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    Thread: Let's talk TT suspension

    1. Junior Member
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      09-25-2014 12:16 PM #251
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Good plans, the PSS are great daily colilover. With the Defcons spacers, both rubber or poly will work fine and be a great improvement. Poly bushings does provide extra firmness but that might not be worth it for the use you have for the car, my car if it was only a DD, would probably be on Defcons with rubber bushings.
      Thanks for the feedback. What would you recommend for all other suspension bushings? Which would you do poly and which OEM? I want to refresh it all over the winter.

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    3. Member Tiero's Avatar
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      09-25-2014 03:16 PM #252
      Quote Originally Posted by hemicuda1313 View Post
      Thanks for the feedback. What would you recommend for all other suspension bushings? Which would you do poly and which OEM? I want to refresh it all over the winter.
      The only ones worth making poly are the front control arm bushings. You don't want the rears to be poly because they should be free to let the arms move up and down effortlessly. Poly bushings will reduce side to side and up and down movement because they aren't flexible. Also, you risk them ovaling over time and performing much worse.

      The rest are really a judgement call. I did top mounts and sway bar bushings in poly but I may go back to oem for the top mounts. I'm getting a strange clunk that I can't seem locate despite having no play and all new parts.
      Quote Originally Posted by acuraudi View Post
      Bo Jackson was a blatant ripoff of Reggie Jackson. I don't understand why Bo Jackson's parents made Bo Jackson when Reggie Jackson was obviously already a classic design.

    4. Junior Member
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      09-26-2014 03:04 PM #253
      Ok. Looking at online retailers and have some questions. Here is the plan and a few more detailed questions for the experts:

      Bilstein PSS Coilovers - Where to purchase? I seem to find them to be much more than $1000 mentioned a few times in the thread. Is there a place that does quarterly sales?
      R32 Rear Swaybar - possibly modified
      DEFCON 1 or Track - Recommendations requested?
      MCPi MadMax Control Arms
      Front Bushings - OEM or Poly?
      Front Wishbone Front
      Front Wishbone Rear
      Front AntiRoll Bar
      Dogbone Mount
      Steering Rack Mount
      Rear Bushings - OEM or Poly?
      Rear Wishbone Front
      Rear Control Arm
      Rear AntiRoll Bar


      What else am I missing? Should I look at any camber correction?

    5. 09-26-2014 10:02 PM #254
      Quote Originally Posted by hemicuda1313 View Post
      What else am I missing? Should I look at any camber correction?
      Tie rod ends
      Swaybar droplinks
      Subframe bushes (depending on what you want the car "to be")

    6. Member max13b2's Avatar
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      09-27-2014 10:16 AM #255
      As far as the PSSs, wait for AWE to run a sale. They are a forum sponsor and frequently run sales. I did just that and got set for around $1050 shipped. I'll elaborate more on my Max inspired setup later, but I have asked all the same Qs as you to him and have gotten great, informative answers.

      Edit: just checked and they are running them on sale NOW for $1050
      Last edited by max13b2; 09-27-2014 at 10:20 AM.
      Quote Originally Posted by 85744437
      I need that aftermarket exhaust bruh bruh. How much goez it??

    7. Member
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      09-30-2014 12:19 PM #256
      Quote Originally Posted by Tiero View Post
      I'm getting a strange clunk that I can't seem locate despite having no play and all new parts.
      What top mounts in poly did you go with? I'm having the same issue.

    8. Member Tiero's Avatar
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      10-08-2014 10:58 AM #257
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      What top mounts in poly did you go with? I'm having the same issue.
      Powerflex but, I had the clunk before i replaced the top mounts.
      Quote Originally Posted by acuraudi View Post
      Bo Jackson was a blatant ripoff of Reggie Jackson. I don't understand why Bo Jackson's parents made Bo Jackson when Reggie Jackson was obviously already a classic design.

    9. 01-03-2015 01:16 PM #258
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      I took some measurements for you to figure out the rear damper vs wheel ratio. Each inch of wheel travel is equivalent to 0.8" of damper travel in both directions.

