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    Thread: How to turbocharge and get 300whp out of your G60 Corrado?

    1. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 11:33 AM #1
      I recently acquired a 90 G60 Corrado and I want to make it a reliable 300whp car. What are the steps that i need to do? I have been through many turbo and few race cars so I have an idea of the regular upgrades needed to turbocharge a car but I know nothing about the Corrados. I was told that the first thing I needed to do was buy a 2.0 8 valve crossflow head to make it easier access to turbocharge the car. Otherwise I know nothing!!!! I was looking on ebay and I found this turbo kit. this is my plan below with steps. Does it make any sense??????

      1. Going to buy an ebay Turbo kit like this below.
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

      2. Through away turbo, couplers and clamps (since I heard those aren't good).

      3. buy a T3 to Dsm flange(TDO5H) adapter plate

      4. Get Evo 3 TDO5H 16G Turbo or TDO5H 20G Turbo with the T Bolt clamps. couplers etc...

      5. HKS SSQV2 or 3 Blow off valve

      6. Tial 38 mm wastegate

      7. Oil cooler, adapter and steel braided lines

      8. Walbro 255lph pump

      9. 650cc Injectors or thereabouts

      10. Aeromotive or SX Fuel Pressure regulator

      11. Management to tune the car

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    3. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      1990 Corrado G60
      05-21-2010 12:15 PM #2
      I just saw these cams

      1. Techtonics 276 Cam

      2. Schrick 276 Cam

      I realize the first one is alot cheaper. Is the second one better and what race cams do you people suggest if not these.

    4. Member G'D60's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 12:36 PM #3
      Yeah you might be able to get 300hp out of an 8V. but you have to ask your self why? it'll take alot of work and tuning. You are better off starting out with a motor with more potential. IE 16V or 20V. I went the 20V route and I plan on putting down more than 300hp.

      I guess it really depends on how much you want to spend. it seems you want to add parts to your existing corrado so I imagine you want to keep the build as cheap as possible. If it were me I'd get a 20V head and read up on the 20V hybird thread a few posts down. You would basically use a 20V head and put it on your G60 bottom end. You woudl need new pistons as the G60 pistions are dished. and you could use your O2A tranny as well which will save you some loot. Then you really have to worry about your turbo (I'd use a garret GT3071 or similar) you would have a way better chance of hitting and surpassing your 300hp goal. Yes i'm pretty sure the xflo 8V CAN do it, but it would be way easier with a 20V. Look for an AEB head while your at it. Its the biggest of the 1.8T 20V Heads. There will be alot more to it so feel free to ask questions. but deffinitly check out the 20Vhybird thread below. it covers EVERYTHING you will ever need.

      Good luck!
      Last edited by G'D60; 05-21-2010 at 12:39 PM.

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    6. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 02:19 PM #4
      300whp is pretty much not gonna happen. Not going to say it's impossible, but it wouldn't be very easy or very cost effective. It's just a port size/head flow problem for that kind of power levels on an 8v. 200-220whp, is good target number for a Turbo 8v. Some guys have made more, but you literally need to incorporate evey trick in the book. Knife edged crank, fully balanced, oversize valves, dry sump, etc. It would be much cheaper to just put forged low compression pistons in a 16v motor, and start with that as your base. Way more outright potential too.

      But a 200-220whp 8v, is a pile of fun! Especially in a light weight car, like a Rabbit or MKII Golf. The torque number is usually very strong, and usually more peak torque then HP. Biggest thing going for an 8v, is they are plentyiful and cheap. Good luck with the build, keep us informed.

      PS. include pics! :p

    7. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 08:21 PM #5
      If you were going to use an ABA head, you should (would have too?) P&P the head and get 1mm oversized valves..... that coupled with a 20G should give you what you want, be great with an ABA block too, than head work wouldn't be needed, but easier to obtain your goals...Autotech 270 is probably the most popular cam ppl are using with ABA heads.

      I would agree that it would be easier starting with a 16v/20v motor, there is actually a lot of options depends on how you want to balance the cost or software etc.
      Last edited by GTijoejoe; 05-21-2010 at 08:27 PM.
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = RIP

      Quote Originally Posted by Ryukein View Post
      Everyone always praises function over form until the form is something that they don't like

    8. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 09:30 AM #6
      Sorry to be such a noob but what does AEB and ABA mean? I know it has to mean a certain engine that most likely has been used in few VW models but I have no clue which one, years etc....

    9. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 06:46 PM #7
      AEB is the 180hp 1.8T (DOHC 20v Turbo)


      ABA is what we call the 2.0 8v's (115 hp) that came in the MK3 and MK4's. (although I think there was actually other engine codes, that's the engine we are talking about)

      -They early ABA OBD1 is the most desirable for turbocharging. It has a forged crank and piston cooling oil squirters. (I think squirters may help with wrist pin life too) Anyway OBDII and later ABA's have a cast crank, and no oil squirters.

