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    Thread: Catch Can, Vac Lines, Res / N249 Delete + MORE!

    1. Member DMVDUB's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 09:39 AM #1
      Not an instructional thread but one that may interest those who are planning to remove their N249, SAI, PCV, Vac Res. and install a Catch Can.

      This week I started by ripping out all the many redundancies that are in the 1.8t's design. ((NOTE) If you remove redundancies such as the one that goes to the brake booster make sure you inspect these vacuum lines regularly))

      I also turned my throttle body so that the butterfly opens toward the front of the manifold. Not only does this look better, but many people claim you get a more even flow to all 4 cylinders. I cannot say this is true or not, but I do notice a much smoother acceleration after rotating the TB.

      I removed almost every redundancy I could find. there are still a few I need to work out. ( there is a great DIY for removing the N249, SAI etc. ) Most people, me included do this to make their engine bay cleaner, it also makes it easier to find a problem if you have a leak. (ie. direct line to brake booster, you slam into a wall you know your vac line to the booster is gone ). Another plus of doing this besides the ridiculous amount of tubing, check valves and crappy plastic tubes that snap if you look at them wrong, is that you will have several direct vacuum ports to use for your Diverter or BOV, Boost Gauge, Boost Controller or any other component that needs a Vacuum line.
      Having a direct vacuum line for the diverter valve makes the response alot quicker and depending on how you are running, if you spike higher than your car likes you will normally hear the diverter open and pssshhttt Boost GONE! Well, with the N249 removed or bypassed this wont happen again. ( this wont by any means prevent limp mode it will just keep the ecu from opening the diverter when it gets scared ). By changing the boost gauge in my car from a tee in the fuel regulator to a direct route on my manifold I have noticed better response to boost levels and a more accurate reading. ( the change is nominal, I noticed a difference you may not ).
      For the fun part, at least I think so. The catch can install, there is another DIY for a catch can installation that is great, easy to understand and illustrated.

      For my catch can I refused to buy a $100-$300 aluminum container to hold engine gunk. Therefore I decided to make my own. I ended up using an empty bottle of seafoam ( it's thin metal ) some heater hose a breather filter, steel wool and a couple brass fittings. Cost me nothing as I already had the pieces, but this is what they did cost ( used seafoam to find manifold / turbo leak $10 , Brass barbs $3 , Breather filter $8 , hose clamps $5, heater hose $8 ) I'm not going to describe how to make one or install, as there are many DIY's already explaining how to make and install a catch can. Point is it's easy, there are many things thou can use if you want a certain shape or size, etc. It cost me around $30 if I had to buy the parts, and if you buy something like seafoam you can use it in the car, duh, and recycle the can to your project.
      If you don't understand the point in removing the PCV system for a catch can remove your intercooler and check out what's inside, ( Hint, it's OIL and usually between a shot glass full and a cup full ) Obviously we don't want those things going through our intake system and gumming up the IC pipes, IC, Throttle Body, Intake Air Temp sensor (IAT), MAP sensor and possibly reaching your injectors, valves etc. The other problem with this system is the "Hockey Puck" on the turbo inlet this is the PCV vent valve, this is where all of these contaminates enter your intake system. You notice this is before the compressor. It may just be me but I don't even want oil vapor hitting the fins if the turbo and turning to varnish. It's just extra weight on the fins which "could" haven't seen it but theoretically it's possible that they could get out of balance and cause excessive vibrations,etc.
      When removing the PCV system I found that almost every hard pipe was cracked or broken. The PCV was venting on my transmission. I'm sure if you check yours you will find some that have failed or are close to failing. One of the most common being the Y pipe from the valve cover vent needs replacing all the time.

      Summary of all that I have explained is that if you are so mechanically inclined it takes some time but it's easy to remove the redundant vac lines. Having direct Vac lines looks cleaner and makes problems easier to diagnose. By removing the PCV system and replacing with a catch can you get gid of A LOT of pipe and you keep your intake clean, not to mention engine bay if one of these pipes should break, and they will. Having a direct line to your DV makes it more responsive and the ecu cant open it on command. Finally, by turning the throttle body so that the butterfly opens toward the front of the car it not only cleans up the bay but seems to smooth out the acceleration. All in all I would say I am very happy with the new setup and I'm sure you will be too if you do the same.


      I will have some pics of the aftermath and results soon.
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    3. Member
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      11-28-2010 10:30 AM #2
      There is so many N249/PCV/SAI threads out there and one of the biggest questions is "why would you do this". This thread explains that pretty well and should be included in the DIY. Not a bad write up, and that quote about the TB rotation increasing power... Sounds to me like one of those "stationary supercharger" myths where you install a plate that "creates a vortex" and increases power, I don't think this has any impact whatsoever in fuel injected vehicles because the air entering the intake is a product of the intake manifold and runner design, not to mention the air isn't introduced to fuel until just prior to the combustion chambers so that air has changed it's initial path two times anyways, those plates just add restrictions and everything felt is "in your own head".