      -Compression (starting at static ride height)

      1st inch of wheel travel = 0.8" of damper travel
      2nd inch of wheel travel = 0.8" of damper travel

      -Rebound (also starting from ride height)

      1st inch of wheel travel = 0.8" of damper travel
      2nd inch of wheel travel = 0.79" of damper travel

      (*I think that the second inch of wheel travel in rebound, basically at full droop, there is some slight bushing resistance and that's why I got 0.79" of damper travel which is negligible IMO and was rounded to 0.8")

      -Other data collected (this purely for my setup)

      Effective range of wheel travel 4"
      Effective range of damper travel 3.2"
      Total range of wheel travel 5"
      Total range of damper travel 4"





      Full range of shock travel from full droop to sitting on my chopped bump stops. For those who care, it's only 3.9" (10 cm) total, which is less than 2" total of compression travel at my current height. I can only imagine what's going on with more lowered cars on softer springs (basically how the majority on this board runs)













      Crude marking on the damper after each inch of wheel travel (Rebound and compression starting from my static ride height). Each inch of wheel travel is equivalent to about 0.8" of damper travel in both direction and that's what the marking illustrated.













      This pic shows what I did to get a fixed point near the center of the hub that can be measured at a 90* angle (necessary since the rear hub is so inboard of the wheel arch). You can also spot on the left the small amount of total damper travel available overall (compression and rebound).












      Random pic showing full bump/compression and the frame resting on the chopped bump stop. If you're lowered a lot, especially on soft spring rate (anything lower than 900 lbs is soft IMO - I run 1300 lbs on my car), chances are you're riding on the bump stop and the effective rate is a gazillion lbs (not good).












      Pic below shows how wheel travel was measured from static ride height







      ^^^ Related to this post, I made this video because I'm taking my shocks out to be refreshed and revalved, therefore I needed to have some visual insight of the dynamic rear wheel behavior to guide my valving decisions (the front is pretty much figured out).


      It might not be much to the general population because my spring rates are so high, but it gives an idea how much movement is still present even in moderate street driving with 1,300 lbs springs. If you're running low in the rear and/or have some soft springs, just know that you're likely riding the bumpstops in many dynamic situations (laterally loaded suspension and hitting a bump on the surface for example).


      https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=aPqXC4NmNNs
      http://www.ftdmotorsports.com
      Home of the track-proven Madmax Suspension products, Madmax DV kit, and AEM products.

    10. Member TheDeckMan's Avatar
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      01-03-2015 04:23 PM #259
      Your right Max, that is a lot of travel under normal driving conditions looks close to 12mm to 15mm or so.
      -Noah
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    11. Member 225TTed's Avatar
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      01-03-2015 08:09 PM #260
      Makes me not feel warm and fuzzy about running stock height with the R32 suspension... even when I drop HD's in there, it's still going to completely collaspe.

    12. Member andrew1984's Avatar
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      01-04-2015 12:26 PM #261
      how much were you able to trim rear bump stop?
      Andrew Cordeiro www.makehasteracing.com Follow me on Twitter @MakeHasteRacing & Instagram @MakeHasteRacing
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    13. 01-04-2015 01:15 PM #262
      I just chopped them in half (maybe a bit more past halfway) -- You'll be able to get about an inch of additional travel. Sorry I didn't put more thought into it and took measurements, it's one of these thing where every little bit helps and you have to leave some cushion against bottoming out... so about halfway instinctively feels right.
      http://www.ftdmotorsports.com
      Home of the track-proven Madmax Suspension products, Madmax DV kit, and AEM products.

    14. Member 225TTed's Avatar
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      01-04-2015 04:28 PM #263
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      I just chopped them in half (maybe a bit more past halfway) -- You'll be able to get about an inch of additional travel. Sorry I didn't put more thought into it and took measurements, it's one of these thing where every little bit helps and you have to leave some cushion against bottoming out... so about halfway instinctively feels right.
      Would you recommend trimming the bumpstops with a Bilstien/R32 spring setup? I know we need basically all the travel we can get, and it's limited by the rear suspension.

    15. 01-05-2015 12:50 AM #264
      Yes, trim the bumpstops. The rear ones are OEM and conservative. Any setup will welcome and benefit from some extra travel before sitting on the stops (the front is dependent on what comes with the front strut used).
      http://www.ftdmotorsports.com
      Home of the track-proven Madmax Suspension products, Madmax DV kit, and AEM products.

