If you're reading this, you know what it is, but if you don't:
I got mine from Peter (http://www.thescirocco.com/peloquin.html)
The kit comes complete and is fairly easy to install, this DIY will also help you replace your output flange seals if they're leaking (the kit includes new seals).
I installed the kit on my '88 Scirocco 16v with a 9A. I autocross the car often and competitively, and thought the kit would be a good addition to my car. It isn't a true limited slip differential, but for the cash outlay (less than $100), it seemed like a good investment. Once the season starts I can give my impressions.
First off, a bit of safety advice. I've been reading posts lately where people have gotten almost hurt, very hurt, or very dead while working under a car that wasn't properly supported.
NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR THAT IS SUPPORTED BY A JACK ALONE, AND NEVER, EVER WORK UNDER CAR USING THE FACTORY JACK. They're called widowmakers for a reason. Get yourself a good set of jack stands and a set of wheel chocks.
For the passenger side, you can get the inner CV off and up out of the way without messing with anything else, the axle is long enough. The drivers side is much shorter, so you'll have do some extra work. My ball joints have been replaced (with bolt-in units), if yours are the same, you're in luck. Remove the 3 ball joint bolts, and swing the bottom of the strut out. It's only about a quarter of an inch (if that), and you'll gain sufficient clearance to drop the inner CV down and out of the way. You shouldn't need to touch the axle nuts, or realign your car when you're done. If you have riveted ball joints, you'll need to do some work to get the axle out (which may include removing the strut), which might require an alignment.
To get the inner CVs off the drive axles, you'll need an 8mm triple square tool. Don't try and use an 8mm hex, you'll destroy the heads and need ViceGrips to get the bolts out (ask me how I know, long story from long ago). Drivers side, you can use a long extension and get to them from outside the car, working in the wheelwell, the passenger side, you can get to them under the car. There are 6 bolts and 3 load-spreading 'washers' on each side. The passenger side axle will swing up and needs to be supported (tie wire, bungee), the drivers side can hang down along the side of the lower control arm.
For access, I also removed the lower K brace and passenger side CV heat shield.
Once the axles are off, the install procedure is the same on both sides of the car.
I hijacked the writeup from Peter's webpage (with permission), I'll supplement it with my pictures and notes.
Follow these directions for installing the 40% and 80% kit, the 80% kits has an extra step at the end.
These kits should be installed in transmissions that are in good working condition. The kit is not designed to correct an existing problem, except for leaking CV flange seals. The kit comes with 2 CV flange seals and the spring compressor tool, that is needed to re-install the CV flanges, if you have leaking CV flange seals, this is the ideal time to do this upgrade. Repair any deficiencies before installing the kit, Before beginning it is recommended that the repair manual be consulted for transmission configuration and parts familiarization.
1. Support the car in a secure position with the front wheels removed.
2. Disconnect both left and right CV's from transaxle using 8mm 12 point socket. It is possible to install the kit with only the inner CV removed. To increase access, the axle assembly can be removed entirely by removing the outer axle nut. Before placing the car on jack stand, loosen the outer axle nut. Once the car is supported. Remove the 3 bolts securing the ball joint and the entire axle assembly can be removed. Alignment should be checked later as the ball joint removal may change camber settings. Or disconnect the ball joint, then there’s no alignment needed.
3. Remove excess grease from the drive flange and remove the rubber cap (seal) with a screwdriver.
4. Install the lOmm stud from the flange tool into the differential shaft. (Examine threads prior to threading bolt to verify condition of the threads. If necessary. clean with tap) Slip the clamp over the stud and install the nut. Tighten to keep pressure applied to the flange. The flange is under pressure from the spring and could come off with force if not properly removed.
5. Remove the snap ring and discard (new ring supplied).
6. Remove the flange tool. Save the concave washer if the 40% kit is being installed. It is not used on the 80% kit.
7. The flange has a spring and spring seat. Clean and set these aside.
8. The factory brass ring is now visible. it is one piece but most likely broken Into two pieces Remove it from the shaft. It is not reused. (It may be easier to remove with the seal In step 9 removed.)
9. Remove the flange seal being careful not to damage the seal retaining surface.
Old and new seals:
10. Install the new lock ring with 45" surface toward differential. (the flange spring seat may aid in installation). With lock seated, place the thrust washer over the shaft. It can be held in place with a thin layer of assembly lube or grease.
Old and new brass rings:
Thrust washer in place:
11. Install new seal. Place a thin film of grease on the O.D. and the l.D.. Tap in using a flat round plate. With seal In place, verify that the thrust washer is still in place.
12. Install flange with spring seat on spring. Use the tool supplied to seat flange fully on to the splined shaft. Install the concave washer (pressure side out) on the 40% kit only. Install the new snap ring on both the 40 and 80% kits.
This photo shows how the stack of parts will be installed, bottom up: flange, flange spring, spring seat, thrust washer, brass ring.
80% installers: STOP HERE and see below.
13. Remove flange tool and install rubber cap seal.
14. Install CV's and torque to 33 ft./lbs.
****** 80% kit ******
1. Complete all steps as in above through #11. Do not install concave washer, install snap ring only and remove tool.
2. Install O-ring on cap. Clean threads in differential shaft and place small amount of red Loctite on threads of differential shaft (bolt has Loctite applied). Install cap assembly and torque 33-35 ft/lbs. (Cap can be held by placing 28mm bolts in flange and securing from rotation by using a pry bar, or screwdriver across the bolts.) Install the CV's as usual.
I used blue Loctite on my CV bolts, my car seems some pretty punishing driving (especially autocrossing), it's not uncommon for my to have loose CV bolts. Not a happy thought.
Caps and O rings:
These are the parts you should be left over with (either parts removed and replaced from your car, or extra parts from the kit (40% guys):
2 old flange caps/seals
2 old flange seals
2 old brass rings
2 old concave washers
2 old snap rings
2 new caps/seals (40% guys)
For some reason, my kit had 4 caps, since I did the 80% kit, I didn't use any of them.
Thanks to Peter at for supplying the parts and directions, I'm looking forward to seeing how it does, once I get some decent test drives in.