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    Thread: Piersburg 1B3 carb on 1.5L watercooled mk1 golf

    1. 02-03-2008 12:54 PM #1
      figured out the backfiring... nevermind
      PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE READ THE LAST POSTS

      the stock pierburg 1b3 carb..
      it's an 83 golf imported from germany.
      is it the same as this?
      http://www.geocities.com/vwbil...ments
      http://www.geocities.com/aussi...#carb
      or different?
      anyone have any experiences?
      what happens now is the car runs/drives fine..
      but at idle it will idle at about 2k.. then if you tap the gas it will go down..
      keep on tapping you can even kill out the engine.
      or sometimes if sitting at idle it will just die.
      i'm thinking it's a choke issue?
      the car is very hard to start also which makes me think choke.
      when i first start it up the oil light came on when i revv'd over 2.5k
      does that mean i need a new oilpump?
      Modified by broken dipstick at 7:57 AM 2-17-2008


      Modified by broken dipstick at 1:46 PM 2-24-2008

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    3. 02-03-2008 07:28 PM #2
      Step #1 - Look CLOSELY at all sides of the carb. On one of the sides the model of the carb will be stamped on it. Post the model number of your carb in this thread.
      Step#2 - With the engine COLD, take digital photos of ALL sides of the carb and the Top with the air intake elbow removed. Post links to those photos in this thread.
      After you do that, I may be able to help you.
      Charlie

      '80 VW Rabbit "C" - 81 VW Pickup - '85 VW Golf - 1987 GTI 16V - 2002 New Beetle - 2012 Toyota Tundra 4x4, 5.7L V8
      Visit the Unofficial GTI 16V Home Page at www.gti16v.org

    4. 02-03-2008 08:34 PM #3
      i believe it was running in this pic not sure.
      i can snap more pics tomorrow if needed
      pierburg 1b?


      ^^ what is this thing on the right with what looks like two hose connections that are bare?

      i seafoamed it, replaced the vac lines, adjusted the idle back down to around 1100 or 1000
      it still will occaisionally die at idle but not as much.
      i guess the fuel tank vent is clogged so it vents through a hole in the gascap.
      before when it was clogged it sucked in the gastank a little because of the vacuum so i wonder if this has something to do with the dying problem at idle rather than the carb.??
      maybe it just needs a new gastank and fuel pump/filter?
      anyways we'll see if anyone can help me out here.




      Modified by broken dipstick at 5:36 PM 2-3-2008

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    6. 02-03-2008 10:36 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      i believe it was running in this pic not sure.
      i can snap more pics tomorrow if needed

      Thanks for the photos... The carb on my 1980 Rabbit is a Solex PICT-5.
      Obviously my carb and yours are physically different but they still work
      in a similar fashion.
      One reason I asked for a photo of the carb when the engine was cold was because I wanted to see the position of the butterfly on the carb. When cold, the butterfly should be almost entirely closed closed.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      what is this thing on the right with what looks like two hose connections that are bare?

      That is the carb's automatic choke.
      On my carb those connections have coolant hoses attached to them.
      When the coolant heats up, the automatic choke changes the position of the butterfly on the carb (ie the butterfly opens). I find it somewhat puzzling that your carb does not have any hoses attached to these connections. Are their any other hose connections on the engine that appear to be clamped off or plugged shut?
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      i seafoamed it, replaced the vac lines, adjusted the idle back down to around 1100 or 1000

      When you adjusted the idle, how did you do it?
      For my carb I cannot simply crank the idle screw down to adjust the idle.
      I have to plug various vacuum hoses, disconnect the digital idle stabilizer and do a few other things. Your engine might not have these items so adjusting your idle may be different.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      it still will occasionally die at idle but not as much.
      i guess the fuel tank vent is clogged so it vents through a hole in the gascap. before when it was clogged it sucked in the gastank a little because of the vacuum so i wonder if this has something to do with the dying problem at idle rather than the carb.??

