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    Thread: Redline Oil

    1. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      Turbocharged 2004 Civic SI with K20/K24 engine swap, 2006 Audi A3
      07-23-2009 03:40 PM #51
      hmm... might buy me some redline. sounds very convincing.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

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    3. 07-23-2009 05:54 PM #52
      Quote, originally posted by saaber2 »
      Your mileage may actually go down a tad because it is a much thicker and stouter oil (HTHS viscosity of 4.6 vs. who knows, maybe 3.7 cP for factory fill?). So that is a huge increase in shear stability, film strength, protection, and thermal stability but I wouldn't expect the same mpg as a 30 weight (if it was that would be amazing). That's one of the thoughts I had about testing redline 10W30, the mpg may well go up compared to the 30 weight factory fill because of redline's polar esters and friction modifiers such as Moly Dithiocarbamates but have increased protection compared to 502 oils.

      IMO, a 1-2mpg increase in overall efficiency is not worth the loss of protection and "durability" from the 40 weight oil... seems like the 5w40 holds up nicely in the 2.0T and actually performs its duty well, but i guess we will see how the 10w30 performs. certainly would expect a shorter change interval for the lighter viscosity, therefore more frequent expenses to cover oil changes, and in the long run you will spend more money on oil than you saved on gas.
      An adjustment in driving style would yield larger gains in mpg than changing your oil. but then again, you probably bought a GTI because you enjoy the performance driving characteristics. romp the right pedal and enjoy the boost because that is what you bought the car for! pay the extra $2.55 for the addition gallon of shell 93 per tank that you burn up ripping around town. if you are going for absolute fuel mileage, buy a TDI

    4. 07-23-2009 06:25 PM #53
      I went with 5W-40. I didn't change to Redline for mileage. I wish I could get 20mpg, but my driving is 95% stop/go city never even getting to 3rd gear. For that reason alone, I think Redline will be the most beneficial because of its protective qualities. Only time will tell how well it works, but the turbo seems to like it better!

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    6. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-23-2009 06:33 PM #54
      u cant break 20 with that kind of driving?
      i get that kinda stuff quite a bit but I find it hard to get below 22 even with my AC on.
      do u jack rabbit or slowly roll like me?
      hell, unless I wanna have fun, I drive like a grandma. lol
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    7. 07-23-2009 06:41 PM #55
      I get around 17-19. I have an APR Stage 1 so no I don't drive like a grandma. I bought the GLI after driving a Jeep for 3 years so I am like a kid in a candy shop every time I get in the car!!

    8. 07-23-2009 07:25 PM #56
      One trick you may want to experiment with is "pulse and glide". From a stop, near-maximum acceleration through the gears to about 5-10 mph over the speed limit then coast in a pretty high gear, and repeat.
      However when you coast, don't let off the throttle completely. If you let off completely you will have engine breaking. If you give it the tiniest amount of throttle you will be coasting without the engine drag. If you see - - - on the MFD you are using no fuel but you have engine braking. If you see 102 or 85 or 67 whatever mpg on the MFD you know you are essentially coasting without engine braking.
      I do it sometimes just for something to do and can generally get up to about 4-6 mpg better this way. This is for a DSG car. For the manual guys you can coast in neutral also if you want.



      Modified by saaber2 at 4:27 PM 7-23-2009

    9. 07-23-2009 07:29 PM #57
      Quote, originally posted by saaber2 »
      One trick you may want to experiment with is "pulse and glide". From a stop, maximum acceleration through the gears to about 5-10 mph over the speed limit then coast in a pretty high gear, and repeat.
      However when you coast, don't let off the throttle completely. If you let off completely you will have engine breaking. If you give it the tiniest amount of throttle you will be coasting without the engine drag. If you see - - - on the MFD you are using no fuel but you have engine braking. If you see 102 or 85 or 67 whatever mpg on the MFD you know you are essentially coasting without engine braking.
      I do it sometimes just for something to do and can generally get up to about 4-6 mpg better this way. This is for a DSG car for the manual guys you can use neutral also.

      Modified by saaber2 at 4:26 PM 7-23-2009

      MPG is not a huge priority for me, but it would be nice to see 20! I got 11 mpg on my Jeep so with having to put premium in it, I figure it is about a wash. I only drive 600-700 miles a month so great gas mileage does not apply to me.

