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    Thread: Oil-related intake valve deposits

    1. 12-30-2008 02:59 PM #1
      This is a pretty good read:
      http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...25647
      Before you jump in with the catch-can, please actually read the link.

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    3. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      12-30-2008 06:14 PM #2
      Good read, i have been using the RLI for the last oil chance and will be tracking the wear trends, I am not skilled enough to pull the intake man. to see the valves but I will be keeping a eye on that thread.

    4. 01-02-2009 08:19 AM #3
      you can always run some decarb, i prefer seafoam. The best access for a decarb is through the Intake Air temp port just above the throttle body. Just get a large enough hose or a fitting w/ o-ring that will fill the port.
      I have had to Re-Ring 2 EOS's motors at work in the past month, and me and my shop foremen are looking at ways to remove the deposits through decarbs.

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    6. 01-02-2009 09:09 AM #4
      Remove the intake air temp sensor using a t30 torx.



      1/4" fuel line (the heavy duty stuff with 1/2" OD) fits perfectly into the intake air sensor port, which is centrally located directly above the throttle body. This will distribute evenly to all four cylinders.



      A basketball needle fits perfectly inside and provides enough restriction that you can run without codes. It also will meter the valve cleaner at a rate of approx. 100-150 ml/min, which will prevent hydrolocking the engine. (calcs based on a 0.5 to 0.6 mm diameter opening in the needle, and an intake vacuum of 20" of hg (approx. -10 psig)

      Leave the intake air sensor electrically connected so you do not get any faults. It will still sense the air temp, albeit a little off.

      Do not goose the throttle with it connected. You want the intake under vacuum, and not boost pressure.

      The active ingredient in the valve cleaner is naptha. The good German Ventil Sauber (valve cleaner) is about twice the concentration as the domestic Seafoam, but you get twice as much Seafoam for your buck.

      Use a longer fuel line than I have shown so you can dip into the can.

      Modified by dsire at 9:12 AM 1-2-2009

      Modified by dsire at 9:14 AM 1-2-2009

      Modified by dsire at 9:24 AM 1-2-2009

      Modified by dsire at 9:34 AM 1-2-2009

      Modified by dsire at 9:48 AM 1-2-2009


      Modified by dsire at 9:59 AM 1-2-2009

    7. 01-02-2009 09:16 AM #5
      excellent, thanks. sounds like a wall-mark parking lot job. ; )


      Modified by iGen3 at 10:09 AM 1-2-2009

    8. Member jmj's Avatar
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      01-02-2009 12:53 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by dsire »


      Just so I'm clear; I would want to use a longer section of fuel line and meter the Seafoam by dipping the end of the basketball needle into it with the engine running? Thanks.
      Quote Originally Posted by Taipei_E92 View Post
      If you generalize...you are always going to get it wrong.

    9. 01-02-2009 01:02 PM #7
      exactly. without the needle as a flow restrictor you could possibly suck up too much and hydrolock the engine.

    10. 01-02-2009 01:08 PM #8
      I stole this off one of the 2.0 FSI threads, but this is what the intake valves look like if not cleaned. Fuel additives will not help because the FSI injects the fuel directly into the cylinder and will not 'wash" the valve.
      PCV oil burned on the intake valve.

    11. 01-02-2009 03:38 PM #9
      O man... how do we clean this???? (sh&t)
      Sold the VAG COM

    12. Senior Member MFZERO's Avatar
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      01-02-2009 03:43 PM #10
      yum!

    13. 01-02-2009 05:09 PM #11
      I don't get it. VW/Audi is using one of the most elegant fuel systems on the market today (FSI, TSI) and yet fell asleep on the PCV system. This, and the flat tappet follower on the HPFP really disapoint me. Way to screw the pouch Volkswagen!!!
      -Nick-

    14. 01-03-2009 12:25 AM #12
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    15. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      01-03-2009 04:24 AM #13
      Is the method showed above save as it clears all the sensors and goes directly into the manifold, past the throttle plate.
      Procedure just turn car on and make sure its at op temp, suck about 1/3 of the can in slowly then cut the motor off let it soak for 10-15 min turn the motor on and rev it for a bit keeping the revs low for a few mins, then take ti for a spin with high RPM runs till no smoke comes out.

    16. 01-03-2009 01:13 PM #14
      I used to clean saab turbo intakes with air intake cleaner. Spray 1/2 the can in and then run the car. Spray other 1/2 in and then run the car again.
      Although this is not really designed to clean valves directly, it made a big difference in how the cars ran. And this spray cleaner is going through the intake valves into the combustion chamber and being burned
      (tons of white smoke out of exhaust until it is all burned off ) so it must also be cleaning the intake valves as well right?