      Now on a carburated vehicle, this is a different story because the air and fuel is mixed at the throttle plates so the spinning air does actually mix more thoroughly with the fuel as it is sprayed by the primary/secondary fuel injectors... Just my .02 cents on that matter.

      But good stuff, I just modified my PCV system on my 02 GTI, removed the redundant vacuum line to the booster, added a catch can and modified the N249/combination valve to give direct manifold vacuum to my Greddy BOV, definitely seems smoother and upon doing all that I did find two or three cracked lines, including one on the throttle body hose that goes to the evap system. I plan on modifying the N249 system a little more while keeping the N112/SAI/EVAP in place, in accordance with this thread..

      http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/265883/...7.aspx#1744207

      I found that highly useful in understanding the various systems and keeping a clean look while modding the 1.8T N249. One difference I have seen as to many of the diagrams posted of AWP motors is that my AWP had a seperate vacuum source to the alternate booster line, where as most T off of the PCV system, see picture. I thought this was interesting and made me wonder why it was like that and if there was variations of AWP engines.



      Last edited by chaveezy; 11-28-2010 at 10:35 AM.

    4. Member DMVDUB's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 11:11 AM #3
      Thanks, You're right I figured there are so many DIY's why not a WT-DIY or Why To Do It Yourself. I figure you're right about the tb it looks better turned though, it does make sense that it would fill the plenum more evenly especially for those running a water methanol system, but hey who knows and without a clear manifold and a smoke machine to visually see the difference in the path, who knows?? It does seem smoother, but it could be psychosomatic.

      The thread you attached is the one I was thinking of. It makes it real easy for people who don't really know what they're doing. The blue vac lines make the visual easier to understand. There are alot of people who want to work on their own cars and don't know what a Throttle Body does , Why there are Vacuum lines or what a PCV system does. ( for example I'm sure there will be several people who don't know that PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Vent ).

      I'm gonna post all the random shtuff that I've ripped out, not only does it do what has been stated it also decreases weight. Every gram leads to an ounce, every ounce leads to a pound and every 100 pounds leads to a tenth of a second off your quarter mile. ( roughly ).

      If you want to go fast and you can't afford big hp parts you can just strip weight, many people think you need the most power to get the best times. It's not true of course a car wit 1000hp is faster than a car with 200hp. But if you take the 1000hp car and its weight at 3600lbs (muscle car)
      and it runs a 9.xx second quarter mile people don't seem to realize that the 200hp car can run an 11.xx second quarter mile if the weight is low enough, around 1500lbs. ( this was proven in import tuner or modified mag they used an Altima completely stock and stripped it completely down until the hit a 10 second quarter and the hp was around 130 ).
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    6. Member
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      11-28-2010 10:53 PM #4
      That's for sure, however, then you lose a lot of the luxury that is why we love VW in the first place. Personaly, I love factory A/C, Heat, lighting, full interior, air bags, sound deadening material, etc, but again, that's just me.. I do want an 11 second car though, I'm working on it, just need some rods and then a different tune for my setup as right now I'm running a Mika Tune 630 MAF file, pretty sure I'm losing a lot of HP with that setup.

      My concentration right now is on making what I have run right though, as since I've been going through the VAC system I've found multiple leaks and obsurd redundancies that just scream problems, I'm still chasing a slight rough idle and I'm not sure it has to do completely with the vacuum sources, it may be the Mika Tune itself and having a problem adapting the throttle at idle, it will be running fine then fall on it's face (16:1-18:1 AFR) then find it's happy medium again at 14:1-15:1 and idle great around 820 RPM, never stalls though.

      I have tried unplugging the MAF and it doesn't seem to make a difference.. Another thing is that I've been wondering if this Mika Tune calls for a 4 bar FPR, which I have installed, but since Mika has been out of service for over 2 years now, NOBODY I've found has any information on them, so I'm just going to tune with a Unitronic Stage 3 in January I think. We'll see how it goes..

      I'm also running a Greddy BOV right now and I've been wanting to go back to a Forge 007 DV, but in looking at the system and trying to understand it more and more, I don't see why it would be a good thing to re-pressurize the TIP, because following the path of least resistance, some of that boost pressure might find its way right back into my catch can and then into the valve cover.... Makes me really think that VAG's PRV (hockey puck) is necessary if you're running a DV.. I'm going to make a new post and see if someone has the answer for me but it's just me pondering the mechanics of the system (ONCE AGAIN)...

      Good deal, cheers!

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    9. 09-12-2019 12:41 AM #7
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