    10. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-23-2009 08:00 PM #58
      im stage 1 too. lol
      unless i have the need for speed, im watching my MPG like a hawk.
      my highest MPG was 41 MPG (I have a pic too! nobody believed me till i took it.) in medium traffic on the way to work.
      was 81 degrees F, and I had just washed my car and the intercooler was nice and wet... I could have gotten more if I didnt try to pass everyone who cut in front of me.
      I love how this car is capable of so much power, yet can get such good mileage if u drive it right.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    11. 07-23-2009 08:22 PM #59
      I'm sure if I drove on the highway ever, I could get 25MPG which would be awesome, but I don't care because I have the best of both worlds. Decent gas mileage, great power for the money and lots of fun!!

    12. 07-23-2009 08:44 PM #60
      Quote, originally posted by Krieger »
      was 81 degrees F, and I had just washed my car and the intercooler was nice and wet...

      Very interesting, have you seen this before? I mean increased mpg with wet intercooler?
      I used to hook up water misters to spray on the outside of saab turbo intercoolers. It is ridiculously easy to do and you would get huge power gains on hot days. It made a huge difference on those cars as their small intercoolers would get heat soaked easily. The incoming "charge" air can be massively cooled via this method. If you have ever poured water on the radiator of an overheating car and watch it instantly cool down, you know what I mean. The cooling from evaporating water is tremendous.
      You can even hook them up so that they shoot onto the intercooler only above a certain psi of boost by using a $30 pressure sensor. That saves you having to fill up the water tank so often. Also because it is shooting only on the outside of the intercooler, it is pretty benign as far as causing unintended other effects.
      Maybe I will rig one of these up to try it out. I just used a saab wiper washer bottle with integrated pump before. Would be easy to hook up for a test. hmmm...

    13. 07-24-2009 11:48 AM #61
      Quote, originally posted by saaber2 »
      Very interesting, have you seen this before? I mean increased mpg with wet intercooler?
      I used to hook up water misters to spray on the outside of saab turbo intercoolers. It is ridiculously easy to do and you would get huge power gains on hot days. It made a huge difference on those cars as their small intercoolers would get heat soaked easily. The incoming "charge" air can be massively cooled via this method. If you have ever poured water on the radiator of an overheating car and watch it instantly cool down, you know what I mean. The cooling from evaporating water is tremendous.
      You can even hook them up so that they shoot onto the intercooler only above a certain psi of boost by using a $30 pressure sensor. That saves you having to fill up the water tank so often. Also because it is shooting only on the outside of the intercooler, it is pretty benign as far as causing unintended other effects.
      Maybe I will rig one of these up to try it out. I just used a saab wiper washer bottle with integrated pump before. Would be easy to hook up for a test. hmmm...

      yea did this too on my SPG... but i would always mix a little isopropyl alcohol or something in there too to increase the evaporative efficiency

    14. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-24-2009 07:05 PM #62
      yeah, i see power and MPG improvements all the time from doing it.
      I tried to rig something up on my brother's boosted S2000 and we totally failed. lol, it was pretty much a water pump in a container that would pump the liquid down this rubber line we had and mist onto the intercooler... not enough liquid to make any difference... idk if it was the design or what.
      if u can rig something up for our cars, take pics. i LOVE spraying my intercooler down with water and alcohol on hot days and feeling all the extra power... untill it dries up... lol
      it's funny how it gets to be like 100 F and ur car gets so slow, but then it starts to rain and she wakes right up. I wonder why Audi didnt make a setup from the factory... it's free power...
      idk if i wanna spray my stock IC or get a FMIC and make a setup for it.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    15. 07-25-2009 08:48 AM #63
      a little ot, but what do you guys think of lucas products, namely the synthetic oil stabilizer?
      Quote Originally Posted by -teknien- View Post
      weighing babies in grams is funny......

    16. 07-25-2009 10:04 AM #64
      Stay away form additives. Spend the money on good oil instead. A good oil already has all the additives it needs and in the right amounts. Here is what the lucas crap does to your oil.
      I don't know how that lucas company even stays in business. Amsoil tested their synthetic 10W30 and it showed over 40% NOACK!!! That means that 40% of the oil by weight would boil off at 150C. That is completely nuts! Most good oils are below 11% NOACK with oils like redline and some Amsoils at 6%.