      Does the distributor in your VW have a vacuum unit on it?
      Are there vacuum lines running from the carb to this unit?
      On my carb this vacuum unit advances the timing of the distributor.
      If your vacuum unit is not working properly your engine can stall at idle.
      Here in the USA the fuel tank on a carb Rabbit should be a closed system.
      When you open up the gas cap after the engine has been running it is not uncommon to hear a "whoosh" sound. Your VW may/may not have the same setup as a USA spec Rabbit due to emissions differences between the USA and Germany.
      Some of the problems you described in your posts are some of the same issues I had with my carb. In my case I had multiple problems. First, my carb's butterfly did not have the proper gap when closed (ie cold engine).
      That created HARD START problems for me. Second, the vacuum advance on my distributor was shot (would not hold vacuum) so once the engine was hot it would not idle properly and would stop running. Third, I had to check/adjust the Choke Vacuum Pull Down unit. Lastly, I had to adjust the idle mixture screw (CO content) and the Idle Speed Adjustment screw once all my other carb issues were fixed.
      Before doing all of the above I had to do a number of tests on various other items like: Checking the Automatic Choke & Thermo Switches, Checking the Throttle Kicker, Checking the Idle Shutoff Valve, Checking Cold-Start Enrichment Valve, Checking Part Throttle Heater, Checking Main Jet Cutoff, Checking Vacuum Control Unit. FYI, all of these tests may be specific to your carb. For my carb all these tests are in the Rabbit Service Manual for 1980 Gasoline Models published by Robert Bentley. Since your carb is different the tests in this manual may not be the same.
      Other useful information:
      If the fuel filter(s) on your VW have not been changed in a while do yourself a favor and change them BEFORE you do anything else. If your fuel filter is letting dirt into your carb you could be having issued relating to that.
      When was the last time you checked the condition of the carb mount????
      When this mount deteriorates the carb can move and let cold air in stalling the engine. If the carb mount is not tight the same thing can happen.
      Last time I checked the following company sold carb rebuild kits for most carbs. If you think your carb needs a rebuild they might have a rebuild kit for your carb. http://www.carbkits.com/
      Charlie

      '80 VW Rabbit "C" - 81 VW Pickup - '85 VW Golf - 1987 GTI 16V - 2002 New Beetle - 2012 Toyota Tundra 4x4, 5.7L V8
      Visit the Unofficial GTI 16V Home Page at www.gti16v.org

    7. 02-04-2008 12:15 AM #5
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      Thanks for the photos... The carb on my 1980 Rabbit is a Solex PICT-5.
      Obviously my carb and yours are physically different but they still work
      in a similar fashion.
      One reason I asked for a photo of the carb when the engine was cold was because I wanted to see the position of the butterfly on the carb. When cold, the butterfly should be almost entirely closed closed.

      i'll check this tomorrow
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      That is the carb's automatic choke.
      On my carb those connections have coolant hoses attached to them.
      When the coolant heats up, the automatic choke changes the position of the butterfly on the carb (ie the butterfly opens). I find it somewhat puzzling that your carb does not have any hoses attached to these connections. Are their any other hose connections on the engine that appear to be clamped off or plugged shut?

      not that i noticed.. where are the lines supposed to come from?
      maybe this could be a problem with the cold start as well..
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      When you adjusted the idle, how did you do it?
      For my carb I cannot simply crank the idle screw down to adjust the idle.
      I have to plug various vacuum hoses, disconnect the digital idle stabilizer and do a few other things. Your engine might not have these items so adjusting your idle may be different.

      i am not sure what exactly i did but i turned (tightened) the screw on the bottom left here by the throttle cable and it dropped the idle from around 2k to 1k (after a few turns).
      i think they had the idle higher in hopes it would stall less at idle to no avail


      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      Does the distributor in your VW have a vacuum unit on it?
      Are there vacuum lines running from the carb to this unit?
      On my carb this vacuum unit advances the timing of the distributor.
      If your vacuum unit is not working properly your engine can stall at idle.
      Here in the USA the fuel tank on a carb Rabbit should be a closed system.
      When you open up the gas cap after the engine has been running it is not uncommon to hear a "whoosh" sound. Your VW may/may not have the same setup as a USA spec Rabbit due to emissions differences between the USA and Germany.

      the distributor does have a vacuum hose on it. i don't believe i've replaced that line yet.
      all i know about the venting is what the PO told me.
      and there is a tiny hole drilled in the gascap to vent the tank.
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      Some of the problems you described in your posts are some of the same issues I had with my carb. In my case I had multiple problems. First, my carb's butterfly did not have the proper gap when closed (ie cold engine).
      That created HARD START problems for me. Second, the vacuum advance on my distributor was shot (would not hold vacuum) so once the engine was hot it would not idle properly and would stop running. Third, I had to check/adjust the Choke Vacuum Pull Down unit. Lastly, I had to adjust the idle mixture screw (CO content) and the Idle Speed Adjustment screw once all my other carb issues were fixed.

