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    Thread: DIY: Lug bolt to Lug nut conversion

    1. 04-14-2008 01:16 PM #1
      I have decided to go ahead and do a write up on this, because from what i have found, is that people think this is much more complicated than it really is.
      this makes changing wheels, running different sets up wheels/spacers etc. ridiculously easier and much faster.
      the install is pretty universal on a 4 lug or 5 lug car and dosent matter if you have drum or disc rears.
      Materials needed:
      - 16 studs 12x1.5 thread pitch (4 lug) or 20 studs 14x1.5 thread pitch (5 lug) - can be found here http://gearworksmfg.com/access....html
      - OPEN ENDED lug nuts with appropriate thread pitch
      - Red Loctite
      Tools Needed:
      - Allen keys/sockets
      - Torque wrench
      Estimated Time: 30 minutes install, 24 hour set period
      How to:
      1 - Loosen lugs to remove wheels
      2 - Jack up the car and put it on jackstands, this is important because you need to leave the car up over night after installing the studs.
      3 - Remove wheels and lug bolts, clean threads inside the hubs
      4 - Make sure your new studs are clean

      5 - Take one of the new studs you purchased and smother the short end of the threads in red loctite, this is important, because if you dont, they probably wont stay in very long.


      6 - Insert the stud into the hole and thread it with your hand at first to ensure proper threading.
      7 - The studs i purchased had an allen key in outward facing side, you can use this to tightened the stud into place. If you do not have this you can thread a two nuts facing each other so that they will be tightened against each other and tighten the stud in that way.

      8 - There is no specific torque spec to tighten them to, thread the studs all the way in, and then slightly further so that the threads start to dig into unthreaded part. This was recommend by bildon, they said to do this and as for a torque spec for those that want it, around 20 ft-lbs.
      9 - Repeat steps 6 and 7 until all studs are in.
      Front Disc:

      Rear Drum:

      10 - Red loctite takes 10 minutes to cure, and 24 hours to completely set, so leave the car on jackstands for 24 hours.

      11 - After 24 hours have passed your good to put on your new open ended lug nuts and wheels and torque the lug nuts to 85 ft-lbs. You must use open ended lug nuts because with the length of the studs it is possible they might hit the top of the nut if they were closed.

      12 - Continue to check that the studs are tight and do not move freely for the first few wheel changes and check sporadically for the first 200 miles.
      13 - Done.
      any questions/comments/concerns, post them up and ill try my best to help!
      good luck
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by midwestjetta at 10:21 AM 4-14-2008

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    3. Member DantheVWman's Avatar
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      04-14-2008 01:22 PM #2
      I have to say those do look less safe. The amount of thread that is attached looks like less then just a standard lug bolt....I could be wrong though. Nice pics!
      .:dubnoxious:.

    4. Member Pete W.'s Avatar
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      04-14-2008 01:24 PM #3
      Nice I have been thinking of doing this since I got my Jetta.

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    6. 04-14-2008 01:27 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by DantheVWman »
      I have to say those do look less safe. The amount of thread that is attached looks like less then just a standard lug bolt....I could be wrong though. Nice pics!

      thanks
      ive gotten a few comments on this
      its not any less safe if done correctly, but i can understand concerns. The thread that goes into the hub is about 1/2 inch, i dont know if it looks like that in the images, and the thread for the lug nuts is about 2 inches
      i personally did it to make it easier to change wheels in between racing and driving on the street



      Modified by midwestjetta at 10:29 AM 4-14-2008

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      04-14-2008 02:38 PM #5
      where did you purchase the lugs?

    8. Member Racer16's Avatar
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      04-14-2008 02:48 PM #6
      Only drawback that i can see is that doing rotors will be a pain in the ass.Normally u can just loosen the bottom carrier bolt and are still able to slide the rotors out.This way you will have to take off the whole carrier.But Looks good.I personally prefer the lug nuts.But looks good to me.

    9. 04-14-2008 03:15 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by JackieMoon »
      where did you purchase the lugs?

      ebay, they were $20 if i recall
      Quote, originally posted by Racer16 »
      Only drawback that i can see is that doing rotors will be a pain in the ass.Normally u can just loosen the bottom carrier bolt and are still able to slide the rotors out.This way you will have to take off the whole carrier.But Looks good.I personally prefer the lug nuts.But looks good to me.

      when replacing rotors i have always removed the carrier and caliper fully, so thats not an issue for me, but i can see what your saying.

    10. 04-14-2008 03:28 PM #8
      Kinda funny, a new passat did this to his car to run some ugly ass rims, we put new tires on it a while back, kid comes back today with his fender all mangled up and ish. Says the front wheel fell off.
      Tried to blame us, but we had relized the tires we put on the front were now on the back, so he had tried to rotate them himself.
      Stupid ****er.

    11. 04-14-2008 07:47 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by IwishIhadaHonda »
      Kinda funny, a new passat did this to his car to run some ugly ass rims, we put new tires on it a while back, kid comes back today with his fender all mangled up and ish. Says the front wheel fell off.
      Tried to blame us, but we had relized the tires we put on the front were now on the back, so he had tried to rotate them himself.
      Stupid ****er.

      hey probably had left the lugs untightened or did the install wrong, that is pretty funny though

    12. Member 95GolfIIIGL's Avatar
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      04-14-2008 07:54 PM #10
      Is it really that tough to use the lug bolts? I mean, if you had to change wheels really fast, like in Nascar or F1, I can understand, but normally it doesn't really bother me.

