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    Thread: Redline Oil

    1. 06-16-2009 12:49 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by bcze1 »
      All the German manufacturers have their own specs. US & Japanese generally use API spec unless its high performance car, like Corvette ZR-1 or Nissan GT-R.
      And yes, all they have to do is ask for your maintenance records if for some reason they're in question. No need to test a thing. If you can't prove you poured in an approved oil at the recommended intervals (or shorter) things could get ugly. However, it should be noted that the odds of a failure happening that makes a dealer or VW look into your maintenance records is pretty small. But it does exist.

      I figured not much chance of anything bad happening and the only reason why I asked is because of my run-in with Chrysler. However, I actually lifted the vehicle and I could see how that would cause some issues. Redline is better than most oils so I wouldn't expect many problems.

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    3. 07-10-2009 02:46 AM #27
      Redline said I needed to wait at least 1500 miles for all the seals to seat properly or all the seats to seal properly before changing to Redline. Sound right?

    4. Member 4ePikanini's Avatar
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      07-10-2009 03:42 AM #28
      good read here regarding oil that is not VW approved
      http://www.4x4community.co.za/...36591
      Karma's Law - For every action there is a multiplied reaction!
      1993 Mitsu Pajero GLS 3.0 V6 LWB - SOLD
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    6. 07-10-2009 09:37 AM #29
      I don't know if I trust the dealership to do my oil changes since when I bought the car new it had a Jiffy Lube sticker on it. It sounds like they didn't do the oil change and I surely wouldn't allow Jiffy Lube to touch my GLI.

    7. 07-10-2009 11:57 AM #30
      Quote, originally posted by YellowRubi »
      Redline said I needed to wait at least 1500 miles for all the seals to seat properly or all the seats to seal properly before changing to Redline. Sound right?

      I would follower their advice. Those guys know what they are doing. Roy Howell, Redline's chemist used to be the head chemist at Lubrizol as I understand it. Lubrizol makes the additives for numerous racing teams and oils such as Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, Amsoil, and many more. I know Mr. Howell is very well respected in the "Tribologist" community.

    8. 07-13-2009 10:44 PM #31
      What oil filter should I use with the Redline oil? I believe the shop I am using uses Xengst, Mann and Mahle filters.

    9. 07-14-2009 12:54 AM #32
      I would just use the OEM filter. When I buy from vw dealer it is Mann. But I think Hengst is also OEM. and I wouldn't doubt if Mahle is too. And even Fram, although not offically OEM I suppose, is visually identical in every way (as discussed on the oil filter thread). So these may well be all made in the same factory.

    10. Junior Member mekelbreg88's Avatar
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      07-15-2009 11:48 AM #33
      mobil1 oil isnt wat its hyped up to be
      i use mobil1 oil filter & AMSOIL 5w40

    11. 07-15-2009 02:23 PM #34
      I have 1700 miles on my GLI and I am changing to Redline on Friday. The seals should be seated by now correct?

    12. Member corradokidg60's Avatar
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      07-15-2009 02:43 PM #35
      *shrug* most people notice incremental fuel mileage increasing for the first 5k or so.

    13. 07-16-2009 12:10 AM #36
      Quote, originally posted by YellowRubi »
      I have 1700 miles on my GLI and I am changing to Redline on Friday. The seals should be seated by now correct?

      I would go by what redline says as far as how long to wait before changing factory fill. On there website they say 3000 miles which I assume is just a generalization for all cars. Let us know if you notice any difference in spool up. The 5w40 has a high HTHS so it is really shear stable. I am thinking of trying the Redline 10W30 as a test to see if I can get increased mpg while maintaining adequate protection. Redline's 10W30 has higher High Temperature High Shear viscosity than many 502 40 weight oils. I have a feeling the 30 weight may be a one-time test however as it is really hard for me to leave that very high level of protection of the RL 5W40.


      Modified by saaber2 at 9:11 PM 7-15-2009

    14. 07-16-2009 12:13 AM #37
      Quote, originally posted by saaber2 »
      I would go by what redline says as far as how long to wait before changing factory fill. On there website they say 3000 miles which I assume is just a generalization for all cars. Let us know if you notice any difference in spool up. The 5w40 has a high HTHS so it is really shear stable. I am thinking of trying the Redline 10W30 as a test to see if I can get increased mpg while maintaining adequate protection. Redline's 10W30 has higher High Temperature High Shear viscosity than many 502 40 weight oils. I have a feeling the 30 weight may be a one-time test however as it is really hard for me to leave that very high level of protection of the RL 5W40.

      Modified by saaber2 at 9:11 PM 7-15-2009

      I did talk to a guy at Redline and he said as long as I have gone through all the RPM's in all the gears then everything should be ok. I hope so!

