I run something like this on my studs that are fitted into the exhaust manifold
they dont back out ever
Thanks for the suggestions guys. From what you are saying I think I should have studs instead of bolts holding the turbo to manifold
Will do this-> get studs and lock nuts from ecs (double nuts), lock washers, drill the studs and run the wire thru them
WE will se who rules on that engine bay me or this mofo turbo backing out
Up for some updates
Car now has been running for a year and going strong
Since the turbo conversion I had to replace a few parts that started to reallly show its high mileage with the extra power including rear brakes, the whole lower front suspension wich was also stiffened with poly bushings, all three motor/trans mount also coverted to poly and also lowered on fk coilovers
Now running at 14psi this thing really moves
I made a couple videos with my crapy cell phone, shacky as hell and no audio but it gives an idea
I can't blame you, motorcycles are so much fun
I was reading thru the thread and saw that some info is missing from what I've done last spring.
I got rid of the edis ignition and the 32-1 wheel on the crank, now I'm using the stock 60-2 and sharing the sensor with the stock ecu. Modified the megasquirt so now it also controls ignition
I flipped the turbo/manifold so my downpipe now is on the drivers side, this way my charge pipe coming from the compressor dont get heated up from the exhaust, it goes straight from the compressor outlet down to the smic thru a 2.5" mandrel bent piping eliminating the pancake pipe
Also got a dynamax glasspack muffler in place of the stock cat while I was at it modifying the downpipe to the other side
Bumping it up for some updates
Had a little problem when a half-moon cam gear key fell one day when I was messing with it and ended up landing on the bottom of the t-belt cover, since I couldnt find it at time I just replaced with a spare one and kept rolling, a week later was stopped at a traffic light and the little sob finally met the t-belt stripped all its teeth and bent all my valves
Then I decided to go ahead and refresh the motor a bit since it was all open
Forged rods on stock pistons, new rings and new rod bearings
Photo0527 by yo mama, on Flickr
Photo0522 by yo mama, on Flickr
While it was under the knife I decided it was time for the stock 1.8t intercooler to go and went a little bigger
Photo0579 by yo mama, on Flickr
Photo0580 by yo mama, on Flickr
The other side of the piping is routed behind the battery and inside the hollowed stock air box and from there to the t-body, looks like a stock engine bay from the top, I will get some pics of the engine bay and post here.
Next step is a low miles aba obd1 head with double springs
Edit to add a pic of the car
Photo0477 by yo mama, on Flickr
Last edited by groundupjetta; 09-13-2012 at 10:45 PM.
I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I'm deeply curious -- what were some of the biggest hurdles you ran into along the way? I'm in the process of assembling parts for my own 8v turbo build, using a BEV (to get things off the ground and build my AEG in the mean time) with a (free) Thunderbird Turbo Coupe IHI turbo, 440cc injectors (also Ford) and planning to go with the United Motorsport software. VR6 MAF housing, FMIC, AEM wideband, and 2.5" exhaust. The plan here is 5-7psi on the stock motor, hope it stays together, and begin (immediately) on tearing down the AEG to start on having it steam cleaned and checked for cracks/damage, forged internals, ARP headstuds and a gasket matched head.
How awful was physically fitting the turbo, in terms of firewall clearance and whatnot? Any general useful advice going into it?