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    Thread: DarkSideGTI Big Turbo Build Round 2

    1. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      Bagged R32T, 2015 S3, 2001 4Runner
      02-04-2011 04:17 PM #1
      DarksideGTI Big Turbo Build Thread






      Exterior:
      Shaved OEM front bumper
      Bora R fog bumper grilles
      Shaved hood
      Rolled fenders
      Bonrath 2 bar grille painted black
      Black painted roof
      Shaved Hatch
      Jom euro tails
      25 AE style painted headlights

      Interior:
      Defi boost gauge
      42DD A-pillar pod
      Kenwood DDX371 DVD Headunit
      Odyssey PC925MJT battery relocated behind drivers seat

      Engine:
      Custom turbo kit
      PTE6162 ball bearing turbo
      Pag Parts exhaust manifold
      TiAL 38mm WG
      TiAL 50mm BOV
      Integrated Engineering 3" downpipe
      EIP 3" exhaust
      Integrated Engineering 3" charge piping
      C2 FMIC
      Sleepers Performance SRI
      630cc fuel injectors
      Bosch 044 fuel pump
      UM Big Turbo software
      Integrated Engineering Tuscan connecting rods
      JE 8.5:1 pistons
      ARP head studs
      Wire tuck
      Moroso coolant filler neck
      Moroso coolant overflow can
      braided fuel and coolant lines
      Integrated Engineering oil catch can
      VF Engineering motor mounts
      BFI dogbone inserts
      Southbend stage 3 clutch
      Shaved engine bay

      Suspension:
      Bagyard Bomber front air struts
      Universal Air AHII rear bags
      Bilstein Sport rear shocks
      Accuair Switchspeed air management
      5 Gallon tank
      (2) Viair 400c compressors
      Neuspeed 28mm rear sway bar

      Wheels/Tires:
      CCW LM20
      18x9 et24 front
      18x10 et18 rear
      Bronze faces
      Bronze lips
      Falken 912 215/40/18 front
      Falken 512 225/40/18 rear
      5mm spacers in the rear










      I figured I should start another build thread since I am rebuilding my car.

      A few months ago I started noticing a bit of smoke coming out of my car under boost. I figured it was a bit of oil burning off from a leaky VC gasket that I had just replaced. I went to the track and my car felt like it was breaking up a bit under full boost I figured it was plugs so I short shifted my way to a 12.9. I replaced my plugs and went to the track again, the car did a bit better but was still breaking up and I short shifted my way to a 12.5. Well after that day I decided to investigate what was causing the smoke. Turns out cyl 5 had a broken piston.



      The cylinder walls looked fine, so I de-glazed them with a ball hone and replaced the piston using one I got from Gabe at Bluewater. I also replaced the rings and rod bolts. The car ran fine for a few days, but I never got into boost. About 5 days later I started hearing a bit of noise from the car and it sounded like rod knock. I was a bit burned out on working on the car so I parked it and let it sit for a couple months.

      A couple weeks ago I finally got a bug up my @ss to work on the car again so I pulled the motor and tore it apart. I found that the rod bearings on cylinder 5 were completely gone. I must have installed the rod cap 180* out and it caused the bearings to wear out. Hoping to save the crank I took it to a local machine shop where it is currently being ground to accept .25mm oversized rod bearings.

      Here is the scoring on the #5 rod journal.


      I also took the block down to the machine shop to receive a .5mm overbore, fresh hone, and a good hot tanking. The new block will be fitted with some JE 84.5mm pistons and the brand new Integrated Engineering Tuscan rods for the VR6. I believe there are only two of us with these new connecting rods, but the 1.8T versions have been pushed to ~800 whp. imagine the potential with two extra rods.







      I figured while the motor was out I would get rid of some stuff in the engine bay and do a wire tuck as well. I am not sure how crazy I am going to get with shaving stuff, but I would like to redo all the seam sealer and re-spray the bay as well.

