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The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

307K views 872 replies 90 participants last post by  Butcher 
#1 ·
If anyone out there is interested, I figure it might be nice to have a place to put all the snippets of info that have been floating around about the 010. I know a few of us really like that box...but we all only have a small piece of the puzzle. I recently bought a nice little factory 010 troubleshooting manual at a swap meet, and there are some interesting bits in it. Here's the link to download a PDF:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/tchaa...e.pdf
It's a pretty secretive topic, the 010, but maybe it's finally time to let the world know what a few of us already do. I'll be updating this with as much info as I can find/have already, in order to further the research. I've got information about changing the shift points, a nice rebuild manual, and pictures of a box torn down. I'll also look in to cross-referencing the various boxes for useful parts that can be swapped...but that might be a big task for one guy.
Cheers all...and if you care, share, please
.
 
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#51 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by B4S »

Unfortunately there are no aftermarket options for final drives
. The 1985-1986 (yep, one year only) 'TJ' box has the longest ratios...but it's really hard to find.


I happen to have a TJ in my Jetta MK2, didnt realize it was rare.
 
#52 ·
Re: FV-QR (nickzom)

They're definitely rare. I scrapped a car with one in it, in a moment of stupidity
.
This is really odd, I was thinking about 010s this morning and this thread pops up. A sign perhaps?
 
#53 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by B4S »
They're definitely rare. I scrapped a car with one in it, in a moment of stupidity
.
This is really odd, I was thinking about 010s this morning and this thread pops up. A sign perhaps?



possibly. I was going to go turbo with a 5 speed swap, but it looks like my trans would probably hold 250 hp?
 
#54 ·
FV-QR

With a 'freshening', it'll easily hold that much. These boxes are the same (more or less) as the ones that were used in the Audi 4000/5000/5000T, and they held up quite well in such heavy cars
.
Slow shifting on a stock box will be your only enemy, although there are options (as mentioned above).
 
#56 ·
Re: FV-QR (Rabbit6)

this was a description of exactly what I just did. I had a problem of VERY hard shifting when the car was cold but after it warmed up, things worked fine. I suspected a dirty valve body and your description of the process was pretty good, although, I'll tell you what, you better watch those f'ning ball bearings!
 
#58 ·
Re: FV-QR (nickzom)

Depends on the track.
I would leave it in 1st. If you find you're bouncing off the rev limiter for more than about 2 seconds between corners, then put it in 2nd. Just leave it there and let the trans do the thinking. Your hands, feet and brain are going to be busy enough without worrying about what gear you're in.
Two-foot it at the start. Full throttle and full brake. Release the brake to launch. That'll speed things up a bit off the start.
Good luck, and please post results on here. I'm taking my turbo G60 010 rabbit to the autocross soon! Can't wait!
 
#61 ·
Re: FV-QR (nickzom)

Pretty short track. Lotsa 1st gear, for sure, maybe a touch of 2nd. I think you'd need some good power to make any real use of 2nd gear here, given the sloppy, slow shifting of a stocker trans (if that's what you're running) I'd stick to the above formula.
 
#74 · (Edited)
I would, but I'm out of the country for and indefinite amount of time. I'm sure the stock valve body could be modified to make it fully manual.



also, anyone that has run a manual valve body, what shifter did you use, and did you still have engine breaking in first and second?
Used the stock shifter.



just saw this thread.My dad and me have a very built 8v drag rabbit wish this trans in it.
We have modified the trans(the valve body and governor mainly).IT has held up to 100+ 7000rpm launches.This a great trans has no problem shifting at 7800.
How are you getting a stall that high and not ruining the converter?
 
#64 · (Edited)
Re: FV-QR (nickzom)

Here's my experimental method of disabling the main accumulator.
1. make a plug. I used an M10x1 pressure plate bolt.

You don't need locktite, or a sealant. It can only go as deep as the threads you cut, and can't back off because of the seperator plate. The one lame thing of this method is that the pressure port you take gauge measurements from is disabled. It's not a big deal, because you have to at least take the tranny pan off, if not the valve body out to make pressure changes. So it's really nothing extra to pull your new accumulator plug out, or simply don't install it until you've achieved your desired line pressure, and won't be measuring anymore.

2. Pull the valve body and locate the accumulator supply passage.


It's an ideal time to clean the valve body as described earlier in this thread.

3. Drill the hole out. 1/2"-3/4" deep will do. I believe 11/32" drill for an M10x1.0 tap. Make absolutely certain all chips are removed from everywhere.


4. Tap. Remove debris.


5. Deburr. Remove debris.


6. Install plug. No threadlock. No sealant, No pipethread plug.


7. Finished result. Make sure it's threaded in below the surface.


8. For now, jam the accumulator piston and spring back in, and reassemble everything, including your freshly cleaned valve body. Re-fill with new ATF according to bentley (3L) and double check the level at operating temp on a level surface. Take her for a drive and enjoy your markedly improved 2-3 shift
 
#66 ·
Re: FV-QR (nickzom)

Gear shifting is performed by 'muscle fluid' being directed from the shift valves to the actuators. To make the shift soft, slow and smooth, some of this muscle fluid is directed into the accumulator while on it's way to the actuator. It is used to push the accumulator piston down against spring pressure.
By eliminating the accumulator, all of the muscle fluid's work is concentrated on the shift, and not wasted pushing accumulators around. This causes the shift to happen quite a bit more rapidly. I don't think this is the be-all end-all answer to a perfect 2-3 shift. I have a feeling that something needs to be done to cause the 2nd gear brake band to release faster as well as speeding up the direct clutch engagement. But this is certainly an improvement over stock.
 
#69 ·
DAMN! I've been missing out!
Thanks for the info on the accumulator mod, if I decide to try out the auto a bit sooner than later, I'm going to give this a try. I wonder if setting the brake band a bit looser would help it disengage quicker? I should be running boost by the end of the week, if I can find a spare oil pan to weld a return on to. I really miss my 010 G60 Mk1 :(.
 
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