      the hard start in my case is also because of 15w40 oil that the PO put in to fight what i believe is an oil pressure issue.
      what else would cause the oil light (and buzzer) to go off when revv'd over 2500rpms when really cold.?
      i think it may need a new oilpump. does the 1.5 use the same oilpump as the 1.8?
      or even the same oil pan gasket???
      where can you get a new distributor with the vacuum advance?
      how do you check/adjust the choke vacuum pull down unit?
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      Before doing all of the above I had to do a number of tests on various other items like: Checking the Automatic Choke & Thermo Switches, Checking the Throttle Kicker, Checking the Idle Shutoff Valve, Checking Cold-Start Enrichment Valve, Checking Part Throttle Heater, Checking Main Jet Cutoff, Checking Vacuum Control Unit. FYI, all of these tests may be specific to your carb. For my carb all these tests are in the Rabbit Service Manual for 1980 Gasoline Models published by Robert Bentley. Since your carb is different the tests in this manual may not be the same.

      i'll have to check out the bentley site and see what they have.
      your carb looks different? what's different about it?
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      If the fuel filter(s) on your VW have not been changed in a while do yourself a favor and change them BEFORE you do anything else. If your fuel filter is letting dirt into your carb you could be having issued relating to that.
      When was the last time you checked the condition of the carb mount????
      When this mount deteriorates the carb can move and let cold air in stalling the engine. If the carb mount is not tight the same thing can happen.
      Last time I checked the following company sold carb rebuild kits for most carbs. If you think your carb needs a rebuild they might have a rebuild kit for your carb. http://www.carbkits.com/

      the fuel filter doesn't look oem it's just a clear inline filter.
      what would be oem? where can i get it?
      where and what is the carb mount and where can i get one?
      i'll checkout the site and see what they've got
      i really really appreciate your response and i owe you a few


      Modified by broken dipstick at 9:16 PM 2-3-2008

    8. 02-04-2008 04:16 PM #6
      anymore help?
      http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/1B3type.html
      is this the carb?

    9. 02-04-2008 04:25 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      what happens now is the car runs/drives fine..
      but at idle it will idle at about 2k.. then if you tap the gas it will go down..
      keep on tapping you can even kill out the engine.
      or sometimes if sitting at idle it will just die.
      i'm thinking it's a choke issue?
      the car is very hard to start also which makes me think choke.
      when i first start it up the oil light came on when i revv'd over 2.5k
      does that mean i need a new oilpump?

      Sounds to me like your throttle plate(s) might be sticking if this happens after the engine is warmed up. You might want to check the action of the throttle plate by hand to see if it is smooth.
      When you tap when the engine is warming up and the car has a properly adjusted choke, the fast idle cam on the carb is disengaged, allowing the idle to fall to normal.
      Your carburetor choke is a coolant-type, and is obviously disconnected as seen in your picture showing the bare inlets and outlets.
      The first thing I would check with the oil light is make sure the red/black wire is properly affixed on the coil terminal, then your next step is to check the oil pressure sensors on the oil filter housing and on the side of the cylinder head.



      Modified by chickenfriend at 4:30 PM 2-4-2008

    10. 02-04-2008 04:26 PM #8
      check them how?
      shouldn't the choke on the side have coolant flowing through it???

    11. 02-04-2008 04:32 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      shouldn't the choke on the side have coolant flowing through it???

      Yes. Obviously a previous owner has disconnected it.
      Perhaps you could find an electric choke or a manual choke kit, which I would suggest as an alternative to the aqua-lung.
      However, if you want to try the water choke, you need to id the places on the coolant lines that could provide a coolant outlet and inlet for the choke.
      If you plan on keeping the car for a while, I suggest the purchase of a Bentley manual. In the meantime, I think there should be some info in the archives on testing the oil sensors, unless someone wants to post up the procedure in this thread.



      Modified by chickenfriend at 4:39 PM 2-4-2008

    12. 02-04-2008 05:50 PM #10
      well my dad has a mk1 bentley manual..
      the only time the buzzer goes off is if i rev it up high when it's super cold.
      does anyone know where a good outlet/inlet is for the coolant?
      why would a PO disconnect it?
      the car runs fine except it will idle high.. then i'll tap the gas to put it back at normal and occaisionally it will die..
      i messed a little with the idle mixture screw and the idle
      where would i find choke kit?

