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    Thread: SLOOOW WIPERS

    1. 02-13-2009 07:40 PM #1
      I have an'84 GTI with slow moving wipers. They work but too slow. I tried lubricating the ars but not much improvement. Is this a sign the motor is going bad?

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    3. 02-13-2009 10:24 PM #2
      More likely a sign of lower than 12V voltage at the motor. Check your wiring and ground connections for corrosion.
      Check the motor for 12V when running. If it's more like 10v, then you know what your problem is. I know for a fact that the wipers start getting real slow around 10V. I burned up the field wire (blue wire) going to my alternator on my '80 Scirocco_S one night when it was raining. It wasn't till I was passing a semi-truck, with the headlights and wipers on that I noticed my wiper (factory mono-wiper) was running slower than normal making my attempts to see even more futile...
      I feel your pain...

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 10th, 2007
      Location
      Nuevo México
      Posts
      531
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat, 2.0T, 6-speed manual
      02-13-2009 10:31 PM #3
      Are the wipers moving too slowly on both speeds and the intermittant? If so, it is probably wiper motor related. BUT, check your grounding first, as this will also cause them to run too slowly.
      I will assume your wiper pivots are not corroded or siezed. If you have any doubt, unfasten the motor at the spring clip and swing the arms.
      Your wiper system consists of three basic electrical components:
      1. The switch (on steering column). A failed switch normally causes NO wipers on one or more speeds. It is unlikely to cause slow wipers on all speeds.
      2. Wiper and intermittant relay (on relay board under left side of dash). Again, unlikely to cause wipers to be slow on all speeds.
      3. Wiper motor (under plastic rain tray under windshield). You can test the motor by checking the voltage at the plug-in. You should have 12V at high speed (less on the low speed). Then check your grounding (brown wire). If voltage is OK and grounding is good, run a fused 12V wire directly to your motor high speed contact, and test the motor.
      Note: some earlier VW's had a constant 12V to the wiper motor, and a grounding switch completed the circuit. I believe all Westmoreland models had the switch on the positive side. Check with a VOM first.
      Alpinweiß
      2008 Passat, 2.0T, 6-speed manual, Euro lights

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    6. Member
      Join Date
      Aug 10th, 2007
      Location
      Nuevo México
      Posts
      531
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat, 2.0T, 6-speed manual
      02-13-2009 10:38 PM #4
      You are right that a lot of these Mk1 cars had low voltage problems. This was largely solved on the Westmoreland cars (US made) beginning in about 1981. The new fuse box and relay panel was less prone to internal melting and high resistance than the older style.
      I don't remember when the Scirocco relay panel was updated, but I think it was later, maybe around 1983.
      Sorry to repeat some of your post. I guess I was still typing while you posted.



      Modified by alpinweiss at 7:41 PM 2-13-2009
      Alpinweiß
      2008 Passat, 2.0T, 6-speed manual, Euro lights

    7. 02-18-2009 06:30 PM #5
      I now have a dead battery but that shoould be from not using the car and trying to fix the odometer with the dome light on. The battery is relatively new but is dead...no lights or anything. I tried to get a jump to take it to a garage but it won't run without the jump cables. The tow truck driver analyzed the battery and it was very drained. He said it may be a bad alternator. The alternator belt was lose so I tightened it.
      The Voltmeter was reading down below the middle of the gauge when it was running after the jump. I don't think the alternator is bad but maybe the ground. I have very limited electrical knowledge. I thightened the alternator belt after the jump. I then took the battery to a garage for charging.
      I also have had some other electrical problems including no horn or backup lights and the door buzzer buzzes even when the key is out of the ignition and the door is open. The rest of the lights and signals work including the gauges although the tachometer died several times while running. Strange problems.

    8. 05-30-2017 06:08 PM #6
      The battery problem was caused by a bad engine ground...rust at the connection. By grinding away the rust and applying electric conducting grease it works much better. I have a rear mounted battery that has its ground it the rear bumper. I probably should change it to a longer cable to the front.

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