      -The biggest benefit besides the extra 203cc of displacement, is the head layout. ABA are crossflow, and PG(G60 engine) and other older 8v's are counter flow. Basically the ABA has the intake ports on one side of the head, and the exhaust ports on the other side, the G60/Older 8v's have them on just the back side of the motor. This makes fitting big turbos a real problem,(which is why GTijoejoe said you would pretty have to use a ABA head to fit that turbo) not to mention the heat soak involved from having the exhaust ports beside the intake ports, and a turbo right under your intake.

      -Luckily ABA heads fit on G60 bottom ends.

      -All older 8v's do however have Forged cranks. Only the G60 has piston oil squirters. The G60 while sharing cranks with the regular 8v's, does have a unique rod ratio. The piston is cast, but has a thicker(stronger) crown height. So it carries it wrist pin lower on the piston, and has shorter rods due to this.

      -As far as head flow goes, I've read it both ways. Some say the ABA out flows the normal 8vhead some say the 8v outflows the ABA. They are pretty damn close either way.

    10. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 10:00 PM #8
      ABA's only came in MK3's... I'm having a brain fart and can't think of the MKIV 8v's.
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = RIP

      Quote Originally Posted by Ryukein View Post
      Everyone always praises function over form until the form is something that they don't like

    11. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 10:21 PM #9
      ABA's are 93-2007. But the intake a few other things ave changed along the way.

      MK4 engine bay


      MK3 (Turbo'd obviously, but you can see how the 2 intakes are different, and the throttle body is on the other side.)

    12. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 09:27 AM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      AEB is the 180hp 1.8T (DOHC 20v Turbo)


      ABA is what we call the 2.0 8v's (115 hp) that came in the MK3 and MK4's. (although I think there was actually other engine codes, that's the engine we are talking about)

      -They early ABA OBD1 is the most desirable for turbocharging. It has a forged crank and piston cooling oil squirters. (I think squirters may help with wrist pin life too) Anyway OBDII and later ABA's have a cast crank, and no oil squirters.

      -The biggest benefit besides the extra 203cc of displacement, is the head layout. ABA are crossflow, and PG(G60 engine) and other older 8v's are counter flow. Basically the ABA has the intake ports on one side of the head, and the exhaust ports on the other side, the G60/Older 8v's have them on just the back side of the motor. This makes fitting big turbos a real problem,(which is why GTijoejoe said you would pretty have to use a ABA head to fit that turbo) not to mention the heat soak involved from having the exhaust ports beside the intake ports, and a turbo right under your intake.

      -Luckily ABA heads fit on G60 bottom ends.

      -All older 8v's do however have Forged cranks. Only the G60 has piston oil squirters. The G60 while sharing cranks with the regular 8v's, does have a unique rod ratio. The piston is cast, but has a thicker(stronger) crown height. So it carries it wrist pin lower on the piston, and has shorter rods due to this.

      -As far as head flow goes, I've read it both ways. Some say the ABA out flows the normal 8vhead some say the 8v outflows the ABA. They are pretty damn close either way.
      Thank you... This has been so helpful. I finally feel like i know a little. Well I have made up mind I am either going to just get a 1.8T 20V complete engine or just get that head and make a 20Vhybrid motor but question what new pistons am I going to need? since I was told I am going to need to change mine since they are dished. Already loving this board...you guys alot better than those Evo boys since I used to be one.
      Last edited by sketzshane; 05-23-2010 at 09:34 AM.

    13. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 09:43 AM #11
      as far as engine management i would got megasquirt it has unlimited potentail and can contorl every thing from boost control to launch control. its not super difficult it just takes some reading and electrical know how. i just got done puting it on my build you can have it installed and runing fairly quick in like a week end as long as you get everything. i thnk total spent was like 800 but i got a wide band at the same time


      http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...6c2b3fedd6637b

    14. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 10:36 AM #12
      i think you could get it with Turbonetics T3 Super60

      digi 1 doesn't come with a MAP sensor so i'd go with digi 2 with a map sensor

    15. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 10:58 AM #13
      Well Digi 1 G60 management has a MAP sensor, it's just built into the ECU, that's why the vacuum line port.

    16. 05-23-2010 11:07 PM #14
      16V t3/t4e @ 15psi will do 300whp - and then some - but will be expensive to build a solid motor to last.

      it's all in the flow and 8v is just not going to cut it.

    17. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-25-2010 10:53 PM #15
      Has anyone recently built a 16V Hybrid or 20V and has documented it with the costs. I just wondering how much it would cost to build from pistons up... i know this might vary because ppl will prefer certain pistons to other like JE vs WISECO vs CP etc... otherwise does anyone sell built up short blocks etc...?

    18. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      05-25-2010 11:24 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      ABA's are 93-2007. But the intake a few other things ave changed along the way.
      Is this a destination thing???
      In the USA 1999.5 in higher years (MKIV) plateforms got an 2.0 8v AEG engine. The blocks are not the same, do you have those engines torn down to the blocks?

      93-1999.5 got ABA 8v engines, both OBD variants.