    13. Member Tate's Avatar
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      02-04-2008 06:33 PM #11
      Maybe the oil light is coming on from excessive pressure? I don't know if it would do that, but your oil pressure should be higher when the oil is cold. Maybe you should get a pressure gauge and see what it is really doing, even if only temporarily. Or maybe the pickup tube is gunked up preventing it from picking up enough oil when it is cold and thick and that cold oil isn't draining back into the pan fast enough. I think I would drop the oil pan and check it out.
      Good luck, and sweet car.
      booze

    14. 02-04-2008 07:50 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      i'll check this tomorrow

      not that i noticed.. where are the lines supposed to come from?
      maybe this could be a problem with the cold start as well..

      Did you have a chance to look at the carb butterfly when the engine was cold?
      On my carb the coolant hoses go from the carb to the manifold.
      http://www.gti16v.com/rabbit/images/carb2.jpg
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      i am not sure what exactly i did but i turned (tightened) the screw on the bottom left here by the throttle cable and it dropped the idle from around 2k to 1k (after a few turns).
      i think they had the idle higher in hopes it would stall less at idle to no avail

      When I had stalling problems I bumped up the idle but that did not really solve the problem. In fact, under certain circumstances, bumping up the idle made some situations worse.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      the distributor does have a vacuum hose on it. i don't believe i've replaced that line yet.

      You might want to replace that line. In my case, the vacuum advance itself was shot. I used a Miti-Vac tool to test the vacuum on the unit and it failed (miserably) to hold vacuum.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      all i know about the venting is what the PO told me.
      and there is a tiny hole drilled in the gascap to vent the tank.

      What the PO did to vent the tank was probably not the best idea.
      Did the PO say WHY he did that? Was gas leaking out from under the cap when the tank was full on a hot day? You might want to track down a replacement gas cap and put it on. Be warned that the carb engine Rabbit uses a DIFFERENT gas cap than the Fuel Injected engine. If you do replace it make SURE the look EXACTLY the SAME.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      the hard start in my case is also because of 15w40 oil that the PO put in to fight what i believe is an oil pressure issue.
      what else would cause the oil light (and buzzer) to go off when revv'd over 2500rpms when really cold.?

      After checking the oil light and sensors like chickenfriend said, I think you should really think about changing both the oil and oil filter on your VW. I would make SURE that the oil filter is the correct one for this engine. What brand oil filter is currently on the engine? I have to wonder if the oil filter is working properly or not and if that might be a contributing factor to your oil light/buzzer going on. Dumb question, have you checked the opil level lately and is it at the proper level (ie full)??
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      i think it may need a new oilpump. does the 1.5 use the same oilpump as the 1.8? or even the same oil pan gasket???

      BTW, is your engine a 1.5L or a 1.8L??? Once I know which engine I can try to look up your oil pump and oil pan gasket questions.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      where can you get a new distributor with the vacuum advance?
      how do you check/adjust the choke vacuum pull down unit?
      i'll have to check out the bentley site and see what they have.
      your carb looks different? what's different about it?

      A new distributor w/vacuum advance might be a REAL TOUGH challenge to find. That is especially true if your VW is from Europe. Getting a new one might not be a wise move if you end of having to go with a manual choke in place of your disconnected coolant one.
      Man, I am starting to get the feeling that the PO did some "creative engineering" when it comes to the engine & carb in your VW.
      I doubt the Bentley Site will have anything specifically for your exact carb.
      There are a lot of testing procedures in the Bentley Manual for my Rabbit.
      Trouble is, that manual is specifically written for my carb, not yours.
      Be advised when it comes to carb info in Bentley Manuals the 1980 Gas Engine Manual has the most info. Bentley Manuals that span multiple years tend to have MUCH LESS information about carb Rabbits.
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      the fuel filter doesn't look oem it's just a clear inline filter.
      what would be oem? where can i get it?
      where and what is the carb mount and where can i get one?