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      01-03-2009 08:23 PM #15
      According to the link that the OP suggested and another related thread, North American VAG direct-injection engines have a problem with fuel dilution of oil.
      When my car was new, I noticed a strong gasoline smell on the oil dipstick. The car now has a bit over 19K on it, and the smell is reduced but still there. Has anyone else experienced this?
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] to the OP for the link. I had no idea that fuel dilution of oil was a likely issue with these engines.

    18. 01-03-2009 08:40 PM #16
      here are pics of #2 and #3 cylinder intake valves on an 07 eos w/ 22k miles. We just finished Re-Ringing the motor today.


      Modified by VWTechHouston at 5:41 PM 1-3-2009


      Modified by VWTechHouston at 5:42 PM 1-3-2009

    19. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      01-03-2009 09:07 PM #17
      Why did the 2 and 3 cylinders need to be re-ringed what was the problem with the motor/what was the symptoms.

    20. Member YoungMedic's Avatar
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      01-03-2009 10:03 PM #18
      my car seems like it always has a strong burned oil smell coming out if it when i get out no matter how easy or spirited i have been driving. i think about all the oil and vapr that gets consumed in the combustion chamber and cats and then the picture of those valves pop in my head everytime
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    21. Member staulkor's Avatar
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      01-03-2009 10:53 PM #19
      My exhaust has a real strong smell of gas and oil...
      And those intake valves are nasty...makes me want to seafoam my car now instead of waiting another 5k until 40k miles.

    22. 01-03-2009 11:45 PM #20
      Wow 22k miles. I guess sitting in the miserable big city traffic does not help much. Remember people, the more your engine idles, the quicker the valves will gunk up.
      How did cylinders 1 & 4 look? Hopefully not as bad as the two inner cylinders. Why are you re-ringing? Compression problems? Is it only EOS cars?
      I really need to set a day to check this out on my own car. I have 7,600 miles and it gets plenty of boost and not to much idle, so hopefully it won't be to bad. Although, I wonder what my turbo, intercooler, and piping look like. Do you see cars with alot of oil build-up post turbo from the rear breather?
      Sorry for all the questons, it's just nice to have insight from some one who wrenches on these cars every day.

    23. Member MKV~Adam's Avatar
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      01-04-2009 12:17 AM #21
      Found this product. No experience with it though..
      http://www.wynns.be/news.aspx?...d=282

    24. Senior Member MFZERO's Avatar
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      01-04-2009 12:34 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by MKV~Adam &raquo;
      Found this product. No experience with it though..
      http://www.wynns.be/news.aspx?...d=282
      interesting

    25. Member magilson's Avatar
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      01-04-2009 01:01 AM #23
      I would appear that a few solutions have been theorized (the most recent one by Ford, no less). They don't look like anything that will help us, tough.
      http://www.patentstorm.us/pate....html
      http://www.patentstorm.us/pate....html
      It would appear that by using variable valve timing (or lift) the ECU plays with the amount of fuel injected, injection timing (with respect to piston position), and intake valve timing (with respect to piston position) and/or valve lift. By forcing unburned fuel back into the intake and then drawing it in once again or alternately by spraying fuel across as much of the valve as the spray pattern allows the buildup issue can be managed. And by the sound of it, it doesn't require that much cycle time to make a difference.
      EDIT: This looks interesting as well. A special motor oil blend to help prevent the deposits.
      http://www.freepatentsonline.com/EP1608725.html
      More:
      http://www.freshpatents.com/Lu...6.php

      Modified by magilson at 12:25 AM 1-4-2009


      Modified by magilson at 12:31 AM 1-4-2009
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    26. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      01-04-2009 04:10 AM #24
      That special oil blend you can get from RLI, renewable lubricants inc, it is the 5w40 super high performance motor oil they have. It was formulated for an Audi RS4 motor and is known to work well with FSI motors and fuel dilution issues, and does help with intake valve deposits as it is low volatility. Check out the post about the FSI intake deposits.

    27. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      01-04-2009 04:11 AM #25
      http://www.wynns.be/news.aspx?...d=282
      I was looking at that stuff the other night, i wonder if it works better then sea foam some one needs to try ti out and fig out were ti blow it into..


      Modified by agpatel21 at 4:12 AM 1-4-2009

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