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    Thread: Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

    1. n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 11th, 2013
      Location
      Somewhere Near Paris
      Posts
      8
      Vehicles
      '79 Rocco
      06-21-2020 11:46 AM #2076
      Hi there guys,

      Just swapped my 79 Rocco with a 16v 9A bloc, ABF cams and R1 Carbs. Standard electronic ignition that i had already in the car, with a vacuum distributor.
      Jets are 180mm Main, 50 Idle.

      The car started right up, no problems there. But it is really smoking black. Not even exagerating, you can't stay behind the car without suffocating. And when in a Red Light, well..... a nightmare for those how are behind me

      The head was done with new seals and valves, the bottom end is stock, nothing done to it, it has 180k kms (112k miles)


      Since the carbs are putting more gas in, do i need to go with another oil than the one stock for this engine?
      Now i'm running with the 10W40. Searched all of this topic for oil posts, but found nothing clear and precise, to what people have been running with a similar set up.

      Should i try another oil? Do the 16v engines accept 20w50 oil?
      Or i have no choice and do the bottom end, piston rings, etc?
      Last edited by A2J7C; 06-30-2020 at 04:19 PM.

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    3. 06-21-2020 01:39 PM #2077
      Use 10W40 oil, if you use small radiator use maybe 10w60 it will rob power and to thick for daily driving

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 28th, 2006
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      Elizabethtown, PA
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      5,649
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      '82 Rabbit 'vert, '03 BMW 325i Touring
      06-21-2020 06:31 PM #2078
      Quote Originally Posted by A2J7C View Post
      Hi there guys,

      Just swapped my 79 Rocco with a 16v 9A bloc, ABF cams and R1 Carbs. Standard electronic ignition that i had already in the car, with a vacuum distributor.
      Jets are 180mm Main, 50 Idle.

      The car started right up, no problems there. But it is really smoking black. Not even exagerating, you can't stay behind the car without suffocating. And when in a Red Light, well..... a nightmare for those how are behind me

      The head was done with new seals and valves, the bottom end is stock, nothing done to it, it has 180k kms (112k miles)


      Since the carbs are putting more gas in, do i need to go with another oil than the one stock for this engine?
      Now i'm running with the 10W40. Searched all of this topic for oil posts, but found nothing clear and precise, to what people have been running with a similar set up.

      Should i try another oil? Do the 16v engines accept 20w50 oil?
      Or i have no choice and do the bottom end, piston rings, etc?


      pic of the beast

      Black smoke is fuel, not oil. Oil smoke is blue. What is your fuel pressure? If you pull the dipstick does the oil smell like fuel? Float level ob the carbs? Idle bleed screw adjustment?

      Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

    5. Member Jettaboy1884's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 20th, 2004
      Location
      North, NJ
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      7,451
      Vehicles
      '97 A4 12v & '17 Honda Fit Base - 6-speed
      06-22-2020 08:15 AM #2079
      First thing I think of with black smoke is that you're running really rich. The way you describe it makes it almost sound impossibly rich (like it wouldn't even run well) but still...

      Do you have a wideband O2 gauge?

      And do you have a pressure gauge on the fuel feed line to the carbs?

      Do you have your choke hooked up? Perhaps it's on choke and you don't realize it?

      Very nice setup by the way, that looks great.
      Last edited by Jettaboy1884; 06-22-2020 at 08:19 AM.

    6. n00b
      Join Date
      Aug 11th, 2013
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      Somewhere Near Paris
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      '79 Rocco
      06-24-2020 02:51 PM #2080
      Quote Originally Posted by YJSAABMAN View Post
      Black smoke is fuel, not oil. Oil smoke is blue. What is your fuel pressure? If you pull the dipstick does the oil smell like fuel? Float level ob the carbs? Idle bleed screw adjustment?

      Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

      Quote Originally Posted by Jettaboy1884 View Post
      First thing I think of with black smoke is that you're running really rich. The way you describe it makes it almost sound impossibly rich (like it wouldn't even run well) but still...

      Do you have a wideband O2 gauge?

      And do you have a pressure gauge on the fuel feed line to the carbs?

      Do you have your choke hooked up? Perhaps it's on choke and you don't realize it?

      Very nice setup by the way, that looks great.

      Thank's guys for the replys!

      So to try and answer all the questions:

      - The pump is a R1 pump, don't know the fuel pressure
      - I don't have a AFR/o2 sensor or gauge
      - Choke is not hooked up
      - The oil doesn't smell a lot like fuel, but it doesn't smell like only oil... i think that there is a bit of fuel in it
      - Float level for me is the standard, i just made sure that all 4 where the same. i didn't find an exact information about it, if you have some information about the mesurement that it should have when installed on the 16v, it would be really helpfull
      - Idle screw ajustment is at 2 and 1/2 turns


      Today i made this:

      - Changed the ajustment screw to 1 turn only, absolutely no change, engine starts immediatly and stays at 1k rpm.
      - Looked the timing and i have +9/10° degrees of advance.
      - Hooked up my gauges for the syncronization of the carburettors, they are all good
      - Spark plugs are black and somewhat greassy


      The car runs like crazy!! It has tons of power! so she is running right and reving with no problems. But i only made like 10 miles

      I'm waiting for 170 jets that should be arriving soon, but don't even know if that will make a difference

      Enlighten me please!!

