Between those two listed above, the difference would be longevity.
Kevlar has a finite life where the fiber carbon would last a bit longer.
Kevlar is suited to track or strip use, not ideal for daily driving, as stop and go could result in overheating of the disc.
Kevlar won't recover from overheating, and will slip.
Carbon doesn't suffer the same fate as Kevlar, but can take more abuse.
Both will wear the PP and FW faster than organic.
Choosing the correct friction material should take into account the type of driving that you plan on doing.
Also take into account your current or future torque level.
Organic stg 2 would be good for 375 ft/lbs .
Organic stg 1 would be good for 275 ft/lbs.
Placed a order yesterday after my clutch went out on the way home from school. Shop got it today and I should have the car back by this weekend.
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I have a 5 cylinder BGQ engine with a turbo in a corrado 4x4.
On this engine a use a G60 flywheel.
I am searching for a clutch that can handle up to 425 ft/lbs but don't want to change the flywheel.
Also I don't want to push the crankshaft out of the motorblock, had a sachs race enginering clutch and did not like it at all, had the feeling I was training my left leg in a gym.
The pedal engagement should be about normal, my wife is supposed to be able to drive in the car as well.
Because of the 4x4 drive train the wheel torque will not be reduced, no wheel spin.
Is there any cluch for this car with the specs I described?
Not at your power level without the firm pedal as you described above.
A stage 2 clutchnet might work for you even though you are beyond the max the mfg is rating these at.
Here are the specs;
Clutchnet Heat Treats the OEM Sachs Diaphram for a increase in clamp load.
Clutchnet also uses A triple strap instead of the two supplied in stock form. Upgrades the size of the rivits.
Sachs friction surface
Can anyone help a bro out here?