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020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

187K views 141 replies 24 participants last post by  vwbmx 
#1 ·
auto to manual swap questions

Alright guys....I consolidated this down a lot. If you see something that was accidentally deleted, or have any new info, please let me know and I will add it.
-askibum02



Modified by askibum02 at 2:01 AM 2-4-2009
 
#27 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
Sounds like alot of progress. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.

Thanks!
no abandonment at all you have been there to help me through IM http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
the hole was there already exposed the PO used it for running wires for a sound system install. I guess I'm going to blow $15 bucks today unless you want to ship it to me,if you have time? after the cable gets reinstalled the car will be ready to get the axles and get dropped back on the wheels.
question...on the shifter box I see no frontal mounting point?

the box itself has four mounting holes on the bottom; the rear two accept bolts from underneath.
what happens to the front two?
the auto shifter had a single front top bolt as well as the underneath mounting points.
is there a bracket I'm missing?
I can rig something up if necessary, just wondering.

Anyone reading this, its not really that hard just labor intensive as anyone thats done this can tell you

It is fun though

Cyclopath you have an IM. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


Modified by ayton at 11:52 PM 4-17-2006
 
#28 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (ayton)

I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.
 
#29 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.

Noted. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif Thanks for the tip- it seemed like that is what i should do. I was at the junkyard with some buddies this weekend looking for Subaru stuff, and i was looking at a Jetta. I commented to my friend how easy the linkage was to get to after the motor and tranny is removed...
 
#30 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)

Getting the flywheel bolts out won't be too much of a problem. They look like they would take a special socket. But a regular 12 point socket will fit it. And they are on with just 15-18 foot pounds. But the pressure plate bolts are wicked tight. Put one of the flywheel bolts back in. Then run one of the bellhousing bolts through a box end wrench and thread it back into the block. Then catch the flywheel bolt with the open end of the wrench. It will hold everything in place while you wrestle the pressure plate bolts out. Blurry picture is installing the new bolts. Just the reverse for removal.




Modified by Cyclopath at 9:53 PM 4-26-2006
 
#31 ·
Re: (ayton)

An impact gun works well to remove the bolts from the preasure plate as well!
Well I put the 16valve axles in today and wow what a difference. The car runs ALOT smoother now. I think my axle issue is solved but only time will tell. My engine light is still on and my thermostat still doesnt work, but the car runs like a top for 105,000 miles on it. I solved the gauge issue by installing aftermarket gauges
Oil preasure, water temp and just for fun a volt meter http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I found my digi camera so I will get some pics thursday and I will post a few

If anybody needs it I have a complete 5spd pedal cluster for sale!
-Adam
 
#32 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (vwnut18t)

Help! I went all out today and worked my butt off, doing all of the teardown and installation in one day. I was hoping to have it running tonight, but it won't even turn over. I jumped 1to3 and 4to6; and disconnected the transmission computer under the drivers side rear seat. Whenever i go to start the car the throttle body makes a noise that my friend says is "Throttle Body Adaptation". Anyway- do you have any ideas?
EDIT- OH! and i almost forgot. On the part of the wiring harness that used to go to the auto tranny, there are 4 plugs- the one that is straight 6 with the jumpers- the one that is several small wires, probably for the tranny computer; than two of the two prong connectors. There is one that will go to the manual transmission, but i am unsure which one to hook up, since they both fit.
Another EDIT- I found out today that the car performs a throttle body adaptation every time the battery is disconnected than reconnected and the car is turned to on. Until the car actually starts, the throttle body will contine to make a warbled high pitched squeel, that kinda sounds like a fuel pump on a GM



Modified by Skot53 at 11:11 AM 4-30-2006
 
#33 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)

the only thing you should be able to plug in is the speed sensor and it is not in the tranny wire bundle. There is one plug that has six wires and two that have two wires each and then the black skinny plug. that is four harnesses. the one you need to mess with is the six wire one and thats the one with the wires to jump. all other harnesses can be tucked away http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif make sure you got the correct wires to jump.1&3 from left to right or 1&3 from right to left
double check. Read off the wire colors to me and I may be able to tell you which ones go where. Also make sure you have all your ground wires hooked up, I know that sounds stupid but it is easy to overlook.
 
#34 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (vwnut18t)

For some vehicles, the 1-3 and 4-6 doesn't work. Remove these jumpers and try jumping 1-6. Keep the tranny computer unplugged. Don't need it anymore.
 
#35 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Cyclopath)

Bummer. Jumping 1to6 didn't work either. I also checked my grounds
. So, i wrote down all of the colors, just to make sure my head is screwed on straight- I WAS jumping
1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 3 (Black) and
4 (Brn) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe) -- Didn't turn over.
So, then i tried to jump
1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe)
Still didn't turn over. I checked all of my connections in the engine, and tried to be as nice as possible in the fuse box area... Possibly i wiggled a relay loose under there. I'll go look. Any more suggestions would be really helpful!
I took a lot of pictures during the whole process, so if you guys help get my car running, i'll give you that as a "Prize"
(In reality, i am trying to get going and don't care about no stinking pics...)
 
#36 ·
Re: Today's "progress" (Skot53)

Okay, Earlier i was reading around and i heard some mention about the reverse lights wiring and jumping certain wires to the park/neutral relay, also known as the 150 relay. where is this located, becuase i looked at the fuse box and didn't see and 150 relay... Perhaps it was removed? pictures of the relay in question would be helpful....
 
#37 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)

Ayton here are the pics of the tranny mount. I couldnt really get closer but the shift linkage hooks to the mount and the mount bolts to the side of the transmission with three bolts. There should be three holes around the diff housing.