    7. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Mar 5th, 2017
      Location
      NORCAL
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      11
      Vehicles
      16v cis 83 gti, 1.8t 94 cabrio, 08 r32, 02 gti 1.8t
      06-30-2020 11:15 PM #2081
      So car runs pretty damn good, but according to my afr gauge its rich io top. Close to 11 still. I've got slightly larger mains, I think 150s iirc. The pilots were changed out for two sizes larger so that itd idle and decel properly. Do i need smaller mains?? I'm really close to swapping a 1.8t in lol.

      Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    8. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Nov 15th, 2012
      Posts
      12
      09-15-2020 03:28 PM #2082
      Quote Originally Posted by A2J7C View Post
      Thank's guys for the replys!

      So to try and answer all the questions:

      - The pump is a R1 pump, don't know the fuel pressure
      - I don't have a AFR/o2 sensor or gauge
      - Choke is not hooked up
      - The oil doesn't smell a lot like fuel, but it doesn't smell like only oil... i think that there is a bit of fuel in it
      - Float level for me is the standard, i just made sure that all 4 where the same. i didn't find an exact information about it, if you have some information about the mesurement that it should have when installed on the 16v, it would be really helpfull
      - Idle screw ajustment is at 2 and 1/2 turns


      Today i made this:

      - Changed the ajustment screw to 1 turn only, absolutely no change, engine starts immediatly and stays at 1k rpm.
      - Looked the timing and i have +9/10° degrees of advance.
      - Hooked up my gauges for the syncronization of the carburettors, they are all good
      - Spark plugs are black and somewhat greassy


      The car runs like crazy!! It has tons of power! so she is running right and reving with no problems. But i only made like 10 miles

      I'm waiting for 170 jets that should be arriving soon, but don't even know if that will make a difference

      Enlighten me please!!

      Sounds logic but, are you using the R1 carb fuel pump (2261YM07501)? not the fuel injection fuel pump (2CR-13907-01-00), carbs use low pressure for work correctly 2-5 psi, injection use a high pressure fuel pump.

    9. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Nov 15th, 2012
      Posts
      12
      09-15-2020 03:42 PM #2083
      Quote Originally Posted by mdelvalle1 View Post
      Sounds logic but, are you using the R1 carb fuel pump (2261YM07501)? not the fuel injection fuel pump (2CR-13907-01-00), carbs use low pressure for work correctly 2-5 psi, injection use a high pressure fuel pump.

      Also see the height in your needles, maybe too high.
      Check the fuel pump works correctly. It should run for a few seconds and stop working when carb deposits are filled with fuel, and then works again and again in a cycle.
      Check the float valve in the carbs,maybe not closing when carbs are totally filled.

    10. Member
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2007
      Posts
      182
      09-16-2020 01:07 AM #2084
      I need some education...

      I bought the car with a 2.0l 16v with R1 carbs. Having some running rich issues after messing with things. I recently replace the jets and almost ready to put the carbs back on the car however the carbs had the throttle switches from the regular throttle body connected to the carbs. One of the wires has came loose from the idle throttle sensor so I was looking to replace with another set of throttle switches I had in the parts bin. I cannot get the switches to line up so the idle switch is pressed in at idle and the WOT switch press when wide open.

      I don't really understand what this system does. Can anyone explain? Also is there a different/better way to do this. Ive included some photo which hopefully show my setup.

      Also, I have seen reference to Air/Fuel gauges. My car does not have one installed. What would be recommended as a setup for this?

      Thanks

      [IMG]IMG_2122-1 by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

      [IMG]119480165_10158488053747209_3169879408630457300_o by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

      [IMG]119330607_10158488052657209_6203220284465186965_o by Photography Dish, on Flickr[/IMG]

    11. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 28th, 2006
      Location
      Elizabethtown, PA
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      5,649
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      '82 Rabbit 'vert, '03 BMW 325i Touring
      09-16-2020 05:47 AM #2085
      IIRC the idle switches and WOT are related to the ignition system and the timing advance under the conditions where they are tripped.

      Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

    12. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Nov 15th, 2012
      Posts
      12
      09-17-2020 03:09 PM #2086
      Quote Originally Posted by dish00 View Post
      i need some education...

      I bought the car with a 2.0l 16v with r1 carbs. Having some running rich issues after messing with things. I recently replace the jets and almost ready to put the carbs back on the car however the carbs had the throttle switches from the regular throttle body connected to the carbs. One of the wires has came loose from the idle throttle sensor so i was looking to replace with another set of throttle switches i had in the parts bin. I cannot get the switches to line up so the idle switch is pressed in at idle and the wot switch press when wide open.

      Simply repair the wire in the switch, you cant line up the switches because they are different ones.

      I don't really understand what this system does. Can anyone explain? Also is there a different/better way to do this. Ive included some photo which hopefully show my setup.

      The wot switch plays a role in the ignition timing, but only when you´re using the ignition control module from the r1, i think you´re not, so this is irrelevant.

      What was the switch connected to?

      Also, i have seen reference to air/fuel gauges. My car does not have one installed. What would be recommended as a setup for this?

      Thanks

      [img]img_2122-1 by photography dish, on flickr[/img]

      [img]119480165_10158488053747209_3169879408630457300_o by photography dish, on flickr[/img]

      [img]119330607_10158488052657209_6203220284465186965_o by photography dish, on flickr[/img]


      simply repair the wire in the switch, you cant line up the switches because they are different ones

      the wot switch plays a role in the ignition timing, but only when you´re using the ignition control module from the r1, i think you´re not, so this is irrelevant.

      What was the switch connected to?

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