      Modified by saaber2 at 7:09 AM 7-25-2009

    17. 07-25-2009 01:11 PM #65
      Has anyone used one of these intercooler mister controllers? Looks pretty cool. can spray from one 30 second long spray to 1 spray every 7 seconds. Also sprays above a certain rpm.
      http://www.group5motorsport.co....aspx
      So one of these controllers, a mister, some 1/4 inch hose and a windshield washer tank with integrated pump from a junkyard would do it. i wonder how that controller measures rpm though, that may be a problem.

    18. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-26-2009 07:02 AM #66
      that tester thing showing the lucas foaming up was built by the company to specifically test their oil well and no others. wasnt it on the forums that alot of people knew it was rigged?
      Ive used Lucas synth and honestly, it WAY lowered the amount of oil I burned. I usually go thri half a quart to a full quart every 1-2k miles. With that stuff in there, i didnt burn but 1/4 of a quart by 5k miles.
      on to the sprayer:
      Im thinking of a similar setup to what u described, but insteal of a controller, I want to just use a thermostat or a switch I can turn on and off when I want to cool it all down. I'm sure I could rig up a small coolant bottle off to a side somewhere, run some hose to it, use a generic circular wand, and have the pump only get electricity when I flip a switch in the cabin, or a thermostat senses a certain temp.
      id REALLY like to do a therm, but idk how to.
      would be cool if we could make up a simple kit and help people who want to do this kind of stuff but don't want to spend a ton of money or they don't want to custom make one themselves.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    19. 07-26-2009 09:50 AM #67
      An example of a simple kit might be:
      1) Wiper fluid tank with integrated pump from a saab or other car (from junkyard) - $30?
      2) Pressure switch from ebay (can be set to turn on above a specific boost level) - $30
      3) 1/4 tubing - $3
      4) Wire for pump/switch -$3
      5) Agricultural spray nozzle from any farm and ranch store (higher flow and heavier droplet is better than very fine mist) - $4
      6) Cooler intake air temps for more power and better mpg - priceless
      Or I suppose if you wanted to just test it out you could skip the tank and the pressure switch and just disconnect the rear washer line and run a line from there to the mister. This would use your existing washer tank as the source of water and you would squirt the intercooler the same way you would normally squirt the back window. That would cost almost nothing and be easy to do to test how effective it is. I used to run saab turbo intercooler misters this way (toggle switch control) before I automated them with the pressure switch.


      Modified by saaber2 at 6:57 AM 7-26-2009

    20. 07-28-2009 05:12 PM #68
      i know we're off topic...saaber2, the mini with Xenon lights as two washer fluid tanks. Many folks use this one for IC cooling...very effective on those hot, humid days.

    21. 08-17-2009 01:51 AM #69
      Quote, originally posted by meb58 »
      i know we're off topic...saaber2, the mini with Xenon lights as two washer fluid tanks. Many folks use this one for IC cooling...very effective on those hot, humid days.

      Cool! That would make it easy. Just drove a mini (base) today for the heck of it (a friend has zip car and you can rent a mini for $10/hour with free gas). I love that low, tight mini handling. Have you looked at the clubman, is it much bigger inside?

    22. Member GodSquadMandrake's Avatar
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      01-15-2010 05:24 AM #70
      Hmm interesting. I'm going to try the Redline oil too. I have heard most people recommend the German Castrol or Motul. The Redline is cheaper than the motul and the facts presented here are very compelling. I am a huge believer in their MTL gear oil so that's why I don't hesitate to try their engine oil too. I've been doing Blackstone oil reports at every oil change so it will be interesting to compare the differences and at least I will have some factual data if it is better at preventing wear and shear protection like it says. So far I've been running Mobil 1 European formula 0w40 (alaska cold!).
      "It would take a cross-wired star trek replicator, if not an act of God, to make a left-hand-drive Skyline GT-R for the U.S." - Don Schroeder

    23. 02-01-2019 12:54 AM #71
      Quote Originally Posted by saaber2 View Post
      [http:vwvortex.com]
      Hi there saaber2! I just had a quick question. And I know this thread was made years ago. So I apologize for opening it back up unnecessarily. Anyway, I drive a MK6 GTI with 57k miles on it. It's a daily driver. I drive about 20 miles to work every day in the Pacific Northwest. So pretty mild climate. I'm looking into Redline 5W-40. Would you recommend this for my car? I've been juggling this in my head for the past few weeks

      Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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