      THis may help
      http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/resoy3ni...ine_Swaps.html
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = RIP

      Quote Originally Posted by Ryukein View Post
      Everyone always praises function over form until the form is something that they don't like

    19. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      05-26-2010 12:41 AM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by sketzshane View Post
      Has anyone recently built a 16V Hybrid or 20V and has documented it with the costs. I just wondering how much it would cost to build from pistons up... i know this might vary because ppl will prefer certain pistons to other like JE vs WISECO vs CP etc... otherwise does anyone sell built up short blocks etc...?
      i built mine about month ago. im not 100% how much i spent i have all the reciepts havnt added it up cause i dont think i really want to know but heres a ruff throw down

      wisco pistons, about 600$
      scat rods, About 600$
      autech cams 300$
      heavy duty valve springs 150
      machine shop work for block balnced to the .2 gram cleaned uv light tested for cracks 940$
      head work P&P 5angle valve job 300$ish i think dont rember.
      arp everthing head, mains, rods, cam bolts, 400$
      gaskets sets
      timing belt
      waterpump
      spark pulgs
      dizzy
      cap
      rotor
      it all adds up in a hurry

      theres more im not sure i have a box of recipets ill have to look through it
      Last edited by ewillard; 05-26-2010 at 08:34 PM.

    20. Member ewillard's Avatar
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      05-26-2010 12:44 AM #18
      bbm sells short blocks but they dont have good rods or a head

      http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/p...on_Short_Block

    21. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-26-2010 01:19 AM #19
      Yeah I suppose they are different, since those years (AEG) carries the water pump in the block. I guess I never really associate them too different, if it's not a OBD1 ABA, all I'm after is the head (but aren't we all :p )

    22. Member G'D60's Avatar
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      05-26-2010 11:56 AM #20
      HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAAH

      way too funny

    23. 05-27-2010 06:16 AM #21
      300 is pretty weak these days when a ford taurus can have 350 stock. without a chip.

      with full boost at 1500rpm i'd just preserve the integrity of the original G60 motor and have fun rather than try to do something that well isn't that technologically advanced any more.

    24. Member EL DRIFTO's Avatar
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      05-27-2010 11:08 AM #22
      1000+ hp out of 1.1 ltr is old school
      advanced would be shaping the powerband exactly how you want it with the engine that's in the car now
      here's a calculator that says 30 psi would get us 300 hp
      http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbotech.html
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...rged-16v/page6
      36 lbs @ 3.0 PR is in the center of the map


      the threads about 30 psi on the stock aba may be around still, but others already did it with the stock engine already in their jetta & stacked HG

      the main problem being the counterflow head, it flows better than the crossflow stock, but that's irrelevant compared to locating the proper turbo

      i'd stick the aba head on, that would bring up the comp 1 point, use the right turbo, i didn't mention ex ar...
      the rest is no harder than finding the folks doing it stock block
      shouldn't have boost creep @ 30 psi, use an open dump
      digi has a map sensor & a rising rate fuel pres regulator would help make up the difference for boost in excess of...
      then there's getting an obdII chip setup, better than any standalone, since oe has cylinder selective spark knock & learns & is readily available from c2

      i personally like sizing the tubo to max the oe block
      & 020 don't like >270, but 02a....
      & someone managed to crack their aba ring lands na too, whatever that means
      Last edited by EL DRIFTO; 05-27-2010 at 11:10 AM. Reason: spelloing

    25. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      05-27-2010 11:57 AM #23
      Yeeeessshh

      If you want to play the big power game, don't start with a 8v, hell don't even start with a 16v. At very least get yourself into a 1.8T

      If you still want to play the power game with 8v's, nitrous is your friend. :p

    26. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-27-2010 12:21 PM #24
      Right now I think I may just go 1.8T or reduce the amount of power I want. Maybe I should aim at 200whp and just get the crossflow 2.0 8V Head and boost that and have little fun.

      btw anyone knows where I can get door panels/cover for my car new or used but in excellent condition for this color interior or even black if I can't find my color? As a matter of fact I need all links to interior parts to tell the truth since the car needs a little work.

      This is the car below...










    27. Junior Member sketzshane's Avatar
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      05-27-2010 12:33 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      Yeeeessshh

      If you want to play the big power game, don't start with a 8v, hell don't even start with a 16v. At very least get yourself into a 1.8T

      If you still want to play the power game with 8v's, nitrous is your friend. :p
      I got the car with the supercharge already taken off so if you were in my shoes what would you do? I live in Jamaica in the Caribbean and only around 6 of these Corrados came here. Only 3 of these still driving 1 black G60, my own and a Red VR6 SLC. there is no way I am going to buy back a supercharger from the US so what is my best option? I want to have fun with this car and right now it feels rather lame. I dont have a big budget so I was thinking first to just turbocharge the G60 engine and my friend said all I would need is to get a crossflow head and buy the regular things to boost it and then tune etc... Before purchasing this car I was a Evolution owner and I can say that i extracted 3 times the power it was making stock so I really find it hard to believe I cant make 2 times with this engine (since it rated at 158bhp @ 5600 rpm and 166 lb-ft @ 4000 rpm on the supercharger)

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