engine cover still...just remove all the pieces on the underside of the bracket. When you're done with the removal process, you can bolt the bracket back onto the mani and still have the mounting holes for your cover.**
Next, unbolt the vac reservoir from it's bracket and also unbolt the bracket. 10mm nut and 5.5mm allen screws.
Now pull...also remove your DV vac line:
This next step is optional and depends on what you wanna do. You can leave the combi valve and vac line hardlines on the car and just plug the hose with something. Here is a pic of where the vac lines go to:
But, if you wanna remove it all, you'll need some coolant. In order to get the combi valve off, you need to unbolt a hard coolant hose from the block and pull it away and down.
There are 2 nuts holding on that coolant line. You WILL lose coolant which is why you'll want to have some when you're done to refill the system.
Now, there is a vac line that runs into those hardlines and also goes down to the bottom of your turbo inlet hose/pipe. Cut that line off.
The combi valve bolts to the hardlines via a bracket with a 10mm bolt. Also, the biggest bitch are two plastic clips that hold the coilpack harnesses onto it. Get em out whatever way necessary. After all this and getting the bolts out of the block, you'll have this:
Now pull those hardlines out.
Best bet now is to get a SAI Blockoff Plate from Integrated Engineering. Bolt it on, and then bolt the coolant hard hose back to the block making sure it's tight and flush.
Now for one of the harder parts. Best bet will be to have an 8mm allen drive and a universal joint on a 3/8" ratchet. Use a 10mm socket and unbolt the pump from the bracket from under the car. If you're lucky, you'll be able to pull the pump out of the bracket as is. But if not, you have to unbolt the bracket from the block using the 8mm allen drives. Here's what the bracket looks like and the placement of the bolts.
Once you have this off, if you got a resistor (10W 330ohm), just slice the covering off both these wires for the pump harness and connect the resistor to the wires whichever way you see fit. The resistor is not directional either. This will keep you from having a "pump missing" CEL, however you will still probably get the improper flow one.
And here is what the engine bay looks like after.
Now all that's left to do is route 2 new vac lines. That one you cut that goes to the bottom of your TIP, take it off and run a new line all the way up to right by the intake manifold. You woulda cut the line going across the intake mani to pull those hardlines off. It will connect to a silver hardline that runs across the intake manifold. Run another line from the DV to that open port on the bottom of the intake manifold. Remember the 4th line you cut from the N249? Connect it to that port. Then, you're done. You can bolt that bracket back up to run the engine cover if you so please.
Sorry I do not have AS MANY pics of this removal as Johnny pulled it all himself but I'll be as detailed as I can. It's very very easy to remove compared to taking off the SAI and N249 stuff.
First...look at your throttle body. It has a vac line on top. Pull that off. You can either put a rubber cap over it or you can use it as a vac/boost source (say for a DV) if you ever need one. Follow the lines down and you'll notice you have a hose connected to one of two hardlines that run across the intake manifold. I talked about this at the end of the SAI/N249 removal. On the driver side, you connected a vac line from the bottom of your turbo inlet hose to this hardline. Now you see, it runs across and connects to the EVAP system. What you can now do is just remove that line from your TIP and put a cap over the port down by the turbo. The remaining hardline on the manifold can't come off. Why? It's welded to another hardline for coolant...so you can either edit that however you want or be creative with anything else you have that uses vac and connect hoses to it.
So you pulled the vac lines off the throttle body and the hardline across the intake manifold. Now follow em over behind the power steering reservoir and unplug the harness. Slip the rubber piece off the bracket that is bolted to the fender. The lines go around the back of the coolant reservoir and drop down into a plastic canister. You can just unplug them. They use a special quick disconnect. Push a lil button and they pop off. Don't undo the fuel lines tho.
Now the only thing left that's holding all that stuff on is the blue balls under the passenger fender. Raise the car, remove fender liner...and there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold the blue balls up there. Get em off and the line comes off with it. You should be left with this:
Now all that is left are those white lines that are sticking out the top of the container in the back of the engine bay. Get under the passenger side of the car and start unclipping them from the underbody. The white ones ONLY. The black/blue are fuel. Go all the way back to near the fuel filter by the rear wheel. Just disconnect the fittings, and then pull the white lines from the front of the car down and out. You may have to pop the black cover off the top of the canister to properly get those lines out. It's kinda hard to pop off without breaking it but...w/e. And that's it. EVAP is gone. Put a 330ohm resistor on the harness and you shouldn't throw a code. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
The stock PCV system is used to remove pressure from the motor when you're driving it hard. It does this with a variety of vac sources all around the engine bay. If you edit all this out, and make one strong vac connection, that's all you need. All those other ones are safegaurds incase of failure, IMHO. The PCV system also allows oil and condensation into your charge pipes. So the main point of this edit is adding a catch can to trap this oil and condensation, while still allowing for pressure release.
Best possible way to get all this done is to remove the intake manifold. EVERYTHING is under there for the most part, so just have at it. Here's a pic of all the pieces (some may be missing) that I pulled out:
The brake booster line that comes over by the driver side and attaches to the big port on the mani can be edited since you no longer need that Y rubber hose on it. Just get some fuel line hose to slip over it and reattach to the mani.
Now, everything is out of the way, so start using OEM + Home Depot. I used the plastic elbow out of the filter housing, than a brass reducer, to some hose, then a plastic T from the HELP! section at an auto parts store.
For the valve cover, I happened to have a piece of preformed coolant hose that was bent and had a long straight section. I put a brass reducer in there, and tied it into the T you see above.
The outlet of the T runs around under some stuff to keep it looking clean, and up into the catch can. The outlet of the catch can then gets run to the inlet pipe (or hose if you've got one) for the constant vac source.
As you can see, I caught alot of moisture/condensation, and a small amount of oil within a few weeks of driving. Below is a simple MS Paint sketch of the setup. This is to just give you the general idea of how to run your lines. In no way am I saying to use the EXACT pieces I did, b/c you may find something that works better or looks nicer.
Now that you're done, you have two extra vac/boost ports on your intake mani. You can either utilize these for anything you may have, or just cap them off.
Some other notes for you guys looking to do this. You can put resistors in both n249 harnesses you unplugged to keep the CEL from popping up. Also, there are a few benefits to removing all this stuff. First off, it makes room in the engine bay so when you're working on more important things, you have less hoses and sensors and such in the way. Another nice thing is you learn more about what goes where and how this and that works. Total system weight of the SAI is about 7lbs. If you live somewhere that doesn't have echeck, there is no need for the SAI. All it does is heat up the cat during cold start. The N249 uses a vac boosting solenoid or w/e to help activate some of your parts that use vac such as your DV. Well if the solenoid fails, you're gonna have vac issues. By connecting a vac line directly to the manifold from the DV, you'll have true vac and quicker response.
Editing the PCV just makes some more room and simplifies what the system actually does. The EVAP is also for emissions, and removing it gives ya another vac source on your manifold.
Now that this DIY is complete, I'll show you a pic of Jen's engine bay.
To some this may look like an even bigger cluster, but I know where every line goes and why it's there. I have my boost gauge, boost controller, water/meth, DV, and FPR all ported to the intake manifold. There are no spare sources laying around. I'm catching all the condensation/oil in a can instead of putting it through the turbo and IC pipes. The small price to pay is 2 CELs for an EVAP improper flow and SAI improper flow.
Modified by SAVwKO at 8:10 PM 4-24-2007