      I have often seen fuel filters from VW Beetles used on Carb Rabbits.
      These are clear, inline fuel filters. VW Dealers could get them for you
      but they are not worth the money. If you have a small VW shop in your town that services air cooled VWs, chances are they will have fuel filters
      and they will not be too expensive.
      The carb mount is a rubber mount that has two long bolts coming out of one end and two much shorter bolts coming out the other end. The two shorter bolts go through the bottom of the carb and are anchored with nuts.
      The two longer bolts go down through the manifold and are also anchored with nuts. If the carb mount is loose or the rubber is cracked air can leak inbetween the carb and the mount or the mount and the manifold. When that happens that unmetered air chokes the engine and it stalls.
      Replacing your carb mount could be a risky thing to do. You should take it off to try to find out what mount you have. Unfortunately, do so might damage or tear it if it is old/brittle. Easiest way to test for a leak is get the engine up to operating temperature then take a can of compressed air (usually sold to clean computers at electronic stores) and spray the air around the base of the carb. If the engine idle changes or the engine stalls you have a leak and should replace the carb mount.
      BTW, here is another photo of my carb (Solex 34 PICT-5). As you can see it does look a lot different than your carb.
      http://www.gti16v.com/rabbit/images/carb1.jpg
      Sorry for the very long post.
      Hope this helps.. Be advised that I can ususally only post on Vortex at night so my responses might not be as fast as you need/like.
      Charlie

      '80 VW Rabbit "C" - 81 VW Pickup - '85 VW Golf - 1987 GTI 16V - 2002 New Beetle - 2012 Toyota Tundra 4x4, 5.7L V8
      Visit the Unofficial GTI 16V Home Page at www.gti16v.org

    15. 02-04-2008 07:57 PM #13
      thank you again i'll check this later no time now.
      apparently my carb model is the piersburg1b3

    16. 02-05-2008 09:05 AM #14
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      apparently my carb model is the piersburg1b3

      it is this model.. apparently decently common in the UK and europe.
      here are some schematics of the vacuum liines.. mine look WAYYY off from these pics.

      the coolant lines... shows where i need to attach the choke.
      do you think the PO left it off for good reason????

      sorry for the huge pics
      anyways here are some shots of what i've got. a pic of the oilpan because i wanted to see if it was like the 1.8
      do the oil sensors look good and wired up right?








      what is the thing i circled?
      also what is the valve leaking coolant??

    17. Member Enur's Avatar
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      02-05-2008 11:03 AM #15
      I havent read the complete topic here - but i understand you have carb and oil problem?
      I think it looks like you got a pretty big dent in that oilpan ... I'm pretty sure that any other 8v pan would fit. Maybe you could have a broken oil pickup?
      Also that oilsender looks to be done - Looks like it is leaking pretty bad! Thats normal, and makes a mess!
      I see that your coolant lines to the carb are disconnected - I can take pictures of my connections if they can help you?
      I have a Golf with the 1.5 engine - I believe yours is also a JB engine?
      I will take pictures if you want and think they can help!
      Some people leave footprints behind ... others impressions!
      Choose your own style!

      The Golf 1 project: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3303924
      The Audi dailydriver: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3544626

    18. 02-05-2008 01:50 PM #16
      yes !
      if you could take pics of both the routing of the coolant lines and vacuum lines it would help greatly.
      is your carb the piersburg 1b3? or the 2e3?
      the oil problem is only a buzzer on startup when revved over 2.5k
      anyone know which sensor that would be?


      Modified by broken dipstick at 11:01 AM 2-5-2008

    19. Member Enur's Avatar
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      02-05-2008 02:46 PM #17
      I am pretty sure it is the same carb as yours ... The 1b3 right?
      Anyway - I will get the pictures tomorrow if i have the time. It is to dark and rainy to go out now
      Some people leave footprints behind ... others impressions!
      Choose your own style!

      The Golf 1 project: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3303924
      The Audi dailydriver: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3544626

    20. 02-05-2008 05:35 PM #18
      that would be awesome.
      although the carb isn't my biggest issue now since apparently this was never legitimately imported into the USA
      anyone have a spare vin-tag and title they want to sell me?

    21. 02-05-2008 07:12 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by broken dipstick »
      it is this model.. apparently decently common in the UK and europe.
      here are some schematics of the vacuum liines.. mine look WAYYY off from these pics.
      the coolant lines... shows where i need to attach the choke.
      do you think the PO left it off for good reason????
      anyways here are some shots of what i've got. a pic of the oilpan because i wanted to see if it was like the 1.8
      do the oil sensors look good and wired up right?
      [what is the thing i circled?
      also what is the valve leaking coolant??