      Labeled wires.


      Motor out.


      Empty bay.


      Cleaned up passenger side.( the easy one).


      Drivers side.


      getting there.


      organized confusion.


      the other plans I have are:

      United Motorsports Big Turbo software
      Powdercoat all charge pipes, inlet, valve cover, etc.
      New -6 braided fuel line
      -10 braided catch can valve cover vent
      deleted aux radiator
      deleted coolant reservoir
      relocate PS reservoir
      powdercoat VF mounts
      powdercoat fuel rail
      new coolant hoses ran cleaner
      low temp t-stat
      low temp fan switch
      shaved front bumper
      fix cracked rear bumper
      new wheels
      coat brake calipers

      I'm sure I'll end up doing more as well. Hope to have everything done before Wuste 2011 in June.
      Last edited by DarkSideGTI; 05-25-2014 at 02:55 PM.

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    3. Member MPSquared's Avatar
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      02-04-2011 04:28 PM #2
      Wow! Looks amazing! Im excited to see times when this thing is done. What are you wire tuck plans?

    4. Member huichox4's Avatar
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      02-04-2011 04:48 PM #3


      nice

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    6. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-04-2011 04:57 PM #4
      Tuscan connecting rods! When did these come out?

      I have the "regular" connecting rods and really liked their quality and engineering. They came balanced, but I sent the whole rotating assembly out to be balanced.




    7. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      Bagged R32T, 2015 S3, 2001 4Runner
      02-04-2011 05:21 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by MPSquared View Post
      Wow! Looks amazing! Im excited to see times when this thing is done. What are you wire tuck plans?
      Going to route all the wires down through the frame rails. Actually going to be able to delete a lot of stuff.

      Quote Originally Posted by JamesO View Post
      Tuscan connecting rods! When did these come out?
      They aren't officially out yet.

    8. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      Bagged R32T, 2015 S3, 2001 4Runner
      02-04-2011 07:09 PM #6
      Just ordered a catch can setup with -10AN fittings and lines. Damn that was not cheap.

    9. 02-04-2011 07:22 PM #7
      I'm sorry you are having so many issues with that motor. You have put a lot of time and money into this car so far. It sounds like you are on track to really make it bulletproof once and for all. I am pretty excited to see the end product. I still need to get around to doing my turbo build... but The more and more I dig into it, I hear about weird issues like this. So I keep wanting to do it right, and as I go down that path... the price just keeps going higher and higher with it... so I never pull the trigger.

      Have you thought about running the new TT CAMs with this new motor? I think they are 275s... or 277s... I don't recall.

      Good luck Nick. If anybody can do it, it's you.


    10. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      Bagged R32T, 2015 S3, 2001 4Runner
      02-04-2011 11:05 PM #8
      Bad news from the machine shop tonight. The crank needs to be ground more than .010" that means in order to use those bearings I would need to weld the crank and then grind it. That kinda sketches me out. Anyone know of a fairly cheap crank for sale?

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      02-05-2011 01:17 PM #9
      I have 2 cranks out right now that both are being welded and then ground down to accept .25mm undersized bearings. It should be fine if the machine shop is used to that kind of thing. I have had it done multiple times without issue.

    12. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-05-2011 02:30 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by xbluewaterx View Post
      I have 2 cranks out right now that both are being welded and then ground down to accept .25mm undersized bearings. It should be fine if the machine shop is used to that kind of thing. I have had it done multiple times without issue.
      I was faced with a similar issue when I went to rebuild my .:R. But I wasn't so sure about welding and grinding on the crank. I realize that it is an acceptable repair, but I don't like the idea of a forged crank with welds on it. Maybe that's just me, but I can be overly meticulous.
      When you say you have utilized this repair, what was the application? Was it just a stock rebuild or repair, or was it something that went into a higher HP VW? Would you run it in your .:R, or are we talking about yours?

