Before I start: huge thanks to SVTWEB, Theresias, syntrix, Tim Birney, NJRoadfan, BRM10984 and anybody helping me out.
Standard disclaimer: This document is for informational purposes only. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.
Little background: AFAIK there are 3 types of clusters in mk5:
1. No-MFA - e.g. my '06 TDI pkg. 0
2. MFA (not available in US) - half size, some trip stats + MPG etc, no graphics
3. MFA Plus (this is US hi-line cluster) - full size, compass, stats, graphics from nav etc.
The following steps are going to be covered unless indicated otherwise:
2. Multifunction Steering Wheel (MFSW) retrofit - covered in excellent DIY by the.ronin
3. Replacing the cluster
4. Wiring the Position Sensing/Compass Module (PSCM) - this step is OPTIONAL - you do not need the compass module to make the cluster work
5. Central Convenience/Comfort Control Module (CCCM) Swap / Central Electronics Control Module Swap - again, this is OPTIONAL, for details refer below.
6. Horn/Siren wiring changes
7. Completion: Adapting immo, Matching keys, Matching the remote opening, Coding radio
1. Tiny flat screwdriver
2. Torx T20, T25, T27, T30 (do not remember exactly)
3. Trim tool
4. 10mm wrench
5. 10mm triple square wrench
6. VAG-COM + Hex-CAN cable
7. VAG CAN Commander (VCC)
8. Soldering station (or any other permanent wiring method tool).
9. Everything else for the MFSW retrofit
1. The cluster itself. The new ones are crazy expensive. The junk yard is probably the best place to start looking for one. There is a slight problem with the whole hi-line cluster swap: you need to read the immo PIN from your existing cluster and from the new cluster. The only way I know to do it is to use the VCC. I noted that not all of the clusters allow to read their immo PINs. Maybe it is a matter of a different encrypting algorithm not yet implemented in current version of VCC: VAG K+CAN Commander 1.4. Anyway, if you cannot read your own cluster's PIN, I would not even start this mod.
The following clusters work:
1K0 920 952 D (USA '06 TDI, non-MFA)
1K0 920 952 C (USA '06 2.5, non-MFA)
1K0 920 953 D (USA '06 TDI, non-MFA)
1K0 920 971 D (USA '05.5 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFA wiper stalk
1K0 920 972 L (USA '06 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
1K0 920 872 M (CAN/MX '06 TDI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
1K6 920 972 E ( USA '06 GTI, MFA+) - controlled with the MFSW
The following clusters did not work so far:
1K0 920 973 D ('06 TDI, MFA+)
1K0 920 953 P ('07 Jetta, non-MFA)
1K0 920 954 Q ('08 Jetta, non-MFA)
1K0 920 954 F ('08 Rabbit, non-MFA)
2. According to ETKA MFA+ uses different (high line) CCCM module. The high line version allows to make changes in the CCCM from the MFA+ menu (see details below). Be aware that there are different versions depending on the no. of doors:
1K0 959 433 AT
1K0 959 433 CC
1K0 959 433 AS
Same situation with CECM - you need one to be able to make changes in the CECM from MFA+. For details regarding swap/part no. refer to the.ronin's CECM swap DIY.
3. The compass is optional: the cluster works perfectly without it. The wiring is slightly painful, so it is up to you.
Jetta/GLI: 1K5 919 965 A
Rabbit/GTI: 1K6 919 879 (I have no idea where it is located in Rabbit, so you are on your own)
4. Compass requires harness according to the diagram below:
You can make your own harness using the following parts (Jetta, for Rabbit the plug should be the same):
3D0 972 708 - 8pin flat contact housing
000 979 009 - repair wire (3x as 6 contacts are used, see diagram above)
000 979 021 - repair wire to connect +12V from the fuse box
000 979 137 - repair wire to connect the ground (this one is not verified, as I used some non-oem cable shoe)
Please note that the CAN specs require CAN wire to be twisted pair. If you cannot get one from your local supplier, here is an oem part no.:
000 979 987 - CAN-BUS cable in bag (10m)
You might also need something to wrap the whole harness with:
000 979 950 - webbing adhesive tape
AFAIR my power wires (+12V and ground) were 3.5m long while the CAN wires were 4.2m long. But measure it on your own to make sure it is long enough.
Last comment before we start: please disregard the fact that there are several different parts disassembled on the pictures. I was doing few other mods in the same time.
Modified by maloosheck at 2:53 PM 11-3-2008