      The valve with the coolant on it is the valve that controls how much coolant gets into the heater core. That coolant is what produces heat inside your VW.
      At the very least the oil sensor and wires attached to it need to be cleaned up. Too much crud on the senor and wire could cause inaccurate readings.
      The photo of the oil pan definitely shows you need a new one.
      Cannot tell from the photos where the coolant lines for the choke would attach. Chances are the connections are close to the choke.
      Cannot tell for sure but it looks like the vacuum hose attached to the vacuum advance on the distributor is old/frayed? If that is true replace it and all other vacuum lines that are old/frayed.
      Photos from Enur will be a BIG help to you.
      The more I see of your VW the more I believe that some aspects of your engine have been "re-engineered" by the PO.
      Charlie

      '80 VW Rabbit "C" - 81 VW Pickup - '85 VW Golf - 1987 GTI 16V - 2002 New Beetle - 2012 Toyota Tundra 4x4, 5.7L V8
      Visit the Unofficial GTI 16V Home Page at www.gti16v.org

    22. Member Jettaboy1884's Avatar
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      02-05-2008 07:22 PM #20
      Is it possible that the PO of your car removed the coolant lines to the choke because it was leaking? If it were to leak, could it get coolant into the fueling area of the carb?
      Although I cannot offer any real advice, I'd like to say that it is great to see people taking the time to help each other out. You don't see such in-depth and helpful answers on many of the other VW sections of this site.
      Keep it up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by Jettaboy1884 at 8:25 PM 2-5-2008

    23. 02-05-2008 09:38 PM #21
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      The valve with the coolant on it is the valve that controls how much coolant gets into the heater core. That coolant is what produces heat inside your VW.

      word.. found them online.. only 5 bucks. can't beat that!
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      At the very least the oil sensor and wires attached to it need to be cleaned up. Too much crud on the senor and wire could cause inaccurate readings.
      Cannot tell for sure but it looks like the vacuum hose attached to the vacuum advance on the distributor is old/frayed? If that is true replace it and all other vacuum lines that are old/frayed.
      Photos from Enur will be a BIG help to you.
      The more I see of your VW the more I believe that some aspects of your engine have been "re-engineered" by the PO.

      yes i will worry about those later since it doesn't seem to be the worst issue by any means.
      that vacuum line has been replaced.. but in the diagrams i see there should be a vacuum outlet on the distrubutor but there isn't?
      and yes.. it looks as if much has been "re-engineered"
      Quote, originally posted by Jettaboy1884 »
      Is it possible that the PO of your car removed the coolant lines to the choke because it was leaking? If it were to leak, could it get coolant into the fueling area of the carb?

      i doubt it.. i think there is just a sensor in there that electronically switches the choke on/off at a certain temp.
      Quote, originally posted by Jettaboy1884 »
      Although I cannot offer any real advice, I'd like to say that it is great to see people taking the time to help each other out. You don't see such in-depth and helpful answers on many of the other VW sections of this site.
      Keep it up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      i agree wholeheartedly with this statement.

    24. Member Enur's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 28th, 2007
      Location
      Denmark - Roskilde Area
      Posts
      917
      Vehicles
      1983 Volkswagen Golf LX 1.5, 1995 Audi A4 1.8T 20V
      02-06-2008 11:14 AM #22
      I have made som pictures that i hope can be helpfull ... Hope you get your problems solved, both with engine and registrations
      I am not sure if it helps but i have coloured the different vacuumlines here: (Got high-res copies of original pictures if they are better?)



      The vacuum on the distributor connects to part mounted on the outside of the distributor.

      The part sits here shown on the right:

      This is just and overview - Lots of things going on in the picture, but shows the waterhoses.

      And my oilpan without dents - but with lots os rust, oil and rustprotection



      Modified by Enur at 5:19 PM 2-6-2008
      Some people leave footprints behind ... others impressions!
      Choose your own style!

      The Golf 1 project: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3303924
      The Audi dailydriver: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3544626

    25. 02-06-2008 05:06 PM #23
      could you take a pic of the vacuum stuff from the left side of the carb??
      it seems pretty much everything is right.
      also can you take a picture of which port on the intake that vacuum line that is disconnected goes to?
      i'm a little confused as to the back of the carb and the left side (toward vacuum ball)
      a couple more pics would really help me out.. but thanks for the ones you took! [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    26. 02-06-2008 05:25 PM #24

      1. ok... i need to know if i have the blue and the red on the intake mixed up?
      2. also i need a picture from the back of the manifold to see if i have the violet and the red on the correct ports.


      in this pic i need to know where hose #2 goes down by the engine???

      do you know the part number for the throttle cable?? i can't figure out which one to get. ?


      Modified by broken dipstick at 2:31 PM 2-6-2008

    27. 02-08-2008 09:42 AM #25
      anyone know a manual choke that will work instead of this water choke?
      http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/1B3type.html
      the waterchoke is over $200 from the UK

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