    13. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      Bagged R32T, 2015 S3, 2001 4Runner
      02-06-2011 01:32 PM #11
      People weld/grind forged cranks all the time. If I could find a crank cheap enough I would try to avoid it though.

    14. Member Basil Fawlty's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 02:01 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkSideGTI View Post
      People weld/grind forged cranks all the time. If I could find a crank cheap enough I would try to avoid it though.

      Subscribed ...why not balance and blueprint the crank it while you're at it?

    15. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 02:59 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Basil Fawlty View Post
      Subscribed ...why not balance and blueprint the crank it while you're at it?
      I think your head is in the right place but your using terminology that doesn't really make sense. When you weld onto the crank and then grind the excess off you HAVE to balance it. That is actually how they decide where to grind the excess material off. They throw it on a balancer and strategically grind off certain areas to get the crank in balance. So it will already be balanced if they repair it.

      Secondly, my pet peeve is when people mis use the word "blueprint." All that means is you have a plan for the engine and you follow it. Which actually means that a stock motor is blueprinted! VW had a "blueprint" and they followed it when they manufactured the engine. So when you are rebuilding your engine I would hope that you have some sort of plan or "blueprint" in mind for the application and requirements BEFORE you start slapping parts on. If you do, then your engine is already blueprinted. But if you don't, well then your just wasting your money b/c it won't last.

      In a nutshell...
      If it's going to be a Turbo application for racing then you will use a set of specifications for a turbo engine. If your running a Nitrous only car then you will go with different set of specs. If your going for a monster NA engine then, you guessed it, you go with a different set of specs.

      I'm not trying to bash on ANYBODY, just want to merely educate others to some common misconceptions.

      Basil Fawlty, I do agree with you that he should blueprint the engine. Also, send your WHOLE rotating assembly to be balanced together for a proper and quality build. This means your crank, pistons, connecting rods, flywheel.
      Last edited by JamesO; 02-06-2011 at 03:01 PM.

    16. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 03:04 PM #14
      Blueprinting is taking the entire motor apart and measuring everything and verifying all of your clearances/specs. This will happen, once I get the block back I am measuring everything before assembly.

    17. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 05:15 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkSideGTI View Post
      Blueprinting is taking the entire motor apart and measuring everything and verifying all of your clearances/specs. This will happen, once I get the block back I am measuring everything before assembly.
      You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

      For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

      I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
      And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!

    18. Member eastcoaststeeze's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 05:38 PM #16
      im excited to see this finished.. again haha
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    19. Member newcreation's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 05:39 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by JamesO View Post
      You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

      For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

      I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
      And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!

      James you are correct with your info. Hopefully others read and learn a few things from your info posted may not be alot but a short general idea for them
      -JAMES CRIST JR-
      DRIVEN/Built /UM Turbo R

    20. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 08:11 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by JamesO View Post
      You have part of that right. It's all about adjusting those measurements to meat certain application requirements.

      For example, if your running forced induction you will adjust your ring end gap to one spec. Then if your running NA you will adjust your end gaps to another spec.

      I used the specs provided by JE for a Turbo application because I have JE Pistons. Some people may have different numbers but there is no question that you must vary tolerances based of application.
      And THAT is what it means to Blueprint an engine!
      Right, when I said measuring clearances that includes adjusting ring gaps. I will be using a bore gauge, micrometer, etc to make sure the main/rod journals have the appropriate clearances, adjusting ring gaps, clocking the rings, etc.

      Today I sorted through more of the wiring and re-routed some stuff. I need to go get a hole saw and a rubber grommet so I can route some wires down through the bottom of the rain tray.

    21. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 08:21 PM #19
      It sounds like you have the right idea! :: The rebuild process is an exciting time, I remember it well. I have yet to make a build thread, but I took a TON of pictures! Hopefully you will grace us with the same. 

    22. Banned euro.lo's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 11:35 AM #20
      Wow! Another quality build thread coming out. Looking forward to seeing this thing running again.