    13. 04-14-2008 08:00 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by 95GolfIIIGL »
      Is it really that tough to use the lug bolts? I mean, if you had to change wheels really fast, like in Nascar or F1, I can understand, but normally it doesn't really bother me.

      no, its not difficult, but it does make it much easier to swap around multiple sets of wheels, wheel/spacer setups without having to have all different sets of lug bolts.
      im not saying that everybody should do it, or that its better or superior, i did it because i prefer to have this set up.
      Quote, originally posted by DantheVWman »
      LETS SEE THIS SHT WITH THE WHEELS BTCH

      haha
      pictures will come as soon as some of the race day pictures are done, those are the only ones with the wheels on them, i didnt take any before then

    14. Member DantheVWman's Avatar
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      04-14-2008 08:08 PM #12
      ooo struck down by a mod. oh wells.
      .:dubnoxious:.

    15. Member liquidicenf's Avatar
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      04-14-2008 08:25 PM #13
      nice little write up.. i've always contemplated doing this..

    16. 04-15-2008 12:14 AM #14
      Quote, originally posted by liquidicenf »
      nice little write up.. i've always contemplated doing this..

      its really easy, and can be done in no time
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    17. Member bikerbill2021's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 12:19 AM #15
      you gotta get a rear disc coversion son! all that work on that mark 4 mani swap and im still seeing drums on that bad boy?
      tsk tsk

    18. Member handKrafted2549's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 12:29 AM #16
      i did this conversion a few months back, i have to say i do enjoy it...i was skepticle on the studs loosening over time, but its been about 8months, 12,000 miles, removed the wheels about 15 times or so, and i have hit some serious **** on these east cost roads....and the studs still remain in the hubs when i take the wheels off.

      Quote, originally posted by JackieMoon »
      where did you purchase the lugs?

      Bildon Motorsports sells the nuts, for aftermartet wheels, 9 out of 10 times you will need a conical wheel nut
      2.0
      http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none
      VR6
      http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none
      and for OEM wheels you will need spherical wheel nuts
      2.0
      http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none
      VR6
      http://www.bildon.com/catalog/...=none

      bildon ships stuff out the next day too i got my stuff within 2 days of placing an order all 3 times [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      p.s. they have the studs too

      and to the OP nice little write up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    19. Member BoostdRex's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 12:32 AM #17
      Quote, originally posted by JackieMoon »
      where did you purchase the lugs?

      Bildon Motorsports has them too. That's where I got mine. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    20. Member 'dubber's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 12:53 AM #18
      Why are you using Loctite of any kind here? You do not need to use loctite on studs!!
      The proper way to install them is to hand-tighten them into the hub with the allen key until they snug up. Then install the wheel and the lugnuts. (You can use closed lugnuts if you measure and size your studs accordingly.) Then torque the nuts down to spec. Then drive around for 50 miles or so. Then loosen and re-torque the nuts to spec. If the threads on the studs and the hub are clean, they will not back out and will stay in the hub when you need to remove the wheel.
      I ran studs for thousands of miles that I installed in the manner described above and and they never loosened and were easy to remove from the hubs when I wanted to pull the studs out, and never came out with the nuts when I wanted to pull the wheels off.

      =P

    21. Member cool white98's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 06:56 AM #19
      good links!
      BeMoreEuro - Northeast Baltimore European Car Enthusiasts
      GTG's every first and third Tuesday in Parkville at Racers Cafe
      ---------http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BeMoreEuro/---------
      ****https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...e-Tuesday-GTG!****

    22. 04-15-2008 07:53 AM #20
      My adapters were attached onto the hub this way too. I also used Loctite. No dramas for me!

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      04-15-2008 08:00 AM #21
      I did this conversion on my MKIV. Ordered all the stuff from BFI. If you are careful selecting the studs, you can come up with an 'installed' length that will allow you to used closed-end nuts.
      For the curious, the advantage to this setup is really evident if you are running spacers. I also like being able to set the wheel in place and not have it fall off as I am fumbling with the lug nuts.

    24. 04-15-2008 09:35 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by ’dubber »
      Why are you using Loctite of any kind here? You do not need to use loctite on studs!!

      not only does Bildon strongly advocate using loctite, but so do the veteran racers that i have talked to that have done this before me.
      im gonna go ahead and still use loctite

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      04-15-2008 09:47 AM #23
      Simply, since the threaded hole in the hub goes all the way through, there is nothing for the stud to bottom out against to stretch the threads. You can 'mar' the threads to get it a little tighter, but the locktite does a great job.

    26. 04-15-2008 09:53 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by RabbitsKin »
      Simply, since the threaded hole in the hub goes all the way through, there is nothing for the stud to bottom out against to stretch the threads. You can 'mar' the threads to get it a little tighter, but the locktite does a great job.

      couldnt have put it better [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    27. Member uber ally's Avatar
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      04-15-2008 10:32 PM #25
      which lug nuts are those from the site? I couldn't find those same ones from Gearworks

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