    15. 07-16-2009 12:29 AM #38
      Yeah I think variability during break in is the key, especially using engine compression braking. Seems like the ones that are driven pretty hard during break in are fairing the best in terms of oil consumption but that is just an impression from everything I've read. If you look at the chart you can make a guess where break in wear seems to diminish, essentially where the slope is much less. Looks like around 6-8k ish. In reality there are lots of levels of "break in" however including the first few minutes (seconds?) done before you ever get the car and the term is tossed around without any real definition. BTW, my car's MFD said over 11.5 hours of time when there was only 12 miles on the car. Don't know what that means exactly (was it running? just ignition on?) but that's a long time.



      Modified by saaber2 at 9:31 PM 7-15-2009

    16. 07-16-2009 12:31 AM #39
      Do you think I should wait any longer or am I pushing the envelope here?

    17. 07-16-2009 12:46 AM #40
      Hard to say. I am guessing when I say I think 3k is totally fine as vw recommends 5k. My guess is there is probably not going to be much diff between 3k and 1700. The positive about changing early is you get rid of metal etc in the FF oil. The negative is you need some break in wear to occur. Where is the magic "sweet spot"? How much does fuel dilution factor in? Check out some of the factory fill UOAs if you want here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...34379 I can send you the database if you cant read it at that link.

    18. 07-16-2009 12:52 AM #41
      I wish I knew what all that meant.

    19. 07-16-2009 01:58 PM #42
      the biggest concern with break in is seating the rings properly... and this is accomplished literally in the first 100 miles of driving or so. after 500 miles, all the reciprocating pieces should be snuged up nicely.
      i performed my first oil change at 1.5k miles, and there was a HUGE amount of metallic flakes and other goodies that came out of the oil pan. 1.7k is certainly a good time for the first oil change.
      btw... my car burns ZERO oil because of my break in technique and early first oil change. i got roasted for suggesting an early oil change on the forums because "it is not in the owners manual." IMO, it is one of the most critical steps in promoting engine longevity...
      Here's my thread if you are interested:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3833155


      Modified by rhouse181 at 11:07 AM 7-16-2009

    20. 07-16-2009 02:05 PM #43
      Quote, originally posted by rhouse181 »
      the biggest concern with break in is seating the rings properly... and this is accomplished literally in the first 100 miles of driving or so. after 500 miles, all the reciprocating pieces should be snuged up nicely.
      i performed my first oil change at 1.5k miles, and there was a HUGE amount of metallic flakes and other goodies that came out of the oil pan. 1.7k is certainly a good time for the first oil change.
      btw... my car burns ZERO oil because of my break in technique and early first oil change. i got roasted for suggesting an early oil change on the forums because "it is not in the owners manual." IMO, it is one of the most critical steps in promoting engine longevity...
      Here's my thread if you are interested:
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3833155

      Modified by rhouse181 at 11:00 AM 7-16-2009

      This how I thought about it too, but I don't know much about oil or cars for that matter.

    21. 07-20-2009 01:09 PM #44
      I found a shop that I trust and they did my oil change for me for $25 including a new filter. I will never do my own oil if that is the price I have to pay. I will report back if I notice anything, but I am sure they will be all placebo effect.

    22. 07-20-2009 02:16 PM #45
      That is amazingly cheap. Was it an OEM filter? Usually the filter alone is around $15.

    23. 07-20-2009 02:53 PM #46
      Yup, it was an OEM filter. I thought it was cheap too, but I watched them and didn't question it either.

    24. 07-23-2009 12:52 AM #47
      # days in and the turbo seems to be smoother or spooling up faster. Could be placebo or the fact that it was 15 degrees cooler in Dallas and 30% humidity as opposed to 80%.

    25. 07-23-2009 12:36 PM #48
      On my car I noticed an immediate change when going from the factory fill 30 weight to the redline 5w40, which is a high 40 weight. With the increase in viscosity, one would expect a reduction in turbo spool up, but it is the opposite. On my dsg car, I had to adjust my driving a bit to get used to having more power sooner after changing to redline. Must be the polar POE base oils. I'm considering going to redline 10W30 on my next change as an experiment to see if I can improve mpg but still get great protection.

    26. 07-23-2009 01:02 PM #49
      I think I notice a little more kick. I will see if it helps with gas mileage. I just feel good knowing it is in there.

    27. 07-23-2009 02:15 PM #50
      Your mileage may actually go down a tad because it is a much thicker and stouter oil (HTHS viscosity of 4.6 vs. who knows, maybe 3.7 cP for factory fill?). So that is a huge increase in shear stability, film strength, protection, and thermal stability but I wouldn't expect the same mpg as a 30 weight (if it was that would be amazing). That's one of the thoughts I had about testing redline 10W30, the mpg may well go up compared to the 30 weight factory fill because of redline's polar esters and friction modifiers such as Moly Dithiocarbamates but have increased protection compared to 502 oils.

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