    23. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 12:54 PM #21
      ** Boring Update **

      After talking with Pete @ IE a bit, he is recommending that I use a new crank instead of welding this one. I have a WTB thread but if I cannot find an R32 crank with a reasonable price I will get a 2.8l crank. This will shorten the stroke and I will need to run 2.8 pistons, but I would get 85mm pistons. This would give me a 3.1l instead of a 3.2l, which I am not concerned with at all. I would rather get the 3.2l crank, but they are often a lot of money and spending the extra ~200 or so on custom pistons would be cheaper.

      Anyway, here are some pics of my recent order from Summit.

      I am deleting the ugly VW coolant bottle and using this inline filler neck. I will route the overflow to the Moroso recovery tank. I found an anodized black billet radiator cap that looks better than the ugly silver ones.



      I also am revamping the fuel lines in the bay. And adding a catch can. I got some 5/16" to 1/4" NPT push to connect fittings for the hard lines. The PTC fittings are converted to -6 AN fittings and I am running black braided line with Mr. Gasket Shadow Series fittings. The R32 fuel rail will have -6 bungs welded on to finish the connection. I got a -10 bung as well that will be welded onto the valve cover breather port with some black braided line to the catch can as well. It should all look pretty slick once the IC pipes and VC are powdercoated to match the Mr. gasket fittings.



      This is the catch can I ordered that is not here yet.


      The DEI titanium exhaust wrap is a pretty close color to the titanium Mr. Gasket fittings.

      I also got a Fusor bumper repair kit and some spare plastic and I will be shaving the bumper lights and grille notch.

      The color of those Mr. Gasket fittings looks off in my pics. This is a better representation of the colors. Everything will be powdercoated to match.

      Last edited by DarkSideGTI; 02-10-2011 at 04:48 PM.

    24. Member JamesO's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 02:50 PM #22
      I really like where your headed with this last update! Hardly a boring one IMO, but I find joy in the little things.

      I am in the midst of my catch can integration right now. Trying to find a place to put the catch can has been the hardest part so far. I'm being somewhat picky as where it goes and how it looks in relation to OEM.

      Im anxious to see how your coolant setup looks once you integrate it. Are you painting the coolant tank?

      Also, where are you going to locate your catch can? Also, it looks like your venting your crankcase to atmosphere. Any particular reason why your going with this style as opposed to recirculating?

    25. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 03:25 PM #23
      Wow man. I cant say i see alot of detailed Motor builds. i really like the way this is paning out.
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    26. Junior Member Andy Redz's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 04:00 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by BOUDAH View Post
      Wow man. I cant say i see alot of detailed Motor builds. i really like the way this is paning out.
      Totally agree this threads getting interesting the devils in the detail.
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    27. Member DarkSideGTI's Avatar
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      02-10-2011 04:22 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by JamesO View Post
      I really like where your headed with this last update! Hardly a boring one IMO, but I find joy in the little things.

      I am in the midst of my catch can integration right now. Trying to find a place to put the catch can has been the hardest part so far. I'm being somewhat picky as where it goes and how it looks in relation to OEM.

      Im anxious to see how your coolant setup looks once you integrate it. Are you painting the coolant tank?

      Also, where are you going to locate your catch can? Also, it looks like your venting your crankcase to atmosphere. Any particular reason why your going with this style as opposed to recirculating?
      I am thinking about either polishing the tank or powdercoating it. Haven't decided yet.

      I am going to mount my catch can on the rad support by the passenger headlight. Kinda like crazy02gti's that you can see here.



      Quote Originally Posted by BOUDAH View Post
      Wow man. I cant say i see alot of detailed Motor builds. i really like the way this is paning out.
      Thanks.
      Quote Originally Posted by Andy Redz View Post
      Totally agree this threads getting interesting the devils in the detail.
      The details are spendy though, that 180* -10 AN fitting is $30 alone.

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