    16. Member 225TTed's Avatar
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      01-05-2015 02:35 AM #265
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus_Aurelius View Post
      Yes, trim the bumpstops. The rear ones are OEM and conservative. Any setup will welcome and benefit from some extra travel before sitting on the stops (the front is dependent on what comes with the front strut used).
      My dude! Much appreciated! I'm confident with the HD's, new bushings everywhere, and a cat welded in where the oem one was, this may be a decent setup for the daily commute and track time.

    17. 04-27-2016 08:08 PM #266
      Hi ive been reading and found most people use koni, bilstein, h&r
      My question is which is the best for performance, lightest, and under 1500 usd. For mk1 tt quattro
      I dont care about the ride quality but my roads do have the pothole disease
      Im thinking my options are
      Koni 1150 series adjustable
      Bilstein pss fixed
      H&r street performanc ss
      Or am i missing one?
      Thanks


      Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk

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      04-27-2016 10:06 PM #267
      Quote Originally Posted by nitroTT View Post
      Hi ive been reading and found most people use koni, bilstein, h&r
      My question is which is the best for performance, lightest, and under 1500 usd. For mk1 tt quattro
      I dont care about the ride quality but my roads do have the pothole disease
      Im thinking my options are
      Koni 1150 series adjustable
      Bilstein pss fixed
      H&r street performanc ss
      Or am i missing one?
      Thanks


      Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk
      I run Koni FSDs with Eibach springs. They're comfortable, but handle very well. If you're not tracking the car I would look at these closely, especially with the rough roads.
      2002 TT 225 Roadster
      My build thread

    19. 04-27-2016 10:22 PM #268
      I do plan on taking the car to the track and would rather have it set up more for that

      Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk

    20. Member
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      04-29-2016 01:57 PM #269
      This winter I did the Bilstein coilovers and could not be happier. They are not adjustable. They are aluminum and way lighter than the stock struts. The ride is only a tad stiffer and the rebound is fantastic, I live near Detroit where I am regularly airborne on terrible roads. I did all poly bushings in every control arm and trailing arm, I used the offset bushings from ECS in the rear so I can set rear camber and it gave me plenty of adjustment as I am not "slammed". Played with some alignment settings and car is track ready balanced with the rear coming out just before the front end lets loose, essentially tail hangs out about 10-15 degrees in a full power slide on a turn. I paid $1067 from ECS but I think it was just a set they had on the shelf, they matched the price for me that CARID was willing to give me plus I spent a couple grand all together on other things with them.

    21. Junior Member
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      05-02-2016 06:57 PM #270
      Quote Originally Posted by bwdz View Post
      This winter I did the Bilstein coilovers and could not be happier. They are not adjustable. They are aluminum and way lighter than the stock struts. The ride is only a tad stiffer and the rebound is fantastic, I live near Detroit where I am regularly airborne on terrible roads. I did all poly bushings in every control arm and trailing arm, I used the offset bushings from ECS in the rear so I can set rear camber and it gave me plenty of adjustment as I am not "slammed". Played with some alignment settings and car is track ready balanced with the rear coming out just before the front end lets loose, essentially tail hangs out about 10-15 degrees in a full power slide on a turn. I paid $1067 from ECS but I think it was just a set they had on the shelf, they matched the price for me that CARID was willing to give me plus I spent a couple grand all together on other things with them.
      Willing to post up your shopping list? Would love to have that as a reference for when it's my turn.

    22. Member
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      05-02-2016 07:43 PM #271
      Well, I did the steering rack and tie rods last year so those stayed put. I did the balljoints (Lamforder, don't go cheapies on those or they won't last) Powerflex bushings in the front control arms, the ECS dog bone mount with poly (hint, don't use their bolts, they seemed cheap and my factory ones looked great so I reused them) Powerflex trailing arm bushings, Powerflex rear control arm bushings and the offset ones on one set to be able to adjust camber (I am only 1.5 inches lower in the back so it had plenty of adjustment without going to adj control arms). I used rubber in the sway bars as they sent me wrong size poly so I just didn't feel like going back in there, my front sway bar was way bigger than the bushings they set it measures around 21mm. I also used the ECS coilover install kit with hardware, wish I went with different strut mount bushings as I hear they won't last but so far so good. Front is dropped 1.25".

    23. 01-18-2017 05:10 PM #272
      Here is link to making the rear stiffer (for less understeer)

      http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewt...g+rear+swaybar

    24. 12-03-2019 02:22 PM #273
      Amazing information.

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