Hope this helps. I had to use a big pry bar to move the tranny around in order to get the bolt stabbed and driven in.
 
#39 ·
Re: (vwman099)

Might try to wrap this up tonight. Thinking shorting pin 60 and 65 (yellow and white wires) on the TCM harness. Then short the two black with blue stripe wires off the neutral /park switch. Then find the white (other end of the TCM white wire) and black wire (from F8S to short out to apply the power to the switch and eventually to the back-up lights. Sound about right?
 
#40 ·
Re: (Cyclopath)

I verified my thoughts by checking the resistance on the reverse switch. Switch is open while in reverse. Closed when not in reverse. (Of course, the bentley shows it too).
So just need a switched power and the reverse light wire.
I would test some of the TCM wires for power when the car is one, but I am waiting on a few parts.
Are you able to verify any of the powered wires from the TCM? I don't have a problem tapping into the headlight harness for switched power.



Modified by vwman099 at 11:33 AM 5-17-2006
 
#42 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »
I spent quite a bit of time dealing with the return spring for the pedal. I ended up compressing it in the bench vise, strapping it with wire ties, and cutting the ties once I put it in. Maybe I didn't get the trick to doing this....

That is exactly what I did
its a good thing you posted that I totally forgot about that it will save someone a lot of time in the furure! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#43 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »
Did you drop the whole subframe?
I took off the tierods (busted one in the process), removed the lower ball joints, and took off all of the motor/tranny mounts and brackets.....

No didn't have to...i'm doing control arms because mine were SHOT! the center of the drivers side was completely detached. Just an FYI the R32 rear control arm bushings are HOT http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif MUCH easier install and they still seem very stiff and pliable.
 
#44 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)

Did you remove the pedal cluster? I didn't and couldn't imagine doing it.
I pulled the "short" rod out of the car and replaced with the long one. In order to do that I had to cut the plastic trim to the left of the rod. Not sure how you approached that. I think I have a few hours of time spent under the dash.
That clutch pedal is something I try to forget.... I still need to put another "clip" on the end of the rod. The automatic rod only has one clip, the manual has one on each end. I had to go to the dealership to order another and now I can't get the it on.......


Modified by vwman099 at 11:11 PM 5-25-2006
 
#45 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)

I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.
 
#46 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (Cyclopath)

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.

I hear YOU! I originally tried to do it but it just wasn't necessary or practical...the cluster is really wrapped around stuff under there. Check the early part of the thread vwman099 many of your questions are answered there. rhyme and reason behind the swap.
 
#47 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)

cyclopath, saw you posted in the mk3 issues thread.... and I remembered I needed to reply....
Well I determined that my reverse switch was malfunctioning.... Sometimes it would allow current through even when it was not in reverse. So I ordered a new one from fap99 and tested the switch. As I thought, when reverse is in gear the switch closes, and vice versa.
So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. Then I hooked a wire to the other side of the switch and pulled it through the firewall down to the driver's side kick panel. Which is where you can find the two blue/black wires, one is in a smaller loom (going to rear of the car) and one is in the larger loom going to the TCM harness. I patched that wire (from the reverse switch) into the blue/black wire on the rear harness which goes to the reverse lights. The reverse lights are grounded at the light, so no issues there....
Things I realize: I didn't get to determine the exact source of the current for the 6 pin harness, so I'm not sure how much amperage the wiring is fused for.... For now I needed a quick fix, but I'm sure you can tap into one of the park or light sources in at the fuse panel or by the front lights harness. For as little as the lights are used, I'll take my chances.
From what I understand, the Relay that controls the reverse lights is tied into the TCM. One of the blue/black wires runs to the relay at the fuse panel, then the other goes to the TCM to activate or deactivate the relay as needed..... Cyclopath, I think thats what you were getting at.
You probably could just provide power to one of the old TCM wires at the tranny, and then just splice it over into the reverse lights.... Thus, elminating the need to pull a wire.


Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006
 
#48 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (vwman099)

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »

So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch.
Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006

This is part of my thinking process also...the two wires left over after jumping (I left loose ) so that I could tinker with the reverse after I get the car going, I'm putting an exahuast together for it now.
 
#49 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (ayton)

Anyone with the P1613 error code, I got an easy fix for you. Find a friend with a laptop with the VAG-COM program installed. Need to change the transmission code in the ECM from auto to manual. Piece of cake for anyone who has and knows how to run the program. You're changing the code from 00001 to 00000.
To recode go to 11 (log-on) and enter 01283. Click [Do It!], than go to 07 Recode and enter the software codeing of your original ECU. check for typos than click [Do It!].
For the record known codeings for 037 906 259 are:
;00000 Golf Jetta Manual trans TIER 1
;00001 Golf Jetta Auto Trans TIER 1
;00002 Cabrio manual trans
;00003 Cabrio auto trans
;00004 Golf Jetta Cabrio manual trans TLEV
;00005 Golf Jetta Cabrio auto trans TLEV
;00006 Passat with manual trans.
;00007 Passat with auto trans.
NB: ECU will not use the new codeing utill the ignition has been cycled once.
 
#51 ·
Re: auto to manual swap questions (midwestjetta)

The trans will work, you just need to get the proper mkIII mount. The pedal assembly will have to come from a mkIII though. I have a complete peddal cluster if you need it. $75 shipped and its yours. You will have to get mkIII mounts though if your car is infact the 98 gls. The axles are close in sizes but believe me you have to get the propper size for your application. Read through the entire thread and you will see everything you will need to know about the swap. I am sure we will all chime in if you have further questions.
 
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